All Things Iceland

I have some really exciting news to share with you today!

If you’ve been following All Things Iceland for a while, you know how much I love helping people plan their trips to Iceland. Whether that’s through my podcast, YouTube videos, blog posts, or answering your questions on social media, it’s something I’m genuinely passionate about.

But I’ve also wanted to create a space where we could take that interaction a step further.

A place where you could ask me questions directly, get help with your itinerary, discover places you might not have considered, and connect with other people who are just as excited about Iceland as you are.

And I’m happy to say that I’ve finally created it!

It’s called the All Things Iceland Travel Club, and it’s officially open!

The Travel Club is an online community for people who are planning their first trip to Iceland, returning for another adventure, or simply love learning about this beautiful country.

And one thing I really want to emphasize is that this isn’t just another place where you get a bunch of information and then you’re left to figure everything out on your own.

I’m actually in the club every day.

I’m answering questions, sharing recommendations, posting about places I’ve visited, and interacting with members.

Some of the posts are about popular places in Iceland, but I’m also sharing some of those lesser-known spots that might not make it onto a typical itinerary.

And I’m going beyond just saying, “Hey, you should visit this place.”

I’m sharing my personal experiences, what makes these places special, things you should know before visiting, and whether I think they’re worth including in your trip.

And members can ask follow-up questions, share their own experiences, and have conversations with each other.

That’s a huge part of why I created this. I want it to feel like an actual community.

Now, here’s something that has me especially excited. I only created this club about a week ago, and people have already started joining!

And one of our new members has already submitted his 15-day Iceland itinerary for January.

He’s coming to Iceland with his wife, and I’m currently going through their plans and putting together my feedback. And let me tell you, there are some interesting things to discuss!

In fact, I’ve already been chatting with him inside the community because I had a few questions about his itinerary. One of the things I noticed was a particularly long drive planned for the day they arrive in Iceland.

And because they’re coming in January, there are a few things I want them to consider, including daylight hours, winter road conditions, and how tired they might be after an overnight flight.

But here’s something that’s really important to me.

It’s your trip, not mine.

My job isn’t to tell someone that they absolutely have to do things my way.

It’s to use my experience traveling around Iceland, driving these routes, and understanding the seasons to help them make informed decisions.

So sometimes I’ll ask questions before making recommendations.

For example, are your accommodations flexible? Would you consider staying somewhere else? Is this particular stop a must-see for you?

That way, the feedback is actually helpful for the person and their travel preferences.

And what’s really cool is that some of these conversations happen in the community where other members can see them and learn from them, too.

And speaking of this itinerary, I have another exciting announcement!

This member has given me permission to feature his itinerary in an upcoming podcast episode and YouTube video.

I’ll only be sharing his first name, and I’ll keep his personal information confidential.

But I’ll be walking through the overall trip, highlighting some of the things I really like about his plans, and discussing a few areas where I think adjustments could make the experience even better.

So if you’re planning a winter trip to Iceland, especially if you’re considering a longer itinerary, this is definitely an episode you’ll want to check out.

Even if you’re not visiting in January, I think you’ll learn some really useful things about how to structure an Iceland itinerary.

And this is something I plan to continue doing because there’s so much we can learn from real travelers’ itineraries.

Now, the community and itinerary help are just part of what’s included.

When you join, you’ll also have access to my Iceland Itinerary Blueprint, which walks you through the process of putting together an Iceland itinerary that actually makes sense for your trip.

I’ll also be adding my Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland (coming soon), which is my in-depth video course covering practically everything you need to know to prepare for your visit.

You’ll have access to my Ultimate Iceland Packing Checklist, travel discount codes, and other planning resources.

And we’re also going to have a live monthly Q&A, where you can bring your Iceland travel questions directly to me. So whether you’re wondering about renting a car, which region to visit, how to plan around limited daylight, or what activities are worth booking, you’ll have a place to ask.

And the club is absolutely for both first-time and returning visitors. We already have people inside who’ve been to Iceland several times, along with people preparing for their very first trip.

I love that mix because there’s so much value in having different perspectives and experiences in one place.

Now, because this is a brand-new community, I wanted to do something special for the people who join early.

The first 50 founding members will receive a guaranteed personal itinerary review from me, included with their membership.

And I want to explain what that means because I don’t want anyone thinking they need to have their entire trip figured out before joining.

You absolutely do not.

Maybe you already have a detailed 10-day itinerary, and you want me to look it over to see if the driving distances make sense, whether you’re trying to squeeze in too much, or if there’s something worth changing.

Great! I can help with that.

But maybe you’re at the very beginning.

You know you’re coming to Iceland for seven days, you’ve heard about the South Coast and the Golden Circle, and you’re trying to figure out what else you can realistically fit in.

That’s okay, too!

You can share what you’re thinking about, and I can help you start shaping those ideas into a plan.

The point is to meet you wherever you are in the planning process.

Now, I am limiting this guaranteed review to the first 50 members because these reviews take time, and I want to make sure I can give each person thoughtful, personalized feedback.

Once those 50 spots are filled, I’ll still be featuring itinerary reviews in the community, but they’ll be selected rather than guaranteed for every new member.

And one more thing: you don’t have to be traveling anytime soon to take advantage of this.

If you’re planning a trip for next summer, next winter, or even further into the future, you can still join and start planning.

The other special thing about joining now is the founding member price.

Right now, the All Things Iceland Travel Club is $19 per month.

That gives you access to the community, the planning resources, the monthly live Q&A, and all the things I’ve been talking about.

But this introductory price is only available until November 7th.

After that, the membership price increases to $39 per month.

So if you’ve been looking for a way to get more personalized help planning your Iceland trip, I really encourage you to check it out while the founding member offer is available.

I’m really excited about what we’re building.

I want this to be a place where you feel more confident about your Iceland trip, where you discover things you might never have found on your own, and where you can connect with other travelers who share your excitement.

And, of course, I want it to be fun!

So whether you’re visiting Iceland for the first time or you’re coming back for your fifth adventure, I’d love to welcome you into the All Things Iceland Travel Club.

Remember, the founding member rate is $19 per month until November 7th, and the first 50 members receive that guaranteed itinerary review.

You’ll find the link in the show notes.

And keep an eye out for that upcoming 15-day January itinerary review episode because I think it’s going to be a really interesting one!

Thanks so much for listening, and I hope to see you inside the Travel Club!

Apparently, we are maxxing everything these days. There’s sleep-maxxing, looks-maxxing, money-maxxing… so naturally, I’ve decided we need to talk about Iceland-maxxing. And yes, I know that sounds ridiculous, but stick with me because there’s actually a useful idea behind this.

If you’re traveling to Iceland, you’re probably spending a significant amount of money to get here. You might be using a week or two of precious vacation time. Maybe this is a trip you’ve been dreaming about for years. So how do you get the most value out of the time, money, and energy you’re spending to be here?

When I say Iceland-maxxing, I absolutely do not mean cramming as many attractions as humanly possible into your itinerary. In fact, I think that’s one of the fastest ways to make your trip worse.

After living in Iceland for almost ten years and helping people plan trips here for years, I think a great Iceland itinerary comes down to something much simpler: everything on your itinerary should earn its place.

This is actually a big part of why I created my Iceland Itinerary Blueprint. I kept seeing people with dozens of amazing places saved for Iceland, but they didn’t necessarily know how to turn all of those places into a trip that made sense geographically or fit the amount of time they actually had.

The Blueprint walks you through the process I use to think about your priorities, driving time, where things are located, and how to put everything together into an itinerary that works for your trip.

I’ll tell you a little more about it later on in this blog.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu4lDscI_oE

Here’s something I don’t think enough people consider when planning Iceland: even a free attraction has a cost.

Let’s say you’ve found an incredible waterfall. There’s no entrance fee, so technically it’s free. Except… is it?

Maybe it’s 45 minutes away from the route you were already planning to drive. That’s 45 minutes to get there and potentially another 45 minutes to get back to where you would have been. Then you spend 30 or 45 minutes at the waterfall. Suddenly, your “free” waterfall has cost you more than two hours of your day.

And that’s before we’ve even talked about fuel or your energy.

This is why I don’t just ask, “Is this place worth visiting?” There are hundreds of places in Iceland that are worth visiting. The better question is, “Is this place worth what it costs this particular day?”

That’s a completely different question.

If you’re already driving right past it, fantastic. If visiting it requires a huge detour from three other things you care about more, maybe it doesn’t belong on that particular day.

This is also where backtracking comes into play. Sometimes I’ll look at someone’s itinerary and they’re driving east, then west, then east again because they’ve planned individual attractions instead of planning a route.

You’re paying for that mistake with your time.

And in life, time is one of the most valuable things you have.

The second thing I want you to do is stop treating everything on your itinerary as equally important, because it isn’t.

Ask yourself, “If I could only do one thing today, which thing would I be genuinely disappointed to miss?”

That’s your anchor.

Maybe you’ve wanted to hike on a glacier for ten years. Maybe your dream is soaking in the Blue Lagoon. Maybe you desperately want to see puffins. Maybe there’s a particular restaurant you’ve been dying to visit. Maybe you’re a photographer and there’s one location you specifically came to Iceland to photograph.

Whatever it is, put that thing on the itinerary first. Then build around it.

What I don’t want is for the thing you care about most to become something you’re rushing through because you scheduled six other attractions that day.

Your anchors will also be different from somebody else’s, and that’s important.

I can give you my perfect five-day Iceland itinerary. Someone else on YouTube can give you theirs. You can download 17 itineraries from Pinterest.

But none of us know what your anchor is.

That’s why I think starting with your priorities is so much more useful than starting with somebody else’s itinerary.

Here’s where I’m potentially going to offend Iceland lovers: there is such a thing as too many waterfalls.

I KNOW.

Coming from someone who lives in Iceland, that feels almost illegal to say.  But hear me out.

Let’s say your Tuesday looks like this: waterfall, waterfall, waterfall, lunch, waterfall, waterfall. By waterfall number five, you may have reached what I am officially calling waterfall diminishing returns. It’s not that the fifth waterfall isn’t spectacular. It’s that you have limited time.

Maybe instead of waterfall number five, you could visit a geothermal area. Maybe you could have an incredible Icelandic food experience, go horseback riding, visit a museum and learn something about Icelandic history, soak in a geothermal pool, or simply sit somewhere beautiful for an hour without worrying about getting to your next pin on Google Maps.

When I’m thinking about an itinerary, I want to experience diversity.

I don’t necessarily want to maximize the number of attractions. I want to maximize the number of different ways you experience Iceland.

That’s a subtle distinction, but I think it can make a huge difference in how a trip actually feels.

And to be clear, this doesn’t mean you should only visit one waterfall during your entire trip. Iceland has some incredible waterfalls that look completely different from one another. It’s about asking whether every stop is bringing something worthwhile to that particular day.

There’s one more thing that doesn’t fit neatly into those three questions: you have to leave some breathing room.

Because Iceland is going to Iceland.

The weather changes. Road conditions change. You see something from the road that looks incredible. You meet somebody who tells you about something you hadn’t considered. You find a café you love. You stop to photograph horses. Or you’re standing somewhere beautiful and realize, I don’t want to leave yet.

A completely optimized itinerary with zero flexibility isn’t actually optimized.

It’s fragile.

If one thing goes wrong, the entire day collapses.

So leave some space.

Sometimes the best part of an Iceland trip is the thing you didn’t know to put on the itinerary. And I think this is where the whole idea of Iceland-maxxing becomes a little ironic. Sometimes the best way to maximize your trip is actually to do less.

Give yourself time to stand at the waterfall. Sit by the ocean. Have lunch without staring at the clock. Pull over somewhere safely because the landscape is incredible.

If you’re reading to all of this and thinking, Okay, Jewells, this makes sense. But I have 30 places saved for Iceland and I have absolutely no idea how to turn them into an actual itinerary, that’s exactly why I created my Iceland Itinerary Blueprint.

I don’t give you my perfect Iceland itinerary because my perfect trip might not be your perfect trip.

Instead, I walk you through the process of figuring out your priorities, looking realistically at driving time, grouping places geographically, deciding where it makes sense to stay, and turning everything into an itinerary that actually works for your trip.

Because you don’t need me to hand you my perfect Iceland itinerary.

You need to know how to build yours.

You can find the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint here through the link in the episode description.

And there you have it. We have officially Iceland-maxxed.

I still can’t believe I’m saying that. 😂

The next time you’re deciding whether to add another pin to your itinerary, remember those three questions: What’s the real cost? What’s my anchor? And what is this actually adding to my trip?

If you can answer those, I think you’re already on your way to building a much better Iceland itinerary.

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If you are planning a trip to Iceland in summer 2027, this is your sign to start now. Yesterday would have been better, but today is the option we have.

That does not mean you should panic and book the first hotel, rental car or tour you find. In fact, booking without first understanding your route can create a completely different problem. The goal is to start planning early enough to keep your choices while making each decision in the right order.

I talk with Iceland travelers almost every day through private consultations, emails, social media and the monthly Q and A for my Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland. Over the years, I have watched the summer planning window move earlier. I used to remind people in January to start planning for the upcoming summer. Now, for many travelers, especially those with fixed dates or specific accommodation needs, planning six to twelve months ahead makes much more sense.

https://youtu.be/ntJLY4Q7cs0

Summer is popular for good reason. The landscape is vibrant and green, the Highlands become accessible, puffins return, hiking opportunities expand and the midnight sun gives you extraordinarily long sightseeing days. You should not avoid summer simply because demand is high. You should plan strategically so you can experience it without paying more than necessary or settling for a trip that does not fit you.

As June, July and August get closer, prices generally rise, availability shrinks and many of the best-value options disappear. Occasionally, someone cancels and a room becomes available at the last minute, but that does not mean it will return at its original price. A hotel or vacation rental may reopen the dates at a much higher rate because demand is already strong.

Planning early is not only about saving money. Even if you have a generous budget, it gives you more control over the trip. Outside Reykjavík, towns such as Vík, Höfn, Mývatn and Akureyri have fewer accommodations than many travelers expect. Iceland continues to add hotels, but the countryside still has limited inventory, including a surprisingly small number of luxury properties. The best-located and best-reviewed options can fill up regardless of price.

This matters even more if you need a family room, several rooms for a group, an accessible space, a kitchen, separate beds, a private bathroom or a particular price range. The more specific your needs are, the earlier you should begin.

One of the most common mistakes I see is booking flights and thinking the difficult part is finished. A few months before the trip, the traveler begins searching for accommodations and discovers that the affordable, highly rated places are gone. What remains may be far from the planned route, poorly reviewed, too small for the group or simply nothing like the experience they imagined.

If you are driving the Ring Road, South Coast, Golden Circle or Snæfellsnes Peninsula, your overnight location affects the entire next day. You do not just need a room somewhere in Iceland. You need the right room in the right area on the right night.

Imagine that you intended to continue east but the only available accommodation requires you to backtrack. That detour adds driving time, fuel costs and fatigue. It changes when you reach the next attraction, how much time you have to explore and where you can stop to eat. A room that looked cheaper may not be a better value once the whole route is considered.

Booking early gives you a better chance of choosing an overnight stay that supports your itinerary instead of forcing the itinerary to bend around whatever was left.

Early planning is important, but randomly reserving attractive hotels around the country is not a strategy. You can lock yourself into places that do not make sense for the number of days you have or the experiences you care about most.

Before booking, answer these questions:

If you have more than three days and plan to drive yourself, spending at least one or two nights in the countryside can help you experience more without repeatedly returning to Reykjavík. Staying in the city is not wrong, but it may be inefficient if your priorities are farther along the South Coast or in another region.

Your pace matters just as much as the map. Someone who loves slow mornings, long hikes and hundreds of photos should not copy the itinerary of a traveler who enjoys leaving before sunrise and moving quickly. Online itineraries are useful for inspiration, but they were built around someone else’s energy, interests and priorities. A good Iceland itinerary should feel like your trip.

This workshop walks you step-by-step through how to turn all those places you’ve saved into an itinerary that actually makes sense. Follow along as I build a real 5-day Iceland itinerary and learn how to plan your route, choose where to stay overnight, avoid unnecessary backtracking, and decide how much to fit into each day.

Google Maps is an excellent planning tool, but its driving time is not the length of your sightseeing day. For example, the classic Golden Circle includes Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss waterfall and the Geysir geothermal area. The basic drive from Reykjavík and back may appear to take roughly four hours, but you are not coming to Iceland simply to remain in the car.

You need time to explore each location, eat, use the bathroom, walk from parking areas and wait for other members of your group. Icelandic weather can slow you down, and spontaneous stops are part of the experience. You may see horses, a waterfall, a viewpoint or a landscape that makes you want to pull over safely and take it in.

When every day is calculated using only the minimum driving time, you either rush through the places you traveled so far to see or fall behind and spend the rest of the trip trying to catch up. The goal is not to squeeze the maximum number of pins into each day. It is to create a trip that feels good while you are living it.

This is often the point where trip planning begins to feel like a second job. You have saved waterfalls, restaurants, hot springs and beautiful hotels, but you are unsure how to connect them without backtracking or spending most of the vacation in the car.

That is exactly why I created the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint. In this 69-minute on-demand workshop, I walk you through the same planning framework I have used while helping hundreds of travelers in private consultations. You will learn how to choose the right regions, create sensible driving days, decide where to stay overnight and avoid trying to fit too much into each day.

I also build a realistic five-day summer itinerary during the workshop and explain the thinking behind every decision. The point is not to copy that exact route. It is to understand the process so you can apply it to a three-day trip, ten-day trip, two-week trip or any other length. You also receive a guided planning worksheet, a printable five-day itinerary planner and lifetime access, so you can return whenever your plans change.

If you want to turn all your saved Iceland ideas into a realistic route, get instant access to the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint. It is designed to help you plan independently while giving you a clear framework to follow.

If you will stay on the Ring Road and other regular roads during summer, a two-wheel-drive car is sufficient for most travelers. You do not automatically need a four-wheel-drive vehicle simply because Iceland has dramatic landscapes. Many of the rough-road images people see online were filmed in the Highlands or on mountain roads.

If you plan to drive on F-roads or enter the Highlands, you need an approved four-wheel-drive vehicle and the right insurance for your route. This is another reason to understand your itinerary before reserving a car. If you have not decided whether the Highlands are part of the trip, first settle the route so you do not have to cancel and rebook.

Rental cars generally do not require the same twelve-month lead time as the most sought-after countryside accommodations, but booking earlier gives you more vehicle choices. Smaller affordable cars, automatics, camper vans and popular four-wheel-drive models can become limited during summer.

Before reserving, read my Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland for vehicle, insurance and road guidance.

When you are ready to book, you can save 7 percent with Go Car Rental Iceland or Go Campers. Go Car rentals also include free 4G Wi-Fi through my link, while Go Campers includes a free sleeping bag.

Many flights from the United States leave in the evening and arrive in Iceland early the following morning. Although it is described as an overnight flight, a five- or six-hour journey is not enough time for most people to get meaningful sleep. Even if you land at six, seven or eight in the morning, you may feel reasonably alert at first and become exhausted by midday.

I do not recommend collecting a rental car and beginning a long road trip while sleep-deprived. Drowsy driving is dangerous. Consider making your arrival day deliberately lighter: explore Reykjavík, visit a local swimming pool or lagoon, take a walking tour, eat a good meal and stay awake until a sensible bedtime. After a full night in a bed, you can begin the road trip rested and energized.

Your arrival day counts as a travel day, not necessarily a full sightseeing day. Being honest about that from the beginning will make the rest of your itinerary more realistic.

You do not need to decide every restaurant or roadside stop immediately. Focus first on the decisions that shape the rest of the trip. This is the order I recommend.

After these foundations are secure, you can gradually add flexible sightseeing stops, restaurants and smaller activities. For example, if your glacier hike begins at 11:00 on the South Coast, you can plan a waterfall that morning and continue toward Reynisfjara or Vík afterward. The important reservation becomes the anchor around which the rest of the day is built.

Fall, winter and spring usually do not carry the same broad high-season pressure, although Christmas, New Year’s and other popular dates can still require early booking. The same planning principles apply in every season.

Outside summer, your route may require even more care because daylight is limited and weather can affect your plans. December and January have very few daylight hours. Late fall, winter and early spring also require more flexibility, realistic driving times and enough space to adjust when conditions change.

The framework inside the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint works throughout the year. The sample itinerary is for summer, but you can apply the decision-making process to your season, priorities, pace and available daylight.

If you want to visit Iceland in June, July or August 2027, start planning now. Do not panic-book random hotels. Decide what kind of trip you want, identify the regions that fit your available time, create a realistic route and then secure the reservations that matter most.

Starting early gives you something more valuable than a lower price: it gives you choices. You have a better chance of finding accommodations that suit your group, a vehicle that fits your route and experiences at times that work with the rest of your itinerary.

Ready to build the trip? Start the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint and follow my step-by-step process for turning your screenshots, saved posts and ideas into an Iceland itinerary that works in real life.

You can also explore all of my Iceland trip-planning resources, including my map, packing checklist, consultations and discount bundle.

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One of the questions people often have about living in Iceland is how the healthcare system actually works, especially when it comes to having a baby. As an American who has lived in Iceland for 10 years, I was very aware when I became pregnant for the first time in 2025 that having a baby in the United States can potentially cost thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars depending on your health insurance.

My experience with maternity care in Iceland was very different.

https://youtu.be/lib5G9vAFIA

From prenatal appointments and ultrasounds to an unexpected breech pregnancy, labor, an emergency C-section, two nights in the hospital, and postpartum care at home, I received an incredible amount of medical care and support.

When I added up the things I actually paid for throughout this entire journey, the total came to just a little over $1,600 USD.

And importantly, a decent portion of that total came from things I chose to pay for rather than essential medical care that I was required to pay for.

My pregnancy journey started with a positive pregnancy test in February 2025. After finding out, I called my neighborhood health center, or heilsugæsla, to let them know I was pregnant.

I was accustomed to regular healthcare appointments sometimes taking quite a while to schedule, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. Pregnancy was completely different.

A midwife called me back very quickly and started explaining what would happen next. It genuinely felt as if becoming pregnant suddenly put me at the front of the line.

That feeling continued throughout my pregnancy.

Prenatal and postpartum care in Iceland is very midwife-driven, which I ended up loving. I had 10 prenatal appointments with midwives, and unless there was a reason for more specialized medical care, I didn’t need to routinely see a gynecologist or obstetrician.

During my appointments, my midwives checked things like my blood pressure, urine, the baby’s heartbeat and my general health. I also had blood tests to monitor things like my iron and vitamin D levels.

As someone who has been completely plant-based for 11 years, I was also curious whether being vegan during pregnancy would become an issue. It didn’t. My healthcare providers weren’t judgmental about it, and the focus was simply on making sure I and the baby were healthy and getting what we needed.

I had several ultrasounds during my pregnancy. Some were part of the standard care available to me, while we chose to pay for an additional ultrasound to look more closely for potential abnormalities.

There were also additional tests along the way, including the glucose test for gestational diabetes. I will happily admit that the glucose test was one of my least favorite parts of pregnancy. 

But most of these routine aspects of my prenatal care were covered.

One of the larger expenses that I chose to pay for was a natural birthing course, which cost 50,000 ISK. I had hoped to have a natural vaginal birth. Halli and I took the course together to prepare ourselves mentally and physically.

Of course, our baby had other plans.

Later in my pregnancy, we discovered that our baby was in the breech position. It was difficult to process that news because it potentially meant that having a vaginal birth might not be possible.

The medical team attempted to manually turn her, with my consent, but she was apparently quite happy where she was and wasn’t interested in cooperating.

I was given the option of scheduling a C-section or attempting a vaginal breech birth. Because I wanted to try for a natural birth, I needed an X-ray of my pelvis to determine whether there was enough space to safely deliver a breech baby vaginally.

That X-ray was another expense I paid for myself.

What I appreciated throughout this process was that I didn’t feel pressured. The doctor explained the risks and gave her professional recommendation, but I still felt involved in the decisions being made about my body and my baby.

I had originally hoped to give birth at a midwife-led birthing center rather than in a hospital.

In Iceland, I had options regarding where I wanted to give birth, and choosing the birthing center didn’t mean paying some enormous premium for that experience.

However, once we knew the baby was breech, giving birth at the birthing center was no longer considered safe for my situation. I needed to deliver at the hospital where specialists would be available.

I went into spontaneous labor on October 23rd and gave birth on October 24th, which was her due date.

Labor was incredibly intense.

I arrived at the hospital already six centimeters dilated and initially tried to continue without pain medication. Eventually, I was too exhausted and opted for an epidural.

Actually, I had to have two epidurals, because the first didn’t work properly.

Eventually I reached eight centimeters, but the baby still wasn’t descending. My water hadn’t broken on its own, and even after the medical team broke my water and later used medication to try to move things along, she wasn’t coming down.

At that point, the doctors recommended an emergency C-section.

This was absolutely not the birth I had planned.

But what I remember very clearly is how kind the staff were when they spoke to me about it. They knew how much I had wanted to give birth vaginally. I didn’t feel like they were dismissing that or treating me like my preferences didn’t matter.

We agreed to the C-section, and not long afterward, our baby girl was here.

After an emergency C-section, surgery, anesthesia, all of the medical staff involved in delivering our baby, and everything else that happened during labor, I didn’t receive a giant hospital bill.

I spent two nights in the hospital, and I could have stayed for a third night if I wanted to.

I had a private room while recovering from my C-section, with midwives and nurses regularly checking on me. For the first 24 hours, I couldn’t even get out of bed, so I relied heavily on the hospital staff and my family.

They helped me with my recovery, checked my incision, helped with breastfeeding and cared for our baby. I was even provided vegan meals during my hospital stay.

My own hospital stay cost me nothing.

There was a small charge for Halli staying with me ($114), but compared with everything that had just happened, it was minimal.

That still blows my mind.

One of my favorite parts of postpartum care in Iceland was what happened after we went home.

I had already chosen Edythe, a midwife I knew from the birthing center, to provide my postpartum care.

She came to our home 10 times!

And I mean she actually came into our home and checked on both of us.

She checked how my C-section wound was healing and how I was feeling physically and emotionally. She weighed our baby, monitored her growth and development, helped us with her first bath, answered our endless questions and helped me tremendously when I struggled with breastfeeding.

Those visits were especially lovely because our baby was born in October. We didn’t have to bundle up a newborn and continuously leave the house during the Icelandic winter just to receive routine postpartum care.

I felt incredibly supported.

We did have some additional challenges after birth.

Our baby was diagnosed with hip dysplasia in one hip and eventually needed to wear a brace for around 20 hours a day for six weeks.

That was emotionally difficult. Seeing your tiny baby fitted into a brace and watching her cry is not something I’d wish on anyone.

Thankfully, the treatment worked incredibly well. After follow-up appointments with the pediatric orthopedic specialist, she was cleared to stop wearing the brace, and her hips have continued developing well.

We also dealt with feeding issues and the possibility of a milk allergy. Eventually, an allergist prescribed a specialized formula.

Before receiving the prescription, we were paying around $50 per can, which adds up very quickly when your baby relies on formula. Once it was prescribed, Icelandic health insurance covered six cans per month, which made an enormous difference.

Not everything I spent money on was covered by Iceland’s healthcare system.

There were things I chose to pay for myself, including my natural birthing class, some additional testing and ultrasounds, the pelvic X-ray associated with attempting a vaginal breech birth, extra postpartum blood work, and pelvic floor therapy after my C-section.

The pelvic floor therapy in particular was something I chose to do as part of my recovery, and it wasn’t included as part of my standard postpartum care.

There were also expenses associated with specialized formula before we received the prescription for it.

When I put everything together, I spent a little over $1,600 USD throughout my pregnancy, birth and postpartum experience.

And that number needs context.

It wasn’t $1,600 just to walk into the hospital and have a baby. My emergency C-section itself didn’t suddenly result in a massive bill.

I don’t want this episode to imply that the Icelandic healthcare system is perfect or that every person who has a baby in Iceland will have exactly the same experience I did. I can only speak about what happened to me. And my experience was overwhelmingly positive.

Over nine months of pregnancy, labor, an emergency C-section and postpartum recovery, there was only once when I didn’t feel unsupported, and it was an isolated event. When I had concerns, people listened. When something needed to be investigated, it was investigated.

Most importantly, I felt as though my health mattered too.

Obviously, everyone wants the baby to be healthy. But I never felt as if I stopped being a person the moment I became pregnant. My physical health, mental health, questions, fears and preferences mattered throughout the process.

I had been nervous about giving birth in a hospital. In the end, I’m incredibly grateful that I did.

The care I received throughout my pregnancy and postpartum period made what could have been a frightening experience feel manageable. Between the midwives, doctors, hospital staff, Edythe, Halli, my mom and the rest of my support system, I felt extraordinarily cared for.

And for me, that is the part of having a baby in Iceland that I will remember far longer than the final price tag.

Our daughter was born on October 24th, which is an important date in Icelandic history. On October 24, 1975, around 90% of Icelandic women stopped their paid and unpaid work as part of what became known as the Women’s Day Off (Kvennafrídagurinn), demonstrating the enormous contribution women made to Icelandic society.

Our baby was also breech and apparently quite comfortable where she was, so I like to joke that she participated in the protest herself: “I’m not doing any work. You’re going to have to come get me.”

Ljósmóðir — midwife

The literal construction of ljósmóðir is particularly beautiful: ljós means “light” and móðir means “mother.”

Midwives were such an enormous part of my pregnancy and postpartum experience in Iceland that ljósmóðir feels like the perfect Icelandic word for this episode.

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Þakka þér kærlega að fyrir og sjáumst fljótlega.

2026 marks 10 years since I moved to Iceland, which is honestly a little hard for me to believe.

I can still remember stepping off the plane, starting work, and feeling like my brain was being bombarded with things that seemed foreign or strange. Even hearing Icelandic names like Ása, Björn, and Arnbjörn took some getting used to.

https://youtu.be/AKL2qYEzEkU

Fast-forward a decade and so many of those things don’t even register as unusual anymore. They’re just…life.

Living in another country for this long has also made me realize how much our definition of “normal” is shaped by where we grow up. Things that initially made me think, People actually do this?! are now things I barely notice, and in some cases, things I do myself.

Here are 10 things that have become normal to me after living in Iceland for 10 years.

This might be the biggest transformation of them all because I went from thinking this was absolutely bizarre to doing it with my own baby.

I learned about babies napping outside when I first visited Iceland in the winter of 2013. At the time, I couldn’t understand how people could possibly be comfortable leaving a baby outside to sleep.

Then I had a baby.

Halli’s mom showed us how to bundle her up properly so she could be warm while getting fresh air outside, and it completely changed the game for us. At one point, she could sleep for around three hours outside when an indoor nap might only last about 20 minutes.

It’s also something you regularly see in Iceland. You can walk through residential neighborhoods or even pass cafés in downtown Reykjavík and see a stroller outside with a sleeping baby while a parent or caregiver is nearby and checking on them.

Years ago, that sight would have immediately caught my attention.

Now? Completely normal.

New York Jewells would like a word with current Jewells.

I moved to Iceland in June 2016, and I remember seeing Icelanders walking around in shorts, T-shirts, and sandals when it was about 60°F/15°C.

Meanwhile, I had on long pants, sneakers, a sweater AND a jacket. I genuinely thought, What is wrong with these people? This isn’t warm!

Then something happened. I acclimated!

After experiencing Icelandic winters and then feeling the temperature climb again, 60°F started feeling legitimately warm. If it’s around 60°F, sunny and, this is important, there’s no wind?

That’s practically tropical now. 

Growing up in New York, summer meant something. You knew it was going to get warm. Probably hot. Possibly way too hot!

Iceland technically has four seasons, but I’ve joked that we really have two: winter and summer. Halli says it’s more like winter and fall. 

The bigger adjustment was realizing that just because the calendar says “summer” doesn’t mean Iceland’s weather has agreed to participate.

You can have rainy, windy and chilly stretches where there’s plenty of daylight but hardly any actual sunshine. There have been summers when I felt cold for what seemed like the entire season.

It’s also no surprise that plenty of Icelanders escape somewhere warmer when Iceland isn’t delivering the summer weather they want.

Tenerife, anyone?

Icelandic summer exists. Whether it decides to show up is another question.

The nearly endless daylight of Icelandic summer is something I absolutely love now. When I first moved here?

Not so much.

My brain could not understand why I was supposed to be sleeping when it looked like the middle of the day outside. I tried sleeping with eye masks, but I didn’t find them particularly comfortable, and I constantly felt energized to stay awake and do things.

Eventually, though, my body adjusted. After a few years, I could sleep through Icelandic summers without thinking much about the daylight outside. Now I LOVE this part of living here.

Being able to go outside incredibly late at night and still have a bright sky is one of those Icelandic experiences that still feels special, even though it has become normal.

Of course, Iceland likes extremes. If summer gives us almost endless daylight, winter gives us the opposite.

Around the shortest day of the year, we get only about four hours of daylight. And while the days technically start getting longer again after the winter solstice, those changes happen slowly enough that the darkness can feel like it lasts forever.

My first Icelandic winter was rough! I remember feeling like I was basically holding on until winter ended so I could finally experience that release of summer again.

And then came May 2017. Winter seemed to be over. I had made it!

And then…it snowed.

In May!

I was MAD. 

I felt personally betrayed by Icelandic weather. After surviving winter, snow in May felt like the weather was playing games with me.

Now, I understand that unexpected weather is simply part of living here. Snow showers can happen incredibly late in the season, and Icelandic weather has a mind of its own.

Over the years, I’ve also figured out what helps me through the dark months: getting outside, exercising, keeping myself occupied and usually having a big project to work on.

The first couple of winters required some serious adjustment. After that, I found a rhythm that works for me

This is one thing I still REALLY notice when I leave Iceland.

The variety of fruits and vegetables available here can be limited compared with what I was accustomed to in the United States.

Sometimes you have a couple varieties of apples. Around Christmas, clementines and mandarins are everywhere. Other things appear periodically, but Iceland is an island that imports a significant amount of its produce, so we’re simply not going to have the same selection you’d find in a massive American supermarket.

And yes, you sometimes need to inspect that produce pretty carefully.

Then I go back to the U.S. and walk into a Whole Foods or Sprouts and practically lose my mind.

Peaches, plums, nectarines, different varieties of apples!

KALE!

The kale situation in Iceland particularly gets me because I’ve seen it grown here as decoration and I’m thinking, Can you please just put it in the grocery store so I can eat it?!

Still, I’ve stopped viewing the limited selection as inherently negative. It’s simply part of living on an island.

And when I travel, I appreciate the variety elsewhere that much more

Ohhhh, the Icelandic stare!

Coming from New York, staring at strangers is generally not something you do. Then I moved to Iceland and suddenly people were LOOKING at me.

Not glancing, staring!

I’ve been told part of this comes from the small-town nature of Icelandic society. People might look at someone because they’re trying to figure out whether they recognize them or know their family. That took some serious getting used to.

There was one experience when I lived in Árbær where a woman drove past me while practically turning her head to continue staring at me. I remember wondering whether something was happening around me before realizing, Nope. She’s looking at me.

As a Black woman walking through a suburban Icelandic neighborhood, I couldn’t know whether she was simply curious, trying to recognize me, surprised to see someone who looked like me, or something else entirely.

Eventually, I developed a coping mechanism: Staring contests.

If you’re going to stare at me, I’m staring back. 😂

These days, though, I’ve mostly stopped noticing. I’ve got my New York blinders back on. Unless someone actually says something to me, I’m getting my groceries and going about my day.

Something that once made me incredibly uncomfortable has somehow become background noise.

This was an interesting cultural shift for me because it wasn’t necessarily something I consciously decided to change my mind about.

I just absorbed a different idea of what family can look like. It’s very normal in Iceland for couples to build a life together, have children and not get married until much later, or potentially not marry at all.

When I first moved here, I was married and didn’t have children. After getting divorced, I certainly wasn’t thinking, I’m going to get into another relationship and have a baby before getting married.

But by the time that became part of my own life, it didn’t feel particularly strange anymore. There’s even an interesting linguistic element to this. Icelanders in long-term relationships might refer to their partner as konan mín (“my woman”) or maðurinn minn (“my man”) rather than using the equivalent of boyfriend or girlfriend.

People sometimes refer to unmarried partners as husband and wife in English, too, which still occasionally makes me want to clarify, We’re not married yet! 

It’s another example of how living somewhere else can quietly change the assumptions you didn’t even realize you had.

Coming from the United States, this was a BIG adjustment.

Tipping is ingrained into so many everyday interactions in the U.S. that when I first started visiting Iceland, I kept thinking: Wait…aren’t we supposed to leave something extra?

Nope.

Tipping isn’t an obligation in Iceland or expected. If you have a wonderful guide or receive excellent service and want to give someone something extra, that’s your choice. But workers aren’t standing there expecting customers to supplement their income with a tip.

I’ve gotten so accustomed to not tipping that the culture shock has now reversed itself. When I go back to the United States, I have to remind myself to tip.

I once completely forgot that I was supposed to tip the attendants at a parking garage in Manhattan because that thought doesn’t exist in my everyday life anymore.

So this is one where I’ve gone full circle. What once felt strange in Iceland now feels normal, and what used to feel normal in America requires a conscious reminder.

This might be my favorite one.

The Northern Lights are normal to me now!

I still think they’re magical. If there’s an incredible aurora display happening, I absolutely want to see it. But if I look outside and there’s just a faint little green glow?

Eh, I’m probably staying in bed.

Ten-years-ago me would NEVER.

When I first moved here, I would get up at all hours for the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. I wanted those huge, dramatic displays I’d seen in photographs. And those displays really do happen.

I’ve seen the aurora incredibly strong right from our backyard. Shortly before I gave birth, there was one display that was so intense that I jumped out of bed and ran outside to photograph it without even properly getting dressed first.

My mom was basically like, Girl, what are you doing?!

Listen. Priorities. 😂

Even after a decade, seeing really strong Northern Lights dancing across the sky in different colors can still blow me away.

But simply knowing that the aurora is part of winter? That’s normal life now.

When I look at these 10 things together, what’s fascinating isn’t necessarily the individual habits. It’s how much our idea of normal can change.

These were things that ranged from confusing to uncomfortable to downright bizarre to me when I first encountered them. Ten years later, many are so deeply integrated into my everyday life that I barely think about them anymore.

Maybe that’s one of the most interesting parts of living abroad long-term. You don’t simply learn about another culture. Little by little, parts of that culture become part of you.

Which brings me back to the question I used for this episode:

Am I Icelandic now? 😂🇮🇸 Not quite.

But after 10 years, Iceland has definitely rubbed off on me.

Most Icelanders don’t have traditional family surnames in the way many other countries do.

Instead, Iceland commonly uses a patronymic or matronymic naming system based on a parent’s first name.

For example, if a man named Jón has a son named Einar, his son could be Einar Jónsson, essentially, Einar, Jón’s son. A daughter could be Anna Jónsdóttir, which is Anna, Jón’s daughter.

It’s also one reason first names play such an important role in Icelandic society. People generally address each other by their first names, including in situations where titles or surnames might be expected in other cultures.

It feels particularly appropriate for this episode because even Icelandic names were among the things that sounded unfamiliar to me when I first arrived. Now names like Ása and Björn don’t make me think twice.

The Icelandic word of this episode is venjast, which means “to get used to” or “to become accustomed to.”

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Planning to rent a car in Iceland? Learn how Iceland’s new road tax works, why it was introduced, how it affects tourists, and how you can save money on your rental. I’ll also explain why not all rental car companies charge the fee the same way and share my recommendations after living in Iceland for the past 10 years.

One of the biggest reasons I recommend renting a car in Iceland is the freedom it gives you.

Some of my favorite memories have come from pulling over at an unexpected waterfall, taking a detour because someone mentioned a hidden canyon, or completely changing my plans after seeing that the weather was better in another part of the country.

Those spontaneous moments are often the highlights of an Iceland trip.

That’s why, when Iceland introduced a new road fee at the beginning of 2026, I immediately started getting questions from members of the All Things Iceland community.

People wanted to know:

If you’ve been wondering the same thing, you’re definitely not alone.

In this guide, I’ll explain everything you need to know about Iceland’s new road fee, including why it was introduced, how it works, how it affects tourists renting cars and camper vans, how different rental companies handle the fee, and some practical ways to save money while planning your Iceland road trip.

https://youtu.be/oqXebmLiA38

Although you’ll often hear people, including me, refer to it as Iceland’s new road tax, the official name is the kilometer fee, or kílómetragjald in Icelandic.

The fee officially came into effect on January 1, 2026, and it’s designed to help fund Iceland’s road infrastructure in a different way than before.

Under the standard government system, most passenger vehicles are charged 6.95 ISK per kilometer driven, although rates vary depending on the vehicle’s weight and classification.

Unlike a toll road where you stop to pay at a booth, this fee is based on the total number of kilometers a vehicle travels.

For Icelandic residents who own a vehicle, the fee is reported and paid according to government regulations.

For visitors, however, the process is much simpler because your rental company handles it for you.

That means you don’t have to register with the Icelandic government or report your mileage yourself. Instead, the rental company collects the fee as part of your rental agreement before paying it to the government.

This is where many travelers become confused because not every rental company chooses to pass that fee on in the same way.

I’ll cover that in detail a little later because understanding this difference can make budgeting your trip much easier.

At first glance, it’s easy to assume that Iceland simply added another fee for travelers. But the reality is a bit more nuanced.

For many years, Iceland paid for a significant portion of its road maintenance through taxes on gasoline and diesel fuel. The idea was simple: the more you drove, the more fuel you purchased, and the more you contributed toward maintaining the country’s roads.

That system worked well when nearly every vehicle relied on fossil fuels. However, Iceland has seen a rapid increase in hybrid and fully electric vehicles over the past several years. Those vehicles still use the roads every day, but they purchase much less, or no, gasoline or diesel.

As a result, the government was collecting less revenue from fuel taxes while road maintenance costs continued to grow. The kilometer fee was introduced to create a funding system that applies more consistently across different types of vehicles, regardless of how they’re powered.

As with any major policy change, it has generated plenty of discussion within Iceland. Some residents feel the reduction in fuel taxes doesn’t fully offset the new kilometer fee, while others see it as a fairer way to fund the country’s road network.

For travelers, though, the most important takeaway is understanding how the fee works and how your rental company chooses to collect it, because that’s what will ultimately affect your budget.

Yes. Whether you’re visiting Iceland for a long Ring Road adventure, spending a week exploring the South Coast, or taking a short getaway around Reykjavík and the Golden Circle, this new fee applies to rental vehicles.

If you’re someone who loves taking scenic detours (and trust me, Iceland will tempt you to do exactly that), knowing how your rental company charges this fee can give you much more peace of mind.

This is probably the pricing model most travelers expect. Some rental companies simply pass the government’s kilometer fee directly on to you. When you pick up your vehicle, the current odometer reading is recorded.

When you return it, the rental company calculates how many kilometers you’ve driven and charges the corresponding road fee. The benefit of this approach is that you’re paying for exactly the distance you traveled.

If you only plan to drive around Reykjavík for a couple of days, this could result in a relatively small road-fee charge. The downside is that your final cost isn’t always easy to predict.

If your plans change, which they often do in Iceland, you may end up driving much farther than you originally expected. Suddenly, that carefully planned travel budget starts to look a little different.

Some rental companies have chosen a different approach.vRather than charging based on every kilometer driven, they charge a fixed road fee for each rental day.

For example, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers currently charge a mandatory road fee of €10.50 per rental day, regardless of your insurance coverage or how many kilometers you drive during your rental.

Personally, I really appreciate this pricing model. One of the first things I tell people planning an Iceland trip is to leave room for spontaneity.

Maybe you hear about a hidden hot spring from another traveler.

Maybe someone recommends an incredible canyon that wasn’t on your itinerary.

Maybe the weather forecast changes overnight, and you decide to spend the day exploring a completely different region.

Those things happen all the time here. With a flat daily fee, you’re free to make those decisions without wondering whether every extra kilometer is increasing your final bill.

Instead, you already know what the road-fee portion of your rental will cost before your trip even begins. For me, that kind of predictability is worth a lot.

If you’re still deciding which rental car is right for your trip, I’ve created a free Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland that goes far beyond the new kilometer fee.

Absolutely. Even with this additional cost, I still believe renting a car is the best way to experience Iceland for most visitors.

One of the things I love most about living here is that Iceland constantly rewards curiosity. Some of the country’s most memorable places aren’t found on a typical itinerary. They’re discovered because you decided to stop at an overlook, follow a sign pointing toward a waterfall, or take a scenic detour after chatting with another traveler.

Having your own vehicle gives you that freedom. You’re not rushing to catch a tour bus, worrying about train schedules, or feeling like you have to leave somewhere just because everyone else is. Instead, you can experience Iceland at your own pace.

That’s something I think is incredibly valuable. Of course, the new kilometer fee does add another expense to your trip. But in the grand scheme of an Iceland vacation, I don’t think it’s a reason to avoid renting a car altogether.

Instead, it’s simply another cost to understand and plan for before you arrive.

No matter which pricing model your rental company uses, my advice is simple: Plan for the road fee before you arrive.

Just like budgeting for fuel, parking, or accommodation, this is now another normal part of planning an Iceland road trip.

The good news is that once you’ve factored it into your budget, there really aren’t any surprises.

In fact, I think the bigger financial mistakes people make when renting a car in Iceland have nothing to do with the road fee at all.

Those are the kinds of mistakes that can cost hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars.

Compared to those, understanding the road fee is actually one of the easier parts of planning your trip.

Below is a way that you can save money on your rental car in Iceland.

If you’re already planning to rent a car or camper van, there’s no reason not to take advantage of available discounts.

I’ve partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers because I’ve personally used both companies for years, and they’ve consistently provided excellent customer service and reliable vehicles for my adventures around Iceland.

When you book through my discount links, you’ll receive:

The discounts are automatically applied when you book through my links and enter your rental dates, making them an easy way to offset part of Iceland’s new road fee while supporting All Things Iceland at no additional cost to you.

Understanding the new road fee is just one piece of the puzzle.

If you’re still deciding whether you need a 2WD or a 4×4, wondering which insurance is actually worth purchasing, or trying to understand Iceland’s gravel roads, F-roads, parking rules, and seasonal driving conditions, I’ve put everything together in my Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland.

It’s completely free, regularly updated, and designed to help you avoid the most common mistakes travelers make before they even arrive in Iceland.

No. If you’re renting a car or camper van in Iceland, the road fee is part of the cost of driving. The way it’s charged depends on your rental company, but it isn’t something visitors can opt out of.

Absolutely. Even with the introduction of the road fee, I still believe renting a car offers the greatest flexibility and allows you to experience parts of Iceland that many tour groups never visit.

Some companies have chosen to simplify the government’s kilometer fee by charging a predictable daily amount instead.

For example, Go Car Rental and Go Campers currently charge a mandatory road fee of €10.50 per rental day, regardless of how many kilometers you drive.

It depends on your travel style. If you’re planning very little driving, paying per kilometer could potentially cost less.

However, if you’re planning a Ring Road trip or simply want the freedom to take spontaneous detours without thinking about every kilometer, many travelers, including me, appreciate the predictability of a fixed daily fee.

Did you know that Iceland’s famous Ring Road (Route 1) stretches approximately 1,322 kilometers (821 miles) around the entire island?

While many visitors dream of driving the complete Ring Road, some of the country’s most unforgettable experiences come from venturing beyond it. Scenic detours to places like the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the Westfjords, the Westman Islands, or even into the remote Highlands often become the highlights of a trip. Snæfellsnes Peninsula Westfjords Westman Islands Highlands of Iceland

That’s one of the reasons I think it’s so important to understand how your rental company charges Iceland’s new road fee. If your itinerary changes—and trust me, it often does because of weather or unexpected discoveries—you’ll already know what to expect when it comes to your driving costs.

One of my favorite parts of the All Things Iceland podcast is sharing an Icelandic word or phrase at the end of each episode.

Today’s word is:

Pronunciation: KEE-loh-meh-trah-gyald

The word is made up of two smaller Icelandic words:

Put them together, and kílómetragjald literally means “kilometer fee.”

This is the official Icelandic term used to describe the country’s new distance-based road charge that came into effect in 2026.

So, if you happen to see news articles, government information, or conversations in Icelandic about the new road fee, you’ll likely come across the word kílómetragjald.

It’s a fun word to know—not just because it relates to this topic, but because it also gives you a little insight into how Icelandic words are often built by combining smaller words to create a very literal meaning.

 Before you book, grab my free Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland. It includes everything you need to know about Iceland’s new kilometer fee, choosing the right rental car, insurance, F-roads, parking, winter driving, and more.

And if you’re ready to book your rental, don’t forget to use my 7% discount links for Go Car Rental Iceland (plus free 4G WiFi) or Go Campers (plus a free sleeping bag) to save money on your trip.

After eight months of maternity leave in Iceland, I’m finally back to work. Looking back, I can honestly say that this experience has given me an entirely new appreciation for Iceland’s parental leave system.

Before becoming a mom, I had so many questions. Would I qualify since I own my own business? How would my payments be calculated? How much time would I actually get with Eva? And what would maternity leave even feel like?

In this episode/blog, I’m sharing both how parental leave works in Iceland and my personal experience navigating it as a first-time mom.

https://youtu.be/BzbZjLI2-xo

One of the things I love most about Iceland’s parental leave system is that it’s designed for both parents.

Each parent is entitled to six months of parental leave, giving families a total of twelve months together. Parents also have the option to transfer up to six weeks of their leave to one another, while still encouraging both parents to spend meaningful time bonding with their child.

Another aspect I really appreciate is the flexibility. Parents can spread their leave out and use it until the child turns two years old.

In our family, I decided to take my leave all at once, while Halli took the first three months immediately after Eva was born. He still has additional leave remaining that he plans to use before she turns two.

For me, this flexibility is one of the strongest parts of Iceland’s system because every family’s needs are different.

One of my biggest concerns before having Eva was whether I would qualify for parental leave since I own my own company.

Even though I’m the only employee at All Things Iceland, I still pay all of the required employer contributions, including payments into Iceland’s parental leave fund, known as the Fæðingarorlofssjóður.

One important difference for self-employed people is how parental leave payments are calculated.

Instead of looking at recent monthly wages like traditional employees, self-employed parents have their payments calculated using their average income from the previous tax year.

It was fascinating learning how that process worked, and thankfully everything went smoothly for me. Even so, it made me realize how important it is for self-employed people to understand these rules before planning parental leave.

Although I technically had six months of paid leave, I decided to spread those payments across eight months.

That meant receiving smaller monthly payments while allowing me to stay home with Eva for longer.

For me, six months simply didn’t feel like enough.

Maybe it was because I wanted to experience more of Iceland’s brighter spring and summer months with her, or maybe I simply wasn’t ready to jump back into work.

Whatever the reason, I’m incredibly grateful that Iceland gave me the flexibility to make that decision.

Parental leave in Iceland isn’t intended to fully replace a person’s salary.

Instead, the goal is to provide financial support so parents can spend meaningful time with their child during those first months.

One thing that surprised me was seeing how taxes and pension contributions affected my monthly payments. While the payment calculations were straightforward, it reminded me that the advertised amount is before taxes are deducted.

Overall, though, I appreciated having financial support while focusing on recovery and motherhood.

One thing that pleasantly surprised me was how straightforward the application process was.

Everything is completed online through Ísland.is, making the system relatively simple to navigate. Since I work for myself, I also involved my accountant to make sure all of my paperwork was submitted correctly.

I decided to begin my maternity leave before Eva’s due date so I could prepare our home, finish work projects, and mentally transition into motherhood. Looking back, giving myself that extra time before she arrived was one of the best decisions I made.

Before Eva was born, I honestly had no idea what maternity leave would feel like. The beginning of my leave was a combination of overwhelming joy and genuine struggle.

After an emergency C-section, recovering physically while learning how to care for a newborn was incredibly challenging. I had also gained more than 60 pounds during pregnancy, so my body had a lot of healing to do.

One of the greatest blessings during those early months was having my mom come to Iceland to live with us for Eva’s first three months. She cooked, cleaned, did laundry, and helped care for all of us. Looking back, I don’t know what we would have done without her.

Having Halli home during those first months made an enormous difference as well. Those early weeks together as a family are memories I’ll always treasure.

Recovery doesn’t happen overnight. Learning how to become a parent doesn’t happen overnight either.

That’s why I believe parental leave is so incredibly valuable.

Although my maternity leave has officially ended, life certainly hasn’t returned to what it looked like before becoming a mom.

Eva is still home with me, and I’ve built a hybrid work schedule that allows me to continue running All Things Iceland while spending quality time with her.

A babysitter helps a few hours each day while I work from home, allowing me to continue creating videos, recording podcasts, consulting with travelers, and developing resources for people planning trips to Iceland.

Some days everything works beautifully. Other days, absolutely nothing goes according to plan.

I’ve learned that motherhood is constantly changing, and just when I think I’ve figured everything out, Eva reaches another milestone and we’re adapting all over again.

Looking back, these eight months went by much faster than I ever imagined.

Before becoming a mom, eight months sounded like a really long time. Now it feels like it passed in the blink of an eye.

I’m deeply grateful that Iceland gave me the opportunity to spend this time healing, bonding with Eva, and gradually finding my footing as a new parent.

No parental leave system is perfect, but I genuinely appreciate that Iceland recognizes the importance of giving families meaningful time together during such an important chapter of life.

Did you know that Iceland is consistently ranked among the world’s most family-friendly countries? UNICEF has recognized Iceland as one of the top countries for family-friendly policies thanks to its generous paid parental leave and support for working parents.

Fæðingarorlofssjóður (Parental Leave Fund)

This is the government fund that pays parental leave benefits in Iceland. As someone who owns my own business, my company contributes to this fund just like other employers do, which is why I was eligible for parental leave as a self-employed parent.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir aðhlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Over the last decade of living in Iceland, I’ve taken numerous solo trips around the country, including several solo camper van adventures. My very first solo camper van trip was a two-week Ring Road journey in May 2022, and it taught me more than I ever expected.

I was excited, nervous, anxious, and completely ready to see what Iceland would feel like on my own.

Since then, I’ve helped countless travelers plan their Iceland adventures through private consultations, and I’ve noticed the same questions and concerns come up repeatedly for people considering solo camper van travel.

Whether you’re planning your first solo trip or simply looking for practical advice, these are 21 of my biggest lessons, mistakes, tips, and honest thoughts after years of exploring Iceland on my own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVLaVg5G618

Even during summer, Iceland can get surprisingly cold at night. A heater can make the difference between a miserable night and a comfortable one.

I personally use the Go Lite Camper from Go Campers, and I run the heater almost every trip, even in July and August. Since you’re traveling alone, you don’t have another person helping generate body heat inside the van, so staying warm becomes even more important.

Iceland is incredibly safe, but that doesn’t mean you should be careless.

Whenever I left my van, even for a quick bathroom run, I locked it. I also locked it while sleeping at night. Most thefts are avoidable by keeping valuables out of sight and securing your vehicle properly.

While camper van break-ins are uncommon, pickpocketing can happen in busy tourist areas such as Reykjavík and popular Golden Circle attractions. It’s sad to say that pickpocketing has increased in recent years, so you have to be vigilant with securing your personal items in your backpacks or pockets. 

Keep your bag zipped, valuables secure, and never leave important items visible.  This doesn’t happen on a massive scale in Iceland but it is happening enough that I have to talk about it. As a solo travel, you don’t have anyone else to look out for you, which can make you an easier target.

This is one area where I recommend not cutting corners.

Sand and ash protection is especially important in Iceland. Strong winds can cause serious damage to vehicles, and repairs can become very expensive if you aren’t properly covered. While this does apply to everyone who rents a car or camper van in Iceland, I feel it is very important for solo traveling because you are bearing the full cost on your own if something happens to the vehicle. Better to be protected than to be surprised with a big bill later on for damage that was not covered.

Check what your credit card covers, but don’t assume it includes Iceland-specific risks. 

You can use my discount link to save 7% on your camper van rental with Go Campers and receive a free sleeping bag.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

When you click on my discount link (https://www.gocampers.is/?ref=allthingsiceland), choose the dates for your travel and the 7% discount will automatically be applied.

Choose a sleeping bag under the “extras” section, and the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Your phone becomes your camera, GPS, communication device, and safety tool while traveling.

A portable battery pack (power bank) has saved me numerous times when filming content or spending long days on trails. Plus, it is always necessary to have a charged device just in case you need to call for help, especially when traveling solo.

Here is an affordable power bank option.

Even simple phrases like:

can create meaningful interactions with locals.

One of my favorite memories was chatting with a farmer in North Iceland who was genuinely excited that I was attempting to speak Icelandic. It certainly is not necessary to do this but a little goes a long way, in this instance. It was nice to be able to connect with Icelanders along the way, when I felt uop to socializing.

Iceland’s weather changes constantly. A proper layering system should include:

This helps you stay comfortable without overpacking. You can find all of the essentials to pack in my free Ultimate Packing Checklist for Iceland.

Packing cubes completely changed my camper van experience. Instead of digging through piles of clothes, everything stays organized and easy to find.

When you’re living in a small space, even on your own, organization matters. My trip felt much more enjoyable because I could easily find clothes when I needed to, so I could continue on my adventure.

These packing cubes are great!

In my opinion, the size of your camper van does matter. Just because you are one person, doesn’t mean that the smallest size is the most suitable.

I personally prefer a mid-sized camper van because it offers enough space to be comfortable while remaining easy to drive and park.

I absolutely loved the ability to convert the bed into a table is especially useful during bad weather. It is work to make the conversion but it is totally doable as a solo traveler.

Many camper vans already come with many things you need. The Go Lite Camper  that I frequently used and the other camper vans from Go Campers include:

Knowing what’s already included prevents unnecessary packing, and makes your solo traveling experience much easier.

This might be the least glamorous part of camper van life. I dreaded getting out of the van in the middle of the night to use the bathroom but I couldn’t avoid it. For those who don’t know, summer in Iceland can mean a high of 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The evenings are normally chillier, so I figured out a strategy that works for me when it comes to these late night bathroom runs.

Being warm and cozy inside your sleeping bag makes those late-night bathroom trips feel much harder.

My solution:

I always locked my van when I left it, even in the middle of the night. Once, I got back in the van, I locked it again, because it made me feel secure knowing no one can get in the van while I slept.

I learned this lesson the hard way. While visiting a hot spring in the Westfjords, I slipped and cut my toe. That was in the beginning of my first solo travel journey, and it sucked! It is not fun for that to happen, in general, but as a solo traveler, I was the only one there to take care of me. Yes, accidents can happen but some can be avoided. Bringing water shoes is added in protection from the elements, especially in natural hot springs.

Water shoes provide:

They’re now a permanent part of my packing list.

Here are some water shoes that work well for Iceland.

Travel fatigue is real. As a solo traveler, you are the only one making all of the decisions, cooking all the meals, doing the driving, and so on. Sometimes, you are too tired to make a full meal and if the weather is acting up, you might be in your van for a while.

Having familiar snacks helps when you’re tired, hungry, or simply don’t feel like making another decision.

Some of my favorites include:

These were life savers during or after a long drive when I didn’t have the energy or time to cook a full meal.

Not all campsites are equal in Iceland.

Some offer:

Others provide only the basics in Iceland, and the price can still be the same! I like to use tjalda.is to search for camp sites all over Iceland that have the amenities that I want. If I found one that suited my needs, like a shower and laundry facilities, I would look up the Google Reviews for the place to see what others have said about it.

Sometimes, I was willing to stay at a basic campsite because of its proximity to the attraction I was going to next, but I at least knew before I arrived that it was a basic campsite.

It’s also helpful to know that in summer, all campsites in Iceland are open, but during fall, winter, and spring

A little research ahead of time can significantly improve your trip, and help you manage expectations.

Because almost every town, even really small ones, have a  swimming pool in Iceland, there are over 100 of them to choose from. 

They are fantastic places to:

They’re also one of the most authentic Icelandic experiences you can have. Whether you feel like socializing or just having a relaxing soak, add some local swimming pools to your itinerary.

One of my favorite discoveries was how enjoyable it is to cook inside the camper van during rainy or very windy weather.

It’s comfortable, practical, and often much cheaper than eating out every day. Plus, in the Go Lite camper, there are vents in the ceiling and it is easy to open the doors for ventilation 

Iceland takes speeding seriously. Fines can be extremely expensive.

I’ve heard of travelers paying:

As a solo traveler, those type of fines can completely bust your budget. Since that is totally avoidable, stick to the speed limits and enjoy the scenery instead.

Conditions can change dramatically across Iceland, even within the same day. I remember driving in an area with blue skies and a completely clear road to then encounter snow on the road and cloud coverage.

That all happened within an hour in East Iceland. Granted, I was driving higher up in elevation, but those conditions are entirely possible in Iceland. You can be prepared for them by checking the weather ahead of time.

My go-to resources before heading out for the day in Iceland are:

The Highlands are incredible, but they require extra preparation. There are many places in the highlands that are not great for solo travel because the roads are intense due to deep river crossings.

If you’re new to Highland driving, a beginner-friendly area I highly recommend is Hveradalir geothermal area in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range.

I have been there many times and it’s an incredibly beautiful place. The road can get a little rough but it doesn’t require a river crossing, which is a big relief for anyone traveling there.

Before going there, make sure your camper van is approved and insured for driving on F-roads.

Wild camping with a camper van is not allowed in Iceland. Following the rules helps protect Iceland’s nature and avoids costly fines.

You must stay at an official campsites. I think this an especially positive law for solo travelers because you are at a spot where others are around in case you need help, it is safe, and there are facilities around for you to use.

As I mentioned in #14, not all campsites in Iceland are created equal, so please do your research on which campsite suits you before going there.

You normally do not need to pre-book a campsite. However, I highly recommend doing so, if you plan to camp during two occasions in Iceland.

The first is Versulnarmannahelgi (Shop Keeper’s weekend). It’s always the weekend that includes the first Monday in August. During that weekend, many Icelanders go camping around the country, so the popular campsites get booked up.

The second occasion is specific to 2026, which is the Total Solar Eclipse on August 12th. The prices for hotels and accommodations are thousands of dollars per night. Even camper van prices have increased for that week due to demand. It is worth booking campsites for at least the 11th and 12th.

This might be the most important lesson of all. Traveling alone gives you space to think, reflect, and experience Iceland at your own pace.

Some of my favorite memories are simply standing in nature, listening to the wind, watching the landscape, and appreciating the freedom that comes with solo travel. It’s not always comfortable, but it is incredibly rewarding.

If you’re planning your own adventure around Iceland, these free resources can help:

Know exactly what to pack for every season.

Save money on:

Learn about:

I also offer a limited number of private trip consultations where I help travelers create an itinerary, choose the right route, and maximize their time in Iceland.

Happy travels, and I hope your solo Iceland adventure is as memorable as mine has been.

During one of my camper van trips, I actually got stuck in the mud and had to get help getting out.

Thankfully, someone kind helped because rescue services in Iceland can sometimes cost close to $1,000 depending on the situation.

Húsbíll – camper van

Hús means House in Icelandic and bíll means car, so it is literally a house car.

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Thank you for listening and see you soon.

What if your next trip to Iceland could do more than create unforgettable memories?

In this episode, I sit down with Anne Peters and geologist Johannes Marteinn from Katla UNESCO Global Geopark to explore one of the most fascinating experiences I’ve ever had in Iceland: science-backed expeditions where everyday travelers help collect real scientific data.

The best part? You don’t need any scientific experience. If you can hike, take photos, or learn to use simple equipment, you can contribute to research that’s helping scientists better understand Iceland’s rapidly changing landscapes.

https://youtu.be/VxqVdGRYnak

If you’d like to experience one of these science-backed expeditions yourself, you can save 10% by using my code JEWELLS when booking through Katla UNESCO Global Geopark.

Here is the expeditions – https://www.katlageopark.com/about-katla/research/science-driven-expeditions/

I genuinely loved taking part in these expeditions because I wasn’t just admiring Iceland’s incredible landscapes, I was helping researchers collect information that contributes to understanding how Iceland is changing. It completely transformed the way I think about travel, and I hope this conversation inspires you to experience Iceland in a whole new way as a citizen scientist.

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Learning Icelandic can honestly feel overwhelming. If you’ve ever tried to learn the language, you probably already know that there are a lot of scattered resources online, different classes, private tutors, apps, YouTube videos, grammar books, and random websites that may or may not help depending on your learning style. One of the questions I get asked the most is how to actually learn Icelandic and what resources are worthwhile.

When I first heard about a program called Icelandic AI, I was really intrigued. Not because I thought it would magically make anyone fluent overnight, but because I was curious whether there was finally one platform that could bring many of these learning tools together in a more organized and comprehensive way.

Just for some context, I’ve been living in Iceland since 2016, so almost 10 years now. I’m at an intermediate level in Icelandic, and over the years I’ve taken multiple Icelandic classes, worked with private tutors, studied on my own, and I regularly speak Icelandic with my boyfriend and his family. So while I’m definitely not claiming to be fluent, I do feel like I have a good understanding of what makes a language-learning resource actually useful.

I also want to be transparent that I am collaborating with Icelandic AI in the sense that I reached out to them because I wanted access to the platform to test it out and share my thoughts with my audience. However, this is not a paid review, and I do not benefit financially if people sign up through the platform. I genuinely just wanted to see if this was a resource worth recommending because I know how difficult it can be to figure out where to even start with Icelandic.

Overall, I have to say that Icelandic AI is one of the more comprehensive Icelandic-learning platforms I’ve seen so far.

The platform was created by Sandra, and the “AI” part of the name is actually referring to her AI twin or clone. So instead of it being like ChatGPT or Claude where the AI is actively learning you and responding dynamically, it’s more that Sandra has created an AI version of herself that guides you through the lessons using her voice and likeness. There are also additional AI characters named Monica and Oscar who help throughout the platform as well.

At the time of recording this episode, I’ve completed about 55% of Level 1, which has already taken me around 49 hours, and I’ve also started Level 2. Even as someone who already has background knowledge in Icelandic, I’ve still found it useful as a review tool and as a way to reinforce concepts I’ve already learned.

One thing I also appreciate is that the platform doesn’t feel rushed or surface level. There’s a lot of depth built into it, and you can tell that a huge amount of work went into organizing the information in a structured way. It’s not just random vocabulary words thrown at you. There’s an actual progression to how concepts are introduced and built upon over time.

Now let’s get into the pros and cons.

All of the core things you need to learn Icelandic are included: grammar, conjugation, sentence structure, pronunciation, vocabulary, and the four Icelandic cases. There is a lot of depth to the lessons.

You can work through the lessons on your own time and from anywhere. Right now it works best on a computer, but they mentioned they are working on a mobile-friendly version as well.

If you live and work in Iceland and are part of a union, there’s a possibility you can use your educational reimbursement funds toward the course because it has educational certification.

The platform has a community tab where you can ask questions and interact with the Icelandic AI team, which is helpful when you need clarification.

You can record yourself speaking into your microphone and the platform gives feedback in the form of a percentage score from 0–100 based on pronunciation accuracy. I actually found this surprisingly useful.

The lessons are interactive, visually appealing, and easy to follow. There are a lot of graphics and clickable elements that make it feel more engaging than just staring at blocks of text.

The progression makes sense. You start with greetings and introductions, then move into present tense and foundational concepts before building into more advanced grammar and sentence structure.

Honestly, there is a lot in here. It can feel a little overwhelming at first, but in a good way. You’re definitely not going to run out of things to study anytime soon.

The platform includes quizzes, review sections, and flashcards to help reinforce what you’ve learned.

At the end of the levels, you receive a certificate showing you completed the coursework, which is a nice touch.

One thing I kept thinking while going through the lessons was that I really wish something like this had existed when I first started learning Icelandic years ago. Back then, I felt like I was constantly piecing together resources from all over the internet. This feels much more centralized and organized, which can make a huge difference for beginners who don’t even know where to start.

This is probably the most important thing to understand going into the platform. The AI is not actively talking back and forth with you the way ChatGPT or Claude would. Sandra’s AI twin guides you through lessons, but it’s not a live conversational experience.

If your goal is becoming conversational, you’ll still need to practice speaking with real people outside of Icelandic AI, whether that’s friends, tutors, classmates, or language exchange partners.

While the pronunciation checker is helpful, I do wish it played back your voice or directly compared your pronunciation to a native speaker’s recording. I think that would make the feedback even more useful.

Because this is self-paced, it requires discipline. Unlike in-person classes where there’s accountability and scheduled meetings, you have to consistently show up for yourself and stay committed.

Right now the platform includes Levels 1 through 3, and I’ve heard more levels are coming. But if you’re already intermediate or advanced, you may move through the current material fairly quickly and have to wait for additional content.

I’ve genuinely enjoyed using Icelandic AI, and I plan to continue going through the lessons because I think it’s a really valuable review tool even at my current level.

At the same time, I still don’t believe there’s one perfect resource that can fully teach you Icelandic on its own. I think learning this language usually requires a combination of resources, consistency, practice, and patience. But as far as comprehensive platforms go, Icelandic AI is definitely one of the better ones I’ve personally seen.

I also think it’s important to remember that learning Icelandic is a long-term process. This is not an “I studied for two weeks and now I’m fluent” type of language. It takes repetition, exposure, practice, and patience. So having a resource that keeps everything organized and accessible in one place can genuinely be really helpful.

If you want to check it out for yourself, here is the link to Icelandic AI. As always, it’s completely up to you, but hopefully hearing my experience gives you a better idea of whether it might fit your learning style and goals.

One random fact about the Icelandic language is that Icelandic has changed so little over time that modern Icelanders can still read the medieval Icelandic sagas written hundreds of years ago with relatively little difficulty.

Compared to English, which has changed dramatically over the centuries, Icelandic has remained incredibly well preserved, which is one of the reasons why the language is both fascinating and challenging to learn.

The Icelandic word of the episode is “Æfa sig”, which means “to practice.”

And honestly, I think that’s one of the biggest lessons when it comes to learning Icelandic. There’s no perfect app, no perfect teacher, and no perfect method. A lot of it really comes down to consistently practicing, even when the language feels difficult or awkward.

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