All Things Iceland

Sprengisandur is a barren and desolate highland plateau in central Iceland, located between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers. Historically, it was an infamous north-south route connecting various regions, including access to the Alþingi (Iceland’s parliament) at Þingvellir during medieval times.

This route, however, was fraught with extreme challenges, making it one of the most feared and avoided paths of the Icelandic interior.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024.

Travelers faced vast stretches of uninhabited terrain, where no shelter, food, or water was available for miles. The volcanic ash deserts offered no forage for horses, and the journey had to be completed swiftly, often pushing horses to their limits. The route was also steeped in superstition, with tales of ghosts and spirits haunting the desolate sands adding to its ominous reputation.

Today, a gravel road roughly follows the ancient trail, accessible only in summer, and is popular among adventurous travelers equipped with robust vehicles. It offers dramatic views of glaciers, mountains, and volcanic landscapes, preserving its mystique as one of Iceland’s most challenging historical route.

There was a man named Starkaður who lived in northern Iceland but the woman he loved lived in the far south. Driven by love, Starkaður decided to make the long journey across the harsh and desolate Sprengisandur to see her.

Tragically, he was caught in a fierce storm along the way and succumbed to the freezing conditions beneath a rock. That rock, now called Starkaðarsteinn (Starkaður’s Rock), marks the spot where he died. The surrounding area was also named in his memory, becoming known as Starkaðarver.

Around the time of his death, his love had a vivid dream in which Starkaður appeared to her. In this dream, he recited a poignant verse:

“Sorrows and harms for a woman’s charms

men have often suffered.

Starkaður’s bones under the stones

still lie undiscovered.”

https://youtu.be/ogUgm3K8KVI?si=C2PWn9NRC0muBwIM

“Á Sprengisandi” is a well known Icelandic song about this desolate and dangerous black sand desert in the highlands. It means “At Sprengisandur” and warns people that if they do not travel quickly through this area, they can meet their peril.

The name “Sprengisandur” reflects this urgency, stemming from the Icelandic word sprengja, meaning “to exhaust” or “to burst,” referring to the strain placed on horses during the crossing.

Harsh weather, including strong winds and snow, compounded the danger, and travelers who ventured too late in the season risked becoming stranded or perishing from exposure.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

To celebrate the relaunch of the All Things Iceland online store, I am doing a 20% site-wide sale. This sale is only valid through Wednesday, November 27th at 11:59 PM EST or while supplies last.

Below are some examples of Iceland inspired gifts that you can get for yourself or a loved one this holiday season.

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Many centuries ago, a mysterious woman arrived in the small community of Nes in Borgarfjörður. No one knew where she had come from, but her beauty and grace quickly won the respect of the locals. She settled in Nes and gradually took control of the entire estate, becoming its mistress. Her name was Snotra, and though she was admired, she carried an air of secrecy.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024.

One day, Snotra appointed a steward to manage the estate and presented him with a challenge. She told him she would be leaving for the Christmas holiday, but when she returned, he must correctly guess where she had been. If he failed, he would forfeit his life. However, if he succeeded, she promised to reward him richly.

As Christmas approached, Snotra made preparations to leave. On Christmas Eve, she departed without revealing her destination. When she returned after the holiday, she asked the steward if he could say where she had been. He admitted he could not. Shortly after, the steward vanished, never to be seen again.

This same fate befell two more stewards, each unable to solve the mystery of Snotra’s Christmas journeys. Finally, a fourth steward was appointed. Like the others, Snotra told him he must uncover her secret or face dire consequences. The steward, however, resolved to succeed where the others had failed.

As Christmas Eve arrived, the workers retired for the night, but the steward stayed awake. Hidden in the shadows, he watched as Snotra slipped out of the house carrying a bundle. He followed her silently across the fields to the rocky shore, where she sat and unwrapped her parcel.

Inside were delicate veils. Snotra draped one veil over her head and threw another into the sea. As she leapt into the water, the steward boldly grabbed a veil and followed her. Suddenly, they were traveling through a swirling mist until they emerged in a land unlike any he had ever seen. The air was filled with the scent of herbs and fruit, and the landscape was lush with orchards.

In the distance, the steward saw a magnificent city surrounded by high walls. Snotra, now wearing her veil, entered the city gates to the sound of music and a warm welcome. She gestured for the steward to stay in a small building near two tall structures, from which he could observe what happened inside the grand hall.

Curious, the steward peered through a window and saw an incredible celebration. The hall was filled with people in splendid clothing, dancing and feasting. At the center of the festivities sat a noble man on a throne, and beside him was Snotra, adorned in regal attire.

Night after night, the steward watched the same scene: music, dancing, and Snotra by the man’s side. On the last evening, he noticed a disturbance. Two men approached the nobleman, reporting that a cow had given birth to twin calves, but one was dead. The two women tasked with caring for the cow blamed each other for the calf’s death. The nobleman grew angry at the dispute, and the steward could see the tension in the hall.

When Christmas ended, Snotra prepared to leave. A grand procession escorted her from the city, with the nobleman leading her by the hand. The steward followed her as she retraced her path through the mist, arriving back at the same rocky shore. She removed her veil and folded it carefully, and the steward did the same before throwing his veil to her.

Snotra said nothing and returned to the house. The steward followed her and rested until morning. When the workers rose for their daily tasks, Snotra approached him and asked if he could say where she had been. The steward replied, “I cannot say exactly, but I saw two women arguing over the death of a calf, and it angered the King.”

At this, Snotra smiled and said, “Thank you. You have broken the spell that bound me. Long ago, I was cursed to leave my husband and live apart from him, only able to see him at Christmas.

The curse could only be lifted if someone discovered where I went during the holiday. You are the first to succeed. For this, I grant you all my estate and possessions. May you enjoy good fortune.” With that, Snotra disappeared, never to be seen again. The farm was henceforth called Snotrunes in her memory.

Borgarfjörður eystri renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, vibrant birdlife, and rich folklore. Nestled between rugged mountains and the sea, this charming village is a paradise for hikers, with trails like Stórurð leading to striking glacial boulder formations and emerald-green valleys.

It’s also a prime spot for puffin watching at Hafnarhólmi, one of Iceland’s best bird-watching cliffs. The area brims with Icelandic legends, including stories of elves said to inhabit the mystical Álfaborg rock. Visitors can enjoy serene nature, local culture, and stunning views, making it a must-visit for adventurers and nature lovers alike.

Nes = headland

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 

In a small Icelandic village, there was a young boy who loved to play tricks and frighten a girl who lived nearby. He’d pop up unexpectedly, trying to make her jump. But over time, she became so used to his tricks that nothing he did could scare her anymore. Anything strange she encountered, she dismissed as one of his pranks.

One day, the girl was sent to the churchyard by her mother to fetch linen hung there to dry. As she worked, she noticed a figure sitting on a tombstone, dressed in all white. Instantly, she thought it was the boy up to his usual tricks, so she marched up, grabbed the figure’s white cap, and declared she wouldn’t be scared this time. With a smug grin, she returned home with the cap in her basket.

But when she arrived home, the boy was already at the house, greeting her with a puzzled look. Confused and unnerved, she sorted through the linen and found the cap she had taken from the figure. It was damp with mold and smelled of earth. Realizing the figure hadn’t been the boy, the family understood the girl had encountered a ghost. Fear swept through the village.

The next day, the ghost reappeared on the same tombstone, this time without its white cap. No one dared approach it, fearing the consequences. Desperate, the villagers called for an old man from a neighboring village known for his wisdom. He advised that the cap had to be returned to the ghost, in complete silence, by the girl who had taken it.

So the entire village gathered in the churchyard as the girl nervously approached the ghost, cap in hand. She placed it back on its head and asked if it was satisfied. The ghost looked up, a cold gaze in its eyes, and replied, “Yes, but are *you* now satisfied?” It then raised a hand, struck her, and she fell dead on the spot. Without another word, the ghost sank into the grave, disappearing forever.

While you might think that this story might make Icelander’s afraid of going to graveyards because they could encounter a ghost, this doesn’t seem to be the case. In fact, in the days leading up to Christmas and especially on December 24th, Icelanders can be seen in graveyards decorating the graves of their loved ones with candles and decorative lights.

If a group of them go, they tell fond stories of the loved one that they are there to honor. I find it sweet and interesting because you can see the graveyards lit up from a distance.

Kirkjugarður – graveyard

Literally translates to church garden.

Kirkja – church

Garður – garden

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Experiencing *Into the Glacier* in Iceland was like stepping into a different world—a frozen wonderland hidden deep within Langjökull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier. It was truly mesmerizing to see the glacier from the inside, which made me feel like I was in the heart of an enormous frozen giant.

When it comes to those wondering about safety, the *Into the Glacier* experience is indeed safe. The ice tunnels were engineered with extreme care, taking into account both glacial shifts and temperature stability.

The tour operators maintain the tunnels regularly, and visitors are provided with the necessary equipment, like crampons, to safely walk on ice. Additionally, experienced guides accompany each group, ensuring that everyone is informed about safety measures while they explore this icy wonderland.

The journey to reach this icy marvel began with an exciting ride in a massive truck, custom-built for navigating the rugged, icy terrain. This monster vehicle rumbled up the glacier for nearly an hour and a half, offering glimpses of the snow-covered landscape as we climbed higher. When we arrived, the true adventure began as we stepped into a small tent that led directly into the glacier’s inner sanctum.

Once inside, we were handed crampons, which are ice chains for your shoes, to safely walk on the icy surface. The temperature in the tunnels is a steady 32°F (0°C), so dressing warmly is essential. Moving through the tunnels, I was in awe of the surreal, radiant blue ice.

Being surrounded by walls of ice, created by a unique mix of nature and engineering, felt like discovering a secret known only to scientists and glaciologists—until now. The massive tunnel system, stretching through Langjökull, is an extraordinary feat that brings people right into the core of a glacier, something I had only dreamed of seeing.

There are several ice chambers that we visit, like the Chapel. People have actually gotten married in this chapel, which is pretty cool. I enjoyed exploring this icy wonderland and I think it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to be this deep inside of a glacier and it is stable. I learned so many cool things during this experience, including the facts below.

I went on the “Into the Glacier” adventure with Arctic Adventures. If you use my code iceland10 with them for this trip and other experiences, you can save 10% on the cost of the tour.

Among the many things I learned on this adventure, one stood out that surprised me the most. For the longest time, I knew that a glacier is an accumulation of enough snow that transforms into ice. Over time, that build up can be quite substantial. However, the key thing that I either don’t remember hearing or never knew is that in order for this accumulation to qualify as a glacier, it must flow outwards and downwards due to the pressure of its own weight. We drove by the now former glacier Ok, which still has some ice but there is not enough for it to move downhill under its own weight.

Langjökull – long glacier

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland

Once upon a time, a farmer named Bjarni lived in Skaftafell. He was known for his skilled craftsmanship and resourcefulness. High in a cave above the Skaftafell Woods, there lived a troll-woman who had become a loyal friend to Bjarni. She watched over his sheep in the mountains and guarded his driftwood along the shore.

One harsh winter, the troll-woman visited Bjarni with troubling news: a ship had wrecked on the coast, leaving only one survivor. But this wasn’t any ordinary man—it was a wild, dangerous brute, and she feared he would bring ruin to all of southern Iceland if left unchecked. Without hesitation, she took up an axe and accompanied Bjarni down to the shore, where she bravely fought the savage and defeated him.

Generations passed, but the troll-woman stayed connected to Bjarni’s family, protecting them as she had him. To this day, people say her cave still stands above Skaftafell, with a skylight in its roof and a bed carved right into the stone—a bed so large it could only have belonged to a troll. And they say Bjarni, ever thoughtful, crafted the cave’s door and its sturdy fittings to make it a cozy home for his unusual friend.

Years later, another man named Einar lived in Skaftafell. He, too, knew of a troll-woman. Once, while traveling through thick fog, he suspected the mist was no natural haze. Feeling uneasy, Einar took his axe and threw it far. Instantly, the fog lifted, and he was able to make his way home. But just as he arrived, one of his horses collapsed, and Einar found his axe lying on his doorstep—this time covered in blood.

The following year, Einar was setting off to cross the Skeidará river when he met a towering woman. She asked if she could borrow one of his horses to cross the water. At first, he hesitated, remembering how one of his horses had been strained the year before. But then, the woman explained it had been because of a prank he’d pulled. She showed him a scar where his axe had struck her, revealing that she was the one who had lifted the fog.

Einar believed her, and they crossed the river safely. During this crossing, the troll woman teased Einar a bit, which he did not take well. To get revenge, he went home and made a cooper gun. After tracking her down, the troll woman apologized for teasing him and they were on good terms again.

After that she vowed to do what he wished and his only ask of her was to not let anyone steal his driftwood. And so, the legend of the troll-woman and her friendship with the people of Skaftafell endures to this day, her protective spirit woven into the landscape and the lore of Iceland.

Skaftafell is a stunning nature reserve inside of Vatnajökull National Park. In that area, you can hike to the Svartifoss waterfall or go on a glacier hike/ice climbing adventure. There are many hiking paths in this area and I highly recommend checking it out. During winter, there are ice cave tours avaiable on the glaciers too. If you plan to take a glacier hike here, feel free to use my code Iceland10 with Arctic Adventures to save 10%.

goðsögn – legend

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Eyþór is an Icelandic antiquarian with an impressive rare book collection. For many years, he has been collecting and restoring rare books, some of which are important original Icelandic manuscripts. We sat down to chat about his collection and so much more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkKR4qoW67A

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 

According to Icelandic legend, the stunning horseshoe-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi was formed by the mighty hoofprint of Sleipnir, Odin’s legendary eight-legged steed. As the Norse god rode across the sky on his powerful horse, Sleipnir took an extraordinary leap, imprinting his hoof on Earth and leaving behind the shape of Ásbyrgi Canyon. This tale weaves Ásbyrgi into the fabric of Norse mythology, offering a mystical origin story that resonates deeply with Iceland’s cultural heritage.

Beyond natural explanations, folklore suggests that Ásbyrgi served as a sacred gathering site for Iceland’s hidden folk, or Huldufólk. Often referred to as “Álfakirkja” or the Elfin Church, the canyon is said to be a place where elves and other mystical beings held their celebrations and gatherings. This enchanting narrative adds a supernatural charm to Ásbyrgi, further heightening its allure as a place where nature and folklore intertwine.

The initial carving (8-10 Million Years Ago) of Ásbyrgi  began eight to ten million years ago, during a time of dramatic glacial floods from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river. Likely triggered by a volcanic eruption beneath Iceland’s massive Vatnajökull glacier, these catastrophic floods began carving the canyon shortly after the last Ice Age, setting the stage for its iconic horseshoe shape.

 About 3000 years ago, further glacial floods from Jökulsá á Fjöllum once again surged through the canyon, deepening and refining its form. This powerful combination of volcanic and glacial forces crafted Ásbyrgi’s unique shape, etching a story of geological transformation that spans millions of years.

Ásbyrgi –  the Shelter of the Gods

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 

Once upon a time, there was an old man and his wife who lived in a small cottage with their son. They weren’t particularly fond of him, but they had little else in their life besides a single cow, Búkolla, who was their most prized possession.

One day, Búkolla gave birth to a calf, and after helping with the birth, the old woman stepped away for a moment. When she returned, Búkolla was gone! The couple searched high and low but couldn’t find her anywhere. Furious, they ordered their son to find the cow and told him not to come back without her.

Off he went, into the unknown, armed with only some food and new shoes. As he walked, he grew tired and sat down to eat. “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re out there,” he called out. Far in the distance, he heard a faint bellow.

Encouraged, the boy walked further. After some time, he stopped again, calling, “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re alive.” The bellow was louder, closer.

Finally, he climbed to the top of some tall rocks, sat down once more, and called out, “Bellow now, my Búkolla!” This time, he heard her right beneath him. Climbing down, he found a cave where Búkolla was chained. He freed her and began the journey home.

But before long, he noticed something terrifying—a giant troll and a smaller one chasing after him!

The boy panicked, realizing the troll’s long strides would soon catch up. “What do we do, Búkolla?” he asked.

“Pull a hair from my tail and drop it on the ground,” Búkolla replied. He did as she said, and Búkolla spoke to the hair:

“Become a river so wide that only a bird can cross it.”
Immediately, a massive river appeared between them and the trolls. The larger troll, undeterred, ordered the smaller one, “Go fetch my father’s giant bull!”

The smaller troll rushed off and returned with a huge bull, which drank up the entire river in a single gulp.

The boy’s heart raced as the trolls closed in. “What now, Búkolla?”

“Take another hair and drop it,” she said. Once he did, she proclaimed, “Become a flame so high that even a bird cannot fly over it!”

A wall of fire erupted before them. But the trolls were persistent. The larger troll commanded, “Fetch my father’s bull again!” The smaller troll fetched the bull, which spat all the water it had drunk from the river onto the flames, extinguishing them.

Once again, the boy asked, “What do we do, Búkolla?”

“Take one more hair and drop it,” Búkolla instructed. “Now, become a mountain so tall that nothing but a bird can cross it.”

Before their eyes, a towering mountain shot up. The giant troll, furious but determined, sent the smaller troll to fetch her father’s bore-iron. With the iron, the troll drilled through the mountain.

But she was so eager to squeeze through the narrow hole she had made that she got stuck. And there she remains, turned to stone, unable to pursue them any further.

The boy finally returned home with Búkolla, and for the first time, his parents were genuinely happy to see him. Their cow was safe, and all was well again.

There are many children’s books about Búkolla in Iceland. During Jónsmessa or Midsummer Night, cows gain the ability to speak among other strange things that happen that night. It is interesting how cows having the abiliy to talk comes up in Icelandic folklore.

Kýr – cow

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 

Legend has it that Dimmuborgir, with its eerie rock formations and twisting lava fields, is more than just a natural wonder. Some say it’s a hidden gateway to a mysterious, parallel world – a realm where Iceland’s most elusive creatures reside.

Elves, trolls, and other mythical beings are said to call this shadowy place home, slipping in and out of our world through secret passages among the towering rocks.

In other tales, especially in Nordic Christian lore, Dimmuborgir takes on an even darker role. It’s believed to be the very spot where Satan crashed to Earth after being cast out of Heaven. From there, he is said to have forged the catacombs of Hell, using the strange landscape as his foundation.

For those who visit Dimmuborgir today, the air still hums with the legends of this supernatural past, making it feel as if you’re standing on the edge of another world.

It is estimated that Dimmuborgir was created about 2,300 years ago after a huge volcanic eruption. It‘s a beautiful and sort of eery place. In North Iceland and can be part of your Diamond Circle route.

I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Dimmuborgir translates to “dark castles” or “dark cities.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.