Swell Season Surf

Steven Bedford Brown is as local as you can get in the Hampton Bays area.

He started surfing around twelve years old, riding over the Ponquogue bridge year round with a few buddies. He grew up in a rigid pecking order that taught grommets respect and to protect their local spots. He’s taken the mantle as an elder in the lineup but times have changed and the once rigid pecking order has devolved into a bit of a free for all with the huge influx of new surfers and a litigious society where just burning a kook can get you in trouble with the law. Tyler sat down with Bedford to discuss the changing lineups, and positive ways to help return some order to the surf. Methods that reflect on a bygone era but also look to the future and how surfing can change for the positive. Sit back and enjoy a fun conversation between two crusty surfers.

Tyler travels to Spanish Basque country and sits and eats with creative director Sancho Rodriguez. Sancho founded the San Sebastián Surf Film Festival and has just opened a public library collection dedicated to surf.

Filmmaker Chris Gentile, owner of Pilgrim Surf & Supply, discusses his upcoming project, "Self Discovery for Social Survival.” The film was a joint venture with music label Mexican Summer and paired musicians with surfers as they explored Mexico, the Maldives and Iceland. Surfers include 7x World Champion Stephanie Gilmore, Creed McTaggart, Ryan Burch and more. The musicians and pro-surfers embark on a journey that combines a symbiotic relationship between music and the waves, the environment, and local culture. Chris dives into the meaning of the title and the work and inspiration behind this unique surf film. "Self Discovery for Social Survival" is touring now. The soundtrack is available in both vinyl and digital. Go to https://www.sdssfilm.com to find out more when it will screen in your neck of the woods.

In 2011, Tyler sat down with Jamie Brisick, writer, former editor of Surfing Magazine, former pro surfer and one of surfing's great storytellers. We recorded in front of a live audience at the legendary Anthology Film Archives in the East Village, NYC. The conversation was led by images from Jamie's past that represent pivotal moments in his life up until then. From being bright eyed and optimistic as a pro surfer to the realization that he needed to transition into his next phase, which eventually became writing. Jamie delivers classic tales and folklore of surfing's rich history. This is not the definitive Brisick story. Just a glimpse into a fascinating life. Jamie's words and surfing will be featured in the forthcoming Pilgrim x Mexican Summer film "Self Discovery for Social Survival". His latest book is "Becoming Westerly" and has garnered rave reviews and praise. We hope you enjoy another episode from the "Swell Season Surf Archive." http://jamiebrisick.com/archives

Artist: Silver Jews Song: Random Rule Album: American Water 1998

Photographer Chris St. Lawrence had just started his career in surf photography when he heard that waves can get a little big in a small town in Portugal. That was enough for him to jump on a plane to Nazaré and set up his lens among the pro pool of photographers to watch giants detonate. His scenes of winter surf back home earned Chris two awards at the 2019 Clifbar Cold Shot challenge. He recounts shooting sea smoke at dawn while his fingers froze and living through his dad's indictment and incarceration.

Photo credit: Jay Belsky

Music credit: Gape by Mafikazolo

Long Island native Chris Blotiau grew up surrounded by educators. When he graduated college with his own degree in teaching, Chris turned his attention to surf education, which he believes is still underdeveloped. We chat about his Surf Continuum program, a fundamentals focused approach to learning that even lifelong surfers will benefit from, and why he never pushes a student into a wave. Chris shares with us some insight from speaking with legends on his own podcast Kookcast and such topics like why wearing a leash holds us back.

Music credit:

Mutabarunka "Dispel the Lie"

Montauk native Pat Falon of Whalebone Magazine MCs a raucus award ceremony for best winter surf photography shot from Maine to Outer Banks. Jurists and master lensmen Mike Nelson and Taylor Steele handout awards in categories of empty wave and surfer. Contestants drove from up and down the Eastern Seaboard to attend and the winners had stories to tell. Big Wave surfer Will Skudin of NYsea helped power things along.

From January to April photographers from Maine to OBX and across to the Great Lakes braved the elements to shoot the best image of winter surf in order to compete in the Clifbar Cold Shot Challenge 3.0. Last week at a gallery on the Lower East Side. Clifbar and NYsea hosted an exhibition of the finalists photos smartly printed and framed. Awards were bestowed to top empty wave and surfer categories. We spoke with jurists Emmy Award winner and filmmaker legend Taylor Steele and NY Surf Photo Giant Mike Nelson, one grom lensman contestant Laird French who drove down from R.I. for the show. Organizer Will Yandell of Clifbar and Rockaway shaper Joe "Clams" Falcone weighed in as well. Johnny Knapp co-hosted along with Ben.

The Valpo Surf Project support education, language development, and good old fashion confidence building while surfing for the young people of Valparaíso, Chile. Co-Founder Jon Steuber conceived of the project while on his college semester abroad visiting the beautiful port city that poet Pablo Neruda called home. Ten years later Jon and a team of staff and volunteers have build a highly effective education and risk intervention program which works with hundreds of kids a year.

Johnny Borbone shapes boards sourced from his background in robotic engineering and Formula 1 stock car racing. The Belmar, NJ shaper dances on the edge of art and science as he applies his expertise in fluid dynamics with love of the long board. We talk about vanguard designs like his reactive flex rail inspired by a Horatio Pagani sports car. Johnny also challenges how the industry rates and understands board performance, responding with his own scientific methods to test and design an optimal glider. He also shares with us the crash at a Slope Side snowboard comp which nearly killed him.