The Climbing Advocate

On this month’s episode, we are joined by Quinn Brett and Sam Sala. Quinn is an adaptive athlete and prominent voice in the adaptive space. As an avid recreationist, she provides her view on how outdoor accessibility can be improved in our national parks and other outdoor spaces.

Sam is an instructor at Paradox Sports where he works with Quinn and other adaptive climbers. Across his tenure, he has gained a first-hand appreciation for how improved accessibility enriches the outdoor experiences for adaptive athletes. The pair discuss some of the barriers, challenges, and successes that they have seen in the adaptive world and what they hope to see in the future. We hope this brings you a better perspective on accessibility in the outdoors, adaptive climbing, and inclusivity for adaptive athletes.

5:48- Quinn and Sam’s climbing histories

10:12- Accessible terminology 101

13:47- What Quinn noticed was missing in accessibility in the outdoors

20:38- Sam’s beginnings with adaptive athletes

26:12- Successes/progress they have seen over the years

33:26- A universal trail in national parks & meshing with Wilderness areas

38:27- Great American Outdoors Act & funding accessible infrastructure

41:26- Quinn is still doing cool sh*t

46:14- How to support adaptive athletes

52:42- Trail etiquette

54:12- Adaptive climbing technology

Quinn’s Instagram: @quinndolina

Sam's Instagram: @fearthenbeer

Paradox Sports: https://www.paradoxsports.org/

A Climb for Greater Accessibility: https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/a-climb-for-greater-accessibility

Our guest for April’s episode is alpinist and climate activist Molly Kawahata. You may recognize her name from The Scale of Hope, a Patagonia-sponsored film that came out last November. Leading up to the release of that film, Molly was becoming a household name in the climate movement. Pulling on human psychology and neuroscience, her approach to communicating climate action is arguably unprecedented, as she moves to make it more relatable to the everyday person.

Molly’s experience as a climate advisor at the White House during the Obama administration spring boarded her into the path that she is currently on, and she hasn’t slowed down. A combination of working tirelessly as a climate advocate, Alaskan alpine climbing, and a long bout with a mental health disorder has brought her to where she is now. Tune in to hear more from Molly about how these experiences made her a fixture in the climate movement.

12:05- Patagonia's Film, The Scale of Hope

24:29- Molly's openness about her Bipolar 2 Disorder

37:50- Working at the White House

47:09- Reframing climate change communication

51:53- The science of hope

55:24- Changing the narrative towards public health

1:03:16- The Inflation Reduction Act & systemic change

1:07:02- Climate mitigation vs. adaptation

1:16:10- Molly's career & closing remarks

Molly’s Instagram: @mollykawahata

Scale of Hope film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrmKoU2Oe5I

Environmental Voter Project: https://www.environmentalvoter.org/

This month marks the 50th episode of the Climbing Advocate podcast! Chris Sharma, our guest for this special episode, needs little introduction as one of the most prolific and influential climbers of our time. His contribution to the climbing community extends from the crag to the boulder field to the gym with his new indoor climbing ventures. After nearly 30 years of climbing, Chris’s psych is as high as it’s ever been and his continued commitment to the climbing community is truly special.

Sharma has lived and climbed in Spain for 15 years and had a great perspective to share on the differences between Spain and the US in terms of land management, climber presence, and overall advocacy. Sharma is particularly passionate about fixed anchor replacement—as a route developer himself, he’s dedicated to making sure no one gets hurt on one of his routes and to educating other climbers on best practices for developing new routes and updated fixed hardware on existing routes.

Tune in to hear more from Chris as him and Peter celebrate 50 episodes of the Climbing Advocate Podcast!

5:10- Chris’ time in Boulder

12:07- Leaving a legacy

15:21- Influence of The Climb

20:05- Chris’ early days of climbing

26:23- Climbing ambassadorship

29:34- Noteables between the U.S. and Spain

41:08- Land management in Spain

51:22- Stewardship and access in Spain

55:20- What Chris is most passionate about

59:17- Other athletes in the advocacy realm

1:01:29- “...For the next generation”

On today’s episode we head south with Elaine Elliott. Elaine is one of the founders and writers of Steep South, a climbing media company. Elaine aspired to find a way to share the rock climbing treasures of the Southeast while also blending in themes of conservation and advocacy. With her history in writing, she found a sweet spot, linking up with local filmmakers in Chattanooga to produce two beautiful climbing films that share conservation success stories from Tennessee and North Carolina.

These films bring conservation to life and paint a picture on how much work goes into the success of these kinds of projects. Conservation is a delicate balancing act, and climbers prove time and time again that they have the skills and know how to complete these projects.

Elaine and her team at Steep South provide an amazing and unique resource to learn more about climbing conservation, so tune in to learn more and be sure to check out the Filling the Void series on YouTube.

3:38- Elaine’s intro

10:59- The origins of Steep South

20:49- What’s required to make a film

27:55- Where the “Filling the Void” title came from

31:05- Themes of the films

38:22- Takeaways from making the films

42:17- Raising money for conservation

45:52- Filling the Void Chapter 1: Denny Cove

53:39- Filling the Void Chapter 2: Rumbling Bald

1:01:25- Broadening the regional perspective of Steep South

1:03:25- Filmmaking’s impact on climbing advocacy

Steep South’s Instagram: @steepsouth

Filling the Void Chapter 1- Denny Cove: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QKytNP0fFU&t=1174s

Filling the Void Chapter 2- Rumbling Bald: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XA11e5CvV4E

This month we head to the Midwest to hear from Raud Kashef and Adam Brummett of the Iowa Climbers Coalition. You read that right, Iowa. No time was wasted as Peter, Raud, and Adam dove right into what makes them so passionate about climbing in a state that many might write off as not having any climbing at all. Raud and Adam prove this theory wrong and talk extensively about the great climbing opportunities in the Hawkeye State.

Much of the conversation focused on the ins and outs of a major trail project that they completed at Pictured Rocks County Park with the assistance of one of Access Fund’s Conservation Teams. The project was a serious undertaking and the Iowa climbing community showed up strong each and every day. It was a clear demonstration of the Iowa climbers’ connection to place.

Tune in to hear more about what’s happening in Iowa and some of the history of the Iowa Climbers Coalition dating back to the early 90s!

3:13- Raud’s intro

11:27- Climbing in unsuspecting areas, like Iowa

17:00- Thinking “locally”

27:30- Dynamics with other user groups

34:12- History of the Iowa Climbers Coalition

39:42- Pictured Rocks County Park

48:45- Major trail project at Pictured Rocks

1:06:32- Approval process for the project

1:12:24- Lessons learned from the project

Iowa Climbers Coalition website: https://www.iowaclimberscoalition.org/

Iowa Climbers Coalition Instagram: @iowaclimbing

Access Fund article on the ICC and Pictured Rocks: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/pictured-rocks-climbing-community-rallies

Each year, Access Fund rallies dozens of exceptional climbing advocates from across the country and this year was no exception. Peter had the chance to catch up with two prominent advocates based in the southeast and discuss some of the things happening in their respective areas.

First up is Caleb Timmerman, marketing and outreach director with the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC). Caleb’s expertise goes beyond marketing and he has a great pulse on everything that’s happening with the SCC, including one area he and Peter discuss at length: Castle Rock. The story and protection of Castle Rock is quite unique and shows what can be accomplished when multiple parties work together to conserve climbing areas.

Next, Mike Reardon is the executive director of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC). In 2019, Mike became CCC’s first full-time executive director, but his history with the organization dates way back to 2010 when he first joined the board of directors. Mike has helped spearhead many conservation successes including the most recent acquisition of the Maibauer Boulders in North Carolina.

Caleb and Mike’s excitement for southeastern climbing is exemplary, so follow along as they give us a glimpse into their work and how they help make climbing happen in their local communities.

Caleb

6:28- Intro/banter

9:43- Recording on location: Castle Rock

11:55- Caleb’s intro

14:21- Caleb’s first day climbing post-injury

15:25- The protection of Castle Rock

24:57- Tennessee’s Outdoor Recreational Use Statute

26:04- SCC’s Acquisition Committee

26:46- SCC’s role at Castle Rock

31:28- Happenings in Alabama and Georgia

34:17- Most exciting part of hosting the conference in Chattanooga

Mike

35:56- Field trip to Denny Cove

37:33- Mike’s intro

42:01- Rocky Fork State Park

46:07- C4: Carolina Climbers Conservation Corps

50:42- Leaning on past successes

52:11- The influence of purchasing Laurel Knob

56:59- Maibauer Boulders acquisition

1:00:30- Climbing Conservation Loan Program

1:05:10- Most exciting part of the conference

Southeastern Climbers Coalition: https://www.seclimbers.org/

SCC’s Instagram page: @seclimbers

Carolina Climbers Coalition: https://carolinaclimbers.org/

CCC’s Instagram page: @carolinaclimberscoalition

Maibauer Boulders donation page: https://carolinaclimbers.org/maibauer

Plug Tone Audio: https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/

Plug Tone’s Instagram page: @plugtoneaudio

Though James Maples, who holds a doctorate in sociology, isn’t a climber himself, he’s still an integral member of the climbing community. As an associate professor at Eastern Kentucky University and director of the EKU Division for Regional Economic Assessment and Modeling, Maples focuses on Appalachian studies and economic impact research. This combination of interests was the impetus for James to conduct his first study in 2015 on the economic impact of climbing at Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Since, Maples has conducted multiple economic impact studies at the Red and elsewhere. He has also written numerous articles and a book on climbers and the regional economic impact of climbing at crags and boulder fields across the country.

Maples has a wealth of knowledge, which he shares generously in this conversation that touches on his book, the history of climbing advocacy in rural Appalachia, and his work to support the climbing community around the country.

4:38- Red River Gorge history preamble

12:49- James’ intro

16:50- James’ connection to Access Fund

21:23- James’ new book

34:04- Red River dam project proposal

38:21- Early advocacy days - Cumberland Climbers

47:15- 1994 bolting ban

56:28- Kentucky Heartwood lawsuit

59:20- The archaeological dig at the Military Wall

1:12:09- Economic impacts studies

1:25:36- Management actions from the economic studies

1:29:03- Potential downsides to tourism-based economies

1:34:42- Climber-specific Leave No Trace study

Rock Climbing in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge book: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/57691814-rock-climbing-in-kentucky-s-red-river-gorge

Economic Impact Study in the Red River Gorge YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxzmyFkY5hM

“Do Climbers Leave No Trace” YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTFXBlCz3V4&t=197s

James’ email: [email protected]

We’re not really sure how much free time training for the Olympics leaves you, but we’re pretty sure it’s not a whole lot. Which makes it all the more impressive that Kyra Condie’s resume boasts a number of climbing advocacy and inclusive access accomplishments, most notably as a member of the USA Climbing board of directors.

A climber and advocate from a young age, Kyra first learned about Access Fund and her local climbing organization, Minnesota Climbers Association, when she was on a youth climbing team in Minnesota. Inspired by the organizations’ missions to protect and steward climbing areas, Kyra found her advocacy passion in inclusive access to climbing, especially providing access to people who otherwise might not think they belong in the climbing community.

Follow along as Peter and Kyra discuss her upbringing in Minnesota, the Olympics, and what she is most passionate about in her board role with USA Climbing.

1:43- Kyra’s intro

3:31- Climbing in Minnesota

5:49- Aspirations to be a veterinarian

7:20- Prepping, qualifying and the structure of the Olympics

14:57- Kyra's beginnings in climbing advocacy

17:15- Advocacy in SLC

21:23- Climbing festivals influence on advocacy

30:51- Sentiment among Kyra's peers on advocacy

32:29- Board role with USA Climbing

39:51- Final thoughts

Kyra’s Instagram: @kyra_condie

Minnesota Climbers Association:https://www.mnclimbers.org/

USA Climbing: https://usaclimbing.org/

Home Crag video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2w77nWlPC8

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance’s “Save Little Cottonwood Canyon”: https://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/lcc-udot-eis

On today’s episode, we’re joined by Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing and Josie McKee of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. Together with these Lander locals, we discuss what it means to be a better climber. Being a better climber goes beyond improving at climbing and includes our social and environmental impacts. Kris and Josie offer their thoughts on what they have learned from other climbers that Kris has spoken with on his podcast and how Josie has addressed these on an organizational level.

Josie also dives into her role as executive director of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. We talk through the organization’s mission and its latest projects, including opportunities for youth to climb the Grand Teton and tackling controversial route names in the Lander area.

Tune in to hear more of this lively discussion with Kris and Josie about being better climbers and local Lander happenings.

5:23- Kris’ intro

14:16- Josie’s intro

21:22- Founding of Power Company Climbing

30:19- WyoClimbers support for underserved communities

33:43- Working with the local guide service in Lander

35:22- Kris’ biggest lessons from podcasting

40:06- Takeaways from our mutual podcast guests

43:16- Josie’s opportunities to discuss these matters

46:46- The power of words

52:13- Route naming and other harmful words

1:03:30- Are Kris and Josie hopeful for the future?

1:05:53- The Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance/WyoClimbers

1:11:53- The BARF- Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund

1:16:04- How climbers can stay engaged in advocacy

Kris’ Instagram: @powercompanyclimbing

Power Company Climbing: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/

Josie’s Instagram:@josie_mckee_

Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance: http://www.wyomingclimbers.org/

International Climbers Festival: https://www.climbersfestival.org/

This month, we're joined by Access Fund Southeast Regional Manager Daniel Dunn. Daniel has a unique perspective to share, thanks to his work with the Boulder Climbing Community and Front Range Climbing Stewards. We discuss his new role with Access Fund and his dedication to stewardship.

Now working regionally, Daniel collaborates with local climbing organizations, land managers, and other partners to advocate for climbing in the Southeast. We discuss what it takes to run a successful stewardship and anchor replacement program, climbing access and management differences in the Eastern and Western United States, opportunities for climbing conservation in the Southeast, and some of the major projects on his plate.

Listen in to hear more about Daniel’s career in stewardship and the latest happenings in the Southeast.

5:28 - Daniel’s intro

12:20 - Stewardship beginnings

20:13 - Anchor Replacement Program

28:27 - Retrofitting climbing areas

34:18 - What makes a successful stewardship program

39:04 - Agreements with land managers

41:17 - Southeast Regional Manager

47:45 - Rural climbing opportunities in Appalachia

52:34 - Climbing management in the eastern and western U.S.

57:31 - New acquisition in North Carolina

1:00:31 - Climbing Conservation Loan Program

1:02:38 - Other conservation opportunities in the Southeast

1:05:52 - Access Fund’s 2022 Annual Conference

Annual Conference details and registration: https://www.accessfund.org/pages/advocacy-conference-2022

Boulder Climbing Community: https://www.boulderclimbers.org/

Front Range Climbing Stewards: https://www.boulderclimbers.org/trails

Carolina Climbers Coalition: https://carolinaclimbers.org/

The Maibauer Boulders acquisition: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-buy-new-boulder-field-in-north-carolina