The Climbing Advocate

In this episode, we learn from Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Skye Kolealani, creators of the new Indigenous Field Guide. Over the course of 2021, Briana and Skye created an exceptional resource. The guide provides high-level guidance for preventing damage of cultural resources and tips for how to amplify and integrate Indigenous values regarding cultural land resources. The Field Guide received widespread praise as individuals and organizations signed on to implement these practices into their mission and operations.

Briana and Skye cite specific examples of when cultural resources were disrespected or in jeopardy. They conclude that all of us should know where, and more importantly, how we are recreating. Different places call for different practices. That’s the purpose of the Indigenous Field Guide, to provide the necessary information needed to ensure the longevity of these culturally important lands and resources. You can commit to these values by signing their pledge at https://www.indigenousfieldguide.com/pledge.

6:19 - Briana’s intro

10:21 - Skye’s intro

17:59 - Collaborating with other Hawaiian LCOs

22:42 - The Indigenous Field Guide (IDG)

57:27 - “Fake” petroglyphs

1:08:24 - The Indigenous Field Guide’s Pledge

1:20:11 - Access Fund’s support for the IDG

1:24:10 - Other organizational support for the IDG

1:30:27 - Different recreational approaches in different places

1:33:57 - Next steps and goals for the IDG

Indigenous Field Guide website: https://www.indigenousfieldguide.com/

Indigenous Field Guide Instagram: @indigenousfieldguide

Kanaka Climbers website: https://www.kanakaclimbers.com/

Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: https://rrgcc.org/

We’re heading east on this month’s episode to interview three advocates, each representing a local climbing organization in Pennsylvania: Kate Fetterolf with Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers, Ryan Shipp with South Central Pennsylvania Climbers, and Joel Brady with Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition. Kate, Ryan, and Joel shared their perspective on what’s happening in their respective region of the state and also weren’t shy boasting about how great the climbing is in Pennsylvania.

Pennsylvania is rich with a wide variety of climbing opportunities. Perhaps it's mostly known for its world-class bouldering but opportunities abound to sport and trad climb as well. Each organization does a great job addressing needs and any issues in their area and have been incredibly supportive of each other. Whether it’s working through forming a new LCO, access, or closures, they can depend on each other to be a supporting network. Follow along to hear the latest on climbing advocacy in Pennsylvania.

6:20- Kate’s intro

8:30- Ryan’s intro

11:23- Joel’s intro

15:52- Kate & the Eastern PA Alliance of Climbers (EPAC)

22:34- Being in close proximity to major metro areas

29:59- Engaging with a diverse group of climbers

33:53- EPAC’s 2022 agenda

36:45- Aldo Leopold ethos

38:24- Ryan & the South Central PA Climbers (SCPC)

46:08- SCPC’s major areas and projects

58:27- SCPC’s ambassador program

1:00:54- JEDI resources

1:02:10- Joel & the Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition (SWPACC)

1:13:37- Working with the PA Gaming Commission

1:18:01- Partnering with indoor facilities

1:13:30- Recommendations for how other regional LCOs can collaborate

Eastern PA Alliance of Climbers: https://epaclimbers.org/

South Central PA Climbers: https://www.scpclimbers.org/

Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition: https://www.swpacc.org/

When you get right down to it, what we admire most about this month’s podcast guest, Dave Wiens, is his simple but deep passion for trails. Trails and trailwork connect just about everyone who likes outdoor recreation, from climbers to hikers to mountain bikers. Speaking of mountain biking, Wiens is also the executive director of the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) and founder of Gunnison, Colorado-based local advocacy group Gunnison Trails. Dave recognizes the importance and benefits of having access to trails for all recreational enthusiasts.

Dave and our host, Peter, get into Dave’s early days with Gunnison Trails and his current work with IMBA. They discuss IMBA’s aspiration to provide equitable access to trails through its “Close to Home” initiative and its support for the “Trails are Common Ground” initiative. Dave is a great storyteller, and his intimate knowledge of trail-based recreation provides many learning opportunities not just for climbers, but anyone who values access to trails.

4:37 - Dave’s intro & the Gunnison Valley

7:16 - Gunnison Trails & Hartman Rocks

17:01 - Gunnison Trails’ early projects

27:40 - Mountain biking & wildlife

31:41 - “System” trails

38:12 - IMBA & more local advocacy

45:38 - Dave’s start at IMBA

53:17 - IMBA’s mission

58:04 - IMBA bringing trail access “close to home”

1:06:37 - “Building” a climbing community

1:11:21 - Trails for Common Ground

1:23:54 - Climbers & Trails for Common Ground

1:26:06 - LCOs and IMBA’s local chapters

IMBA’s website: https://www.imba.com/

IMBA’s Instagram: @imba_us

IMBA’s “Close to Home” Initiative: https://www.imba.com/our-focus

Gunnison Trails website: https://gunnisontrails.org/

Gunnison Trails Instagram: @gunnisontrails

Trails Are Common Ground: https://trailsarecommonground.org/

Outdoor Alliance: https://www.outdooralliance.org/

The guest for today's episode is author and creative writer, Chris Kalman. A storyteller at heart, Chris’s writing has landed him in the pages of Outside and Climbing Magazine with stories that make you think about both sides of the climbing coin—the good and the bad. He’s also been featured on a number of audio productions too: Dirtbag Diaries, The Firn Line, and, of course, The Cutting Edge, where he plays host himself. Chris also co-authored the guidebook for Index, Washington and has authored two fictional climbing books that take the reader on a powerful emotional journey through the ups and downs of climbing.

Chris has a particular fondness for the Cochamo Valley in South America. The pristine granite walls there have earned it the nickname “Yosemite Valley of South America.” Cochamo has gained more well-deserved exposure in climbing media due its pristine nature and world class landscape, but with more notoriety and exposure comes increased impacts. But impacts also present an opportunity to drive stewardship efforts and inspire the protection of a place. Chris and Peter use Cochamo as an international example of the nexus between tourism and conservation and get into what Chris has done to help proactively manage impacts in Cochamo, while also keeping it available for people to climb on its stunning granite walls.

6:36 - Intro to Chris

12:57 - Authoring the Index guidebook

14:46 - The best worst trad climbing in the U.S.

18:24 - Experience working for the National Park Service

26:46 - “It’s Time to Rethink Climbing on Devils Tower”

40:53 - Chris as an author

47:03 - “Dammed if You Don’t”

1:01:07 - “We Haven’t Messed It Up Yet”

1:06:25 - Preservation vs. conservation

1:07:47 - Friends of Cochamo

1:14:47 - Where you can find some of Chris’ other work

Chris’ website: http://www.chriskalman.com/

Chris’ Instagram: @chriswritekalman

The Best Worst Trad Climbing in the U.S.: https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/lumpy-ridge-the-best-worst-trad-climbing-in-the-united-states

Devils Tower article: https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/why-its-time-rethink-climbing-ban-devils-tower/

NPS info on the Devils Tower closure: https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/currentclimbingclosures.htm

Climbers- Honor the June Closure at Devils Tower: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-honor-the-june-closure-at-devils-tower

Patagonia Cochamo article: https://www.patagonia.com/stories/coming-to-bat-for-cochamo/story-71772.html

As Above, So Below: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/as-above-so-below

Dammed If You Don’t: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/uf64nh7hgb6gurd3mtkwkdagckky5a

Lace up your ice boots for a trip up north to hear from Valdez Adventure Alliance (VAA). Based in southeastern Alaska, the organization has accomplished some amazing things with just two people on staff. On this month’s episode, Lanette Oliver and Michelle LeBlanc, executive director and chief financial officer respectively, passionately describe how values of community and connection manifest in an organization that weaves together outdoor programs, stewardship, and major events like the Valdez Ice Festival.

With the Chugach Range in their backyard, VAA is focused on bringing people into the outdoors who will not only appreciate it, but need it. We discuss their proudest stewardship accomplishments, the challenges of operating with a small staff, and how they keep their focus on getting underserved and underrepresented communities out into the incredible natural landscapes that the 49th state has to offer.

5:17- Lanette’s intro

10:07- Michelle’s intro

12:59- Alaska rock climbing

16:09-Valdez Adventure Alliance

20:53- VAA’s programming

30:34- The “barrier” of being better than the best

33:02- Coordinating among the staff, board and advisory council

38:40- VAA’s stewardship efforts

44:45- “Ice stewardship”

55:54- Valdez Ice Festival

1:01:57- Fat Bike Bash

1:03:04- The VAA’s podcast

1:07:53- Defining “ice stewardship”

Valdez Adventure Alliance: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/

Valdez Ice Festival: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/ice-fest

Valdez Fat Bike Bash: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/fat

Valdez Adventure Alliance Instagram: @valdezadventureallianceinfo

Mixtress YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oFqJ98mTlU

In fall of 2021, Access Fund started the new Climber Steward program in Indian Creek. On this month’s podcast, Peter sits down with Lauren Hebert and Johanna Cogen, the inaugural Climber Stewards. They posted up in the Creek during peak season this fall to share information and resources on how to minimize impact and enjoy climbing resources responsibly—especially important in the fragile desert ecosystem.

With the lure of free coffee, Lauren and Johanna engaged with hundreds of new and seasoned Indian Creek climbers alike to educate them on pressing issues specific to Indian Creek such as dispersed camping, human and dog waste, and respecting sensitive cultural resources. Tune in to hear their reflections on the first season of the Climber Steward program and what kind of impact it will have on climbers and other visitors.

5:52- Lauren and Johanna’s intros

10:38- The Climber Steward position

17:25- Prior conservation and education experience

21:22- Indian Creek stakeholders

23:19- Influence of native values

26:52- Climbers’ relationship with ranchers

29:34- Conversations with the Climber Stewards

36:19- Jeopardy!

39:16- Stewardship season and locations

42:21- Data collection as a goal for the future

43:57- Crag chats

46:22- Other Climber Steward responsibilities

49:16- Personal experiences in Indian Creek

53:45- Reflections on the first Climber Steward season

57:07- Lauren and Johanna’s definition of advocacy

Climber Steward program: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/access-fund-to-deploy-climber-stewards-at-indian-creek

Access Fund’s Vertical Times: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/newsletter

The guest for today’s episode is writer, podcaster, and perhaps most notably, the creator of the Climbing Zine, Luke Mehall. Originally hailing from the midwest, Luke was first exposed to climbing in Southern Illinois and at first, he didn’t really take to it. Through the trials and tribulations of being a young adult, Luke truly found his way when he moved to Gunnison, Colorado and began putting pen to paper—and climbing a lot more.

Luke’s pursuits have led him to become a prominent figure in the climbing community. Whether it’s the Climbing Zine, his books, his podcast, his first ascents, or the newly formed Durango Climbers Coalition, his advocacy and love for the sport is exemplary.

Follow along as Luke walks us through some of his early influences, lessons he’s taken from the Zine, Indian Creek, and much more.

5:23- Banter

9:26- Luke’s early influences

13:38- Luke’s intro to climbing

18:21- The evolution of Luke’s writing

24:04- Print media

30:48- Lessons learned from Zine authors

37:27- Indian Creek: not love at first sight

48:18- Changes over the years in Indian Creek

53:56- Rock climbing and native values

58:20- The Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast

1:03:51- Durango Climbers Coalition

1:13:38- Luke’s definition of advocacy

Luke’s Instagram: @lukemehall_writer

Climbing Zine’s Instagram: @theclimbingzine

Climbing Zine website: https://climbingzine.com/

Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast: https://climbingzine.com/dirtbag-state-of-mind-podcast/

Durango Climbers Coalition: https://www.facebook.com/DurangoClimbersCoalition/

Our guest for today’s episode is Felipe Proaño. Felipe is a professional climber based in Quito, Ecuador and is the founder and former president of Fondo de Acceso Andino — the equivalent of Access Fund in Ecuador. Fondo de Acceso Andino is a community-focused organization that works with members of rural communities in Ecuador to discuss opportunities for climbing development and how it can support the community and its people.

Felipe has led collaborative efforts to help diversify these communities’ economies to include tourism and has found ways to ensure that climbing development can benefit everyone. He is dedicated to showing just how impactful climbing can be in helping to alleviate the challenges rural communities face and providing resources that they might lack.

Follow along as Felipe shares some of the trials, tribulations and success stories in advocating for a sustainable future for climbing in Ecuador.

5:29- Banter

7:20- Felipe’s intro

13:00- Columns of Tangan & the E35 Area

16:33- Advocacy in Ecuador

20:06- The Towers of Simiatug

27:07- The health and economic challenges in rural communities

32:41- Reinvesting capital in the communities

35:00- Finding a leadership role

42:39- Land management in Ecuador

53:11- Felipe's favorite place to climb in the U.S.

57:44- Fondo de Acceso Andino

1:05:20- Promoting climbing & guidebooking

1:10:47- Similarities in access & advocacy

1:16:36- Felipe's definition of advocacy

Felipe’s Instagram: @feli.proclimer

Felipe’s website: https://www.feli-pro.com/

Fondo de Acceso Andino: http://fondoaccesoandino.org

2020 Climbing Advocacy Conference Workshop: https://accessfund-workshops.secure-platform.com/a/organizations/main/home

Our guest for today’s episode is Kendra Stritch. Kendra is a competitive ice climber and serves as the board president of the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA). Minnesota has a lot to offer in terms of climbing, whether it’s rock or ice. As an LCO working on a state-wide level, the MCA works with local Minnesota-based climbing organizations and land managers to help ensure these special Midwestern gems are properly cared for.

Aside from running the MCA and her personal climbing accomplishments, Kendra is very motivated to pursue other sports and activities and is always up for a new challenge. Kendra has taken a lot of inspiration from the folks she has met while traveling the world for ice climbing competitions and brings that inspiration back to her clinics and advocacy for climbing in Minnesota. The MCA has made a tremendous impact on Minnesota climbing over the years and Kendra discusses a few of the projects of which she is particularly proud.

3:55- Adventure racing

6:45- Log rolling!

10:12- Life strategies

12:28- Kendra’s intro and climbing history

22:49- UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Tour

27:18- Drawing inspiration from local and international climbing communities

32:32- Teaching advocacy in her clinics

34:35- Being an ASC Microplastic Sample Collector

37:13- Minnesota climbing

42:40- Sandstone Ice Park

46:00- Minnesota Climbers Association

48:52- Impetus for forming the MCA

53:50- Challenges and opportunities for being a state-level climbing organization

57:28- Working with state land managers

1:01:42- Collaboration with other Midwestern LCOs

1:03:38- 2019 Midwest Climbing Advocacy Summit

1:07:29- Kendra’s favorite successes

1:14:04- Kendra’s definition of advocacy

Minnesota Climbers Association: https://www.mnclimbers.org/

MCA’s Instagram: @mnclimbersassociation

Kendra’s Instagram: @kendrastritch

Sandstone Ice Park: https://sandstoneicefest.com/index.php/ice-park-access/

Our guest for today’s episode is Jon Hawk. Jon is the Director of Gym Operations at Memphis Rox in Tennessee. Based in Soulsville, an underserved neighborhood in South Memphis, Memphis Rox serves as an access point to mentorship and helps community members overcome life’s obstacles. Memphis Rox takes pride in not being for profit, but being for people. It is the first non-profit gym of its size, at 32,000 square feet. With their “pay what you can” fee structure, they make sure nobody is turned away from the gym.

Climbing serves as the community’s avenue to foster relationships in a safe space. As their motto says, “we climb higher, when we climb together”. Jon walks us through how Memphis Rox serves as a model for providing equitable access to climbing, as well as the programs offered beyond climbing that help meet social needs for the people in the Soulsville community.

5:00- Jon’s intro and where to climb around Memphis

12:18- Memphis Rox’s mission statement

13:35- Jon’s history and position with Memphis Rox

22:10- The origin of Memphis Rox

25:12- Why Soulsville?

28:28- Memphis Rox being service-based

32:53- The non-profit business model

38:43- Memphis Rox’s board structure

40:57- Professional development programming

50:54- Mission statement, continued

55:45- What’s next for Memphis Rox?

1:01:31- Jon’s definition of advocacy

Memphis Rox: https://www.memphisrox.org/

Memphis Rox Instagram: @memphisroxclimbing

Soul Deep film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo_MhNqekbU

New Orleans Boulder Lounge: https://www.climbnobl.com/

Tufas Boulder Lounge: https://tufasboulderlounge.com/

Nosotros Climbing Gym: https://www.gonosotros.com/