The Corsets and Codpieces Podcast

When did women start wearing pants? This goes further back than you might think.

An overall history of female topless-ness.

We know men and women's clothes have different sized pockets. Why is this? Turns out it wasn't always this way. What happened?

What we use to signify gender in our clothing turns into a reflection of the culture and society we stem from.

I found more information! I had to share what I learned! So this is Part 2: The "Why". I can't wait to learn even more. Thank you for coming on this journey of curiosity with me, lovely listener.

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References:

https://www.encyclopedia.com/environment/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/patriarchy-and-matriarchy

https://www.dailykos.com/stories/2015/4/11/1376465/-Matriarchy-vs-Patriarchy

https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=1344762

Conversing on Gender By: GG Bolich

https://books.google.ca/books?id=jxtMLGIdQ8cC&pg=PA295&dq=matriarchal+dress&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi71fbOldjpAhWN4J4KHUDQCaYQ6AEIQjAD#v=onepage&q=matriarchal%20dress&f=false

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/08/portraits-of-chinese-Mosuo-matriarchs/

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/1041257315Z.00000000073?journalCode=yexm20

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So because I like to torture myself I have decided to do one of the largest, most politically charged topics in a 20 minute episode. I wanted to get a lightening fast overview of patriarchal influences over fashion so that when I do my next episode about fashion under matriarchal societies, I have something to compare it to. Fashion history under patriarchy is so undeniably linked to feelings about women's sexuality so this episode reviews that before and during patriarchy and how we are still try to untangle it today.

______________________________________________________________________ References:

https://www.michaelhhallett.com/the-rise-and-fall-of-patriarchy-in-womens-fashion-part-i/

https://www.michaelhhallett.com/the-rise-and-fall-of-patriarchy-in-womens-fashion-part-ii/

https://www.michaelhhallett.com/brief-history-shame/

https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/women-politics-dress-code-patriarchy_l_5d8ba3d6e4b01c02ca627f9c

https://feminisminindia.com/2019/05/31/womens-clothes-and-patrirarchy/

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/apr/25/ask-hadley-fashions-male-gaze

https://www.ctvnews.ca/lifestyle/manifestation-of-patriarchy-the-surprising-feminist-history-of-women-s-pockets-1.4225553

https://www.theguardian.com/news/2018/jun/22/the-age-of-patriarchy-how-an-unfashionable-idea-became-a-rallying-cry-for-feminism-today

https://warwick.ac.uk/services/library/mrc/archives_online/exhibitions/newwoman/rational/;

https://helenrappaport.com/footnotes/rational-dress/

https://psycnet.apa.org/record/2018-04940-001

High heels seem so wrapped up in gender but they are just shoes until history happens. Come and unpack it with me and learn how it became to be this way. 

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References:

https://www.teenvogue.com/story/heels-history-men

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-heeled_shoe

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-11-13/why-do-we-wear-high-heeled-shoes/9135936

https://qz.com/quartzy/1317090/its-enlightenment-philosophys-fault-that-women-wear-high-heels-instead-of-men/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/ideas/videos/can-fashion-ever-be-sustainable/p07n7630?playlist=fashion

https://www.today.com/style/surprisingly-functional-reason-high-heels-were-invented-t100969

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/mar/20/sex-power-oppression-why-women-wear-high-heels

http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20190509-is-it-the-end-for-high-heels

Let us continue our look through history at different stories about women who dressed as men. A monk, a Civil War spy and a forbidden love. 

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References:

Overall:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cross-dressing

https://www.ranker.com/list/women-disguised-as-men-in-history/katiefustich

Joan of Arc:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_of_Arc

https://www.history.com/topics/middle-ages/saint-joan-of-arc

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Saint-Joan-of-Arc

https://www.ancient.eu/Joan_of_Arc/

http://qspirit.net/joan-of-arc-cross-dressing-lgbtq/

https://history.howstuffworks.com/history-vs-myth/joan-of-arc-trial.htm

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/501179/how-cross-dressing-helped-send-joan-arc-stake

http://archive.joan-of-arc.org/joanofarc_male_clothing.html

Rena “Rusty” Kanokogi

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rena_Kanokogi

https://jwa.org/weremember/kanokogi-rusty

https://jwa.org/thisweek/nov/24/2008/rusty-kanokogi

Elisa Sanchez Loriga

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_same-sex_marriage_in_Spain

https://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=ca&u=https://directa.cat/elisa-i-marcela-la-increible-historia-dun-matrimoni-entre-dones-a-la-galicia-del-1901/&prev=search

Marina the Monk

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marina_the_Monk

http://catholicsaints.info/saint-marina-of-bithynia/

https://www.oca.org/saints/lives/2017/02/12/100508-venerable-mary-who-was-called-marinus-and-her-father-venerable-e

https://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/outcasts/downloads/betancourt_transgender_lives.pdf

Sarah Emma Edmonds

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarah_Emma_Edmonds

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Sarah-Edmonds

https://www.battlefields.org/learn/biographies/sarah-emma-edmonds

https://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/1993/spring/women-in-the-civil-war-2.html

https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/sarah-edmonds-frank-thompson

Let us look through history and different stories about women who dressed as men. Swashbuckling pirates, the Wild West and ancient Egypt await!

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References:

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/17735/8-historical-crossdressers-women-mans-world

https://interlude.hk/lesbian-diva-swordswoman-julie-daubigny-aka-mademoiselle-maupin/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cross-dressing

https://www.ranker.com/list/women-disguised-as-men-in-history/katiefustich

https://www.history.com/topics/ancient-history/hatshepsut

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/50076/why-did-egyptian-pharaohs-wear-false-beards

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatshepsut

https://people.wku.edu/haiwang.yuan/China/tales/mulan.htm

https://people.wku.edu/haiwang.yuan/China/tales/mulan.htm

https://allthatsinteresting.com/hua-mulan

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hua_Mulan

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_Bonny

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Anne-Bonny

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/if-theres-a-man-among-ye-the-tale-of-pirate-queens-anne-bonny-and-mary-read-45576461/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julie_d%27Aubignyhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julie_d%27Aubigny

https://www.factinate.com/people/facts-julie-daubigny/

https://interlude.hk/lesbian-diva-swordswoman-julie-daubigny-aka-mademoiselle-maupin/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charley_Parkhurst

http://www.metroactive.com/papers/cruz/03.05.03/charley-0310.html

Why are men's and women's clothing sized differently? Why is women's sizing so confusing? What happened to standard sizing and custom sizing?

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Resources:

https://fashion-incubator.com/why-isnt-womens-clothing-sized-like-mens-pt-2/

https://fashion-incubator.com/why-isnt-womens-clothing-sized-like-mens/

https://www.today.com/style/jeans-don-t-fit-here-s-explanation-inconsistency-women-s-t100419

https://time.com/how-to-fix-vanity-sizing/

I take a look into the purpose of corsets, a quick history of them, some historical misconceptions that made me giggle a little, their ties to feminism and the history of men in corsets too.

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References: 

Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America By Jo B Paoletti

https://www.britannica.com/topic/corset https://www.theatlantic.com/sexes/archive/2013/03/how-looser-corsets-helped-women-get-the-right-to-vote/274057/ https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/25/t-magazine/fashion/corset-history-feminism.html  https://foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-making/health/562-busting-corset-myths https://foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/corsetry/corsetpatterns/158-corseting-the-male-form https://glamorouscorset.com/articles/do-men-wear-corsets/