After losing both of my favorite cameras to Viltrox speedboosters (see the last episode) I'm going to switch to testing AUDIO until I decide which cameras to replace the old ones with. This episode tests the Takstar SGC-598 with one of my favorite (now rare) generic 1536 kbps audio recorders (actually, it says Yulass on the recorder).

MORE CUSTOM SETTINGS: www.silverlightphotoco.com/audio

A Viltrox speed booster killed another one of my cameras (my Panasonic G85) and now I’m out of “REAL” cameras (I only have my FZ1000 and 3 GoPros left). Previously, I published a YouTube video about how the “Canon-mount” version (the EF-M2ii) killed my Panasonic GX85 and how I switched to using the all-manual, Nikon-mount version (the NF-43x). Bad news is: this “Nikon version” has now killed my G85 (it scratched the sensor).

My CUSTOM SETTINGS are way more important than my LUTs, but would you use my LUTs at all if they aren’t that important? Well, the reason is I’m focused on perfecting my custom, in-camera (SOOC) settings so you don’t need a LUT!

If full frame camera prices come down (to an "affordable" level) you might ask "Do we even NEED Micro Four Thirds any more?" In this episode I'll cover the reasons I think it's good to keep BOTH systems (if you have full frame already, the cost of adding Micro Four Thirds isn't a barrier, and if you have Micro Four Thirds, full frame is getting close!) P.S. I mentioned current pricing of the Sony A7rii, but said A7ii…but I DO NOT RECOMMEND the A7ii for video purposes (but the A7rii might be a possibility, as long as you’re good with shooting in the cropped Super 35 mode, because the 4K is good in that mode, but not in full frame mode). Also, after some testing, I no longer recommend DSLRs (such as the Canon 6d which I mentioned) because they don’t work well LIVE with HDMI switchers, such as the ATEM Mini, etc.

AI for AUDIO is here, and so far I don't like it. If you've ever taken pictures with a "smart" phone that uses AI to (automatically) processes the image, and you don't have any control over how much SHARPNESS, CONTRAST, COLOR it adds, then you can start to imagine how bad AI for AUDIO can be.

SETTINGS: This podcast was recorded using a Rode VideoMicro + Comica Dual Lav going into a Zoom F2-BT, at the "CLOSE" proximity.

The way I'm using this mic is a bit different than it was designed. I'm plugging it into the Comica CVM-D03 Dual Lavalier booster pack (which was designed to provide plug-in power for 2 Comica lavalier mics) and it actually works to power AND boost the Rode VideoMicro, which improves the audio quality a lot compared to just plugging this mic into the Zoom F2. I did try that as well, and while it does sort of work (because you can raise the level of the 32-bit float file in post-production) it sounds way, way better when using the Comica CVM-D03 as an AUX. amplifier.

MORE CUSTOM SETTINGS: www.silverlightphotoco.com/audio

It is really interesting how this mic works with the Zoom F2 32-bit float recorder, at this "CLOSE" proximity: It doesn't need much MIC. GAIN (a setting of "1") and what's amazing about this 32-bit float file (from the Zoom F2) is that it actually comes out pretty clean after boosting the level in post-production. I like doing this, because it means you're using very little of the mic's pre-amp (which tends to "color" the signal). This is very different from how you would have to work if using a non-32-bit float recorder.

MORE CUSTOM SETTINGS: www.silverlightphotoco.com/audio

Wow...I'm really learning that you can't pre-judge any microphone-audio recorder combination (similar to how I learned that about lenses and sensors). For instance, when testing this mic on OTHER audio recorders, using the MIC. LOWCUT (either the 75Hz or 150Hz setting) sounded really bad (not natural at all). However, when using THIS MIC with both the FOAM + FURRY (included with it) using the MIC. LOWCUT setting of 150Hz sounds pretty good (it sounds accurate, natural and "REAL" as I like to say). My Custom Settings: Comica CVM-VM20 FOAM FURRY Zoom F1 CLOSE (silverlightphotoco.com)

MORE CUSTOM SETTINGS: www.silverlightphotoco.com/audio

The most important discovery about this microphone-audio recorder combination (specific to this "CLOSE" proximity) is that it sounds much better with the audio recorder's LOW CUT filter ON (set to 160Hz)! This is one of those things I wouldn't have guessed, but at this ("CLOSE") proximity, there is way too much BASS (sounds "boomy") without these LOW CUT settings. I also tried using the MIC. LOWCUT (both of the settings) and they didn't sound good at all, but the 160Hz filter on the Zoom H1n audio recorder is making the audio sound pretty natural and "REAL" (which is my goal for the "starting point").

MORE CUSTOM SETTINGS: www.silverlightphotoco.com/audio