Eyewitness

The New Zealand food revolution


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Did you know that the tomato only became popular locally about 1920? Or that brussels sprouts and silverbeet didn't catch on until the 1930s? Our national diet has undergone massive changes in the last half-century. Duncan Smith heads to the annual NZ Symposium of Gastronomy to find out why.

Did you know that the tomato only became popular locally about 1920? Or that brussels sprouts and silverbeet didn't catch on until the 1930s?

Our national diet has undergone massive changes in the last half-century. Duncan Smith heads to the annual NZ Symposium of Gastronomy to find out why.

'It's a tough job but someone's got to do it' he said, giving me what I can only call a meaningful stare.

He stared for what seemed an uncomfortably long time.

My bottom lip trembled a little but I managed to suppress a deep internal shudder as my stomach churned.

I held his gaze and feigned ease.

'Oh yes,' I proffered. It caught in my throat and squeaked out like an aging choirboy.

'I need you to go to the bay,' he plowed on bullishly, 'Napier, this coming weekend'.

'Okayyy...' My mind was racing; the bay, Napier, why me?

'There's something called The Symposium of Gastronomy' he continued.

It's in Napier next weekend and we think you're the man to cover it."

My visions of waking to the sight of a bloodied horse's head nestled on the rice pillow beside me evaporated into the ether as I digested what the mission required of me.

I would have to spend a weekend in Napier with a group of friendly foodies listening to interesting presentations about food, the making of it, it's history and what the food we eat it says about us. My tummy gurgled in a different way

"Mmmm ... Symposium of Gastronomy."

This group of chefs, anthropologists, historians, food writers and foodies are interested in the history and philosophy of eating, meals, food and food-ways, and they are out to promote a better understanding of our culinary heritage.

They have been meeting annually since the year 2000 in different locations around the country.

They welcome anyone with an interest in food and eating (Me! Me!) to take part in the Symposium and to contribute to their journal The Aristologist.

The theme of this year's symposium was 'migrate'. It featured numerous and diverse papers and presentations.

Have you heard of Bee Nilson? She's a graduate of the School of Home Science at Otago University (1931) who became a major food writer and educator and something of a celebrity chef in the UK in a career spanning the decades between 1935 until the early 1970s. Well, now I have!…

Go to this episode on rnz.co.nz for more details

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