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Here's another surfer girl story. Suzanne is 47, lives in Brooklyn, and started surfing because of her kid.
In this episode, Suzanne talks about learning to surf in New York (yes, New York), and the humbling reality of catching six waves one day…and none the next.
It's the second most popular question in surfing—right after "What should my first surfboard be?" We are absolutely obsessed with equipment. But here's the uncomfortable truth: you don't have to downsize.
In this episode, we are not talking about fin cuts, reef scars, scraped knees, raw bikini rashes, or the occasional not-quite-concussion. That stuff? Included in the price of admission. Instead, we talk about our mental health.
A little Sunday Surf Poem for you to cheer you up—Surfing Pig by William Worthless.
Part 2 of our "dude or dudette" question gets more cheerful. We run through a short history of women in surfing, participation ratios, physical differences, lineup behavior, and where being in the minority can actually be an advantage.
In today's Hey Zuz, I'm Confused, we tackle a surprisingly common question: can you bring your dog to the beach and let them roam while you're out surfing?
Heavy surf, close calls, and real-world heroics in the lineup. In this surf news roundup, we cover a California surfer rescued after clinging to a lobster trap buoy, the chaotic boat capsizing straight through the Steamer Lane lineup (and the surfers who jumped into rescue mode), and the suspended search for two missing Santa Cruz surfers. We also look at Justine Dupont's serious injury at a big wave event, USA Surfing's new commissioner ahead of the LA Olympics push, and a £10,000 film fund supporting women surf filmmakers.
We've got another surfer girl story for you. Meet Jen, who: a) is in the water 5 mornings a week, b) didn't start until she was 55, c) found waaaay more than just the joy of surfing in the lineup. This is a must-read story for anyone who's obsessing over their pop-up.
While hunting for second-hand surf books, I stumbled across a $15,000 first edition of Hawaiian Surfboard by Tom Blake. In this episode, we look at why this slim 1935 book is considered the most important publication in surf history.
Freezing on 4ft waves even though you're fine in 2–3ft? This episode is about the jump from small surf to "little big waves" and why it feels so much scarier than it should. We break down what your brain is really reacting to, plus practical ways to build confidence, manage wipeouts, and finally commit to the drop.
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