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Watching surfing on social media isn't the same as watching surfing in real life. In this episode, we talk about what you can learn just by sitting in the lineup or watching from the beach—board choice, takeoff spots, wave behavior, paddle tactics, lineup dynamics, and who to stay away from.
This week's Sunday Surf Poem is "Surfer Lou" by Jody Weissler, a sweet, very rhymy poem about pride, persistence, and one last wave.
Skeleton Bay is one of the world's most famous left-hand waves—and one of the hardest to actually surf. In this episode, we look at where it is, why it rarely works, how it was "discovered" via Google Earth, and why scoring it requires equal parts luck, skill, and patience.
In this episode, we talk about yelling in the water, the difference between safety communication and angry coaching, and why being shouted at can completely kill confidence—especially for adult learners. We also get into boundaries, positional power, and when it's time to walk away and find a new coach.
In this episode, we round up the week's surf news—three very different rescues, from Puerto Rico to Ireland to Northern California, and one story about surfers being "saved" without ever entering the ocean. From real-life emergencies to wave pools in the desert, it's a look at safety, risk, and what surfing is starting to look like in very different places.
Meet Bonnie. She's 75, lives in Oakland, and caught her first wave at 65—on a solo trip to Costa Rica. In this episode, Bonnie shares how she finally gave herself permission to try surfing, what it felt like to start late, and why she's still paddling out a decade later.
New year, fresh start—and the collective belief that this will be the year we get good at surfing. Bullshark.
In this episode, we talk about why New Year surf resolutions are mostly a trap, why perfection kills curiosity, and why apologizing for how you surf is a complete waste of time.
This episode was meant to be about big wave guns. Instead, we start with a new word of the week—overgunned—and what it really means.
Also, we break down the difference between guns and longboards, a bit of big-wave history (thanks, Pat Curren), and why guns are built the way they are.
This week we're reading "The Surfer" by Australian poet and environmental activist Judith Wright.
In this episode, we take a realistic look at surfing Biarritz: its history, famous breaks, extreme tide sensitivity, and why it can feel welcoming and overwhelming at the same time. A practical guide to crowds, conditions, and who Biarritz really works for.
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