Then & There - a vintage travel podcast

Smith has a love of those young men, does he not?  Our author in 1898 Venice brings us along the Riva in the second half of day, admiring all the sights, from the lithe and happy character without a discernable job, to the one horse that seems to change color and size.  Descriptions are lush as the sunset that has been painted countless times because of its beauty!

Staying the course of the most beautiful city in the book author's memory, we pick up the day in the middle with F. Hopkinson Smith and Espero "his" gondolier in 1898. Smith can't help himself from describing everything from the oldest crockery in Italy to the prettiest ladies of the evening (presumed). Sensory enjoyment for the calm nervous system.

I'll let him tell it. This mess of an episode on my part barely made it through the inner "board of competent recording" process. And if I apologized for every time I meant to get an episode out and was delayed by the necessities of earning a living...well.  This is why we all need a little Venice!

What could be more awe-inspiring than waking up in Venice in 1898 and having all day to float?  Come relish the canals in the gondola with our author of Gondola Days, as he waxes lyrical on all things Venetian, from sunshine to the skyline full of spires and domes, and including his beloved gondolier, Espero G.! 

As our beloved current-day Venice is struggling with the high water, let's not forget her powerful history. The invitation is there to look up some of the names and events mentioned. In Victorian days, there were so many pre-Italy events that were not-so-long-ago to F. Hopkinson Smith, but that we have not remembered.

Welcome to Venice, site of ancient, watery dreams of gold, purple, song, oleander! Follow F. Hopkinson Smith as he (Francis) takes us via rail to the Venice that greets you as you arrive.  This book, Gondola Days is a delight for the senses, and far more evocative than our fella who led us through Belgium and Holland. 

First a description of the book itself--because what's a vintage travel narrative without the feel of the paper, the details of the illustrations? A teaser of what's to come, via the Tables of Contents and Illustrations, and then smacko! - right into the Venice of the Victorian Era.  Sit back and let the Gondola deliver you through these time-worn canals.

In our final quick trip around the Netherlands, "Come With Me" author Schoonmaker breezes through much of South Holland, Zeeland and Friesland provinces. He gives us his definitive recommendations about what to see with comparative amounts of time, and even 'disses' a couple of towns and makes a typically misogynistic observation or two.  Opinions given are not my own--this was 1928, and he was an art/architecture snob after all. [That opinion is mine.] 

A small excerpt finishes this episode from a surprise book. It's Mies Bouhuys' collection of black & white photographs, titled simply "Holland", 1971.  The book was found on the sidewalk in a box, but is too moldy to share at length, and it also is probably not in the public domain. I remember seeing such books, written in three languages, only in Europe, before Taschen books were popular. 

As always, apologies for my accent in pronouncing Dutch and French names.

In 1928, art lover Frank Schoonmaker describes his methods in touring the small and large towns in North and South Holland, including Utrecht, Rotterdam and many museums in the Hague. Tolerate my pronunciations and feel free to laugh, as I relay the recommendation to enjoy the beach at Scheveningen--the litmus test for native Dutch speakers versus vreemden (strangers).

Continuing Come with Me Through Belgium and Holland by Frank Schoonmaker (an America author). This book was published in 1928 by William M. McBride & Company. It’s an 8 by 5 inch navy blue linen hardcover with gold embossed lettering. There are black and white photo illustrations with tissue paper sheet protectors. —adorable. —plus a map that folds out in the back.

Today, Book 2 is on Holland, as Schoonmaker calls it in 1928. He is of course referring to all the Netherlands. As he did with the Belgium part, Frank starts with the practical side of traveling to the Netherlands, getting around, the cost of things and descriptions of some of the sites you may want to consider seeing.

Starting with the passage, "How to Find out What you Need to Know" we stroll through some of the highlights of traveling in the Netherlands.  Do you want to see wooden shoes or windmills, you may like Volendam or Marken. Are you interested in art museums or the famous flower markets in Alkmaar?  Frank will tell us what he thinks about spending time searching out "costumes".

Thanks for listening!

Enjoy this episode, dedicated to "Progress, Not Perfection".  Goede Reis!

Ceridwen

How different is Holland from Belgium? How does a Dutch person feel about their bicycle?

This episode embarks on
 Book 2 on Holland (as author Frank Schoonmaker calls it in 1928). He is of course referring to all the Netherlands. As he did with the Belgium part, Frank starts with the practical side of traveling to the Netherlands, getting around, the cost of things and descriptions of some of the sites you may want to consider seeing. 
Curated for brevity, I've left in the picturesque, and left out the duller financials (we discovered had been too much in the Belgium portion). But I still love the funky money before the Euro, Guilders and Florins, hello, Princess Bride!

This book was published in 1928 by William M. McBride & Company. It’s an 8 by 5 inch navy blue linen hardcover with gold embossed lettering. There are black and white photo illustrations with tissue paper sheet protectors. —adorable. —plus a map that folds out in the back.

Legends recounted in the times before and after the Emporer Charlemagne, including an enormous infamous horse. This tour through Dendermonde Belgium concludes (out of order) our tour from the pages of Vanished Towers and Chimes of Flanders, Geo. Wharton Edwards, 1916.

Belgium’s smaller towns are spotlighted this episode. Furnes, Courtrai, Tournai, Mons, Liége. - Follow along and explore past trifles like Portable American Theaters, dubious wax religious figures, 1600s gothic architecture, and many mis-pronounced French words. [Part “Vanished Towers and Chimes” 1910, part “Come with Me” 1928.]