Ed has been waiting 22 episodes to talk about his favorite mountain in the world: Hallasan, South Korea's tallest peak at 1,947 meters.

This episode breaks down everything visitors need to know about climbing Hallasan, from the two summit trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) to the two partial trails (Eorimok and Yeongsil) for those who want the experience without the full commitment.

Ed shares his hard-won lessons about wet rocks, knee braces, and the humiliation of being passed by children and seniors on the descent, while Sora reveals she climbed to the summit solo on a snowy November day and made friends along the way.

• Hallasan is the tallest mountain in South Korea (1,947m) and a bucket-list climb for Koreans; about 900,000 people climb annually
• Two summit trails (reservation required): Gwaneumsa (north, shorter but steeper, many rock stairs) and Seongpanak (east, longer but gentler, more forest); 1,500 spots per day total (1,000 Seongpanak, 500 Gwaneumsa)
• Book on the 1st of the month for the following month; weekdays are easier for visitors since Koreans tend to book weekends
• Recommended strategy: climb up Gwaneumsa (steep but faster), descend via Seongpanak (longer but easier on knees); you must start from your registered trailhead but can descend either way
• Time cutoffs: must pass checkpoints by certain times (varies by season, roughly 11:30am-12:30pm for checkpoints, 1-2pm to leave summit); start by 7am at the latest, 5am is better
• Two partial trails (no reservation): Eorimok (longer, wooden decks, famous for autumn foliage at Eorimok Gyegok) and Yeongsil (shorter, steeper, famous for 500 rock formations called the "500 sons of the goddess"); both meet at Witsaeoreum
• No convenience stores in the park; bring all food and water; bathroom water is not confirmed potable
• Koreans bring thermos flasks to make ramyeon at rest stops; at altitude, water boils at a lower temperature so noodles don't fully cook (this is apparently the point)
• Gear: hiking poles, knee braces (especially for descent), crampons in winter; wet volcanic rock stairs on Gwaneumsa are treacherous
• Bus 240 connects Jeju City to Eorimok, Yeongsil, and Jungmun (once per hour), but plan a 30 minute hike from the bus stop to the trailheads
• Koreans are friendlier on hiking trails; strangers share snacks and encouragement (파이팅!)

• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/climb
• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
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Ed invented the "mini Olleh trail" concept as a secret strategy to get his hiking-averse family members hooked on the Jeju Olleh Trail.

The idea: walk a short, easy section that includes at least one stamping station, get them a passport with a few stamps, take them to the gift shop, and hope they come back to finish the rest someday.

This episode maps out mini trails across the island, all under 90 minutes, close to bus stops, and featuring at least one passport stamp.

• Mini Olleh standards: under 90 minutes, not too difficult, within 15 minutes of bus stops on both ends, includes at least one stamping station
• North coast (Jeju City): Sarabong Oreum (Trail 18 start, under 1 hour, murals, harbor views); Dodubong + Rainbow Coastal Road (Trail 17 midpoint at Eoyong Park, 1-1.5 hours, cafes, plane views)
• Northeast coast: Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (Trail 20 midpoint near Camel Coffee and windmills, flat walk, emerald beaches, K-drama location, bus 201 nearby)
• East coast: Gwangchigi Beach to Seongsan port (Trail 1 endpoint, walk through town, cross bridge for Iceland-like views, bus 201 serves both ends)
• East coast: Sehwa Beach and Haenyeo Museum (Trail 21 start, Sumbisori Gil loop through farmlands, Byeolbangjin fortress with canola flowers, optional push to midpoint for two stamps, kalguksu restaurant with money on the walls)
• South coast (Seogwipo): Olleh HQ is the stamping station for Trail 6 end / Trail 7 start; east fork goes to Jeongbang and Sojeongbang waterfalls (60-75 min); west fork goes past Jeju's only rice field to a temple and coastal road (45-60 min)
• More mini trails in the blog post: vamosajeju.com/hike

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Get a passport, collect a few stamps, and come back to finish the trail

Ed has been waiting 20 episodes to talk about his favorite thing in Jeju: the 437-kilometer Jeju Olleh Trail.

This episode covers everything a potential hiker needs to know, from the meaning of "Olleh" (a Jeju dialect word for the narrow pathway between a traditional house and the village road) to the passport stamping system, the blue (clockwise) and orange (counterclockwise) trail markers, and how to get the completion certificate at the Seogwipo headquarters.

Ed shares his top three favorite courses and Sora teases a future guided Olleh tour for English speakers.

• 27 routes totaling 437 km; most people do one trail (5-8 hours) or half a trail, not the whole thing
• No registration required to walk; just follow the blue and orange ribbons with the Ganse horse symbol
• Optional passport system: buy a booklet at any Olleh visitor center; stamp at the start, midpoint, and end of each trail; endpoint of one trail is the start of the next
• Blue arrows = clockwise direction; orange arrows = counterclockwise
• Completion certificate and pin awarded at Jeju Olleh Foundation HQ in Seogwipo (warning: they make you ring a bell and read an award speech)
• Who should try it: people who like walking, have time, are comfortable navigating buses (some routes have buses only every 2 hours), and are okay staying in local pensions
• Ed's top 3 courses: Course 21 (Haenyeo Museum through Sumbisori Gil, farmlands, Hado Beach, Jimibong); Course 8/9 (Gunsan Oreum descent through horse trail tunnel to a Mediterranean-style port); Course 1 (ending at Gwangchigi Beach with sunset or sunrise views of Seongsan Ilchulbong)
• Sora is developing a 1-2 week guided Olleh tour in English; contact [email protected]
• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/olleh

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with someone who needs a walking challenge

Continuing Ed's menu of hike-hater-friendly options for his family trip, this episode covers coastal headlands, windmill walks, historically significant trails, tea plantation strolls, and waterfall visits.

These are all designed with the same principles: not too long, not too steep, interesting throughout, and easy to bail out of when needed.

Key Takeaways

• Coastal headlands: Seopjikoji (east coast, flat, canola flowers March-May, views of Seongsan); Songaksan (southwest, loop trail, K-drama filming location for When Life Gives You Tangerines)
• Windmill walks: Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road (west coast, 30-60 minutes depending on route, raised platform over water); Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (east coast, Camel Coffee starting point, Woljeong and Gimnyeong beaches, snorkeling in summer)
• Historical hikes: Sumbisori Gil from Haenyeo Museum through farmlands to Hado and Byeolbangjin fortress (2 hours full loop; take bus one way to halve it); Altereu Airfield (WWII Japanese hangars among garlic and radish fields, connects to Seodal Memorial and April 3rd massacre site; dark tourism, requires car)
• Tea plantation: Osulloc (walk past the crowded cafe into the plantation itself; biggest in Jeju; rows of tea as far as you want to walk)
• Waterfalls: Jeongbang (only waterfall in Korea that flows directly into the sea); Sojeongbang (small Jeongbang; peaceful, fewer crowds); both connect to Lee Jung-Seop Street walk; art gallery and Sora's House (shell museum) nearby
• Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Leave a review and let us know which hike you tried

Ed is planning a family trip to Jeju for Christmas 2026, and some family members love hiking while others absolutely hate it.

This episode presents his solution: a curated menu of hikes designed for reluctant walkers. He establishes four benchmarks for hike-hater-friendly trails: under 90 minutes, minimal elevation gain, interesting things to see throughout, and places to rest (preferably cafes).

A bonus criterion: easy bail-out options via bus or taxi. Part 1 covers urban walks in Jeju City and Seogwipo, easy Oreums near the airport, and beach walks at low tide.

• Urban walks in Jeju City: Jeonnongno Cherry Blossom Street has murals, cafes, and souvenir shops even without cherry blossoms; 30 minutes to 2 hours; quit anytime
• Urban walks in Seogwipo: Lee Jung-Seop Street starts at the Olle daily market and goes downhill past cafes and shops to the artist's museum (closed for renovation until 2027, but free gallery available); can extend to Saeyeongyo Bridge and Saeseom Island
• Sarabong Oreum: 7-15 minutes to the top; one of the top 10 views from Joseon dynasty (Sabong Nakjo sunset); local kids, rabbits, exercising elders; cherry blossoms in spring
• Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: views of planes landing; cafes with rooftops and elevators; Eoyong Park near the runway; Daiso escape hatch for shopping; buses run hourly
• Beach walks: Pyoseon (check tide tables; combine with Jeju Folk Village); Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan (green carpet of seaweed on lava rock at low tide; stunning sunrise or sunset views of Ilchulbong)
• Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who hates hiking but loves views

In this episode, Ed and Sora wrap up the Hidden Jeju series by exploring activities perfect for slow travelers who want to experience Jeju on a deeper level.

Slow travel doesn't require months of time; even a week or 10 days works if you're intentional about skipping the tourist checklist and pursuing meaningful local experiences.

The episode covers four off-the-beaten-path activities: walking rescue dogs at a no-kill shelter, Buddhist temple stays, hands-on haenyeo diving experiences and performances, and plane spotting at secret locations near Jeju Airport.

This is also the final episode of Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem, where they finally teach the most important phrase they'd somehow never covered: 감사합니다 (thank you).

Key Takeaways

• Slow travel is about depth over breadth: stay longer, see fewer places, meet more people
• No-kill dog shelter volunteering: contact jeju.now on Instagram or email [email protected] to arrange
• Temple stays: four temples in Jeju offer overnight stays; two program types (full itinerary with 4am wake-up vs. relaxed rest); food is vegetarian and bland (no garlic or strong herbs); book at the national temple stay website; vamosajeju.com/temple
• Haenyeo experiences: shallow-water diving with a haenyeo guide (wetsuit, basket, catch pre-planted seafood); Woman Divers Kitchen offers a media art dinner or a theatrical play based on an 89-year-old haenyeo's life story, followed by Q&A
• Plane spotting: Dodubong Oreum for distant views; Granada Cafe rooftop for runway shots; spots along Rainbow Coastal Road and near the runway approach lights for planes flying directly overhead (bring earplugs); rental car required for the best spots

Final Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

• 쌤 (ssaem) = shortened from 선생님 (seonsaengnim), meaning teacher
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) = thank you (formal); trick: "come some eat up"
• 고마워요 (gomawoyo) = thank you (casual); 고마워 (gomawo) = even more casual
• 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo) = hello; trick: "onion on sale"
• Pro tip: mumble and bow — Koreans will appreciate the effort

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who needs a reason to visit Jeju

Ed and Sora announce a free trip planner app they built to help DIY travelers organize Jeju itineraries.

The app features 50+ activities, from popular Instagram spots to slow traveler experiences, with KakaoMap links for each destination.

Ed confesses the real reason he built it: his entire family is going to Jeju for Christmas and he needed a way to get everyone on the same page. Sora tries to get Ed to build one for New York too. He declines.

• What the Trip Planner does:
  • 50+ activities to browse and add to a wishlist
  • Organize activities across 1-5 day itineraries with time slots
  • Warns you if activities are in opposite regions (east vs. west) to avoid wasting time driving around Hallasan
  • Flags seasonal activities (cherry blossoms in April, tangerine picking Nov-Jan) if they don't match your travel month
  • Sends your completed itinerary to your email with KakaoMap links and additional info for each activity
  • Helps visualize where activities are clustered so you can decide where to book hotels
• What the Trip Planner does NOT do:
  • Not a booking service
  • Not based on crowd-sourced reviews; activities are curated based on Ed and Sora's personal experience
  • Does not include every possible option in a category (e.g., not every green tea farm in Jeju, just the ones they've been to)
• Who it's for:
  • DIY travelers who need to research and plan independently
  • Tour participants who want to compare what tour companies offer against what they actually want to do
• Access: vamosajeju.com/trip

• Try the Trip Planner at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Ed champions the five-day markets (오일장) as the antidote to touristy Dongmun and Olle markets — fresh produce, fair prices, no crowds, and an authentic window into local Jeju life.

Sora explains how these rotating markets date back to the Goryeo dynasty, with vendors traveling between villages on a 5-day cycle (dates ending in 2 and 7, or 3 and 8, etc.).

Their favorites:

• Sehwa (near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance)
• Seongsan (shooting location for Our Blues)
• Hallim (famous gimbap lady with a waiting list)
• Seogwipo (lots of food options).

Check dates before you go — they're only open one day then gone for four.

• Five-day markets (오일장): Rotate on fixed dates (e.g., 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, 27th of each month)
• Much more authentic than touristy Dongmun/Olle markets — fresh produce, local vendors, fair prices
• Vendors are mostly grandmas/grandpas; arrive early (6-7am), leave by 3-4pm regardless of official hours
• Sehwa Market: Near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance — combine with museum visit
• Hallim Market: Sora's favorite; famous gimbap lady (book first, stroll for an hour, then pick up)
• Seogwipo Market: Watch grandmas bargaining in Jeju dialect; sit and eat while observing local life
• Goseong Market: Near Seongsan, small, K-drama "Our Blues" filming location

Must-try foods:

• 빈떡 (bintteok, Jeju-only buckwheat crepes)
• 꽈배기 (kkwabaegi, twisted donuts)
• 호떡 (hotteok)
• 떡볶이 (tteokbokki)
• 순대 (sundae, blood sausage — not ice cream!)
• 뻥튀기 (ppong-twigi, puffed rice discs)
• 짜장면 (jajangmyeon) 

Review of previous phrases for market use:

• 이거 얼마예요? (igeo eolmayeyo?) — How much is this?
• 이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo) — Please give me this
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) — Thank you
• 맛있어요 (mashisseoyo) — It's delicious
• 안녕히 계세요 (annyeonghi gyeseyo) — Goodbye (to someone staying)

Sora's tip: Get straight to the point, but always say 감사합니다, 안녕히 계세요 when leaving.

1. Five-day market guide: vamosajeju.com/market
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Ed and Sora cover cherry blossom season in Jeju, a great alternative to fighting crowds in Japan.

Jeju has its own endemic species — the King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) — discovered in the early 1900s and native only to Jeju. They share five spots:

• Jeonnongro Street (tunnel effect, murals as consolation prize)
• Noksan-ro (canola flowers + windmills + cherry blossoms triple threat)
• Jeju National University campus (local picnic vibe, cheap restaurants nearby)
• Samseong-hyeol (traditional architecture, paid entry ~4,000 won)
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (open until 10pm for night viewing). Cherry blossoms bloom late March to mid-April but can end abruptly with rain.

• Jeju's King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) is endemic to Jeju — different species from Japan and mainland Korea
• Season: Late March to early-April; can end abruptly with rain/wind
• Canola flowers (yellow): February to April/May — longer season, good consolation prize
• Jeonnongro Street: Near Jeju City, cherry blossom tunnel effect, 100+ murals, cafes — 3-4 hour visit
• Gasiri Noksan-ro: Southeast, 1 hour from city, triple combo of cherry blossoms + canola flowers + windmills; need rental car; nearby: Folk Village, Snoopy Garden
• Jeju National University: Local picnic spot, cheap restaurants nearby; consolation: Gwaneumsa Temple (Attorney Woo filming location), Crash Landing on You forest scene
• Samseong-hyeol: Downtown Jeju near City Hall, traditional architecture, ~4,000 won entry; nearby: Noodle Street (국수거리) for gogi guksu
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall: Seogwipo, open until 10pm for night cherry blossom viewing, ~2,000 won entry

벚꽃 (beotkkot) = cherry blossom

Describing beauty:

• 예쁘다 (yeppeuda) — pretty (for flowers, women, things)
• 잘생겼다 (jalsaenggyeotta) — handsome (for men only)
• 멋있다 (meositta) — cool/impressive (for mountains, scenery, men)

1. Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
2. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
3. Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Sora kick off the "Hidden Jeju" series with green tea. Despite being coffee people (Sora quotes the Korean phrase 얼죽아 — "I'd freeze to death before giving up iced Americano"), they've grown to appreciate Jeju's tea culture.

Jeju's volcanic soil, clean filtered water, and humid climate make it ideal for tea cultivation, now rivaling Japan's famous Uji region.

They discuss the difference between green tea (brewed leaves) and matcha (ground whole leaf), and recommend several tea plantations:

• Osulloc (biggest, but crowded — go early)
• Seogwi Dawon (small, 80-year-old grandma serves tea, no tour groups)
• Orteas (reservation-only tea ceremony)
• Onulun (lava cave underneath, green tea foot bath).

• Jeju tea rivals Japan's Uji region; volcanic soil, filtered water, and humid climate are ideal for cultivation
• 말차 (malcha) = matcha in Korean; 녹차 (nokcha) = green tea
• Matcha = ground whole leaf (more caffeine, more nutrients); green tea = brewed extract
• Harvest season: April-June; early harvest (April) is smoother and more expensive; June harvest is stronger
• Osulloc Tea Museum: Biggest, free entry, beautiful fields — but crowded (tour buses, food court vibe); go early morning
• Seogwi Dawon: Small, tranquil, 80-year-old grandma owner, 5,000 won entry includes 2 teas, views of Hallasan peak, no large tour groups
• Orteas: Reservation-only, Airbnb experience, 4-tea ceremony (green, black, hojicha, matcha) — no random tourists
• Onulun Green Tea House: Lava cave underneath tea fields, green tea foot bath (~$10)
• Aewol area: Matcha bingsu, matcha ice cream, croiffle

마실래요 (mashillaeyo) = Would you like to drink? / I would like to drink

• 뭐 마실래요? (mwo mashillaeyo?) — What would you like to drink?
• 말차 마실래요 (malcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink matcha
• 녹차 마실래요 (nokcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink green tea

Tea vocabulary:

• 녹차 (nokcha) — green tea
• 말차 (malcha) — matcha
• 홍차 (hongcha) — black tea
• 생강차 (saenggang-cha) — ginger tea
• 유자차 (yuja-cha) — citron tea
• 한라봉차 (hallabong-cha) — Hallabong tangerine tea

1. Green tea blog post: vamosajeju.com/tea
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook