Ed is planning a family trip to Jeju for Christmas 2026, and some family members love hiking while others absolutely hate it.

This episode presents his solution: a curated menu of hikes designed for reluctant walkers. He establishes four benchmarks for hike-hater-friendly trails: under 90 minutes, minimal elevation gain, interesting things to see throughout, and places to rest (preferably cafes).

A bonus criterion: easy bail-out options via bus or taxi. Part 1 covers urban walks in Jeju City and Seogwipo, easy Oreums near the airport, and beach walks at low tide.

• Urban walks in Jeju City: Jeonnongno Cherry Blossom Street has murals, cafes, and souvenir shops even without cherry blossoms; 30 minutes to 2 hours; quit anytime
• Urban walks in Seogwipo: Lee Jung-Seop Street starts at the Olle daily market and goes downhill past cafes and shops to the artist's museum (closed for renovation until 2027, but free gallery available); can extend to Saeyeongyo Bridge and Saeseom Island
• Sarabong Oreum: 7-15 minutes to the top; one of the top 10 views from Joseon dynasty (Sabong Nakjo sunset); local kids, rabbits, exercising elders; cherry blossoms in spring
• Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: views of planes landing; cafes with rooftops and elevators; Eoyong Park near the runway; Daiso escape hatch for shopping; buses run hourly
• Beach walks: Pyoseon (check tide tables; combine with Jeju Folk Village); Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan (green carpet of seaweed on lava rock at low tide; stunning sunrise or sunset views of Ilchulbong)
• Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who hates hiking but loves views

In this episode, Ed and Sora wrap up the Hidden Jeju series by exploring activities perfect for slow travelers who want to experience Jeju on a deeper level.

Slow travel doesn't require months of time; even a week or 10 days works if you're intentional about skipping the tourist checklist and pursuing meaningful local experiences.

The episode covers four off-the-beaten-path activities: walking rescue dogs at a no-kill shelter, Buddhist temple stays, hands-on haenyeo diving experiences and performances, and plane spotting at secret locations near Jeju Airport.

This is also the final episode of Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem, where they finally teach the most important phrase they'd somehow never covered: 감사합니다 (thank you).

Key Takeaways

• Slow travel is about depth over breadth: stay longer, see fewer places, meet more people
• No-kill dog shelter volunteering: contact jeju.now on Instagram or email [email protected] to arrange
• Temple stays: four temples in Jeju offer overnight stays; two program types (full itinerary with 4am wake-up vs. relaxed rest); food is vegetarian and bland (no garlic or strong herbs); book at the national temple stay website; vamosajeju.com/temple
• Haenyeo experiences: shallow-water diving with a haenyeo guide (wetsuit, basket, catch pre-planted seafood); Woman Divers Kitchen offers a media art dinner or a theatrical play based on an 89-year-old haenyeo's life story, followed by Q&A
• Plane spotting: Dodubong Oreum for distant views; Granada Cafe rooftop for runway shots; spots along Rainbow Coastal Road and near the runway approach lights for planes flying directly overhead (bring earplugs); rental car required for the best spots

Final Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

• 쌤 (ssaem) = shortened from 선생님 (seonsaengnim), meaning teacher
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) = thank you (formal); trick: "come some eat up"
• 고마워요 (gomawoyo) = thank you (casual); 고마워 (gomawo) = even more casual
• 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo) = hello; trick: "onion on sale"
• Pro tip: mumble and bow — Koreans will appreciate the effort

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who needs a reason to visit Jeju

Ed and Sora announce a free trip planner app they built to help DIY travelers organize Jeju itineraries.

The app features 50+ activities, from popular Instagram spots to slow traveler experiences, with KakaoMap links for each destination.

Ed confesses the real reason he built it: his entire family is going to Jeju for Christmas and he needed a way to get everyone on the same page. Sora tries to get Ed to build one for New York too. He declines.

• What the Trip Planner does:
  • 50+ activities to browse and add to a wishlist
  • Organize activities across 1-5 day itineraries with time slots
  • Warns you if activities are in opposite regions (east vs. west) to avoid wasting time driving around Hallasan
  • Flags seasonal activities (cherry blossoms in April, tangerine picking Nov-Jan) if they don't match your travel month
  • Sends your completed itinerary to your email with KakaoMap links and additional info for each activity
  • Helps visualize where activities are clustered so you can decide where to book hotels
• What the Trip Planner does NOT do:
  • Not a booking service
  • Not based on crowd-sourced reviews; activities are curated based on Ed and Sora's personal experience
  • Does not include every possible option in a category (e.g., not every green tea farm in Jeju, just the ones they've been to)
• Who it's for:
  • DIY travelers who need to research and plan independently
  • Tour participants who want to compare what tour companies offer against what they actually want to do
• Access: vamosajeju.com/trip

• Try the Trip Planner at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Ed champions the five-day markets (오일장) as the antidote to touristy Dongmun and Olle markets — fresh produce, fair prices, no crowds, and an authentic window into local Jeju life.

Sora explains how these rotating markets date back to the Goryeo dynasty, with vendors traveling between villages on a 5-day cycle (dates ending in 2 and 7, or 3 and 8, etc.).

Their favorites:

• Sehwa (near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance)
• Seongsan (shooting location for Our Blues)
• Hallim (famous gimbap lady with a waiting list)
• Seogwipo (lots of food options).

Check dates before you go — they're only open one day then gone for four.

• Five-day markets (오일장): Rotate on fixed dates (e.g., 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, 27th of each month)
• Much more authentic than touristy Dongmun/Olle markets — fresh produce, local vendors, fair prices
• Vendors are mostly grandmas/grandpas; arrive early (6-7am), leave by 3-4pm regardless of official hours
• Sehwa Market: Near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance — combine with museum visit
• Hallim Market: Sora's favorite; famous gimbap lady (book first, stroll for an hour, then pick up)
• Seogwipo Market: Watch grandmas bargaining in Jeju dialect; sit and eat while observing local life
• Goseong Market: Near Seongsan, small, K-drama "Our Blues" filming location

Must-try foods:

• 빈떡 (bintteok, Jeju-only buckwheat crepes)
• 꽈배기 (kkwabaegi, twisted donuts)
• 호떡 (hotteok)
• 떡볶이 (tteokbokki)
• 순대 (sundae, blood sausage — not ice cream!)
• 뻥튀기 (ppong-twigi, puffed rice discs)
• 짜장면 (jajangmyeon) 

Review of previous phrases for market use:

• 이거 얼마예요? (igeo eolmayeyo?) — How much is this?
• 이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo) — Please give me this
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) — Thank you
• 맛있어요 (mashisseoyo) — It's delicious
• 안녕히 계세요 (annyeonghi gyeseyo) — Goodbye (to someone staying)

Sora's tip: Get straight to the point, but always say 감사합니다, 안녕히 계세요 when leaving.

1. Five-day market guide: vamosajeju.com/market
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Ed and Sora cover cherry blossom season in Jeju, a great alternative to fighting crowds in Japan.

Jeju has its own endemic species — the King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) — discovered in the early 1900s and native only to Jeju. They share five spots:

• Jeonnongro Street (tunnel effect, murals as consolation prize)
• Noksan-ro (canola flowers + windmills + cherry blossoms triple threat)
• Jeju National University campus (local picnic vibe, cheap restaurants nearby)
• Samseong-hyeol (traditional architecture, paid entry ~4,000 won)
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (open until 10pm for night viewing). Cherry blossoms bloom late March to mid-April but can end abruptly with rain.

• Jeju's King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) is endemic to Jeju — different species from Japan and mainland Korea
• Season: Late March to early-April; can end abruptly with rain/wind
• Canola flowers (yellow): February to April/May — longer season, good consolation prize
• Jeonnongro Street: Near Jeju City, cherry blossom tunnel effect, 100+ murals, cafes — 3-4 hour visit
• Gasiri Noksan-ro: Southeast, 1 hour from city, triple combo of cherry blossoms + canola flowers + windmills; need rental car; nearby: Folk Village, Snoopy Garden
• Jeju National University: Local picnic spot, cheap restaurants nearby; consolation: Gwaneumsa Temple (Attorney Woo filming location), Crash Landing on You forest scene
• Samseong-hyeol: Downtown Jeju near City Hall, traditional architecture, ~4,000 won entry; nearby: Noodle Street (국수거리) for gogi guksu
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall: Seogwipo, open until 10pm for night cherry blossom viewing, ~2,000 won entry

벚꽃 (beotkkot) = cherry blossom

Describing beauty:

• 예쁘다 (yeppeuda) — pretty (for flowers, women, things)
• 잘생겼다 (jalsaenggyeotta) — handsome (for men only)
• 멋있다 (meositta) — cool/impressive (for mountains, scenery, men)

1. Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
2. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
3. Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Sora kick off the "Hidden Jeju" series with green tea. Despite being coffee people (Sora quotes the Korean phrase 얼죽아 — "I'd freeze to death before giving up iced Americano"), they've grown to appreciate Jeju's tea culture.

Jeju's volcanic soil, clean filtered water, and humid climate make it ideal for tea cultivation, now rivaling Japan's famous Uji region.

They discuss the difference between green tea (brewed leaves) and matcha (ground whole leaf), and recommend several tea plantations:

• Osulloc (biggest, but crowded — go early)
• Seogwi Dawon (small, 80-year-old grandma serves tea, no tour groups)
• Orteas (reservation-only tea ceremony)
• Onulun (lava cave underneath, green tea foot bath).

• Jeju tea rivals Japan's Uji region; volcanic soil, filtered water, and humid climate are ideal for cultivation
• 말차 (malcha) = matcha in Korean; 녹차 (nokcha) = green tea
• Matcha = ground whole leaf (more caffeine, more nutrients); green tea = brewed extract
• Harvest season: April-June; early harvest (April) is smoother and more expensive; June harvest is stronger
• Osulloc Tea Museum: Biggest, free entry, beautiful fields — but crowded (tour buses, food court vibe); go early morning
• Seogwi Dawon: Small, tranquil, 80-year-old grandma owner, 5,000 won entry includes 2 teas, views of Hallasan peak, no large tour groups
• Orteas: Reservation-only, Airbnb experience, 4-tea ceremony (green, black, hojicha, matcha) — no random tourists
• Onulun Green Tea House: Lava cave underneath tea fields, green tea foot bath (~$10)
• Aewol area: Matcha bingsu, matcha ice cream, croiffle

마실래요 (mashillaeyo) = Would you like to drink? / I would like to drink

• 뭐 마실래요? (mwo mashillaeyo?) — What would you like to drink?
• 말차 마실래요 (malcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink matcha
• 녹차 마실래요 (nokcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink green tea

Tea vocabulary:

• 녹차 (nokcha) — green tea
• 말차 (malcha) — matcha
• 홍차 (hongcha) — black tea
• 생강차 (saenggang-cha) — ginger tea
• 유자차 (yuja-cha) — citron tea
• 한라봉차 (hallabong-cha) — Hallabong tangerine tea

1. Green tea blog post: vamosajeju.com/tea
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Ed opens with his "criminal history" — killing a rental car in Japan by putting diesel in a gasoline engine. Lesson learned: green pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same in Korea).

This leads into a nuanced discussion of whether DIY travelers should rent a car.

The verdict: rent if you have 3-5 days and want flexibility or off-the-beaten-path destinations (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields); skip if you're a novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, or have just 2 days.

They cover the rental process, GPS language settings, self-service gas stations, parking, and the dreaded 30 km/h school zone speed traps that can rack up 120,000 won ($90) fines.

• Green pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same across Korea and Japan)
• Rent a car if: 3-5 days, want flexibility, visiting off-the-beaten-path places (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields, Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road)
• Skip the car if: novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, just 2 days, uncomfortable with night driving (no lights on mid-mountain roads, hairpin turns)
• Need international driver's license; not all companies rent to foreigners — check for English website
• Lotte Rent-a-Car and SK Rent-a-Car work with foreigners; price includes collision damage waiver and roadside assistance
• At airport: follow signs to rental car shuttle bus → office → complete paperwork → get car
• Ask staff to change GPS language to English before leaving the lot
• Self-service gas stations (셀프) are slightly cheaper; kiosks often have English
• Parking free outside Jeju City and Seogwipo; paid parking auto-calculated via transponder and billed to rental company
• Speed traps everywhere near schools: 30 km/h zones for children, 50 km/h for elderly areas
• Speeding ticket = 120,000 won (~$90) per violation — can rack up multiple fines in one drive
• Tickets billed to your credit card through rental company even after you leave Korea
• No freeways on Jeju; Hallasan blocks direct routes — trips take longer than expected

Gas station phrases — attendant is called 사장님 (sajangnim)

• 가득요 (gadeugyo) — Fill it up (or just say "full")
• 5만원요 (oman-won-yo) — 50,000 won worth
• 카드 (kadeu) — Card
• 현금 (hyeongeum) — Cash

Note: 카드 (card) and 가득 (full) sound similar — pronunciation matters!

1. Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
2. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
3. Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Sora tackle public transportation for DIY travelers. Sora admits she doesn't take buses because she's "very Korean" and impatient — buses to small villages come only once per hour.

Ed shares a story about Chinese tourists stranded in Seongsan after 10pm when buses stopped running. They cover bus colors (red = express, blue = regular, green = village), the T-Money card system, transfer rules, and the new option for tourists to use contactless payments on Jeju buses.

For taxis, Uber now works in Korea but summons real taxis due to the strong taxi union.

• Buses stop early (9-9:30pm) in tourist areas; check Jeju bus website for schedules, not just map apps
• Bus colors: Red = express (~$3), Blue = regular (~$1), Green = village (infrequent)
• T-Money card works everywhere; tap out for free transfers (40 min window, up to 2 more buses)
• Buy T-Money at convenience stores (3,000-4,000 won); most buses don't accept cash
• Tourists can now use contactless Visa/MasterCard and Apple Pay on Jeju buses (not mainland Korea)
• Large luggage: use airport limousine bus or taxi; some blue buses have luggage bays
• Uber calls real taxis in Korea (same app, same payment method from home)
• Red taxi light = empty, green = occupied (counterintuitive!)
• Have your destination address in Korean on your phone for taxi drivers
• Kakao Map recommended over Naver Map for restaurant reviews (fewer fakes)

가요 (gayo) = Go / Going — raise intonation to make it a question

• 공항 가요? (gonghang gayo?) — Does this go to the airport?
• 성산일출봉 가요? (Seongsan Ilchulbong gayo?) — Does this go to Seongsan?
• 안 가요 (an gayo) — No, it doesn't go

돼요 (dwaeyo) = Is it possible?

• 카드 돼요? (kadeu dwaeyo?) — Can I pay by card?

1.    Read the blogpost on taking buses on Jeju at vamosajeju.com/bus.

Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

From $25 cockroach motels to five-star Hyatts, this episode covers the full spectrum of Jeju accommodations.

Ed and Soraya break down where to stay (Jeju City for convenience, Seogwipo for tranquility, beach towns or mid-mountain for authenticity) and the types of lodging available: hostels, motels/hotels, pensions, minbak (민박, traditional room rentals), hotels, temple stays, yoga/wellness retreats, and camping cars.

Ed gives a primer on Korean "wet bathrooms"—where the entire bathroom is designed to get wet when you shower. The episode includes practical advice on choosing locations based on trip length and whether you're willing to pack/unpack daily.

Where to Stay — By Region

•      Jeju City (North): Busiest area, airport, cruise port, everything you need. Best for short trips (3-4 days).

•      Seogwipo City (South): Second-largest city, more tranquil, beautiful beaches nearby.

•      Beach towns / Mid-mountain: For authentic Jeju experience. East and west coasts, or forest areas near Hallasan.

•      With a rental car: Circle the island—one night each in north, east, south, west.

•      Jeju City has two areas: Old Town (older buildings, less crowded, nice atmosphere) and New Jeju (high-rises, more restaurants/cafes/shops, like Seoul).

Types of Accommodation

•      Hostel: ~$20/night for a bed

•      Motel (모텔): ~$25-40/night, budget option, often no parking. Also called "love hotels" (러브호텔)—used for privacy/one-night stays.

•      Pension (펜션): Like Airbnb with nice views (beach/forest), includes kitchen for cooking.

•      Minbak (민박): Room in a local's home. Look for signs on houses.

•      Hotels: Range from ~$40-50 to luxury.

•      Temple stay: Sleep in a Buddhist temple.

•      Yoga/wellness retreats: ~$150/night, includes yoga classes, meditation, tea time.

•      Camping car (RV): $100-200/day (plus gas). Limited regulation—can park near ocean in most places.

Korean "Wet Bathroom" Survival Guide

•      Entire bathroom gets wet when you shower—no glass partition or curtain

•      Outlets have flip covers; toilet paper has partial cover

•      Bathroom slippers required

•      Single faucet switches between sink and shower—remember to switch back or get surprise-soaked

•      Only small hand towels provided—bring your own large towel if needed

어디에요? (eodieyo?) — "Where is ___?"

•      Structure: [noun] + 어디에요?

Examples:

•      스타벅스 어디에요? (Starbucks eodieyo?) = "Where is Starbucks?"

•      화장실 어디에요? (hwajangsil eodieyo?) = "Where is the bathroom?"

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

How much does a trip to Jeju actually cost? This episode breaks down every budget category and covers practical flight tips for visitors.

Flights (Seoul/Busan → Jeju)

•        Price range: $15-70 one-way

•        Cheapest: Mid-week, early morning or late evening flights

•        Baggage: Mainline carriers allow 20kg checked baggage, but only 15kg for LCCs. All allow 10kg carry-on

•        Visitors: No mobile boarding pass, need to check in at airport

•        Power banks: Must be declared and tagged

•        Liquids: Allowed on domestic flights.

Lodging

•        Hostel: ~$20

•        Motel (Private room): ~$30

•        3-star hotel: $80-100

•        Airbnb: Prices vary

Transportation

•        Rental car: <$100/day including insurance and roadside assistance

•        Bus: ~$1 per ride

•        Airport buses: ~$4 (goes to Jeju City, Seogwipo, Seongsan)

•        Taxi: Within Jeju City is ~$10, to Seogwipo: ~$50

•        Tip: Use Uber app for real taxis

Food & Drinks

•        Convenience store meal: $3-4

•        Full restaurant meal: ~$7 (10,000 won)

•        McDonald's combo: ~$7

•        Coffee (McDonalds/Mega/Compose): $1-2

•        Coffee (fancy cafe): $7-8

•        High-end/Michelin: $100+ per person

Admission Fees

•        Free: National museums, oreums (hiking), Hallasan (requires registration), Arboretum

•        Government attractions: Usually under $5

•        Private attractions: Up to ~$10

•        Tangerine picking: ~$7 (10,000 won)

Sino-Korean Numbers (for prices)

Basic numbers:

•        1 = 일 (il), 2 = 이 (i), 3 = 삼 (sam), 4 = 사 (sa), 5 = 오 (o)

•        100 = 백 (baek), 1,000 = 천 (cheon), 10,000 = 만 (man)

Key concept: Korean groups digits by 4 zeros (만 = 10,000), not 3 zeros like English

Examples:

•        4,000원 = 사천원 (sacheon-won)

•        50,000원 = 오만원 (oman-won) — think "five ten-thousands" not "fifty thousand" 

1.     Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.     Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources