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The Morgan Stanley yearly report on the state of the watchmaking industry has become a reference tool which is either loathed or appreciated by those figuring in it, but nonetheless it gives a good snapshot of the main trends witnessed during the previous year. 

And we did get slightly carried away for about four hours with Olivier Müller from Luxconsult talking about the report's main findings. 

We cover the methodology used by the teams of Morgan Stanley, as there has been some controversy on some of the published numbers, but then we follow on general market dynamics, such as why privately held companies perform better than publicly listed ones and the notion of premiumisation and consolidation. 

We also discuss the performance of groups and the big names of the industry, as well as the independent scene and as non Swiss brands and the evolution of events and marketing strategies. 

Enjoy!

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Czapek, the renowned Swiss watchmaker, celebrates its 10th anniversary, marking a decade of reviving the legacy of François Czapek, one of the most talented watchmakers of the 19th century. Known for blending contemporary design with classical elegance, Czapek has earned a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship, innovative movements, and refined aesthetics. Over the past decade, the brand has captivated enthusiasts with pieces like the Quai des Bergues, the Place Vendôme, and the Antarctic, each carrying the spirit of the brand’s historical roots while showcasing a modern twist.

The 10th anniversary is more than a milestone - it’s a testament to the brand’s philosophy of independence and excellence. To celebrate this, we sat down with one of the brand's co-founders, Xavier de Roquemaurel, who told us the very story of the company's inception, its wins and losses, how it was launched as the first international crowdfunding equity, and now spreading its shares among its employees.

🎥 Listen to the podcast and watch the full video on our YouTube!

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The Eighth Annual Swiss Watcher is out!

We invited Oliver Müller to break down the key moments of the past 12 months and explore what’s next based on current watch market trends. The result? Our longest piece of content ever—but we simply couldn't leave out this vital insight!

📉 Market Overview:
After the post-COVID boom, the market is finally taking a downturn. This shift was anticipated and, to some extent, inevitable—especially in the secondary market. However, the reality has hit harder than expected, particularly for brands that had pinned their hopes on Chinese consumers. Due to internal challenges, in 2024 exports to Greater China dropped by 23% in value. But despite this market shift, the top four brands remain unchanged: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. These privately owned watchmakers collectively captured an impressive 47% market share in 2024.

Listen to this Podcast to learn more about the brands, trends and what to expect in 2025!

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The watch Oscars, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), is coming into town! In a matter of days, we will find out who will get the "Aiguille d'Or" and see what the best timepieces of the year are, according to our beloved watch community.

Just before the significant event, we sat down with the President of the GPHG, Raymond Loretan, to uncover the secrets of the Grand Prix, the GPHG Academy, and how his diplomatic career has helped him navigate the watchmaking realm. We also found out which watches he gifted to counterparts during his time as a Swiss ambassador.

🫰🏻And yes, a video version of Watch Waking is available only to our beloved Patrons.

👉🏻 Help us make Watch Waking more exciting! Like, subscribe and leave your comments on the topic and questions you would like us to discuss with our guests.

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This year, the Swiss watch market is facing an unwelcome decline in export figures. However, there's no need to start panicking just yet.

In this new episode of Watch Waking, we welcome Antoine Pin, the current Managing Director of Bvlgari Watches, soon-to-be CEO of Tag Heuer, and President of the Geneva Watch Association. He joins us to discuss the upcoming Geneva Watch Days, how the show can divert the challenging marketing trends, and the promising future of contemporary watchmaking.

This podcast also offers a valuable opportunity to gain insight into the strategic thinking of someone who will soon lead a brand with an estimated annual revenue exceeding USD 700 million.


👉🏻 Help us make Watch Waking more exciting! Like, subscribe and leave your comments on the topic and questions you would like us to discuss with our guests.

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In the new episode of Watch Waking, we met with Alexandre Catton, director of the EPHJ Trade Show - The World of High Precision. Together, we discussed those who are not always in the spotlight but without whom there’s a chance your watch wouldn’t be as nice as it is.

⚙️ Subcontractors and suppliers are not always the ones who come to mind when talking about your perfect timepiece. However, they are the driving force behind innovations and visionary inventions in watchmaking. To mark their exceptional work, EPHJ was created some 20 years ago. The Salon, dedicated to watchmaking and jewellery subcontracting, microtechnology, and the medical industry, today presents an equally attractive platform for professionals and watch collectors.

📻 Tune in to find out more about EPHJ, the importance of suppliers and subcontractors, as well as the main problems they are facing at the moment, which could seriously affect the watch market.

👉🏻 Help us make Watch Waking more exciting! Like, subscribe and leave your comments on the topic and questions you would like us to discuss with our guests.

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Since their inception in the 1980s, wristwatch auctions have always attracted collectors and enthusiasts with rare and exceptional timepieces, price records and fantastic storytelling.

For the new episode of Watch Waking, we met with Daryn Schnipper,  Chairman of the International Watch Division and Senior Vice President at Sotheby's, to talk about her first wristwatch auction and how things changed in the past 40 years.

Among other topics we discussed:
- Recent scandals related to auctions,
- How to raise credibility among buyers,
- Some memorable lots,
- Auctions that didn't happen and why,
- How to place the bait for the buyer,
- Why Stallone is selling a watch he never wore,
- How auctions decide on watch trends,
- What is a "married watch" and which brand to check first,

So grab your coffee and enjoy the ride. And we ❤️ your comments and likes  😎

📚 Book "100 watches 500 years" by Alexander Barter & Daryn Schnipper
🔨 Sotheby's "Important watches" with Patek from Sylvester Stallone on June 5.
📺 Our video interview with Daryn can be found here, on the WatchesTV YouTube channel.

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In the watchmaking world, Rolex symbolises the essence of Swiss watches: exceptional quality, high desirability, and many secrets. Since the inception of this brand, there has been no academic research done on its strategies, and only a couple of books have been written on its history.

For the new episode of WATCH WAKING, we met with Pierre-Yves Donzé, professor of business history at the Graduate School of Economics, Osaka University. He is the person who studied the phenomenon of Rolex and wrote the book “La Fabrique d’Excellence” (The Factory of Excellence), revealing the truth about the strategies of the brand, its business model, and its rise to the horological Olympus.

👉🏻 Help us make Watch Waking more exciting! Like, subscribe and leave your comments on the topic and questions you would like us to talk about with our guests.

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When we discuss watch collecting, the words "classical" and "investment" most often come to mind. But what if even the process of acquiring the desired timepiece can be unconventional?

In this new episode of Watch Waking, we met with Lorenzo Maillard and Maxime Couturier, the owners of the self-proclaimed outcast watch magazine "heist out", to discuss their upcoming one-of-a-kind underground sale with Sotheby's and the new dissident culture of watch collecting.

Maillard and Couturier began challenging the rigid norms of watch marketing some time ago, and in less than one year since the inception of "heist out", they have embarked on a joint project with one of the renowned auction houses. Disruptive by nature, they encourage people to enjoy watches and to eschew cultural norms and dogmas when choosing what to wear on their wrists.

Listen to the new episode to learn about the avant-garde auction and its catalogue, presented in the form of trading cards, understand how brands can strengthen their connections with younger generations, and explore the extraordinary side of collecting timepieces.

 
Sotheby's x heist out auction lots
On view: Geneva, La Corne à Vin, Rue de Lausanne 47b
8-10 April | 4:00PM-8:00PM

Help us make Watch Waking more exciting. Like, subscribe and leave your comments on the topic and questions you want us to discuss with our guests.

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The new episode of PRIMETIME, Watchmaking in the News is here! And there’s a lot to talk about that might shift the market in the near future.

📝 First, we talk about the free trade pact signed between India and Switzerland along with Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein. The new reality will come into effect in 2025 and open enormous possibilities for the expansion of Swiss watch brands in this strategic growth territory of India.

📊 We checked the latest report on the watch market performance in 2023 released by Oliver R.Müller and his LuxeConsult in collaboration with Morgan Stanley and revealed 3 interesting trends.

🌚 The new MoonSwatch Moonphase is also on our radar this month (with the video of the secret phrase), as well as some noteworthy developments within and with the Swatch Group that might influence its future on the stock market.

💰An interesting scoop to speculate on is related to the Sandoz Family Foundation and the Parmigiani group. However, we’ve been told by Sandoz that they are not commenting on rumours, so it’s better to wait for the official statements.

🔨 We present the upcoming non-conventional watch sale organised by Sotheby’s in partnership with the self-proclaimed outcast watch magazine “heist out”. Pretty cool idea, rare and interesting lots and a really fun concept of a catalogue. Timepieces are on view in Geneva at « La Corne à Vin », Rue de Lausanne 47b, 8-10 April | 4:00PM-8:00PM. Check them online here: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds?locale=en&lotFilter=AllLots

 🏎️ Christie’s as well have some great cards in the sleeve with timepieces coming from none other than the race king Michael Schumacher. The sale is on May 13th in Geneva: https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-including-the-property-of-michael-schumacher-23037-gnv/

🏢 Meanwhile, Phillips is moving to a new location which has a lot of potential but may lack privacy this time. But let’s wait until the first sales in May.

⏰ Only Watch is also testing the grounds for the comeback which this time may be less eagerly anticipated by brands as well as the collectors.

💸 And a bit of a “sharing economy” scam from Japan to spice up the day with a warning to stay vigilant about your timepieces.

🎲 In our watch department, we present you the new AP Social club opened recently in Milano, the Frederique Constant x Seconde/seconde Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture, the new Octo Finissimo Automatic for the 140th anniversary of Bulgari, the H.Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon, and three exceptional timepieces from La Fabrique du Temps of Louis Vuitton.

Enjoy the PRIMETIME also available as a podcast, like, subscribe and leave your comments.

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