Eyewitness

When the dress made the woman


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At a time when women were embracing their femininity after the war years, Barbara Herrick wanted to change the way women felt about themselves through fashion. She speaks to Sonia Yee about Dior's New Look that took the world by storm, carving a path in Auckland's high-end fashion scene with her label, Babs Radon. And shares what it was like to meet Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II at The New Zealand Wool Awards.

"We risked everything for fashion," says Auckland designer Barbara Herrick of the celebration of femininity seen on the streets of central Auckland after the war years.

​Listen to the podcast to find out more about Barbara Herrick and Babs Radon

During the Second World War, women had entered the workforce in large numbers to help with the labour shortage. It was then that utilitarianism became the order of the day.

But the launch of Christian Dior's debut collection would reinvigorate the fashion industry.

Launched in 1947, just two years after the end of the war, Carmel Snow, former Editor in Chief for America's Harper's BAZAAR coined Dior's collection 'The New Look'.

It was an exciting expression of the female form, taking women's curves - and imaginations - to new heights.

Full skirts, curved collars, padded hip-lines and cinched in waists took a global hold of women's wardrobes, and New Zealand was no exception.

"Women suddenly looked so feminine after the bleak years of the war," recalls Herrick.

"You tried your best even if you might have a little cardigan on, which was the thing about New Zealand girls - always in their little cardigans."

Herrick wasn't one to don a cardigan herself. In fact, she loathed them.

Like many women, she was mesmerised by Dior's 'New Look' which signalled a social shift for women.

There was no longer any need to conserve fabric and leisure time was being brought back into everyday vocabulary.

But these new garments weren't always practical.

"The only problem was getting on and off trams because the skirts were quite long, and your heel would often catch in one of these layers. Very dangerous!" Herrick recalls.

Herrick, the daughter of a knitwear designer, was also studying fashion at Auckland's Druleigh College. She was determined to pick up the tools of the trade and had her sights set on starting a high-end fashion label.

After completing her course at Druleigh, she picked up odd jobs and also worked part-time for womenswear designer, Emma Knuckey, which would later set her up to go out on her own.

Go to this episode on rnz.co.nz for more details

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