Why It's Cool

Once deemed ugly or uncool among the fashion-conscious crowd, Birkenstocks now grace Paris Fashion Week runways and are the subject of some high-profile collaborations.

But why, all of a sudden, are Birkenstocks considered to be cool? How did they become what they are today, which is a sandal your grandparents wear while gardening while simultaneously also being worn by some of the most stylish people around? 

What better way to start than to go way back, to 1774, which is where it all started for the German sandal manufacturer. I think that alone is pretty cool already. That this brand has been around for almost 250 years, and is not only STILL active, but actually considered cool.

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Nothing got hyperactive 90’s and 2000’s kids to settle on the couch better than the intergalactic battles, valiant heroics, and epic animations packed into every episode of Dragon Ball Z.

Following the adventures of a good-natured alien named Goku, Dragon Ball Z is the sequel to the original Dragon Ball story written and illustrated by Akira Toriyama.

Between the inspirational tales of Goku defending the Earth from extraterrestrial villains and an immersive world of additional physical and digital media inspired by the franchise, Dragon Ball Z has become regarded as of the most influential anime of all time.

These days, you don’t even have to be a fan to at least know that spiky blondes mean business or have at least met one little kid who would clench their fists and try power up into “Super Saiyan” form.

In 2019, we see Dragon Ball Z referenced in more places than anyone could have ever imagined. The thirty-year-old series is as influential as Star Wars and Marvel Comics. Its blazing battles, mind-blowing transformations, and distinct visual tone can be found beyond the anime and now within contemporary lifestyle realms like fashion, music, video games, and even sports.

So *how exactly did this story about a monkey-tailed alien evolve into one of the most relevant and highest grossing media franchises of all time?

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When did the Space Age begin? In terms of astronomy, you can nail it down to 1957, when the Russians hurled a 183-pound polished sphere about the size of a beach ball away from Earth and into its orbit. Sputnik 1, the earth’s first artificial satellite, sparked a race to the cosmos between the United States and its Cold War adversary. NASA was established a year later, and in 1969 the US secured the crowning achievement by putting the first man on the moon. This period was a boon for technology and pushing the limits of humanity. But if you look at design, you’ll see America’s obsession with space predates these remarkable achievements. 

Established in 1936, Ray-Ban had made its name by designing sunglasses specifically for the Army.

In 1952, designer Raymond Stegeman shifted the companies eyes to the future with the Wayfarer. They were the first sunglasses to be made of plastic, and its lines were a reference to the iconic Cadillac tailfins. Another point of reference was the Eames Chair, another classic design born of the era. According to design critic Stephen Bayley, the “distinctive trapezoidal frame spoke a non-verbal language that hinted at unstable dangerousness, but one nicely tempered by the sturdy arms which, according to the advertising, gave the frames a ‘masculine look.’”

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In his 2003 novel, Pattern Recognition, William Gibson creates the coolest character ever to grace the pages of a book. Cayce Pollard is the world’s best coolhunter, and her highly astute ability to judge brands is largely due to the fact that she’s literally allergic to corporate logos and mascots.

She wears a series of uniforms referred to as “Cayce Pollard Units,” or CPUs. Gibson describes these as “things that could have been worn, to a general lack of comment, during any year between 1945 and 2000.” Her go-to items include shrunken Fruit of the Loom T-shirts, a Buzz Rickson MA-1 bomber jacket, and black Levi’s 501s with the arcuates on the back picked out and the branding on the buttons filed off.

It’s just one of many testaments to the humble jean’s ability to transcend trends. Its straight leg, regular waist, and enduring appeal will truly never go out of style. Of course, the main leg up Levi’s has on its competitors is a big differentiation point: They literally invented the modern jean.

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Timeless is a word so overused nowadays that its meaning has almost become redundant, but the Stan Smith is one of the few products that’s design has really stood the test of time, transcending trends, music genres, and subcultural movements. So many other brands have tried to copy its minimal aesthetic and adidas itself has dropped countless versions and collaborations, but almost 50 years since it first hit the court and it hasn’t lost any of its character.

In the fickle world of fashion, the Stan Smith opened up the floodgates for a new generation of female sneakerheads. You can pinpoint the moment when the stereotype of the so-called “fashion girl” went from Jimmy Choo heels to comfortable sneakers. It was those ten seconds when Phoebe Philo walked onto the catwalk to take her bow for Celine’s Fall/Winter 2012 runway show wearing an olive green turtleneck, straight cut black pants, and a pair of Stan Smiths. 

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The Margiela Tabi Boot celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Along the way, it's become a membership card among fashion's most elite dressers.

How Margiela's Tabi Boot Became a Status Symbol for Fashion's EliteThe “uncanny valley” is a robotics term dating back to Japanese professor Masahiro Mori in 1970. It hypothesizes that as a robot takes on more human characteristics — eyes, a face, five fingers, weird Terminator-esque skin — there’s a certain threshold where your response to the automaton turns from empathetic to strong revulsion.

In other words, there’s a line between barely human and fully human that tends to gross people out. And one particularly polarizing Japanese-inspired shoe from designer Martin Margiela may prove that fashion has an uncanny valley too.

Let’s go back to Paris in 1988. A time before the Internet and Instagram turned fashion into an integral part of pop culture. Back then, the industry was still a closely-guarded secret, only accessible to a privileged few. But even then, fashion had its iconoclasts, and Belgian designer Martin Margiela’s debut show marked a paradigm shift.

Margiela’s tabi boot, largely based on the affordable Japanese “jika-tabi” shoes still worn by Japanese construction workers, features a circular heel, metal clasps known as “kohase” at the rear closure, and a signature split toe at the front. The big toe goes on one side, with the remaining four housed in the other. They’re essentially upscale ninja shoes that give the foot a cloven hoof appearance.

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On “Empire State of Mind,” JAY-Z rapped, “I made the Yankees hat more famous than a Yankee can.” It’s a stunt, a boast typical in hip-hop that need not be examined literally. But he was on to something, even if he alone isn’t solely responsible for the ubiquity of the Yankees fitted. It’s bigger than a baseball team, somehow bigger than 27 World Series. Even for natives, it’s bigger than root, root, rooting for the hometeam. That logo and that hat have come to represent New York City as a whole, a wearable point of pride and symbol of aspiration that’s spread across the world. On this episode of “Why It’s Cool,” we’ll examine how part of a team uniform became one of the most iconic accessories around. 

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From the first time four wheels hugged the walls of an emptied out pool, to becoming a central part of pop culture and fashion, skateboarding has had a lifelong friend in Vans. The small deck shoe company out of Anaheim, Calif. was the earliest of adopters for the burgeoning sport as it established a legacy by placing its kicks on the feet of the Z-Boys, a group of California teens that would become the true godfathers of skating. Like the sport itself, Vans’ popularity has waxed and waned over the past 50 years. But today it’s both the quintessential skate shoe and a staple fit for anyone’s wardrobe. Both qualities are only possible because of Vans’ embracement of its past, and as long as that lasts, it’s hard to imagine Vans ever approaching the difficult times it has in the past.

On this episode of Why It’s Cool, we examine how Vans has made shoes so excellent, versatile, and affordable that you can find them on the feet of Frank Ocean in the White House or any kid looking for there next skate spot across the world. Vans’ core models are popular among many disparate crowds—what other shoe could be embraced by both cheerleaders and goths?—and yet that ubiquity somehow hasn’t hampered the brands’ identity. No matter what, Vans is a skate shoe. And by staying true to that culture, even when it wasn’t as popular, the company has set itself up for true authenticity, not the sort that’s thrown around as a buzzword.

Of course, this wasn’t just a faceless corporation making these moves. It was people, inside the company and out, that made this all possible. We talked to some of the most important players throughout the shoes’ journey, including Stacy Peralta, the seminal superstar of skating; Rian Pozzebon, the designer who helped guide the company back to its roots; and Brendon Babenzien, NOAH founder and former creative director of Supreme.

In case you missed it, you can check out all the episodes from the season on iTunes, Spotify, Stitcher or any of your favorite podcast apps.

Director of Editorial Video and Production, North America

J. Andrew Keegan

Director of Editorial

Jian Deleon

Producer and Editor

Sonia Manalili

Host

Ian Servantes

Special Thanks

Stacy Peralta

Rian Pozzebon

Brendon Babenzien

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On this week’s episodeof Why It's Cool, we dive deep into the divine territory of crystals—and it's as magical as you would imagine. Host Sydney Gore is joined by Vanessa Cuccia, Lisa Levine, Sadie Kadlec, Remington Guest, and Heather Haber. Together, we examine the effectiveness of crystals as an alternative healing method, the origins of their personal relationships with them, and how they all pivoted into making their careers revolve around these mystical materials.

During this episode, we also discuss the sudden emergence of crystals in the retail space and determine whether or not this is another passing trend. Is the hype all in our heads like the placebo effect? Guest and Haber weigh in on the fashion world's recent embrace of crystals and elaborate on how Advisory Board Crystals aims to modernize forms of the practice as a lifestyle essential.

While the commercialization of crystals has rubbed many people the wrong way, all of these experts believe that the healing properties at the root of it all will overpower all the negative perceptions. In fact, Cuccia argues that crystals are a real form of magic that we can see, feel, and touch.

Crystals have been integral to some cultures for hundreds of years and the benefits speak for themselves. As Kadlec explains while breaking down how she conducts her healing sessions, crystals are powerful tools for internal work that open a portal into self-discovery. Furthermore, crystals serve as aids in our personal healing processes.

Listen to the full episode above and stay tuned for a new episode of Why It’s Cool next week.

In case you missed it, the fifth episode of ‘Why It’s Cool’ explores the style evolution of IKEA Frakta Bag.

Director of Editorial Video and Production, North America J. Andrew Keegan

Director of Editorial Jian Deleon

Producer and Editor Sonia Manalili

Host Sydney Gore

Special Thanks

Vanessa Cuccia

Lisa Levine

Sadie Kadlec

Remington Guest

Heather Haber

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It’s hard to believe that a $1.49 bag made entirely of polypropylene could be so influential. So much so that in 2017 Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, introduced a $2,145 version in leather that set the internet ablaze.

Writer and host Sachin Bhola investigates IKEA's Frakta bag. He speaks to a handful of sources to examine the bag’s origins, its appropriation by the fashion world, the resurgence of everyday totes, and its continued popularity to get to the heart of how the IKEA bag mysteriously became one of the most relevant products of our time.

First is a conversation with Iina Vuorivirta, an in-house designer at IKEA, who recounts the bag's beginnings. Next, Jackie Skye Kim, the former associate fashion director of Barneys New York, speaks to the moment function gave way to form through the lens of Balenciaga's Gvasalia. Then, Michael Cherman of Chinatown Market talks about the Frakta-inspired cap he produced in collaboration with Pleasures and discusses the bag's modern-day reimagining, including Virgil Abloh's take on it.

Listen to the full episode above and stay tuned for new episodes of Why It's Cool each week.

For more, check out last week's episode on how Dickies made trend-proof trousers.

Director of Editorial Video and Production, North AmericaJ. Andrew KeeganDirector of EditorialJian DeleonProducer and Editor Sonia ManaliliHostSachin BholaSpecial ThanksIina Vuorivirta

Jackie Skye Kim

Michael Cherman

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