Pure Dog Talk

107 – How To Properly Bathe and Dry Your Dog with Laura Reeves


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Proper Bathing and Drying of Dogs with Laura Reeves
Our bathing dogs topic today is a thank you for Facebook Fan #2000 Joann Frisch! Joann says she owns a grooming salon, so she’s always up for grooming topics.
We covered pretty basic steps in Episode 73 and working with wire coats in Episode 88.
Importance of Bathing and Drying
But I worked pet grooming for a number of years and the one thing it teaches you is how VERY important bathing and drying are to the success of grooming any dog. Everybody starts out as a bather in pet grooming or as a professional handler’s assistant. And there is a reason for that.
A half clean, half dry dog is going to get sent back to the tub. Every time. The reasons would seem sort of self explanatory but considering the number of them I have sent back over the years and the number of client dogs who arrive clearly suffering the effects of the same malady, I’m going to hedge my bets on this.
There is no place for half way clean and dry, even for a pet dog, never mind a show dog. While your Italian Greyhound isn’t going to take as long as your Newfoundland, they all need the same level of care.
So let’s start at the top.
Nail Trim
Do it first. Get it out of the way before you have to trim feet around too long toenails. We’ve discussed nails before and I’ll just say it again briefly. Dogs feed off YOUR nerves. If you’re scared you’ll make the dog bleed, he’s going to figure there is a reason to be scared and panic and make the entire process a nightmare. Patience fearless leader, patience. Firm, fair and consistent. And always win the battle of wills. Just because your dog doesn’t *want* his toenails trimmed is NO reason not to do it.
Anal Glands
ONLY if needed. And if you don’t know how, learn the proper method! We’ve included a video link on the website to a veterinarian demonstrating the proper procedure. Most large breed active dogs will not need this procedure. Smaller breeds and less active animals or those that are overweight can experience more difficulty. For obvious reasons, do this *before* the bath!
Ears
Clean, pluck if needed. If you need to pull hair from the ear canal, be sure to clean it thoroughly afterward to prevent bacterial or fungal infection. Chlorhexadine ear cleaner is absolutely fabulous for preventing and clearing up ear problems.
Teeth
Do they need scaling?? Now is a good time to do it. Don’t have a tooth scaler? I was taught years ago how to use the thin edge of dime to achieve the same goal in a safe manner for dogs and humans. Use your tool to *gently* get to the gum line and pull down (or up) and away from the gums. I generally focus on the canines and any nasty buildup on the molars. Chlorhex makes a *fabulous* pre-soaked gauze pad for more regular cleaning of teeth.
BRUSH
As noted in previous shows, don’t wash a matted dog. Get the dog fully brushed to the skin, all over his body. Testicle mats, toe mats, belly mats, armpit mats…. Get them out BEFORE you bathe. Use a comb, use brushing spray, use Cowboy Magic, use a mat splitter if you have to, but make sure every part of the dog’s body is thoroughly brushed *to the skin*! You should be able to pull the dog’s hair back and see skin, not clumpy hair, on even the most densely coated dogs.
After nails, ears, anal glands, teeth and brushout, THEN you can get the bath started.
Bathing
Alrighty, on to the actual bathing part. Make sure ALL of the dog is wet (assuming you’re doing a full bath). And wet to the skin. For some coat types, this takes some effort, using a good spray attachment on the hose and really working the water in the coat. Use lukewarm water as a general rule.
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Pure Dog TalkBy Laura Reeves

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