When most interior designers in the Denver metro area start thinking about high-end furniture, their first instinct is to head to the Denver Design Center, also known as the Denver Design District, a sprawling showroom complex with dozens of showrooms representing hundreds of manufacturers that has been a destination for interior design since the mid-1980s.  It’s packed with well-known brands located in the heart of Denver’s design community.

If you’re searching for truly one-of-a-kind furniture, something built specifically for your space, your lifestyle, and your vision, I think there’s a compelling alternative.

I’m Brian Benham, owner and operator of Benham Design Concepts, a full-service custom furniture design and fabrication studio. I work out of my studio here in Colorado, designing and handcrafting custom furniture and architectural elements in a range of materials: wood, glass, stone, and metal. My goal with every piece is to blur the line between fine furniture and fine art.

This isn’t a showroom. There’s no high-pressure sales rep, no confusing product catalog pricing sheet, and no backorders or manufacturer lead times to negotiate. It’s just me in my studio, offering personalized service and executing your vision.

The Denver Design Center does one thing very well: it offers a curated range of product lines. But at the end of the day, you’re still choosing from what already exists, the same options every other interior designer picks from, the same pieces you’ve probably seen in a dozen other homes. You might get to pick a fabric or a stain sample, but the fundamental design is already locked in.

When you work with me, every piece starts from scratch, or really, from a concept. I work with you from that very first idea, designing furniture that fits your exact space, your exact needs, and your exact aesthetic. Nothing comes from a catalog. Nothing has been built before. Your piece is yours alone.

I approach every project as both a craftsman and an artist. I don’t just want to build something functional; I want to build something visually striking, something that adds real character to a room. Whether it’s a dining table with live-edge wood and hand-forged metal, or a media console that pairs stone with glass, I want the piece to command attention.

If you want furniture that guests will ask about, this is where you’ll find it.

One thing people don’t always think about when they commission from me is the relationship. At a design center showroom, your point of contact is a sales rep working on behalf of a manufacturer somewhere else entirely. That person has never touched the piece they’re selling you.  If something gets backordered, or comes in wrong or broken, you are relying on them to hopefully negotiate a resolution with t

After two decades of building custom furniture, I’ve learned that the difference between a beautiful dining set and a truly functional one often comes down to a few critical inches. I’ve seen too many tables become uncomfortable because someone didn’t account for cushion squish, and now you feel like a little kid sitting at a giant table, or chairs that look perfect but leave people’s knees jammed against the table apron. Today, I want to share the height guidelines I use in my workshop to ensure every piece I build isn’t just beautiful, but actually works for the people who’ll use it every day.

Let me start with what I consider the baseline: the standard dining table. In my shop, I typically build these at 28-30 inches high, with 30 inches being my sweet spot for most clients. This is because it works for the average person sitting in a chair that’s 17-18 inches from the floor to the seat.

But here’s what I tell every client: “standard” is just a starting point. I’ve built dining tables as low as 27 inches for clients who prefer a more relaxed, casual dining experience, and as high as 32 inches for taller individuals who find themselves constantly hunching over conventional tables.

Different tables serve different purposes, and their heights reflect that. Let me walk you through the main categories I work with:

This is your ideal range for dining table height. Whether I’m building a farmhouse table for a family of six or an elegant pedestal table for two, this range accommodates comfortable eating, conversation, and the occasional homework session or board game.

These have exploded in popularity over the last decade, and I understand why. Counter-height tables create a more casual, social atmosphere—perfect for kitchens where people gather while cooking, or for small spaces where the table doubles as a food prep surface. I typically build these at 36 inches to match standard kitchen counter height.  However, for the taller clients, I will push this to 38-40 inches for their comfort, or allow for a table to stand at for entertaining, similar to a bar-height table.

The challenge with counter-height tables is finding the right seating. You’ll need counter stools at 24-30″ inches high, which puts people’s feet dangling unless you incorporate a footrest (which I always recommend).

When clients ask for a true bar experience in their home, I build it at 42 inches. These tables are statement pieces—they create vertical interest in a room and are fantastic for entertaining. But they’re not for everyone. You need bar stools at the lowest 28 inches, mid-range 30 inches, and for the extra tall, you may want to go all the way to 33″.  I always caution clients that these heights can be challenging for children, elderly family members, or anyone with mobility issues.

A table is only as good as the chairs that accompany it, and this is where I see many people, even other furniture makers, go wrong. The standard chair seat height for most situations is 17-18 inches from the floor. I typically build at 18 inches because it pairs perfectly with a 30-inch table and accommodates most adults comfortably.

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The standard height for a dining chair seat is around 18″ inches from the floor to the top of the seat.  This height accommodates a 28″ to 30″ height dining table.  The 10″ to 12″ space between the top of the seat and the top of the dining table allows for comfortable movements of the diners.  It also allows adequate space for an apron around a dining table, typically no wider than 4″.  Not all dining tables feature aprons, but many tables rely on them to strengthen the table legs and prevent them from wobbling.

A good rule of thumb when pairing a dining chair with a dining table is to allow 10″ to 12″ between the top of the chair seat and the top of the table. Most people find this to be a comfortable dining experience, with plenty of leg room and room for a table apron if needed.  This also allows the diner to sit at a comfortable height, allowing them to rest their forearms on the tabletop when eating.

As mentioned above, your standard dining chair is 18″. However, dining tables can range from 28″ to 30″, breaking the 10″ to 12″ rule of thumb. If a 30″ dining table is paired with an 20″ chair, the table top may feel too low and uncomfortable to dine at. This is why many chair manufacturers make dining chairs in a range of sizes between 18″ and 20″ to accommodate a 30″ tall table.  There are also dining tables available for taller people, coming in at 32″ with a chair height available up to 22″.

Chair manufacturers make various-height chairs and barstools to accommodate many of the special table heights you may encounter.  I highly recommend sitting at a few different table heights with a few different chair heights to find the best combination for you.  As a custom furniture maker, I can also custom-make any chair and table height combination you may need.

A standard dining table is 28″ to 30″ tall.  Chairs paired with standard dining tables should be between 17″ and 20″ tall.  There are exceptions to this standard. If you are extra tall or short, there are chairs between 16″ and 23″ for dining tables.  You also always have the option to have your table and chairs custom-made to suit your needs.

Counter-height or counter-tall tables range between 34″ and 36″ tall, with the average counter-height table being 36″.  A good chair pairing would be between 24″ and 27″, with a sweet spot of 25″ tall barstool.

Bar-height tables range in height from 40″ to 42″.  A good chair pairing would be between 30″ and 33″. The most common bar-height table is 42″, giving a good bar stool or chair height sweet spot at 32″ to the top of the seat.

For extra-tall tables that are between 42″ and 47″ tall, a good chair pairing would be between 30″ and 36″. The most common bar-height table is 46″, giving a good bar stool or chair height sweet spot of 36″ tall.

While there is no one-size-fits-all rule of thumb for a standard countertop overhang, it’s crucial to consider your specific use case and aesthetic design choices.  Many solid surface countertop manufacturers have standardized a 1-1/2″ overhang for kitchen cabinets, but this might not be ideal for everyone.  Other variables to consider include the style of cabinets or appliances paired with it and, most importantly, your preferences and needs.

Typically, at a minimum, you will want your countertop to overhang enough to cover your cabinet’s drawers and doors.  This not only enhances the visual appeal but also serves a practical purpose.  For instance, if your drawer fronts are three-quarters of an inch thick, you will want your countertops to extend at a minimum 3/4″ past the front of your cabinets.  However, I would recommend extending the counter overhang to a maximum of 1-1/2″ for aesthetic purposes and to give a little buffer for accessories such as rubber bumpers to prevent doors from slamming shut.  Likewise, if you have Euro-style cabinets where the drawers are inset, a 1-1/2″ overhang may look a little excessive, so I would consider a 3/4″ overhang in that situation.

If custom cabinets are built outside the standard base cabinet depths, you will want to discuss an appropriate counter depth for your situation with your fabricator.  This involves considering the specific dimensions of your cabinets and the intended use of your kitchen or bathroom.  A typical kitchen base cabinet is 24″ deep, and many solid surface countertop manufacturers are accustomed to making their countertops 25-1/2″ deep as a standard.  This setup will also yield a 1-1/2″ countertop overhang. While most solid surface countertop manufacturers use the 1-1/2″ as a standard, I have run across a few shops that have a 1-1/4″ overhang as their standard.  So, if you have a strong preference and are getting custom cabinets, it’s important to ensure that the counter depth and overhang are tailored to your specific needs and preferences.

Additionally, a standard bathroom vanity cabinet is 21″ deep.  However, this is a much looser standard than kitchen cabinets.  Bathroom vanities are regularly sold with varying depths ranging between 18″ and 24″ with various cabinet base styles.  With this variation in available vanity sizes, it is important to specify your counter depth and overhang to go with your vanity choice.  When choosing a countertop for your vanity, I would still follow the rules of thumb outlined in this article for choosing an appropriate countertop overhang.

As discussed earlier, I recommended a minimum front overhang of 3/4″ to match your door and drawer thickness.  But what about the sides of the cabinet and where they meet appliances?

For countertop overhangs next to stoves, fridges, and other appliances, I would recommend a minimum of a 1/8″ overhang and a maximum of 1/4″.  The minimum of 1/8″ ensures that your countertop will cover the edge of the cabinets.  We all know that walls are not always square and flat, which can throw off how square your cabinets and countertops fit.  Yes, a master installer will scribe your cabinets and countertops to the wall, but sometimes things are so far off that they need a little fudge factor to ensure a good-looking fit.  A minimum of 1/8″ will be aesthetically pleasing.

I would not go further than a 1/4″ for the max overhang next to an appliance.  You d

Tables come in various heights depending on their intended use and design.  It’s important to note that these are general guidelines, and the actual height of a table can vary depending on the manufacturer, style, and regional preferences. When choosing a table, consider the intended use, the chairs or seating that will accompany it, and the overall aesthetic and ergonomics you desire for your space.  Most importantly, if you need a specific table, you can always have a Bespoke Furniture Maker design and build a custom table for your specific needs.

A standard Dining Room Table is typically between 28 and 30 inches tall, with the average table being around 30″ in height.  Some dining tables come as tall as 32″

These tables are best paired with dining chairs with a seat height between 17 and 20 inches.  When selecting a chair for your dining table, consider the apron width, the table height, and the size of the people most likely to use the table. Ensure they do not hit their knees on the table apron, and the tabletop is about elbow height.  +/- an inch or so.  This will ensure a pleasurable dining experience.

If you need an ADA-compliant table, it should be no taller than 34 inches. The distance between the bottom of the apron and the floor should be at least 27 inches for proper knee clearance.  The distance from the edge of the table to any center support should be at least 19 inches, with a width between table legs of 30 inches. For more info, check out my post on ADA-Compliant Dining Tables, which have specific requirements.

Counter-height tables range between 34 and 36 inches. The most common is 36″, which is about the same height as kitchen countertops.

Counter-height tables are best paired with chairs and stools that range in seat height between 24 and 27 inches.  A 25″ seat height generally pairs well with a 36″ tall table.  However, when selecting seating for counter-height tables, consider knee clearance under the apron of the table, as well as allowing the elbow to land about the same height as the tabletop.  Also, consider whether or not your feet rest comfortably on a crossbar. Dangling feet are uncomfortable and cause the edge of the seat to cut off circulation to the legs.  In the picture above, the bar stool selected is too tall. It crowds the knees.

Pub or Bar Height Tables range between 40 and 42 inches.  The most common height is 42 inches, which is the standard height of a commercial bar.

Bar tables are paired best with bar stools that have a seat height between 28 and 33 inches, with the ideal height being 32 inches, as this allows a comfortable 10 inches between the top of the bar and the seat of the bar stool.  Another consideration in selecting a bar stool is a lower cross brace that acts as a footrest, since you cannot touch the floor with your feet.  These footrests are typically located between 16 and 20 inches down from the top of the seat.  It has been reported that the most comfortable spacing is 18″.

Extra Tall Tables are between 42 and 47 inches tall. The most common is 44″

These tables are not as common as bar-height tables and are usually found in boutique restaurants and coffee shops.  Oftentimes, they are not paired with barstools, as their intended use is to stand at them or casually lean against them.  However, if you want to equip them with bar stools, they a