If the US-China trade war has a no-man’s land, then maybe it’s somewhere near a truckstop not far from the Lo Wu border crossing that regulates traffic between mainland China and Hong Kong.

Finbarr Bermingham travels up to a once-busy truckers’ diner to meet Kwok Yip-biu, who has driven trucks back and forth over the border for 30 years. Kwok recalls the “golden era” of Hong Kong as a gateway for trade into and out of mainland China, and how, lately, the trade war has put the brakes on the…