California Wine Country

Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines founder and winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Greg is coming from the winery, where they are busy with harvest time. He is going right back too, after the show.

He was a chemist and did some work in early Aids research and then went back to school in food science and enology. Greg had the good fortune to work at Beaulieu Vineyards under André Tchelistcheff. They had similar technical backgrounds. André challenged Greg, telling him that he would learn the heart and soul of wine if he came to work for him, rather than stay in the lab. Greg turned out to become one of André’s greatest disciples.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They are drinking a Colombard, which was once the most widely planted white wine grape up until the early ‘7. Now, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most planted.

This 2022 Colombard is from two vineyards in Russian River Valley, planted respectively in 1902 and 1961. “It has a lot of bracing acidity,” and is only about 10.8% alcohol. Greg and his wife were working with owners of an abandoned Colombard vineyard, to restore it. Then, Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg asked Greg to make their house wine. The only proviso was, no Chardonnay and it had to be from Sonoma County. Colombard was perfect for that, but after the pandemic there was too much of it so they relabeled it. They named it Marchelle, after their wives Mara and Michelle. Their daughter Sophia designed the label.

Marchelle wines are not really widely available but the best way to get them is at a tasting. Book that at their website.

The Historic Vineyard Society will hold its main event in Lodi, California. There are actually a lot of old vines around Lodi.

Evan Damiano is the winemaker for Greg La Follette now. Evan was on CWC earlier this year and he gives credit to Greg and André’s legacy and influence over his own work.

Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Mike was last on CWC on this episode of on September 15, 2023.

In 1979 there was hardly any Pinot Noir planted in the Russian River Valley. When Mike decided to open this property, it was risky because the region had not yet developed its reputation. Other better financed growers made a bigger impression. Mike describes their secret to success as a balance between ignorance and passion. They started making wine in the garage in 1978. His late partner Mike was the only man he knew who could fall asleep in his chair holding a wine glass and never spill a drop.

Mike says this has been an “interesting” year. In the 1980s the wine tourists would visit a winery and buy a case. Now the consumer has changed and a new generation wants a story, an experience and a photo op. Then, maybe, they buy a bottle, not a case. That is why this show is so important because the market is going through a great transition. People’s ability to appreciate the best wine depends on good information. As Mike says, change is inevitable. Wine sales are down but it is cyclical, but wine is getting better and better every year, says Dan.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

This year’s harvest is completed. The harvest has gone well, for Mike. The heat spells were stressful but the job is done. The vineyard demands 12 months of work all year, but the action happens in the three weeks at harvest time. Dan points out that a vineyard can be changed a little at a time, such as making adjustments to trellises. They are located on Barlow Lane at the intersection with Occidental Road.

Dan Berger is in the studio today with Sonoma County Harvest Fair Winners on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger had decades of experience as a wine judge and he was a judge in this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair competition. He describes the new organization this year, where the judges only had 25 or 30 of one type of wine, instead of 55 or 60 of the same type. Dan likes this because the judges can get tired on too much of the same varietal. So, with a limited exposure to a single type of wine, the palette has a chance to regenerate. Also, the judging of each type is more spread out across all the judges.

What is the difference between a Gold Medal and a Sweepstakes? asks Steve. The Sweepstakes is a second round, more like a final round taste-off, where different varietals are against each other. This can be more difficult to understand. Dan says take it with a grain of salt. Gold Medal is good enough as a winning designation.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

The 2023 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc is the Sweepstakes winner. Jeff Hinchliffe made it at Hanna. It is from Russian River Valley. There is not a lot of Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc available because Jeff has been contracting for all the best fruit. Not only does it smell and taste right for the variety. Instead of favoring the strong herbaceous components, he favors the tropical fruit. It is rich with a great aftertaste. It sells for about $20 but Bottle Barn has it for $13.99. Bottle Barn has all he award-winning wines in the store, with the awards listed on the wine display.

Next is a 2022 Shone Farm wine, made by the students at SRJC. It is 13.9% ABV, so lower than average. It has fruit and spice flavors. The vineyard has been in the ground for 35 years. It’s a wine of personality, it is balanced with structure and good acidity.

It is remarkable that the students at SRJC have won a Gold Medal for their wine, in competition with all the other great winemakers in Sonoma County.

Barry Herbst is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about Harvest Fair Winners available at Bottle Barn. Barry is a frequent guest and his last time on the show was this episode last December to talk about sparkling wines. He has brought some winning wines from this year’s Harvest Fair.

This year there were two little late heat waves and harvest was hectic. There were whites and reds coming into the wineries all at once. The Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine winners have been published on the website. The Sweepstakes winners will be announced at the event, Saturday Oct. 12. Then there will be another episode of this show with more of those winning wines.

Dan Berger served as one of the judges. The competition is entirely for Sonoma County. The judges are all locals or people with a long history of association with Sonoma County wines. Also, they have more time to evaluate the wines. Deborah del Fiorentino does a great job running the competition.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They taste the Capo Isetta Rosé that won a double Gold Medal. Three of their wines won medals. This wine sells for $15.99 per bottle. The grapes are Pinot Noir from Carneros and is fairly dry. Barry says that given the rising price of grapes, it is harder and harder to get Rosés for less than $20. Everyone understands that good quality Pinot Noir grapes are expensive and are mostly going to making reds.

The firstHarvest Fair was in 1975 and today it is one of the premier regional wine competitions in the country. Dan appreciates the organization that gave the judges plenty of time and also a rotation of wines, so they did not get tired of any of them.

Dan and Tom.

Tom Birdsall, owner of Black Kite Cellars, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is Tom’s first time on the show however their winemaker Jeff Gaffner was on the show on this episode of March 11, 2020.

Black Kite Cellars began when Tom and his wife Rebecca went on a cycling tour through Burgundy. They were just consumers of wine at that time. Then in the late 1990s his wife’s father bought a vineyard in Anderson Valley and planted the 12 acres to Pinot. Not all the fruit was sold. He had some leftover grapes in 2003 and found a winery, Handley Cellars, to produce some wine from that harvest. Then Rebecca made the plan started Black Kite Cellars as a small family-owned winery. Tom mentions that they were lucky to find Jeff Gaffney to be the winemaker, right at the beginning. Now they are specialized in Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley. The coast has weather conditions perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  They begin by tasting a Chardonnay that Dan calls “substantial” and “opulent.”

The Black Kite is a bird, a small hawk, which is Rebecca’s father’s favorite bird. The local was known as the black-shouldered kite, now known as the white-tailed kite. Dan mentions that this bird is good at controlling voles and mice which can wreck vines. Another word for this bird is “angel hawk” which winemaker Jeff Gaffner remembers calling it. This is because of the way they hover over the land while hunting. So Angel Hawk became the name of their reserve label.

They only make about 3000 cases per year and they are in local shops and restaurants. They also now have a new tasting room in the town of Freestone. It is small but very well appointed. It is also right at the corner of the vineyard. They are open 7 days a week and they prefer appointments. The West Sonoma Coast, the newest appellation in the county, is their specialty. Their current production is eight Pinot Noirs and four Chardonnays. The wine they are tasting is a Pinot from Roberts Road vineyard, in Petaluma Gap, that the Sangiacomo family owns.

Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before. His last appearance was this episode on November 17, 2023. He has a long history of making high quality wines from his small properties.

He grew up surfing in Israel and then, looking for good waves, he went to surf the Atlantic beaches. In France, he discovered wine, then he heard about UC Davis, came to study in the program and, “never looked back.” He had a series of winemaking jobs and started his own vineyard

On West Side Road he has about five acres where he grows about 40% of the grapes he uses at Longboard. His neighbors are the Rocchioli family, and their famous vineyard. He feels lucky that they sell some grapes to him. As neighbors, their kids played sports together.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They begin tasting the Rocchioli Vineyard Chardonnay. He wants people to consider aging this white wine. A well-made white wine, not over-oaked and doesn’t have residual sugar, it gets a “sun-dried linen” character, as one of his professors described it.

They also taste a Syrah, which reminds Dan that all these wines need some time in the bottle. Wines are like cakes in the oven, says Oded. You have to have patience for the wine to develop complexity. Dan says that if you open it and taste it two days later, it can also open up a lot.

They have a cellar, a lounge and vineyard in Healdsburg. The place used to be the Magnolia Cannery, then it was Clos du Bois winery, and later under other brands. Oded says his job title could be “vinegar stopper” because wine will occur naturally and also turn quickly to vinegar if you’re not careful. You can actually observe their cellar operations and get close to the process.

Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Dan Berger is back on California Wine Country after some vacation travel and today he joins Steve Jaxon with some thoughts about harvest time and some wines to taste.

Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon will talk about harvest time today and taste some wines that Dan has brought.  We were going to have Deborah Del Fiorentino on to talk about her organization of wine competitions including the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. But we will have to reschedule her. In the meantime, Dan Berger has brought some wines from his extensive personal cellar.

This year Spring was cool and the vines matured more slowly than usual. It took a long time for the vines to come out of hibernations. Then, after bud break, we had come brutally warm weather, then cool again. There wasn’t enough rain to do any damage. Then late summer, we had 100 degree days but much colder at night, which favors retention of acid.

Growers and winemakers are facing a choice. Either pick early, save acidity and hope for flavor, or pick late and need to adjust later. With all the variables in play, Dan says, “…it will be a chicken with three legs.”

Here is a California Wine Country bonus track, it’s Buddy Hackett on Carson in the ‘70s on the subject of a 3-legged chicken.

Some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir will be harvested early. But if you are a winery purchasing fruit from a grower for the first time, “…you’re on your own,” says Dan. The decision of when to pick may also be affected by a labor shortage.

They taste a vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from Etude Vineyards, grown at Hallberg vineyards.

Dennis McCarter, owner and winemaker of McCarter Cellars, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is his second time as a guest on CWC, the last time was this episode back in January of this year. Dan Berger is away again this week and Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio.

Dennis tells about having taken a course at SRJC about pairing wine and food, which left him with the desire to start making wine. He started by making five gallons of Barbera in his garage. As he continued to make wine, he started winning awards, so he decided to go pro. That coincided with his transition out of the insurance business.

The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc came from Rogers vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. The location is on the cooler side of the area.

Dennis eventually finished enology studies at SRJC. His wines started winning awards right away. They continue to win recently. The inaugural Pinot Noir earned 98 points and took best of class at the North Coast Wine Challenge, sponsored by the Press Democrat and his Gewürztraminer took silver there. His Rosé, Pinkish, took a gold medal at Experience Rosé challenge.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Dennis is involved in a group of American Vintners that meets quarterly. He is also on the board of the Sonoma Library Foundation, to do fund raising. With them, he helped organize Tasting Diversity, where they hosted events to raise exposure for African-American owned wineries. For more information about Tasting Diversity, visit this page at the Sonoma Library Foundation and scroll down to the middle of the page where it is listed among their other events.

There is a discount code WINERADIO for listeners to get 15% off.

Dennis has accomplished a lot as a winemaker after only two years. His Gewurtztraminer is tasty and Dennis attributes its success to his method that includes he and his wife pressing the grapes with their own feet. His favorite wines to make are Pinot Noir and Zin, and aromatic whites like Gewurtztraminer.

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McCarter Cellars will have a tasting room by the end of the year, in a location across from where Carol Shelton Wines is located. Wait for news by the end of harvest season. That is starting to get busy now.

Dan, Janice and Jamie.

Janis McDonald and Jamie Peters are here to talk about Winesong! 2024 on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Winesong! takes place Sept. 6-7, 2024 at the Little River Inn. It is the annual fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation.

Winesong! Began in 1985 as a small wine tasting in a parking lot and grew year after year. It has always been a benefit for health care on the north coast.

Dan Berger has been going to this event for a long time. The wineries that participate are specialized in making very high quality wine. The scenery is also spectacular on the site and all around in the area.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

For several years Winesong has been in the botanical garden. That location is being reorganized and they hope to return there as early as next year. There is a strong sense of community at this event. Friends see each other there every year. Everyone enjoys supporting the Mendocino hospital and health care facilities.

There are two musical groups. Tenor Madness, a jazz band, plays Friday. On Saturday a rock cover band called the Casper Kings will play hits from the 80s and later.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Dan Berger notes that over the last 5 years, Anderson Valley wines have improved tremendously. So have Mendocino wines, generally, in the last decade.

The tasting and the music, the food, all on Saturday. But Friday afternoon is the Pinot Noir celebration. It used to be just Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs but since 2015 they have opened it to other regions that make Pinot Noir, like Willamette, the Sonoma Coast and Central Coast.

One thing that Dan appreciates about Winesong is that you get a chance to taste excellent wines from producers that you have never heard of before.

Winemaker Carol Shelton is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. CWC co-host Dan Berger is away this week. Carol is one of our most distinguished winemakers and a regular on this show. Her last time here was last January, in this episode with Dan Berger and with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon.

Carol Shelton graduated from UC Davis in 1978. This year will be her 48th harvest, and her 25th harvest for her own brand. There were a few years where she worked on two harvests in a year, in the northern and southern hemisphere. Carol Shelton worked for Mondavi, in Australia, in the Central Valley, for Rodney Strong for 20 years, for the Windsor Wines label.

Zinfandel is her favorite varietal. It makes up about 70% of her production now. She wanted to show the world that Zin could be as noble a grape as Pinot and Cab. Old vines of Zin have a unique concentration of flavor.

Carol Shelton Wines is located in a business park on Coffey Lane. This weekend she will be bottling a port that has been in the barrels since 2015. She calls it Tawny Sonoma. You can’t use the name Port anymore. That is the same as other geographical names that are protected like Sherry and Burgundy.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

The name Wild Thing for her Zinfandel made with naturally occurring yeast, happened almost accidentally. There was one barrel that was not inoculated with yeast, and they put the words “wild thing” on the barrel. When they put it on a bottle, it sold like hotcakes. So that is how the brand was born. It was in the Top 100 Wines in the Wine Spectator, along with two other of her wines. There is also a 2023 Wild Thing Chardonnay which they are tasting. There is a little Viogner blended in, to give it some tropical notes. It is unusual, in that it is neither the steely type nor the buttery type. There are actually about 8 yeasts, each one brings some different flavors and she blends them all together before bottling.

They even source some fruit from Southern California, from Cucamonga. Their vines are over 100 years old. They are old vines that are knee high with roots running 50 feet down.

They also taste a Coquille Blanc, which is named for shellfish, and reflects her family coat of arms which has shells on it, for the name Shelton. The fruit all comes from Paso Robles.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Carol describes a game that her mother played with her. She set up blind tastings of different herbs and she had to describe the flavors and identify them. She liked the combination of art and science in winemaking.

Then they taste the Rendez-Vous 2023 Rosé. “My Rosé is not one of those wimpy pale ones.” All the flavor is in the skin and this one spends 2 days on the skins. It is a rather dark red, for a Rosé and goes well with any kind of food.  Modeled after a French Tavel Rosé, it is made of Carignane grapes.