California Wine Country

Steve, Ben, Yolanda and Olli.

Ben Papapietro and his wife Yolanda join Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away today, visiting the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival, which we talked about on this episode two weeks ago. Ben is a co-founder of the Papapietr0-Perry winery. This is Ben and Yolanda’s first time on CWC.

Ben Papapietro started in his basement in San Francisco as a home winemaker. He had a friend, Bruce Perry, who worked with Ben in the delivery of the San Francisco Chronicle. They wanted to make Pinot but there was hardly any fruit at that time. Another friend, Burt Williams, also helped him get some Pinot fruit. But they made a lot of Cabernet Franc blends and Zinfandel. In 1990 he got a really good source of Pinot fruit. Then his partner talked him into opening a professional winery in 1997. Early in his winemaking career, Ben did some harvests with Burt Williams, the co-founder of Williams-Selyem, who was a mentor to Ben. He was one of the local winemakers who started producing Pinot Noir in Sonoma County.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

They are tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir, a vineyard designate from Peter’s Vineyard. It is in the high southern hills with the famous Goldridge soil that makes the region famous.

Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio today. Her t-shirt says “near perfect” and it has a story. Ben’s partner made the t-shirt that reproduces the comments of wine reviewers who liked their wine. Bruce Perry was Ben’s partner and very close friend. He passed away a couple of years ago.

Papapietro-Perry is participating in the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience this weekend. But he and his wife are taking 80 people on a cruise up the Douro River in Portugal. They have organized several other cruises with as many as 140 people with them. They visit a lot of wineries and taste a lot of wine.

Ben grew up in the Mission district of San Francisco and visited Italy several times to see relatives on both sides of his family.

Papapietro-Perry has a “Light and Bright” club, which is for Rosé and Chardonnay. On June 14th there is an event called “Wine, Cheese and Chocolate.” Even during Covid they did a once-a-week live show that kept people involved. And in July there is the Papapietro-Perry Lobster and Chardonnay Festival.

Next they taste a Chardonnay which is a lighter style, fruit forward with a nice spicy finish that lingers. Ben also brought a Pinot Noir, made from the 777 clone grown in four different vineyards with different growing conditions.

Bettina from Laurel Glen Vineyard is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Bettina’s father Peter M. F. Sichel recently passed away at 102. He was an old friend of Dan Berger who credits him with great contributions to winemaking, in Germany and in the US. Dan wrote a review of Peter’s book called “The Secrets of My Life: Vintner, Soldier, Prisoner, Spy.” He was instrumental in making Blue Nun wine popular, a dry white wine from Germany.

Dan describes the story of Blue Nun as a story of the Atomic Age. There is a bottle of it on the cover of the Fleetwood Mac album Rumors and there is a Beastie Boys song called Blue Nun. Blue Nun was very popular in the 1970s. The brand ran radio advertisements nationally that were written and recorded by Stiller & Meara. Here is one of them:

Laurel Glen is on top of Sonoma Mountain. It is a remarkable property. The fact that people would plant Cabernet up there is “outrageous” says Dan. It makes a special kind of wine. Bettina says it’s a great site for Cabernet. In the 1990s, Cabernet was a much more restrained, a low-alcohol wine with high acidity. That is still the Lauren Glen style.

The vineyard was first planted to Cabernet in the 1960s. They are located on a plateau. The Sonoma Mountain AVA is on the east side of the mountain. The west side of the mountain is now the Petaluma Gap AVA. The mountain blocks the wind and fog. They don’t achieve the degree of ripeness that Napa Cabernets do, which produces what Dan calls a richer, oaky, more concentrated and higher in alcohol.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Next for tasting is a Riesling that comes from a vineyard on the central coast near Monterrey. They are the last grapes that come into the winery, after all the other grapes. That shows what a long maturation process these grapes require. Dan can think of only about 5 vineyards in California that produce high quality dry Riesling and this is one of them. They make three Cabernets, a Rosé and some Gruner Veltliner.

Barbara Barrielle

Barbara Barrielle calls in to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival 2025 coming May 16-18. She was a guest on CWC last January on this episode when the Anderson Valley Winegrowers were promoting the International White Wine Festival in February.

The Pinot Noir Festival has been going on for 26 years. Anderson Valley is home to some picturesque small towns and to several vineyards. Its cool climate is ideal for Pinot Noir.

The Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival runs from Friday May 16 through Sunday May 18. Get all the information at the Valley AV WINES website, and get tickets at the Eventbrite page for the 2025 Festival. Use the Promo Code MENDOCINO to get 30% off tickets to the Barbeque and the Grand Tasting. 

On Friday May 16, there is a barbeque where the vintners bring special wines from their cellars. It’s a show-off opportunity and everyone brings their best. Plus, the food is fantastic.

Then on Saturday, May 17, the Grand Tasting is at Scharfenberger Cellars. It’s one of the few wine festivals that takes place right in the vineyard. In the morning, VIPs spend a few hours “in the bubble lounge” with oysters, caviar etc. In the afternoon, 45 different wineries and great food. On Sunday, the local wineries open up for visits.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

To get there you drive north on highway 128 for about an hour, from Santa Rosa. It’s springtime and everything is in bloom. There will be easily 60 different wines. Dan Berger says the sub-region of Comptche (pronounced “com-CHEE”) is producing very good wine. Three years ago there was nothing coming from there. Today, they are world class. It’s remarkable that they are still unknown even in a town as large and as close as Santa Rosa.

Dan, Janae and Cathy.

Janae Franicevic, co-owner of Sunce Winery is our guest today on Caliornia Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Janae Franicevic describes Sunce Winery as a “brick and mortar” winery. Sunce means “sun” in Croatian. This year she will work her thirty-fourth consecutive harvest.

Sunce Winery has 46 different varietals and average about thirty per year. She calls it a livelihood winery, because the family makes a living from it. Since 1991 they have been in the heart of the Russian River Valley. Most of their production is small lots, 8, 10 or 12 barrels each.

Steve is tasting their French-style Chardonnay. “It will take you back to the old days of Chardonnay.” It’s partial ML, about 25% new oak, mostly French and neutral.

Her husband came to New Orleans from Croatia and worked as a fisherman. He started school after a fishing accident, and earned all the way up to a PhD in Psychology. He was making some wine in the basement while he was working on his dissertation. He served some of that wine to patrons in restaurants where he worked as a wine steward. Fast forward to today and they have won over 100 Gold Medals, in the three biggest wine competitions. Her husband is the winemaker and she sells it. Janae declares that her husband is a genius.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Janae has brought some Cabernet Franc. They made only two barrels of it. She makes a Dornfelder, which is a rare red wine grape that grows in cooler climates. Blaufrankisch is another cold climate red grape. Dornfelder was developed to address the color issue with wine that wouldn’t ripen in the cold weather. Here it is used to add color to varietals. They make a 100% as a fun wine, but not very serious.

Barbara Barrielle

Barbara Barrielle calls in to talk about the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival which is coming up May 16-18. Put in the promo code MENDOCINO for 30% off the two events.

Janae also mentions that tickets are on sale for Wine Road’s Spring Wine Trail on May 10. Visit Wine Road dot com for more information.

Joy Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Joy has been on California Wine Country before, on this episode of Sept. 27, 2017. Clark Wolf is sticking around from the previous segment to talk about the Northern California Public Media Awards that are coming back on May 10. This year’s honorees are Joy Sterling and her whole family, who are getting the recognition they deserve for all the delicious wines they make and also for all of their other work outside of winemaking.

Joy describes Iron Horse as a magical place, with stunning views across rolling hills of vines, with Mt. St. Helena in the distance. “The grapes know they are growing in a gorgeous place.” Dan Berger says its magic is a result of its location. The old road has not changed in 100 years. As you cross the bridge, it feels like you are 100 miles from anywhere. While a lot of wineries try to “turn it up so much” as Clark says, Iron Horse is natural. There is wildness thriving around them, including deer, who ate Joy’s roses. The turkey vultures that live all around northern California are thriving. Green Valley Creek bisects the property. The Coho Salmon use the river for spawning. Their farming is so careful that the water is clean.

Iron Horse has been legendary for making some of the finest Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wines in the world, not just in Sonoma County. These wines are “really pristine” such as the 2023 Audrey Chardonnay, named after Joy’s mom. Ever since the beginning, they keep the malolactic fermentation to a minimum and they use steam-bent barrels, so there is no smoke on the wood and therefore none in the wine either. Joy describes this wine as gracious and elegant, just like her mom. Dan Berger describes it as having perfect acidity and all the components are subtle, not ostentatious. The aren’t “blow your socks off” wines, more like “glide your socks off,” says Joy.

“Who doesn’t like a big pop? It just says “party,” says Joy. This is their 2021 Spring Rosé. It has a beautiful petal pink color and it really tastes like spring.” Dan Berger, who has an extensive personal cellar, says that these wines will improve with age in the bottle. They already have three years on the yeast. It is a limited production wine, only available at their tasting room.

The second wine they pour is the one they are best known for, Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée. Joy explains that their sparkling wines have become drier and drier, due to two factors, the increased quality of their craftsmanship and their vineyard practices. Dan Berger also gives credit to Iron Horse’s customers, who demand their quality. “We have the best customers!” says Joy. Iron Horse wines have been served at the White House for the last six consecutive administrations, as well as State Department events and to foreign dignitaries and royalty including the Queen of England.

Joy’s mother is a San Franciscan and her father was from Los Angeles and they lived in LA when Joy was a child. Then the family moved to France in 1967 and that is where they encountered wine. They would go on trips together to discover wine and their parents felt right at home. When they missed on a vineyard acquisition there, it may have been a blessing because by the mid-1970s they found a property in California. They have 3 generations living on the property in an 1876 house. Next year they will celebrate several big anniversaries. The USA turns 250, Iron Horse turns 50, winemaker David Munksgard celebrates 30 years making wine there.

They had a second label for a while called Tin Pony which they don’t make anymore. It was for wine made from grapes that did not make it into the Iron Horse blend. Joy said they preferred to focus on their top quality product. Dan thinks that with the market the way it is, Tin Pony could make a comeback, but Joy says she is busy enough.

Another cuvée they make is called Ocean Reserve. It is dedicated to ocean conservation. The proximity to the ocean is what gives their vineyard its character. They are 13 miles from the ocean and it is “the engine of our microclimate.”

Nolan Jones, winemaker at Lava Cap Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Lava Cap Winery is located in the Sierra Foothills, in Placerville. It is two hours due east of Napa and Sonoma. Dan Berger says that Sierra Foothills makes great wines but there are differences between the different regions. The Sierra Nevada Foothills is one of the biggest AVAs in the state. Their vineyards are at some of the highest elevations in California, at roughly 3000 feet. That is close to the snow line. They get snow and frost in the Spring.

Nolan grew up in Placerville. His grandfather started the winery and brought his father into it. Now a retired as a Geology professor at Berkeley, he looked for a place where the climate and soil were what he wanted. They bought the property in 1979, planted in 1980 and their first vintage was the next year.

They begin by tasting a Vermentino which Dan Berger says is excellent. Vermentino mostly grows in Liguria and Tuscany, in north-western Italy. It is popular there and it is just starting to get recognition in California where more and more producers are making it. This Vermentino has a faint tropical note with a hint of pineapple. This is their second Vermentino vintage. It has fun, bright summer characteristics. It has been very popular since they started making it. Nolan thinks the intensity of being at high elevation produces the acidity and other flavors they want. It was fermented in stainless steel, aged on light lees for three months and then bottled.

Dan attributes this wine to the fact that we now have the technology to make wine this way. It uses cold fermentation and good quality filters. This used to be unavailable to most producers. Thanks to new reasonably priced equipment, notably from Italy, local producers can make these world class wines that require special treatment. Nolan says this highlights the California character, which is aromatic, bright and intense. Their freshness comes from the Alpine region, while most other California wines come from coastal regions.

To make a parallel, it’s like a Sauvignon Blanc but with none of the green grass flavors. Vermentino has its own spice profile that is different than Sauv Blanc. His grandfather, being a geologist, named the winery after the soil, which the old miners named Lava Cap.

Lava Cap dot com is their website, where you can buy their wines. They do 26 different SKUs, including Italian, Spanish and French grapes. El Dorado has not settled on a “signature grape” the way that other regions have. Their goal is to showcase their elevation and the volcanic soil. Dan explains that the higher you go in elevation, the cooler it gets, and that gives you the effect and benefits of cooler weather, at a time where other vineyards are experiencing warmer weather.

They go on to taste a Chardonnay which is unique due to all the unique growing and winemaking conditions at Lava Cap Winery.

Dan Barwick joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country this week to talk about his impending return to England. He has been on CWC several times in recent years, the last time was this episode last August. He is one of the founders and the winemaker for Trecini Winery. They made their first Sauvignon Blanc in 1999.

Dan has brought a New Zealand wine, a 2022 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It cost $4.99 at Bottle Barn. It’s not a great wine but for $4.99 it’s fine.

There’s no such thing as a terrible wine, as long as it’s reasonably priced enough. – Dan Berger.

Dan was born in Dover, England and worked at Harrod’s London in the food hall where he saw a lot of wine. He moved to Sonoma in 1991 and has been making wine for thirty years. But he is moving back to England.

They have a Chardonnay to taste, which is Russian River, 2022, barrel fermented in 500 liter neutral oak. It’s one of his favorite Chardonnays that he has ever made. Clean crisp and immensely complex. Dan Berger says it will still improve with age, or even time in decanter.

England is on the horizon, in particular the county of Kent where The Wine Garden of England is getting warmer and warmer. It is champagne country, says Dan Berger. The English have started making some great sparkling wines and they have one today. It is a non-vintage brut from Chapel Down.

Dan Barwick tells the story that the timing was right to move back to England, for a combination of reasons. Dan Berger says that it is an exciting moment for English wine and that it is a well-timed move. They are tasting the wine from Chapel Down. It is made to emulate the style of Champagne and is “gorgeous.”

In England, Dan Barwick will do some consulting and will be able to bring all of his experience from California. He has already begun networking. He found an old friend he hadn’t seen for forty years who says he has vineyards and asked if Dan could help him. Prospects are good.

You have to hear Dan Berger speak truth to the people about how the average American wine consumer has zero knowledge of wine and what goes with what. It starts with his deadpan hilarious observation of Chardonnay on every table in a famous Chinese restaurant, where he was having the Gewurtztraminer.

Dan Berger, Alan Baker.

Cartograph Wines co-founder Alan Baker is back with us on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on the show was this episode in April of 2024, almost one year ago.

Cartograph is a label known for small-lot elegant Pinot Noir, Rieslings and sparkling wines as well, from Russian River Valley and Mendocino Ridge. Dan Berger says that if you are a wine lover, you know that the best part of that is finding these small local producers that make excellent wine. These wines are under the radar, so Alan declares they need a better radar.

Alan and his wife moved up from San Francisco in 2009 to launch the brand. Cartograph Wines has just purchased a new property in Dry Creek Valley which will become their new home and tasting room. It should be ready in about one year. There is Syrah on the property and they plan to install some art there too. For now they are in Healdsburg.

Alan worked in radio in St. Paul, MN for sixteen years before he “caught the wine bug.” Before that he studied music and shifted into making recordings of music, which led him to NPR in the twin cities. When he tasted a certain bottle of wine, which was a 1998 Alscatian Riesling.

“That silly $13 bottle of wine changed my entire life.” – Alan Baker

Steve Jaxon has named Dan Berger “Mr. Riesling” and the nickname is well earned. Alan and Dan first interacted because they share a taste for dry Riesling. If you handle it right, it can be “bone dry” and still have a lot of fruit flavors. Cartograph has planted Riesling recently so next year they will have some to taste from their estate.

Alan did bring a Rosé, a 2024, 100% Pinot Noir, light salmon color and completely dry. 90% was pressed directly from the grapes, and they also collect the juice that comes from the sorting table. Dan believes that the screw cap is one of the secrets to California Rosé. The screw cap makes a prefect seal with no oxygen transfer at all. This way, the wine stays in perfect condition for a lot longer.

They are also tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir that Dan calls “dramatic.” There is a hint of pomegranate. The majority of the fruit in this bottle comes from their estate vineyard in Russian River Valley near Cotati. Dan says it is so close to Petaluma Gap that it could be considered a Petaluma Gap style wine. It has low alcohol, 13.7%.  There is some oak, Dan calls it a “grace note” of aromatics. Dan suggests decanting it for an hour or so between opening it and tasting it.

Dan Berger.

California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today includes Dan’s thoughts about tariffs and wine sales. This continues some of the subject matter he discussed on this episode of CWC three weeks ago.

Dan Berger begins by describing an online newsletter and Substack called Fermentations, written by Tom Wark. Dan says it has the most interesting perspective on the business. For the rest of today Dan and Steve will talk about some tastings and also about tariffs and the changing retail and wholesale wine market. Dan sees that the impositions of tariffs is going to be devastating throughout the wine industry. It will negatively impact foreign wine, but it will also adversely affect the entire market. 37% of retail sales are imported. If a bottle of champagne has gone from $50 to $125, buyers won’t buy. Wine prices are going to stay the same for California wine, and prices of European wine will go up.

The United States Wine Trade Alliance, representing 5,000 businesses, is attempting to lobby against the tariffs, but with dim prospects. Dan suggests looking for wines that are already here and buying what you want, now.

There have been layoffs in the wholesale wine business. In the last year, wineries have been going out of business. Vintage Wine Merchants has closed and Constellation has announced their intention to sell their wine properties. Mr. Foley has been buying wineries in these distressed conditions and now owns something like thirty brands. Dan says that if the tariffs stay in place for over a year, look out for big trouble. Also, Canada has stopped buying American wine and spirits too. Canada has been an important source of revenue for some California wineries.

2023 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay from New Zealand that comes from a winemaker named Michael Brackovich that Dan knows. The winery is not far from Auckland, on a lovely bay. The wine is delicious. No tariffs have been threatened on New Zealand and Australia, at least yet. It is a great example of southern hemisphere Chardonnay.

They also taste a Hendry 2023 Albariño, from the Napa Valley. It is a variety that grows in Portugal and Spain, and also some in California. Dan says it has the structure of Gewürztraminer but the aromatics of a Riesling only with additional orange peel flavors.

Dan has selected wines today from California, Australia and New Zealand whose prices will not change.

Finally they taste a Gamay, which is similar to Pinot Noir. This comes from a property called Mount Edward in New Zealand. It could have been made into a fruity Beaujolais style wine but this one has a little more substance. It has black pepper flavors that come from the colder climate. New Zealand makes a lot of Gamay, which usually becomes the young fruity Beaujolais style. This wine is made more like a Syrah, focussed on acidity, instead of that. Dan would pair it with a well-done hamburger with some char on it.

Dan Berger and Rick Davis.

Rick Davis, winemaker and owner Cal Star Cellars, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. This is Rick’s first time on CWC although we have taked about his wines before.

Dan Berger says that Rick is not personally well-known because he does not promote himself. He is too busy in the winery. Rick tells his story of starting in the industry on the east coast in 1988 before coming to California in 1992. He became cellarmaster and assistant winemaker at Flower, then in 1997 he worked three vintages on the central coast. He started his own brand in 2001 with 160 cases of Zinfandel.

Flowers began as a project under the auspices of Greg La Follette and it became one of the most important brands in Sonoma County history. Dan says that the Cal Star wines are some of the best wines that nobody has ever heard about.

Cal Star makes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, a red and a rosé from Pinot Meunier, six different Pinot Noirs (three vineyard designates and three and three AVA blends) and two Zinfandels. He only does 1200 cases per year total volume, and he works with 11 different SKUs. Dan says its virtue is that this is how to keep track of all the different vineyards.

The Sauvignon Blanc has a lot of varietal character, in Dan’s opinion. He also gets varietal character from his Lodi Zinfandels. Rick is not interested in what he calls “cocktail wine” or what Dan calls a “sipping wine.” Rick got interested in wine because he likes to cook and wanted to make wine that would match the food he cooks. That sounds like the way to end up making wines that Dan Berger will like.

Then they taste a 2023 Rosé of Pinot Meunier which Dan says is has strong cherry flavors. His account in Georgia called it a “porch pounder that will go with food.” This rosé is made direct to press, not by the bleeding-off process. Dan agrees that this method makes better Rosés.

The red Pinot Meunier is next. It is rarely made as a red wine because it is already light in color. It’s just darker than a Rosé, but it is a red. Rick describes it as Cru Beujolais without the funk factor.