Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

Could you sew only with second hand fabric? No more fabric shopping, only thrifting and receiving donations. Would that feel frustrating, or would it unlock some inner creativity and resourcefulness? Space scientist and passionate maker, Rachel Kirby, sews almost exclusively within this limitation, and spills the tea on how and why it works for her. 

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Rachel Kirby can be found on her website, @fibre.and.space on Instagram and @GeoPlaneteer on Twitter. 

Rachel’s self-designed Solar System jumper went viral!

Rachel was inspired by Samantha @pippy_eve on Instagram to try her hand at sewing her first garment by using the Justine skirt pattern by Ready to Sew and some cotton fabric she found at an op shop.

The only piece of from-the-bolt fabric Rachel has used for herself was to make some Arenite pants, pattern by Sew Liberated. 

Image source: Rachel Kirby

Listen to Episode 69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross.

Rachel’s TNT (‘tried and tested’, or ‘tried and true’) patterns:

Image source: Rachel Kirby

Will you be taking any trips this year? Are you a short, city-break kind of traveller, or do you have a more adventurous trip planned? There’s no denying that travel in any form has an environmental impact to some degree, but how can we travel more sustainably? And how can sewing help us to do that? CYT regular, Shams el-Din Rogers, and I discuss all this and more, and in the process offer up heaps of suggestions that you can apply to YOUR next trip!

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Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers.

Listen to her on previous episodes of CYT:

I have used the Raspberry Rucksack pattern by Sarah Kirsten.

Image source: Sarah Kirsten. 

Noodlehead is a great source of sewing patterns for all sorts of bags, pouches and wallets. 

Sham wrote an excellent post about making clothes bags for her husband from some polyester fabric, and why that’s a good use for this damaging fibre type. 

Polka Dot Chair have made a list of 40 free zip pouch sewing tutorials.

Previous conversations on Check Your Thread about the portability of hand stitching include:

Do you ever think about all the useful stuff that gets thrown away, every single day, and how to get it into the hands of people who need it? Return-guest Noah Hirsch tells us all about his dumpster diving and mutual aid activities which help feed and clothe members of his community. Plus, he shares some exciting plans…

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Find Noah Hirsch on Instagram @yung_curmudgeon

Listen to Noah’s first appearance on the podcast, Episode 45: The Art of Rescue with Noah Hirsch.

Noah posts monthly Dumpster Diving Reports (such as January’s), sharing the sheer quantity and range of items he is able to rescue and leave at the Sunnyland Free Pantry. 

This is the second episode with Seamwork owner, Sarai Mitnick. In this one Sarai shares the fascinating story of how Seamwork became B-corp certified, and her motivations for going through that challenging process. And Sarai offers up insights and ideas for making your sewing process more intentional that you can apply today.

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Sarai is the founder and owner of the Seamwork community and pattern company. 

You can download the Seamwork Wardrobe Planner for free. 

Learn more about the B-corp certification process for businesses. 

Sarai was inspired, in different ways, by the following books:

The Seamwork team is making a quilt from scraps for Project Linus. 

Sarai uses Milanote to create digital vision boards. 

Did you know that Seamwork has a YouTube channel? 

This is the first of two episodes with Sarai Mitnick, a major influence in the sewing scene for over 15 years. Sarai chats with me about the birth and evolution of the online sewing community, and the role that her businesses, Colette Patterns and Seamwork, have played. Plus Sarai talks about how her own podcast, Seamwork Radio, has changed, from being a storytelling platform to a medium to spread a slow-sewing philosophy.  

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Come along to the Sew Sustainable Fair in London on 22/4/23

Threads article about creating an elastic insert at the side seams of tailored trousers. 

Sarai is the founder and owner of the Seamwork community and pattern company. 

The Colette Patterns Beignet skirt pattern is now available via Seamwork. 

I made my own version in red twill back in 2009! 

Sarai was inspired by Knitty Magazine. 

Seamwork Radio is a podcast hosted by Sarai and Hayley. 

Episode 1: A Radical Change in Confidence with Jenny Rushmore from Cashmerette is one of Sarai’s very favourites that they’ve made.

Sustainability-related episodes of Seamwork Radio include:

One of my very favourite podcast guests is back! Textile activist Shams el-Din Rogers and I have a fun and thought-provoking conversation about fabric stashes, storage and space. As always, Shams brings her insight and wisdom as we explore many of the implications of these topics as they relate to sustainability, and we compare notes as an American and a European. Plus! Shams sets herself a goal...

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Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers.

Listen to her on previous episodes of CYT. Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el–Din Rogers and Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el–Din Rogers.

I also highly recommend checking out Shams’ episode on Stitch Please: the Black Women Stitch podcast, Ep.#123: Don’t Trash it! Sew it!: Sustainable Creativity with Shams el-Din Rogers. 

Explore ‘Works in Progress Toronto’ via their website and on Instagram @works.in.progress.to.

Instagram based contests that Shams is participating in:

#lastsewiststanding created by @miss.taeschli.

#whole30fabricchallenge created by @pinkmimosabyjacinta.

Textile Museum of Canada is in Toronto and has a truly epic-looking shop!

Shams recently bought some issues of Tauko magazine.

Image source: Tauko Magazine

Check out two blog posts I made including round-ups of free kid’s patterns. There’s My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns and Fab Free Kids’ Patterns for 6 and Up.

Listen to Ep.#11: Kids Vs. Sewing and Ep.#33: Encouraging Kids to Sew and

I use the the basic version of the Trello app to catalogue and manage my fabric stash and project ideas. 

Shams’ goal is based on the 2-door Pax wardrobes made by Ikea.

The Sewing for Body Changes episode (#72) received more comments and feedback than almost any other episode to date. Lots of listeners generously shared their own tactics for making clothes for their fluctuating bodies. It was clear that there’s more to be said on this underserved topic, so I felt an update episode was in order… 

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Find Jen Gale of Sustainable(ish) podcast’s free downloadable 23-in-23 guide.

Patterns and companies mentioned in this episode:

Lander Pants & Shorts by True Bias (up to hip 46.5”)

Listener Sarennya shared this image of a garment with a wide seam allowance and multiple rows of stitching:

Image source: Sarennya Pathmanandavel 

Folkwear Patterns have an amazing range of traditional and historical styles. 

My favourite is the Old Mexico Dress pattern (up to 54” bust)

Learn more about Japanese patterns and pattern books at Japanese Sewing Patterns by Sew in Love. 

Tea House Dress & Top pattern by Sew House Seven (up to 47” bust)

Fringe Dress & Blouse by Chalk & Notch Patterns (up to 58” bust)

Laura Skirt by Seamwork (up to 57” hip)

Image source: Seamwork

Wrap Skirt by In The Folds via Peppermint Magazine (up to 56.5” hip)

Meriam Trousers by Cashmerette (up to 62” hip)

Image source: Cashmerette

Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven (up to 50”)

Burnside Bibs Curvy Fit by Sew House Seven (up to 65” hip)

Otis Overalls by Sew Liberated (up to 61” hip)

Penny Pinafore by Sew Liberated (up to 61” hip)

Image source: Sew Liberated

Wide-Leg Jumpsuit by The Assembly Line (up to 54” bust / 55” hip)

Intrepid Boiler Suit by Alice & Co. (up to 49” bust / 53” hip)

Linnea Larsson is a multidisciplinary creative from Sweden with a passion for reusing existing materials. An architect by day, Linnea spent the nap times during her maternity leave sewing her own unwanted garments into baby clothes. She also decided to make a book to encourage and guide others to do the same! ‘Restyle & Restitch for little ones’ comes out in English this week, and I got to talk to Linnea all about the process and motivation for writing it. 

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Find Linnea Larsson and her inspiring upcycled creations on Instagram @go_recreate.

Originally titled ‘Go Recreate’, the English translation of her book is ‘Restyle & Restitch for little ones, 30 simple projects from preloved clothes’ is published by Search Press and out now.

The shirt and romper image below is a great example of Linnea's visual style.

The Thelma Boilersuit pattern by Merchant & Mills is currently on Linnea’s sewing table. 

You can check out my version of The Thelma on my blog. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Alexis Bailey’s slow sewing space is Fibr & Cloth Studio. F&C can also be found on Instagram @fibrandclothstudio and her personal Instagram account is @helloalexisbailey. 

Explore the hashtag #bhmpatterndesigners to discover Black pattern designers and sewing business owners. 

The hashtag, list and challenge are created and updated by Nateida from Sew Natural Dane and @sewnaturaldane.

Previous-podcast guest Birgitta Helmersson was an early inspiration to Alexis as she set out on her own ZW pattern journey. 

Alexis’ first zero/minimal waste pattern is the Iris blouse and dress pattern:

ZW designer Liz Haywood’s version of the Iris blouse.

Goldfinch Textile Studio produced the zero/minimal waste Jones Trousers pattern. 

Justice of Thread and Sprout is a fibre artist who makes incredible garments and other items by combining fabric. 

Fibr & Cloth Studio has a Youtube channel!

Louisa Owen Sonstroem is a hand stitching expert. Listen to my conversation with Louisa: Ep.15: Hand Stitching Clothes with Louisa Owen Sonstroem. 

Sarah Woodyard of Sewn Company offers classes and workshops on hand sewing. 

This episode is the first of two featuring hand-sewing expert and pattern designer Alexis Bailey. We hear how her multifaceted slow-sewing business, Fibr & Cloth Studio, grew from a frustration she felt whilst travelling, and how the pandemic presented her with the perfect conditions to launch. Alexis also shares how becoming a pattern designer was foisted upon her! 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Check out Ep. 52 of A Smaller Life podcast where previous-guest-of-CYT Saskia de Feijter has a wonderful conversation with more-recent-previous-CYT-guest Kim Witten!

Alexis Bailey’s slow sewing space is Fibr & Cloth Studio. F&C can also be found on Instagram @fibrandclothstudio and her personal Instagram account is @helloalexisbailey. 

Bernadette Banner explores hand sewing and historical garments on their Youtube channel.

Alexis’ first foray into hand sewing garments used the Strata top pattern by Sew Liberated:

Image source: Sew Liberated

The Freerange Slacks pattern by Sew house Seven was another that Alexis made hand-sewing kits for when she started out. 

Alexis then moved on to using the simpler Pants No.1 pattern by Sonya Phillips.

Making Magazine gave Alexis the push to start drafting sewing patterns. 

Her first step was to complete the Pattern Making Workshop by Lauren Dahl.

The Umbra Lounge Set pattern was her first resultant pattern.

The Mahogany Turban pattern is a great scrap buster:

Image source: Fibr & Cloth Studio