Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

By Zoe EdwardsLeisure Hobbies Crafts

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Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably episodes

January 09, 2023#72: Sewing for Body Changes
As sustainably-minded garment makers, our goal is to make items that will have a long life and see lots of use. But what about when our bodies change? Everyone experiences fluctuations in shape and size, so in this solo episode I explore how we can future proof our garment projects to accommodate that fact.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Outerwear patterns
Coats and jackets:
The Richmond Coat by Tessuti (up to 48” bust)
Flow Jacket and Coat by Atelier Scammit (up to 56” bust)
Traveller Coat by Bella Loves Patterns (up to 44” bust, available in 2 heights)
Nova Coat and Jacket by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)
Nova Curve Coat and Jacket by Papercut Patterns (up to 60.6” bust)
Cardigan patterns:
My current favourite:
Jamie Cardigan by Ready to Sew (up to 42” bust)
Patterns for cardigans worn open:
Blackwood Cardigan by Helen’s Closet (up to 62” bust)
Kinder Cardigan by MIY Workshop/Wendy Ward (up to 48” bust)
Fjord Cardi by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)
Image source: Papercut Patterns
Shawl pins and closures:
Metal shawl pins and closures from Textile Garden
Other shawl pins from Textile Garden
Image source: Textile Garden
Wrap style cardigan patterns:
Coppelia Cardi by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)
Pearl Cardigan by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 60” bust)
Top, dress and jumpsuit patterns
Boxy Woven tops/dresses:
Block Tee by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
Georgia Tee and Dress by Elizabeth Suzann Studio (up to 58” bust)
Image source: Elizabeth Suzann Studio
Oversized style patterns:
Olya Shirt and Dress by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
Ellsworth Shirt by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
Mara Oversized Sweater by kdornbier designs (up to 46” bust)
Trapeze shaped patterns:
The Trapeze Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 42” bust)
Minttu Swing Top by Named Clothing (up to 46” bust)
Rumi Tank by Christine Haynes (up to 56” bust)
Top and dress patterns with gathering or pleating at the neckline or into a yoke or panel:
Roscoe Blouse and Dress by True Bias (up to 44.5” bust)
Roscoe Blouse and Dress by True Bias (up to 57.5” bust)
Petite Choses Blouse and Dress by Atelier Scammit (up to 45” bust)
Vali Dress and Top by Pattern Fantastique (up to 51.5” bust)
The Florence Top and Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
Lisa Dress by Tessuti (up to 42” bust)
Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated (up to 58.5” bust)
Image source: Sew Liberated
Wrap dress and jumpsuit patterns:
The Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
Hali Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit by Named Clothing (up to 53” bust)
Kielo Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit by Named Clothing (up to 53” bust)
The Etta Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
Wildwood Wrap Dress by Sew House Seven (up to 49” bust)
Wildwood Wrap Dress Curvy by Sew House Seven (up to 58” bust)
St Germain Wrap Dress by Liesl + Co. (up to 46” bust)
‘Faux-fit and flare' dress patterns:
ZW Gather Dress by Birgitta Helmersson (up to 61” bust)
Lyra Dress by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 61” bust)
Elasticated waist dress and jumpsuit patterns:
Lotta Dress by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 51” bust)
Asha Dress by Style Arc (up to 68” bust)
Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias (up to 44.5” bust)
Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias (up to 57.5” bust)
Trillium Dress and Tunic by Made by Rae (up to 59” bust)
Lennox Boilersuit by Homer + Howells (up to 49” bust)
Sofia Dress and Top by Victory Patterns (up to 44” bust)
Sofia Dress and Top by Victory Patterns (up to 58” bust)
Image source: True Bias
Skirt, trouser, pinafore and dungarees patterns
Elasticated waist skirt patterns:
Mave Skirt by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
Mave Skirt by True Bias (up to 59.5” hip)
Sofia Pencil Skirt by Threads by Caroline (up to 50” hip)
Image source: Threads by Caroline
My favourite elastic waist trouser patterns:
Luna Pants by Made By Rae (up to 59” hip)
Arden Pants by Helen’s Closet (up to 58” hip)
Partly-elasticated trousers and shorts patterns:
Emerson Pants and Shorts by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
Emerson Pants and Shorts by True Bias (up to 61.5” hip)
Dani Shorts and Pants by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
Dani Shorts and Pants by True Bias (up to 61.5” hip)
Rose Pants by Made by Rae (up to 62” hip)
Aina Trousers and Culottes by Named Clothing (up to 56” hip)
Image source: Named Clothing
Buttonhole elastic:
Image source: William Gee
Amazing Check Your Thread listener Hinerangi @duckgoesoink experimented with hacking the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern to include buttonhole elastic in the back of the waistband (shared through Stories).
Trouser patterns with adjustable straps:
Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core Patterns (up to 61” hip)
Square Pants by Stoxx Patterns (up to 63” hip)
Pinafore and dungarees patterns:
Greta Dungarees by Made My Wardrobe (up to 53” hip)
Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet (up to 58” hip)
Heyday Dungarees by Waves and Wild (up to 63” hip)
Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade (up to 63” hip)
Image source: Jennifer Lauren Handmade
Bias cut patterns:
Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti (up to bust 42”)
Evie Bias Skirt by Tessuti (up to 48” hip)
29 min
January 02, 2023#71: Making Personal Manifestos with Kim Witten
Happy New Year! I propose we kick things off by creating personal manifestos that will see us through 2023 and beyond! By defining our own personal vision, mission, strategy and tactics, never again will we need to ask ourselves, ‘What should I be doing right now?’ or ‘Is this course of action right for me?’.
I’ve invited my friend and former coach, Kim Witten, whose work focuses on strategic expert thinking, to guide us through this incredibly beneficial process. Kim is also an experienced crafter and we discuss different mental approaches to picking up new skills, and how she applies self coaching through her journey as a beginner sewer.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find more about Kim Witten and her coaching on her website.
Sign up to her weekly ‘Hold That Thought’ newsletter to help you turn your overthinking into expert thinking.
Start developing your vision with Kim’s free Vision Statement Worksheet.
And here’s more from Kim on the differences between vision, mission, strategy and roadmap.
Outline of a manifesto (AKA plan or anything else you wish to call it!):
Vision - what is the world you wish to live in?
Mission - what it takes to create your vision, the ‘work’ to be done.
Strategy - the best approach toward making good progress, how you’ll go about it.
Tactics/tasks/roadmap - laying out the specific tasks and activities you need to do. All of your tactics, when prioritised and placed on a timeline, will create a roadmap.
Check Your Thread / My Manifesto:
Vision:
A world where the impact on the environment is factored into every decision.
Mission:
Help people make more sustainable choices by giving them information, ideas, inspiration and agency.
By starting to sew more sustainably, it’s then possible to do lots of other things more sustainably. That these ideas and approaches can spread out into many areas of life.
Spread the idea that living more sustainably can be fun and fulfilling, not about hand-wringing, eco-snobbery or depriving yourself.
Check Your Thread reflects the values of a wider community of people having ideas and interesting conversations, and making things happen. Our Check Your Thread sub-community feels positive, supportive and fun.
Strategy:
Balance between seriousness and joy, inspiration and fun
Specific ideas and concepts are applicable to broader ways of being
Continually making more resources that allow people to engage with ideas with content in new ways, levels
Organic growth through genuine interactions, explorations of common goals
Tactics:
Check Your Thread Podcast
Instagram / Social Media
Me Made May
Speaking opportunities / teaching / going on other podcasts
Making resources
In addition to my manifesto, I outlined my values and principles:
Limiting my contribution to climate change where possible
The Personal is Political
Helping to redress income inequality
Helping to redress racial inequality
Helping to redress homophobia
Promoting feminist thinking
Creating joy
Finding a balance between living as sustainably as possible, and having a happy, fulfilling life.
Kim’s best investment in 2022 was signing up for sewing classes at Ministry of Craft in Manchester, UK. There she learned to make this wiggle dress (image by Alison Leese at Ministry of Craft):
Next up on Kim’s sewing table is a project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual book:
The Pietra Pants pattern by Closet Core Patterns was a game-changer for Kim, allowing her for the first time to make custom-fitting trousers that suit her stature. Her first version, made at Ministry of Craft:
For more information about Me-Made-May and how you can take part in 2023, check out this page.
1 hr 20 min
December 12, 2022 #70: The Fold Line with Kate Underdown
If there is anyone related to the sewing community who has a strong handle on sewing trends, in all senses, it’s Kate Underdown. As co-founder of The Fold Line, Kate created a business that has pivoted a number of times, but has always been a hub for learning about new pattern releases and a digest for the best and most exciting sewing-related content. In this conversation we hear about the journey The Fold Line has been on, the organisation that goes into their annual Sewing Weekender event, and how much sewing Kate is actually doing these days! Plus, Kate offers her insight on the changing role that sustainability is playing within our community.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Kate founded The Fold Line with her business partner Rachel in 2015.
Kate creates heaps of wonderful videos for The Fold Line Youtube channel, including the ‘Sew The Trends’ series.
Learn more about The Sewing Weekender , an annual event that The Fold Line organises with Charlotte from Charlotte Emma Patterns.
39 min
December 05, 2022 #69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross
Judy Williment-Ross is a New Zealand-based maker who broke the internet when her lockdown project, the Epic Dress, was featured on the SewOver50 Instagram account. Clearly not afraid of getting in deep, Judy explains to me how she chooses which projects are worth investing her time in, and lays out her personal rules, ethics and criteria for selecting and using second hand materials. She also gives us tips on raising kids who embrace second hand and handmade, and expands on the satisfaction she finds in garment alterations.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Follow Judy Williment-Ross and her creative journey on Instagram @judywillimentross.
I first discovered Judy’s work via the @sewover50 Instagram account.
Be inspired by the wonderful #sew50sustainablesewing hashtag.
Exploring her love of men’s cotton shirts, Judy created this beautiful wrap front dress.
The Epic Dress in all its glory:
The Hexi Coat, AKA The Behemoth:
Dunedin’s Stitch Kitchen is host to the Maker’s Pantry, selling second hand fabric, patterns and notions.
Listen to Episode #21: The Joy of Reclaimed Fabric with Sarah AKA Sew Love NZ.
Some of Judy’s tiniest scraps became this awesome project bag:
59 min
November 28, 2022#68: Visible Vs Invisible Mending
This episode is a fun exploration into the qualities of, and differences between, visible and invisible mending. What are their strengths and when are they likely to be victorious?
Taking a deeper look into these approaches to mending can give us a clearer idea of how we want to tackle each repair job we are presented with. Which one will you deploy for your next mending project?
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Basic materials mending:
Strong thread suitable for hand sewing to stitch up holes, rips and tears, and for stitching on patches.
If you’re likely to try darning, some darning yarn, or possibly leftover knitting yarn should also be in your mending materials stash.
Fabric scraps for making patches. These can be harvested from old garments that have gone beyond wearability, and leftovers from previous sewing projects. It’s useful to have a mix of woven and knit fabrics and different thicknesses so you can create patches for different types of garments.
A selection of buttons in a range of sizes. Although pretty much anything goes in terms of holes or shanks, colour, shape or texture, a replacement button will have to be the same size or a little smaller than the missing one. You can always close up a button hole a bit if the new button is a bit smaller, but you’re inviting a bit of a headache if you try to make the buttonhole bigger to accommodate a larger replacement button.
Scraps of fusible interfacing. These are useful to strengthen a weakened area, particularly because it’ll give you more grace with your choice of fabric for patching, or your choice of reinforcing stitch.
Eventually you may find it useful to also have a collection of Iron on patches, lengths of bias binding, and pieces of elastic in different widths, but you can gather those as the need arises.
Basic equipment for mending:
Hand sewing needles are a must. A little pack of different sizes to match with different thickness of fabric will make your life easier.
Scissors that cut fabric and snips to cut thread.
A tape measure or other measuring tool. These can help you figure out how big to cut a patch or what length and width bias binding you might need.
Some kind of fabric marking tool such as a water or heat erasable pen or a chalk pencil.
A seam ripper AKA stitch ripper or quick unpick.
Pins and safety pins to keep what you’re working on in place.
An iron will also be handy to apply the fusible interfacing and prepare neat looking patches.
Certain visible mends might be quicker or longer lasting if a sewing machine is used.
Mending inspiration and knowledge:
Books:
Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh which is all about subtle, visible patching and decorative Sashiko stitching.
Modern Mending by previous-guest Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald is a wonderful primer on all sorts of mending techniques and encourages creativity at every step.
Instagram accounts:
@mendingmayhem, a community that celebrates mends in the wild
@roberta.cummings a creative maker and mender whose work often focuses on colourful, visible darning
@akemi__harada is an artist and maker incorporating boro
@blue_movement2017 creates stunning garments using traditional Japanese techniques including indigo dyeing and boro
@yung_curmudgeon (AKA Noah Hirsch) is a talented and bold repairer of everything, as well as a previous guest on this podcast.
@tomofholland is one of the first champions of visible mending that I became aware of
21 min
November 23, 2022 #67: Zoe and Julia Sew with Reclaimed Denim
Back in August, myself and friend-of-the-podcast Julia Hincks attended a class where we explored the possibilities of denim reclaimed from unwanted jeans. As predominantly garment sewers, Julia and I were encouraged out of our comfort zone at craft studio Made & Making, and nudged into the realms of homeware and accessories. In this little episode, we share what new skills we learned, and what we came home with…
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Sew a pan stew or hay madam! This other post (in Dutch) gives more information.
This episode features Julia Hincks. Her website is House of Miss Sew and you can find her at @juliahincks on Instagram.
She previously featured on
Ep. #10: Overlockers & Coverstich Machines with Julia Hincks
Ep. #27: Zoe & Julia go Rag Rugging
Ep. #53: First Birthday / Ask Me Anything with Zoe, Julia & Naomi
If you haven’t already, make sure you listen to Ep. #26: Harvesting Materials with Eliu Hernandez. Eliu specialises in repurposing as materials from unwanted jeans for his epic quilts and other projects.
Made & Making is a craft and making studio based in Hassocks, Sussex. They are also on Instagram @madeandmaking.
The next Denim Day workshop is taking place on 20th March 2023. Visit their website for more details and to book a place.
Read about my patchwork denim dungarees, which have been mentioned numerous times before on this podcast!
25 min
November 14, 2022 #66: Conscious Yarn Choices with Saskia de Feijter
With the goal of fleshing out my me-made wardrobe with cosy garments, I’ve taken up knitting. However, even at this beginner stage, I really want to make more sustainable and ethical choices. In this episode, knitting expert and previous-guest Saskia de Feijter metaphorically holds my hand and talks me through what to look for when selecting yarn for my next project. Saskia tells me about how fibre type and location can be an indicator of animal welfare, how the weight and yarn structure affect the suitability for a particular pattern, and how ply affects longevity of a knitted garment. She was also kind enough to answer questions posed by my colleague Phoebe about deadstock yarn, best practices for caring for your handknits, reusable products you can knit for the home and yarn scrap busting ideas in a segment we’re calling ‘Phoebe Asks’!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find out more about Saskia, her business ‘Ja, Wol’, her knitting community, business mentoring AND podcast!
Listen to my first conversation with Saskia for the podcast in Episode 48: How to Knit More Sustainably with Saskia de Feijter.
The knitting community database where I hunted for patterns is Ravelry.
‘Let’s Boogie’ Cardigan by A Honey Knits is the pattern I’ve chosen to make next.
image source: A Honey Knits
Saskia recommends the Craft Council Standard Yarn Weight System for guidance.
Check out Bart & Francis for deadstock yarns.
32 min
November 07, 2022 #65: Sewing Sunflowers with Jess Redgrave
Former fashion designer Jess Redgrave began to feel a growing disillusionment with the clothing industry due to the damaging practices she witnessed. This led her to quit and sign up to study alternatives to the unsustainable realities of modern clothing production. Having found several exciting avenues into the potential of sunflowers, Jess is working on ideas that could shape the future of what we wear and what we sew with. In this conversation, she lays it all out for us, including answering a question you never knew to ask: how do you get your hands on enzymes?!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find out about Jess Redgrave and her Climafibre work on her website.
I first found out about Jess and her explorations at this year’s Future Fabrics Expo in London.
Listen to my experience of the expo in Episode #50: The Future of Fabrics.
Jess’s investigations into sunflowers formed part of her work for her MA in Material Futures at Central Saint Martins, where you can also find more information on the investigations undertaken by her classmates.
To test the product she’d been working on, Jess made a summer rain mac from fabric coated in a sunflower oil by-product. See image below:
30 min
October 31, 2022#64: Sewing Trends More Sustainably
Clothing trends are collective reactions to, or interpretations of, what’s going on in the world. But are they the antithesis of dressing and sewing more sustainably? In this solo episode, I discuss how, even if you don’t read Vogue or keep up with popular culture, trends can manifest in our sewing projects and wardrobes, and how they play an important part in social discourse. I then set out some guidelines for engaging with trends more sustainably to help you decide which trends are worth exploring. I also offer ideas on how you can sew the trends whilst still creating successful, meaningful garments with longevity.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Naomi Bancroft is @whatnaomimade on Instagram made a gorgeous blouse using the Anthea Blouse pattern by Anna Allen, and has worn it tons:
image source: Naomi Bancroft
Many thanks to Hannah @claytheredelilah for the original questions and continued conversations on this topic that inspired this episode.
Listen to our original discussion on trends in Episode #53: 1st Birthday / Ask Me Anything with Zoe, Julia and Naomi.
A guide to engaging with trends more sustainably:
Do a gut-check, how do you feel straight away?
Would you have been into it three years ago?
Wait for a while so you get to see more versions and interpretations of it pop up, but be aware of the effects of increased exposure.
Ask yourself if it would work for the climate you live in. Would it work for your lifestyle, if it’s suitable for neither your occupation nor how you tend to spend your leisure time, then it doesn’t make any sense.
Try on some examples in a shop to get an instant idea if it’ll work for you.
Think about how you can blend the new element with others that feel comfortably within your existing style wheelhouse.
And remember, if you go for it but it doesn't work out for you in the short term or over time, there’s most likely something you can do to rework it and make it exciting again.
19 min
October 24, 2022 #63: Sewing and Personal Power with Brandon Hayden
My guest for Ep.#63, Brandon Hayden, shares both his amazing creations and positive personal philosophy under the Instagram handle @happilydressed. Since high school, thrifting has always been Brandon’s method for carving out a unique visual identity. Initially, he got a sewing machine to complement his thrifting, which gave him the ability to alter items he found. But soon after, this Atlanta-based creative then found an even greater source of power, pride and self discovery through sewing his own clothes from scratch. In this conversation, he explains his ‘fabric first’ approach to garment creation, how he fell into teaching, and his bright and bold plans for the future.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Follow Brandon Hayden via Instagram @happilydressed. Also check out the Happily Dressed website.
Lace curtain to epic shirt, Brandon was wearing this garment when we spoke.
@grandmother.marys.vintage is Brandon’s friend and inspiration.
Brandon is currently making the Mitchell Trousers pattern by Closet Core Patterns.
image source: Closet Core Patterns
Nisan from @the.social.fabric made a stunning pair of Mitchell Trousers.
The Heyday Dungarees pattern by Waves and Wild is one of my favourites.
The Worker Trousers pattern by Modern Sewing Co is also on Brandon’s ‘to make’ list.
Brandon’s set of trousers, jacket and bucket hat from a single length of printed fabric is a vision! See below:
Brandon's hoodie made from car blanket was made in celebration of being in a great place in his life.
52 min