Jian DeLeon is joined by Matt Bean, Editor-in-Chief of Men's Health, to talk how masculinity is being redefined today, male body image, and a holistic shift in men's lifestyle media.

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Jian DeLeon is joined by Himanshu "Heems" Suri to discuss his rap group the Swetshop Boyz, Asian-American identity politics, modern activism, Indian food, and how it all ties together..

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Jian Deleon is joined by Gary Warnett to discuss 30 Years of Nike Air Max and more on Highsnobiety Conversations. Music: "Lovely" by Kiefer Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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The cultural impact of the ‘90s on today’s culture is clear. From runways to magazine editorials, the period’s visual language is an endless source of borrowed nostalgia for modern creatives. For those, like me, who grew up in the ‘90s, pop culture peaked. Musically, heavy metal was out and grunge came in, while hip-hop began to reinterpret its own roots in sound to a new consumer looking for new. BMX and skateboarding, two very street-level sports, were picking up large market sponsors wanting to capture—and cash in on—burgeoning subcultures. Personal computers were in in their infancy. Macintosh computers and PCs featured primitive image and illustration programs that opened a new channel for creative development and expression. Online services like Prodigy and the ability to email individuals pushed the digital age even further. The gains made musically and creatively back then not only continue to shape today’s culture, but perhaps the next ten years. On this episode of conversations, we explore the idea of collective memory with two creators that were heavily impacted by their interests in the ‘90s. We caught up with adidas Originals VP of Global Design, Nic Galway, and artist/director Ben Jones at the M Building during Art Basel Miami, where adidas revealed their EQT sneaker initiative that quote, “continues to create the future by reinventing the past” by being “informed by collective memory to create meaning for a new generation.” The launch, scheduled for 2017, is a rebirth for EQT that forwards the silhouette for modern consumers. Links in this show: www.adidas.com/us/eqt Music "knxlimit85" by Knxwledge Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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In the fashion world, independent boutiques have a distinct advantage over departments stores and big retailers: They’re small enough to be flexible. Smaller stores like Machus in Portland, Oregon, Need Supply Co. in Richmond, Virginia, and Tres Bien in Malmo, Sweden have developed a loyal customer base that grew enormously once they established their e-commerce sites. A small physical space and need to stand apart from readily available options has seen the little guys adopt young brands with potential early on, helping push them to the forefront of consumers’ minds. It’s also inspired them to build strong visual identities on e-commerce platforms and social media that align with the kinds of labels they carry. More recently, these successful shops have become brands themselves. Machus’ in-house line of products spans from basic tees and knitwear to denim, leather jackets, and home goods like candles. The independent shop just celebrated its five-year anniversary, a pretty big milestone for any small business. On today’s show, we speak with Machus founder Justin Machus via Skype to talk about the highs and lows of being an independent retailer, the risks of adopting young labels early on, and the lessons he’s learned in the past five years of business. Links in this story: Machus https://www.machusonline.com Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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If you create a work of art and don’t post about it on Instagram, is it still valid? Is there a direct correlation between the number of followers a creative has on a social platform and the talent he or she possesses? The relationship between art and commerce has become more complicated than ever. As the Internet has given global creatives access to lucrative partnerships with brands and agencies, it seems anyone’s big break is just one direct message away. On the other side of the coin, originality and authenticity is at risk of being trapped in a creative feedback loop, since a saturated visual market bombards modern creatives and consumers with an endless array of images. So how does one still create original works in a world where it seems every story that can be told has been told, or where every perspective seems to have been covered? And more importantly, how does a young creative build exposure for himself or herself when it’s getting harder and harder to set yourself apart from the pack? On today’s show, we speak with Chris Unwin. He launched The Creator Class in November 2014 as an offshoot of his agency, Free. It functions as a cultural incubator to empower a new generation of creatives through education, commercial opportunities, and resources provided by Canon Canada. Joining us is Fabien Montique, a DONDA-affiliated photographer and director who has worked with Kanye West, Zayn Malik, Pusha T, and Virgil Abloh. Montique and Abloh recently debuted an installation at Toronto’s Free Space called “On Fashion and Images,” featuring his unique take on Abloh’s most recent Off-White collection. A coinciding film will be released on thecreatorclass.com on November 24. Links in this story: The Creator Class www.thecreatorclass.com Fabien Montique www.fabien-montique.squarespace.com Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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We’ve seen an uptick in independent and branded small-scale publications—beautiful, limited-edition tomes often with a run that is only in the hundreds. It’s an upscale evolution of DIY zine culture, which saw the proliferation of niche publications like Cometbus, Factsheet Five, and Profane Existence—each one offering a unique perspective on alternative culture. But now brands and high-profile artists are getting in on the action. Kanye West released zines for his two previous Yeezy collections. Frank Ocean created a zine for his latest album, Boys Don’t Cry, which was packed in with a different edit of the record. Nike has made several strides with a slim, substantial tome called On Design, which was limited to just 500 copies and features essays by CEO Mark Parker and works from artist Maria Kalman. It was made to coincide with Milan Design Week. In addition to our own magazine, Highsnobiety recently published our first zine—the cheekily named “Short For Magazine,” featuring behind-the-scenes photos of the Yeezy Season 3 show from staffer Thomas Welch. The ongoing series is meant to be a limited-edition platform to highlight emerging artists, designers, and creatives in a more intimate way. On today’s show, we speak with David Hellqvist. He’s the fashion features editor at PORT magazine, freelance menswear editor, and the publisher of Document Studios. Document partners with brands like Timberland, Spiewak, and adidas to create brand magazines that focus on a unique narrative. The agency’s latest publication, The Gap Document, retells the Gap’s story through the eyes of people like prolific fashion writer Tim Blanks, NEIGHBORHOOD designer Shinsuke Takazawa, and menswear designer Christopher Raeburn, who crafted a one-of-one military jacket in collaboration with The Gap and Document Studios. Links in this story: David Hellqvist www.davidhellqvist.com Document Studios www.documentstudios.com PORT Magazine www.port-magazine.com Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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On this show, we take the Kanye West bus to Yeezy Season 4 presentation on Roosevelt Island in New York city during NYFW. In December 2013 adidas announced a partnership with Kanye West. YEEZY Season 1 made its debut in February 2015 consisting of military-inspired items like distressed sweaters and also saw the debut of high-top 750 Boost and low-top 350 Boost shoes – two models that sell out as quickly as they become available. West’s clothing line fuses hard wearing military silhouettes through a dystopian lens. And it isn’t cheap either: many items are made in the same factories as luxuries labels like Balmain. Last season, West again made headline when he took over Madison Square Garden to show YEEZY Season 3, working again with artist Vanessa Beecroft. He also used the platform to debut his new album, The Life of Pablo. We’re doing things a little differently this show: we’re recording the entire podcast on the charter bus taking us to Roosevelt Island in New York City en route to the venue for YEEZY Season 4. We’ll be talking to some of the attendees to get their first-hand perspective on the show. We’re joined on this podcast by fashion stylist, Matthew Henson; Conde Nast‘s Dirk Standen; KITH men’s apparel buyer, Justin Dean; Harper’s Bazaar fashion features editor, Lauren McCarthy; STORM Copenhagen founder, Rasmus Storm; celebrity stylist, Marcus Paul; and Fashionista executive editor, Alyssa Klein. Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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This episode of Highsnobiety Conversations has Jian DeLeon reporting from the Las Vegas trade shows to discuss The State of the Menswear Market. Ever since the Internet made it easier to know about new clothes and young brands months before any product gets delivered to stores, the fashion tradeshow has gained a new prominence, offering consumers a sneak preview of each season’s upcoming offerings through an editorial perspective. In 1933, an organization called the Men’s Apparel Guild of California started a menswear tradeshow called MAGIC. During the peak of the so-called “urban brand” phase in the late ‘90s, the Las Vegas affair was known for its wild parties and extravagant booths, putting brands like Ecko Unlimited and FUBU on the global map. Now, the scene in Vegas is a bit different. Tradeshows like Liberty, Capsule, Agenda, and Project offer a wide swath of styles for store buyers who have to cater to an increasingly discerning consumer. What does that mean for the buyers with stores who want to balance savvy, covetable products with commercially viable merchandise that help keep a business afloat? What needs to happen to the tradeshow model to make it more easily cater to a faster-paced men’s fashion environment? In part one, we speak with Omar Quiambao. He’s the founder of Commonwealth, a men’s boutique with locations in Virginia Beach, Virginia, Washington, DC, and most recently, the Philippines. We discuss how global fashion culture has affected regional style, and his approach to merchandising for the Filipino consumer. In part two, we speak with Keith Abrams, one of the owners of Kinfolk, a combination men’s shop, lifestyle brand, and nightclub with locations in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Tokyo. He offers some insight on what young brands and independent retailers can still learn from the Vegas tradeshows. Commonwealth: https://commonwealth-ftgg.com Kinfolk: https://kinfolklife.com Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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Under Armour is entering sportswear with UAS during New York Fashion Week 2016. Founded 20 years ago in the city of Baltimore, Maryland, sportswear company Under Armour has quietly become a titan of industry for its best-in-class performance gear that keeps athletes everywhere doing what they do best. Their athlete roster include the likes of Steph Curry, Cam Newton, and Michael Phelps. But now the brand is out to make its mark on the fashion world with Under Armour Sportswear and their just announced new Sport Fashion division. Ben Pruess, Under Armour’s President of Sport Fashion is leading the charge. Having served as Vice President Global Director of adidas Originals for more than six years, Pruess is planting a new flag.He recently appointed fashion designer Tim Coppens as the executive creative director of UAS. Coppens’ pedigree includes work for a variety of luxury labels and his own menswear line that’s caught the eyes of stylish guys and savvy editors alike. A graduate of Antwerp’s prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts—which has educated lauded designers like Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, and Haider Ackermann—Tim Coppens’ clothing have a reputation for mixing in technical fabrics with classic menswear shapes. To put it simply: He designs clothes that look like they’re from the future, but feel right for the present. On this episode, we talk to Ben Pruess about Under Armour’s plan to debut the UAS line at New York Fashion Week, the challenges of reshaping a brand in the digital age, and the changing dynamics between consumers, sport, and their perception of professional athletes. Visit www.highsnobiety.com for more.

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