Dirty Water: The BeachGrit Podcast featuring Chas Smith and Derek Rielly

Damien Hobgood on his Black Death wave and the wipeout that nearly killed him


Listen Later

Almost one decade ago, while filming for Strange Rumblings, Dion Agius and other Globe surfers including Creed McTaggart, sought out the circles of Greenbush in Sumatra, Indonesia. Greenbush is one of those waves where tuberiding to the death is preferable to opening the cat-flap or proning straight.

For surfers such as Craig Anderson and, in our case, Damien Hobgood, it is where their courage and their skills are most visible. I’d heard about Damien Hobgood’s solo session at 12-foot at Greenbush from Dion Agius and Creed McTaggart.

As I swooped on their drinks cabinet they mimicked what they believed had transpired. Giant drops beyond the vertical axis! Circles that were so big that even if a camera had been there it wouldn’t have been able to translate its enormity to pixels.

Damien, see, was in Bali and had heard the wave was going to be good and, short of partners, flew, drove and hopped a boat until he was sitting in the channel of an Indonesia version of Teahupoo, ready to surf solo. And solo he did. The following day, when the swell had dropped but was still a respectable, even horrifying, eight foot, Dion and Creed and the rest of the Globe gang arrived. And Damien, hardened from the previous day, owned it.

“Damo acted like an animal out there, like a man possessed. It was the most insane performance of talent and courage I’ve ever seen,” said Dion Agius. “He did not give one fuck and was getting bounced off the reef and bleeding everywhere and just kept charging.”

In this wide-ranging interview, Damien Hobgood talks hunting Black Death waves, the Teahupoo wave that nearly killed him, culture wars and the true meaning of Christmas.

...more
View all episodesView all episodes
Download on the App Store

Dirty Water: The BeachGrit Podcast featuring Chas Smith and Derek RiellyBy BeachGrit

  • 4.5
  • 4.5
  • 4.5
  • 4.5
  • 4.5

4.5

85 ratings


More shows like Dirty Water: The BeachGrit Podcast featuring Chas Smith and Derek Rielly

View all
Surf Splendor by David Lee Scales

Surf Splendor

608 Listeners

Golf Unfiltered Podcast by Golf Unfiltered

Golf Unfiltered Podcast

79 Listeners

It's Complicated by It's Complicated

It's Complicated

94 Listeners

Mark And Sarah Talk About Songs by Mark Blankenship & Sarah D Bunting

Mark And Sarah Talk About Songs

290 Listeners

AIN'T THAT SWELL by Aintthatswell surf radio

AIN'T THAT SWELL

282 Listeners

The Daily by The New York Times

The Daily

111,479 Listeners

The Monday M.A.S.S. with Chris Coté and Todd Richards by YEW! Media

The Monday M.A.S.S. with Chris Coté and Todd Richards

157 Listeners

Spit! - Surf Podcast by David Lee Scales and Scott Bass

Spit! - Surf Podcast

274 Listeners

Stab Podcasts by STAB

Stab Podcasts

177 Listeners

The Grit! with Chas Smith by David Lee Scales

The Grit! with Chas Smith

250 Listeners

The Boardroom Podcast by Scott Bass

The Boardroom Podcast

151 Listeners

The Raglan Surf Report by The Raglan Surf Report

The Raglan Surf Report

47 Listeners

Waterpeople Podcast by Lauren L. Hill & Dave Rastovich - surf stories & ocean adventures

Waterpeople Podcast

349 Listeners

Get My Job by Get My Job

Get My Job

47 Listeners

Grid Talk F1 Podcast by Grid Talk

Grid Talk F1 Podcast

97 Listeners

Bleav in Gymnastics: Chalk Talk by Bleav

Bleav in Gymnastics: Chalk Talk

50 Listeners

Don't Go Out There Horror Movie Review Podcast by Don't Go Out There Horror Movie Review Podcast, Bleav

Don't Go Out There Horror Movie Review Podcast

276 Listeners

The Lineup with Dave Prodan - A Surfing Podcast by World Surf League

The Lineup with Dave Prodan - A Surfing Podcast

347 Listeners

Mikey Likes You with Mike Catherwood by Bleav

Mikey Likes You with Mike Catherwood

451 Listeners

Native Plants, Healthy Planet by Pinelands Nursery, Bleav

Native Plants, Healthy Planet

292 Listeners

On the Line Rugby Talk by Bleav

On the Line Rugby Talk

28 Listeners

SmartLess by Jason Bateman, Sean Hayes, Will Arnett

SmartLess

57,715 Listeners

The Art of Awesome by Nick Troutman

The Art of Awesome

60 Listeners

Fly on the Wallin with Amber and Ben by Amber & Ben Wallin

Fly on the Wallin with Amber and Ben

1,144 Listeners

Women Changing The Game by A Podcast For Women Working In Sports, Sports Girls Club Network

Women Changing The Game

18 Listeners

Garage Latino by Bleav

Garage Latino

0 Listeners

What Am I Doing Here? with Mike Reiss by Bleav, Mike Reiss

What Am I Doing Here? with Mike Reiss

127 Listeners

Prank YOU! by Bleav

Prank YOU!

40 Listeners

Fish Hunt Nation by Fish Hunt Northwest

Fish Hunt Nation

10 Listeners

Agent Stoker by Bleav

Agent Stoker

93 Listeners

Athletes Journey by Bleav

Athletes Journey

3 Listeners

The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick by The Surfer’s Journal

The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick

231 Listeners

Haunted Homies by Bleav

Haunted Homies

99 Listeners

Noble Rot by Chas Smith

Noble Rot

18 Listeners