Ditch The Store

Joel Salatin - Polyface Farms

https://polyfacefarms.com/

Allan Savory - Holistic Management

https://savory.global/holistic-management/

Peter and Stuart Andrews - Natural Sequence Farming

https://www.tarwynparktraining.com.au/

Richard Perkins - Ridgedale Permaculture

https://www.ridgedalepermaculture.com/about-us.html

Home Biogas Link

https://www.homebiogas.com/product/homebiogas-2/

Denise Duffield-Thomas Money Bootcamp

https://www.denisedt.com/

 Being frugal is not cheap! 

There is a difference between frugal and cheap. Frugal means being economical with regard to money and food. 

Integrating Frugal Practices into Homesteading Lifestyle

Since self-sufficiency means survival without needing assistance from outside, and homesteading is essentially living sustainably, frugality is a vital component of homesteading.

My biggest aim is to own the farm myself, and if living frugally gives me the ability to pay more off each week then it's a no-brainer for me.

The idea behind sustainable living is to live by your own means, so not needing help or assistance or supplies from outside sources. Minimal living, growing your own food, repairing rather than throwing out and buying new. 

Sometimes living frugally means buying great quality the first time so it lasts longer. Socks for example, I am so sick of terrible quality socks that get holes in them, I only buy good quality socks now.

Budgeting and Financial Planning for Homesteaders

Creating a frugal budget that aligns with your homestead's goals and values is very important. If you are a family that needs to have private health insurance, and here in Australia, our private health insurance is something we pay for ourselves, which is different to other parts of the world where it is sometimes included in salary agreements. 

If private health insurance is something that you absolutely have to have then you need to make sure that your frugality aligns with those goals that you have. There is no point in living frugally to the point that it is causing you grief because you can't pay for the things that you feel you must have. 

If wearing new clothes is something that you are very if you're very passionate about then you need to align your goals with that and you may need to cut back in other areas in order to afford the things that you feel you must have the new version of. 

However, if you're the kind of person who can absolutely cut back on certain areas to pay for those important things then you should. Buying second-hand clothing from St Vincent de Paul or other second-hand charity stores is something that I love doing and I would encourage you to do it it's. The clothing there is usually in excellent condition and still has the tags attached in some cases. 

Most importantly write it down. You need to record what you want to spend versus what you are actually spending. 

It's impossible to budget if you don’t actually know what you are spending. 

Also, look for areas you can increase your savingsI have a mortgage offset account that allows me to put the bulk of my money into and then I only move what I need into my spending account. That way I’m helping reduce the interest on my mortgage. 

Gardening for Frugal Food Production

Planning is key to gardening. If you know that you will always use onion and garlic when cooking the best thing you can do is grow plenty of onion and garlic. 

Stopping pests invading your garden will increase output, so sometimes you have to spend money to make or save money.

Seed saving and learning to propagate is the best way to save funds on new plants. You could potentially not have to buy seeds past your first harvest. 

Composting is another way that you can save money by bringing in potting mix or seedling soil. The compost that you turn over on your own property is coming from your kitchen scraps and coming from your green waste. This means that you are not having to purchase anything you can add topsoil to your gardens from your very own kitchen. A huge cost-saving 

Gardening tools & hand tools for gardening can be purchased from your local Green Shed second-hand however there are some tools that you may wish to purchase brand new. For example, the handy helper and I just purchased a brand new axe that was very expensive from Bunnings, our local hardware store. The reason we purchased this particular axe is it comes with a lifetime warranty and therefore we felt that the extra expense of buying the new axe was worth it in that we can always take it back if for example, the handle breaks, even 10 years from now we can take it back to Bunnings and get a new axe. 

Raising Livestock on a Budget

I believe the main way to be cost-effective in keeping livestock comes from one of 2 ways, reducing feed costs and preventing medical costs. 

The first way can be achieved by rotating pastures and ensuring there is sufficient feed in each paddock. With careful planning, you can move stock from paddock to paddock, prior to the grass being damaged or the manure getting too heavy. Resting that paddock while they are in other pastures means by the time the stock return to that paddock, the grass is ready to be eaten again and the parasites have been deprived of a host long enough to kill them.

Medical costs for livestock could definitely be reduced by you teaching yourself how to do things yourself. 

For example, I'm no farrier and I cannot do my horse's feet however I can do my goat's hooves when they need a trim I am more than capable of cutting their hooves back and making sure that they're clean and tidy.

I'm also very capable of worming and drenching my own animals which is another added cost that you would have to pay the vet to do. 

Shearing my Angora goats on the other hand something that I have not been able to teach myself to do. I did attempt to do it at one point and manage to cut one of the goats fairly badly. He handled it very well and was healed fine. However, I have come to the conclusion that it is better in this particular case to pay for a shearer to come in it's something that I may try and learn again down the track but at this stage, it's easier for me to pay somebody to do that job for me. 

Don't be afraid to check at local feed stores to see who has feed for sale cheaper. There is also nothing wrong with asking if there is a discount for buying in bulk that's an option that is available to you 

Also managing your pasture rotation as discussed above, means that you will have to feed less bought feed and you'll be able to have them healthier because they'll be living on clean fresh pasture if you rotate well.

Medical costs can be managed by maintaining livestock health, thus preventing the need for medical intervention. Parasites, both external and internal, when managed many health issues can be prevented. 

The biggest cost that you will have relates to healthcare for livestock in order to avoid having to pay veterinary bills. Vet bills can be huge, the best thing you can do is to keep your livestock as healthy as possible. 

The pasture rotation methods mentioned above have been able to keep our parasite loads at a minimum. Healthy stock means they are less likely to need veterinarian care.

 Preserving and Storing Food for Long-Term Savings

Not only will growing your own food will reduce costs as a fresh food source, but the ability to preserve your harvest to use later means even in the off-season you can reduce grocery costs.

My biggest expense before moving to the farm was groceries. 

Without a doubt, the amount that I was spending at the local supermarket was more than it should have been. By growing my own vegetables and raising my own chickens for butchering I have been able to reduce that cost fairly substantially. 

Once we are producing our own beef that will reduce again.

So work out what you can grow, and what you need to grow. Unfortunately, food is one of those things that you just cannot go without and therefore you need to ensure that you have a system for reducing the cost that you're spending at the supermarket but still feeding your family nutritious and healthy food.

While everyone loves fresh garden produce, when you have an oversupply through the main growing season, you will need to store the excess for when harvest time is done and the soil is resting. 

Learning to preserve will be your best friend, and you don’t need to wait until your gardening is producing to practice. 

Here in southern NSW Australia, we have cherry season around Christmas time. Most families around Canberra will stop and buy their Christmas cherries from roadside stalls, but once the holiday period is done, most people have eaten enough cherries to be over them for another 12 months. I go and buy my cherries after the rush is over, meaning I get them cheap, usually the stall owners are happy to sell a larger quantity at a reduced price to clear out their stock. I then take my cherries home and can them. I don’t grow them myself, but I do can them for use throughout the year. 

The same can be done for any produce. Go to the farmers market later in the day on a Sunday, you will find prices marked down and pick up some real bargains. 

Try your hand at preserving this way and you will quickly understand what you can and can’t do. 

DIY and Self-Sufficiency Projects:

Making your own soap, laundry detergent and other household cleaning products is a great way to save money. 

Animal shelters don’t need to be expensive and purchased as kit forms. All we use here are 4 solid posts cut from trees on the property, 4 smaller trees for the ceiling posts and then corrugated iron. We tend to collect any corrugate we find but we will buy it when needed. 

I feel a real sense of achievement every time the Handy Helper and I get something done on the farm without outside help. 

It might be a girl thing but knowing I can feed my family in the event of a domestic crisis gives me a real sense of well-being.

I have to say the real drive for me behind embracing self-sufficiency is the direct financial benefit that goes towards me paying off the mortgage for the farm much quicker than I would have if I was living above my means. 

I also feel that in this day & age a lot of people do live above their means and they don't know their figures or their cost of living. 

So the satisfaction of knowing that I am living below my means and therefore able to put extra money into the mortgage is a huge benefit for me 

Creative Upcycling and Repurposing:

A great way to reduce costs is recycling and upcycling. Find your local green shed or tip/dump recycling area. They will have so many items they have salvaged and cleaned up for sale. The handy helper built my milking stand from a coffee table that I got from the local green shed for $5. Bargain.

I think most people trying to achieve a sustainable lifestyle are aware of how much waste the average person produces. 

So I feel a bit like I am preaching to the converted, if you are reading this blog, you are probably halfway there if not all the way. 

Sustainable Energy and Resource Management

We are completely off the grid for water, power, gas and waste. When you are responsible for ensuring you have enough utilities, you definitely get better at managing them.

Power considerations are not running electrical items overnight when the sun is not out. 

This meant we ended up scrapping the dishwasher. I don’t like leaving the kitchen dirty before bed, but running a dishwasher overnight was too draining so we just got rid of it and wash by hand. 

I don't put the washing machine on overnight either! In winter we tend to charge everything up and then turn as much power off overnight as possible, to prevent the batteries from draining. 

 Our gas is via a medium-sized gas cylinder that we collect ourselves. I could get a larger one delivered but we don’t use that much gas. 

We have an old-fashioned kettle that sits on our wood stove in winter and in summer we could run the electric jug, you have no idea how much they draw in power! It's crazy.

Income Generation for Homesteaders: 

From Produce to Partnerships

Creating a sustainable income is a vital aspect of homesteading. 

Homesteading is just like so many other small businesses in that it produces a variable income.  

And like many other small businesses, it can be seasonal. If you think of a gift shop in a beachy coastal area. You can guarantee they turn over a higher amount in the summer and holiday seasons than they would in the middle of winter. 

Like farming, the costs of running the business are still there just not the income.

Homesteading is no different really, it's just that our products tend to be best sold fresh and they are fresh during the spring, summer and autumn months. 

While traditional farming practices such as mono-cropping can provide a solid foundation, especially on a very large scale, for smaller farmers diversifying your income streams can help maximize your financial potential. This ensures the long-term viability of your homestead. 

Money is not the baddy here, everyone deserves to be paid what their products are worth. Handmade or regeneratively farmed products are worth more than the standard product for several reasons. 

They are better for the environment if produced regeneratively!

Remember sustainable means to maintain the systems without degrading them, however, regenerative practices recognise the current impact and seek to restore the system while also improving productivity.

This doesn't mean the end for sustainability. There are some systems that are operating well and sustainability is all that is needed right now. Sustainable systems are still awesome, regenerative systems are just better.

So we can all agree we need to earn enough to cover all our costs and pay us a wage that is in line with the fact that we are investing a huge part of our life into producing livestock, plants and all the value-added items that are healthy and if not regenerative then at the very least sustainable.

By this definition, all farmers and homestead owners using these practices should be millionaires.

Sadly we are still waiting for the community to realise the service we provide.

So let's discuss several avenues for income generation that go beyond selling products alone. 

From value-added goods to agritourism, let's dive into the world of diversified income opportunities for homesteaders.

Selling Produce, Products, or Value-Added Goods:

The most common stream of income for homesteaders is selling fresh produce, eggs, fruit, vegetables, honey, nuts, seedlings or seeds. 

Think outside the circle for a second and consider expanding your product range to include value-added goods like jams, preserves, baked goods, or handmade crafts. 

Adding value to your products can significantly increase their market appeal and profitability.

Raw wool for example could be washed, dyed and spun before selling. For example, 1 kg of washed raw is selling on Etsy for $27.50, however, spun wool same weight is selling for $57.45. 

For those on larger acreages don’t be put off by selling whole cows, sheep, goats for meat. 

We have just started looking at selling firewood and timber, which through winter in our cold climate area, is always in demand.

Farm-to-Table:

One option we are yet to try but will likely give a go in summer is to capitalize on the growing interest in local, sustainable food by offering farm-to-table experiences. 

For example, you could host farm dinners, cooking classes, or tasting events that showcase your homestead's bounty. 

By connecting consumers directly with your farm, you can create unique experiences and build a loyal customer base. It also gives you an opportunity to open your farm shop up to people to showcase your products, and possibly make some sales. 

We are considering doing a “meet a goat kid” this spring, to help families understand more about farming 

Agritourism:

This one is big on my list of future income ideas and is using the extra space we have to tap into the growing agritourism industry. 

My goal is to have a tiny house with its own water tank, solar panels, bio-toilet and outside fire pit. Allowing people to come and stay in a rural environment knowing they are not impacting the area. 

I would like to offer welcome baskets of fresh eggs, honey, cheese and preserved food for them to consume or take home with them. This exposes new customers to your products for future purchases. 

If you don’t have the space or you would rather not have people staying on the farm, then offer farm tours or workshops for visitors seeking an authentic agricultural experience. 

This not only generates income but also fosters a deeper connection between urban dwellers and rural life.

Online Platforms for Sales:

It took some time for me to get my head around Shopify and Amazon but I now sell on both. 

Just because we want to live a simpler hand-made life, it doesn’t mean we can’t embrace the power of technology by leveraging online platforms to sell our products. 

Set up an e-commerce store, Shopify, or join established marketplaces, Amazon, Ebay or Etsy, to reach a broader customer base. 

Utilize social media and content marketing strategies to showcase your products and engage with your audience. 

I have found reels on Instagram and Facebook work best for farm-based businesses, as people love seeing videos of our livestock.

I also have a massive following on TikTok, pretty good for an oldie.

Partnerships for Income Generation:

If you have the roadside exposure to have a farm store, you should consider collaborative opportunities with local businesses or artisans to create mutually beneficial partnerships. 

Stock their produce! Remember gone are the days of fierce competition, small business owners are discovering collaboration over competition. There are enough customers for everyone and while your product may not be right for them, your neighbours might be perfect!

Helping a person to find their best buy says a lot about a business owner, and the community remembers that. I am a very strong believer in karma, so sending the goodwill out into the universe will definitely reap rewards.

You could also cross-promotion, join forces for product development, or share resources to reduce costs. By joining forces, you can tap into new markets and expand your reach.

Examples of this might be sharing a market stall, having a modified product produced and sharing the expenses to get the product to market, or going halves in expensive equipment.

Niche Markets:

Identify unique and niche markets that align with your homestead's specialties. 

Are you extremely passionate about pasture-raised livestock or maybe pesticides free?

Hone in on your “thing”, it's your point of difference and should be celebrated.

 You could cater to specific dietary preferences (e.g., organic, gluten-free), focusing on heirloom or rare varieties, or catering to a specific customer segment (e.g., restaurants, specialty stores). 

Finding your niche can lead to loyal customers and higher profit margins because a small loyal band of customers is worth way more than a large unengaged group.

Diversifying income streams is essential for the financial success of a homestead. 

Remember, each income stream requires careful planning, marketing, and dedication. Embrace the opportunities that align with your homestead's values, resources, and goals, and watch your income grow while sharing the beauty of your homestead with the world.

By exploring various avenues such as selling produce, value-added goods, agritourism, online sales, partnerships, and niche markets, homesteaders can generate multiple streams of income and build a resilient and sustainable business. 

Most importantly we need to not “just cover costs” we need to be making a profit appropriate to the work we do to feed, clothe and care for the community.

You need to start with a detailed breakdown of common expenses, including animal feed, seeds, equipment, and utilities. Don't leave anything off the list, including household expenses so you know how much you have to spend on the farm and what you definitely don't have.

Some of the expenses that you need to plan for are recurring costs like veterinary care, maintenance, and supplies. We spend about $200 a fortnight just at the stockfeed store, and that covers chicken, goat and dog feed. The horses are currently being fed, other than the occasional biscuit of hay.                                              

Another cost that can blow the budget very quickly is the costs associated with animal health, vaccinations, and preventive care. For a while last year I was joking that we couldn't get out of vet visit under 2K. 

Don't forget to explore budget-friendly ways to provide quality feed and shelter for livestock. If you can grow pasture like we do for the horses, cows and Angora goats that will absolutely bring costs down. 

I say it all the time to people, know your numbers! Don't guess how much something is going to cost, know how much. It will save you unwanted surprises.

Firstly you need to identify your long-term and short-term homestead goals.

Is this just to save money on living expenses or is your intention to go into business? 

Do you have a mortgage? Are you urban or already rural? 

Once you start, will it be a part-time hustle or are you going full-time? Do you have off-farm employment?

Prioritize your budget based on income in, versus income out. I will keep saying know your numbers! 

If you have land already, what major projects do you need, and how will you pay for them? If you don't have land are you going to start urban homesteading first? 

I really love the online systems that sort finances straight from your banking account into payment types. That being said I am hopeless at using them.

I actually prefer a spreadsheet or Google Sheets version, to keep accurate records and then monitor expenses and income.

Don’t just track but analyse the budget's performance and make necessary adjustments. If what it costs to make a bar of soap equates to a $10 soap bar, it's probably not worth it.

It reminds me how gardens joke that they grow tomatoes and they cost more than store-bought ones. Personally, there is something that's still worth it for me to have the home-grown version. My pasture meat birds taste so good that you really can't compare them to store-bought.

Saving and Investing Strategies

Depending on your age, you do need to consider what will happen when you want to retire. For Australian's this is your superannuation, in USA I believe it's 401K fund. 

Diversifying your income and assets is the best strategy I have been made aware of. Don't have all your eggs in one basket. Share and stocks are good solid investment strategies for the homestead's future. I have also dabbled in Cryptocurrencies, with reasonable success. 

You also need to consider estate planning and passing on the homestead legacy to the next generation. Some kids won't want your homestead! But others may fight over it. Plan now for the best outcome for everyone.

This is the biggest issue for all small business owners, and even if you don't intend to make an income keep in mind that those fluctuations will mean you need to purchase store-bought if the homestead is not producing. Budget during periods of high productivity so that when the low seasons occur you either have enough funds to cover what needs buying off-farm or that your income will be reduced.

Don't forget that maintenance usually happens off-season, when you have the least income coming in. Planning maintenance and preparation for the upcoming season includes having the money to do repairs.

Some craft items, like soap and wool, can be sold year-round. Even eggs if timed right will see you through winter. Our youngest girls came to the point of lay right at the start of winter when the old girls were all going through a moult and hibernation. Explore potential sources of income that would suit you and may cover the winter non-gardening months.

Other alternative income streams like agritourism, workshops, or farm-to-table experiences are all worth considering too.

Big cost improvements like fencing, animal housing, solar panels, water tanks and garden infrastructure, need to be properly planned for in advance. They are not cheap exercises so planning ahead will save a lot of headaches. 

We are desperate to upgrade our solar batteries at the moment. We tried second hand but unfortunately, they were not worth it! Cheap? Yes. Reliable? No.

I wish I had started putting money aside for battery replacements when we first moved in. They are our biggest expense in the house but with good new batteries, we will be set for another 5-10 years.

I used to be embarrassed at my frugality, but now I love it. And it's rubbed off on my kids, they know if they are getting a treat at the supermarket to pick one with a yellow sales tag! Mum is more likely to say yes to a $1 lolly than she is to a $2.50 lolly.

There are lots of free groups on Facebook that have tips for cost-effective gardening, including seed saving, composting, and crop rotation.

Budget for garden supplies or even get second-hand. Become friends with your local green shed, we made our goat milking stand out of an old coffee table.

Don't forget to consider sustainable options that save costs, such as rainwater harvesting or renewable energy. Big expense up front but then you are able to reduce that cost later.

But as I said before allocate funds for eco-friendly initiatives that benefit the homestead in the long run. So put money aside each week into a batteries, solar panel, septic tank and water tank fund.

You'll thank me later.

Seeking Financial Advice and Community Support

There are consulting financial advisors or experienced homesteaders.

The National Debt Helpline is there for those having serious issues. You can reach them at https://ndh.org.au/

It's important to remember, gone are the days of competitive competition. Homesteaders, even those making a full-time income understand collaboration is way more beneficial than competitiveness. 

There are more than enough non-homesteaders to keep us homesteaders in business. We don’t need to be cut-throat about it, and as such most are happy to discuss costs and pricing with new homesteaders. 

Reach out to me if you have any questions, I am more than happy to help.   

Remember, financial planning and budgeting are crucial aspects of maintaining a thriving homestead. 

Even if you're not intending to make a business of your homestead, they can be a very expensive hobby. 

This makes it super important to create a realistic and flexible budget that aligns with your homestead's values, goals, and available resources.

Interview with the Handy Helper

We discuss everything from "Where did you grow up?" and what he thought about chickens and a veggie garden, right through to the first time he had to dispatch a chicken. 

HH also talks about the craziness of goat ownership and beekeeping, and how he is now a convert.

 We cover the topic of moving from the little farm to the big farm, and the trials and tribulations that come with this lifestyle. Including the difficult subject of dispatching animals and how that is a huge hurdle in becoming a homesteader. 

 Lucky for the HH he has very strong and independent women in his family, and this made it easier for him to let CJ be the boss of the farm.

Modern Homesteading 

Modern homesteading refers to a self-sufficient lifestyle—living autonomously, with minimum help from others. In a nutshell, it includes subsistence agriculture, renewable energy sources when possible, home preservation of food, zero-waste living, and, depending on your skills, even homeschooling, and craftwork.

Modern homesteading is a lifestyle, and not one for those afraid of a little manual labour. This approach to self-sufficiency incorporates traditional homesteading practices with modern technologies and sustainable living, the best of both worlds. While there is flexibility in how individuals interpret and implement modern homesteading, here are 10 key principles and features commonly associated with it:

Self-Sufficiency: Modern homesteading emphasizes self-reliance and reducing dependence on external systems by producing a significant portion of one's food, energy, and other essential resources. Depending on your skills and knowledge it could be as simple as a veggie garden and fruit trees, with a small flock of chickens. 

Or you could go next level with a large garden that you could sell or barter the excess, with a large flock of chickens that you sell excess eggs, and maybe even a “killer” lamb in the paddock that you raise to butcher and fill your freezer. 

My goals with Mojo Homestead are big! Go big or go home kinda big. Below is a list;

Feed and provide for my family

To grow enough garden produce and enough excess to preserve for the winter months, 

To have our own supply of goat and cows milk for cheese and yogurt, 

Grow our own beef cattle, goat meat and chicken meat for our freezer, 

Raw honey from our bees,

Fruit and nut trees,

Enough wool for craft projects,

Make our own soaps and candles,

Making an Income

To be selling pasture-raised eggs and chicken meat, 

To be selling raw honey and complete hives,

To be raising poddy steers to sell for meat

To be selling goats milk soap,

To be selling microgreens and vegetables,

To have a Shopify store/Amazon store for selling homestead-related products.

Sustainable Living: Modern homesteaders prioritize sustainable practices that minimize environmental impact. This includes using renewable energy sources, implementing water conservation strategies, practising organic gardening, and employing eco-friendly waste management techniques.

We are off-grid for power, water, gas and sewerage. We also have no garbage service.

We have solar panels and a small wind turbine with batteries to hold the energy. We do have a petrol generator but we are trying to build up a big enough bank to not need it.

We have gas in large cylinders, but we are looking at the biogas digester systems, not sure if it’ll work in the cold.

We have a 110,000-litre water tank and collect rainwater, we also have 5 dams. I’m looking into systems for slowing the water drainage on our property similar to Peter and Stuart Andrews's natural sequence farming techniques. I would love to do the Tawyn Park training courses for this. 

Sewerage is taken care of via an old septic tank (that will need replacing in the next year or 2). 

For the garbage we recycle glasses and plastics, the organic matter gets composted and paper waste gets burnt.

Small-Scale Farming and Gardening: Homesteaders often cultivate small-scale farms or gardens to grow fruits, vegetables, and herbs, and raise livestock for personal consumption. Or if they have a little extra space you could raise/ grow more and sell the excess.

Most homesteaders utilize organic methods, permaculture principles, or regenerative practices to maximize productivity and minimize ecological harm. It doesn't pay to homestead if you treat your soil like crap. 

Return on investment is important and gardeners that don’t look after their environment will never reap the benefits.

Food Preservation and Storage: Modern homesteaders focus on preserving and storing food for long-term use. My big goal at Mojo Homestead is to build an underground root cellar for the storage of food. Don’t tell the Handy Helper cause he will have to help me build it.

Techniques like canning, fermenting, dehydrating, and freezing are commonly employed to extend the shelf life of produce and reduce reliance on store-bought goods.

This means when you have an oversupply in summer you can preserve food for winter when your garden is not producing.

Melissa K Norris from the USA has some awesome tips and highly recommend following her on Insta. https://www.instagram.com/melissaknorris/

DIY Skills and Handcrafting: Homesteaders develop a wide range of DIY skills to maintain and repair infrastructure, build structures, create homemade products, and engage in crafts like woodworking, soap-making, knitting, or beekeeping. 

Being able to produce household items like soap and wool is one of my major goals. I would also love to get to a point where I can produce enough soap to sell it. 

And of course, these skills promote self-sufficiency and reduce dependency on external services.

Resourcefulness and Minimalism: Modern homesteading encourages resourcefulness and minimalistic living. While I definitely don’t consider myself a minimalist, I have way too much “stuff” for that. I do live fairly frugally, we don’t buy anything we don’t absolutely need. 

We are also very handy with collecting second-hand items and repurposing them. My milking station is made from a coffee table that we got at our local green shed. Is it perfect? No. Will I improve on it? Yes, when time and money permit.

Because we are in a tiny home, we really don’t have the space for lots of stuff. I do have plans to build an outdoor kitchen for summertime.

It involves making do with what is available, repurposing items, reducing waste, and embracing a simpler, less consumer-driven lifestyle.

Connection to Nature and Land Stewardship: Homesteaders value their connection to nature and prioritize land stewardship. 

While I would like to get all woo-woo about this it's actually very practical. If we don’t treat nature and our environment with care, we will not be able to utilise it. 

This is done through a variety of practices. Although they are all similar with only slight variations and could be listed as permaculture, regenerative agriculture, or sustainable land management. The main goal is to promote biodiversity, soil health, and ecosystem resilience.

Community Engagement and Collaboration: Homesteaders often foster connections with like-minded individuals, neighbours, and local communities. 

Unfortunately, in Australia, the movement isn’t as prominent as in the USA. I’m hoping that as more of us come to this lifestyle, community groups will grow. 

Having groups that engage in community-supported agriculture, bartering, or sharing knowledge and resources to build a supportive network would be awesome.

Education and Skill Sharing: Continuing on from point 8, modern homesteaders value ongoing learning and often participate in workshops, classes, or online communities to expand their knowledge. 

I love the phrase “You don’t know what you don’t know”. A key characteristic of modern homesteaders is their enthusiasm for learning new skills that will make them more self-sufficient.

Most homesteaders are happy to help out with “newbie” homesteaders questions and they are usually willing to share their expertise with others, teaching skills related to homesteading, sustainability, or self-sufficiency.

Flexibility and Adaptability: Modern homesteading acknowledges that every homestead is unique, and practices are adaptable to individual circumstances, geographical location, and personal preferences. 

Don’t ever feel that you have to do something just because other homesteaders are. 

Butchering your own livestock might be the last thing on your mind, and it's okay to say that is not what I want to be doing right now. In a couple of years, things could change and you might be ready to move towards that level of self-sufficiency. 

You may never feel comfortable with livestock dispatch and preparation, and that is fine too.

As a modern homesteader, you need to embrace flexibility and adjust your practices based on your specific needs and available resources.

You don’t need to be on 500 acres to homestead, realistically you don’t even need 100 acres like I have. 

You could start in your backyard! Certainly, I stretched my wings more when we moved to the small farm which was 2.5 acres. I had veggies gardens, fruit and nut trees on the horticulture front. Livestock included chickens, 2 milking goats and a beehive. 

Starting small allows you to cut your teeth before you moved to a larger homestead. And decide if it's really for you!

If urban homesteading suits your circumstances, then go for that and get a feel for it. 

If you’re like me, don’t be surprised if you want to move to the larger scale before too long.

Raising your own chicks can be an awesome experience, especially for a family to do together. Your children will enjoy watching the chicks grow and have a greater understanding of food production and the cycles of life.

You will also have the benefit of having hand-raised chickens! This means they, depending on the breed, will likely be very tame and happy to be handled. 

Choosing the Right Breed

In my chicken breeds Webinar, I go into a lot of detail on selecting the right breed, with the main points to consider being forage abilities, climate suitability, egg production, space requirements, noise levels, and breed availability. 

Choosing carefully can mean you have a flock that fits into your family and circumstances beautifully, ensuring a harmonious and thriving flock in your backyard.

Popular chicken breeds that are suitable for egg production include Australorps, Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock, Leghorn, Sussex, Orpington, and Wyandotte. 

All these breeds are stars of the backyard chicken-keeping scene with their size, temperament, and egg production all working well in backyard flocks.

Sourcing Day-Old Chicks

Day-old chicks are generally sourced from commercial hatcheries. This will mean they will come to you vaccinated and sexed if that's what you request. Some hatcheries are better than others when it comes to sexing chickens, but most will take any roosters off your hands if they have made a mistake. 

Don’t be shy to go to the hatchery and view the environment for yourself, just keep in mind this will be a commercial production and while animal welfare is a consideration, after all the hatcheries need healthy chicks to sell. You may be confronted with handling and living conditions that you are not used to. They are a business and the business is hatching and getting chicks out the door to their new homes.

Other options include your local produce store, which may well have older birds for sale also. I have also sourced chickens from Gumtree in Australia (I’m going to guess that Craigslist may be the US equivalent?). From these types of sources, it is buyer beware. I have purchased “fertile” eggs that were not all fertile, I have purchased 6 sexed chickens, only to have 2 roosters in the bunch. When buying from these sources you really don’t get any solid guarantees, but you can also get some bargains if you are on a budget.

Preparing the Brooder

To raise chickens from day-old up until they are 6-8 weeks they will need to have a heat source. This is called a brooder. It needs to be draft-free, with constant heat but also one they can move away from. If they cannot move away from the heat source they can overheat and die. The heat sources used by some people are a fire risk, and not recommended. We use a heat plate that will not burn you if you touch it and release an ambient heat the chicks really thrive on. 

The bedding needs to be absorbent and warm. We use pine shavings as we can add layers over a 2-week period to absorb manure and then clean it out and start again. The used bedding is a great addition to my compost.

You will also need feeders and waterers in the brooder, the kind that cannot be knocked over, spillage just makes more work. Also raising them slightly will prevent manure and bedding from being flicked into them.

Temperature and Lighting

The temperature for days olds needs to be at around 33 degrees Celsius ( 91F), but the best way to know if you have it right is to watch the chicks. If they are continuously under the heat source they are likely too cold, if they are at the other end of the brooder avoiding the heat then it's likely too hot. Ideally, you want to see them moving freely between food, water and heat. 

The temperature can be reduced each day if your heater has that ability. Our heat plate doesn't so we have doors and windows that can be opened for a couple of hours we also expand our brooder to give the chicks more space, and therefore more time away from the heat source.

Chicks cannot be left outside without heat until they are fully feathered, as their down feathers will not be enough. This is usually around the 6-week mark, depending on the breed. Once they are fully feathered is best to gradually give them time outside on the grass. Starting with maybe just an hour and building up to all day, and this should be by around the 8-week point. 

As long as you are not in the middle of winter and snow, your 8-week-old chicks will do fine outside as long as they have a shelter that is sun, rain and windproof. 

It's a good idea to have a light source in the brooder if there is no natural light. Ideally, have it set on a timer to coincide with the sunrise and sunset in your area. This will help the chickens regulate their own body clocks to the season before leaving the brooder.

The regulation of light will also assist your hens laying, as that is vital to controlling their egg production.

Feeding and Nutrition

Chicks need high protein feed, they are growing, and you’ll be surprised just how quickly they do, and need feed to help with the growth rate. Chick starter is usually 18-22% protein and they need this until around 8 weeks of age. They can then move to adult feed or grower feed until they begin egg production. At that point layer pellets are the best option.

Chick starter with the medication to prevent coccidiosis is essential. Coccidiosis will easily kill chicks. If you don't want to feed medicated you can purchase unmedicated but I don’t recommend that. 

It also goes without saying that they must have access to clean fresh water at all times.

Health and Disease Prevention

Vaccination!!!! I trust the science on this one, I have seen first-hand what Marek's disease can do, and it's not pretty. If you really don’t want vaccinated chickens that is your choice but you then must be prepared to dispatch any chickens that come down with these common and vaccine-preventable illnesses. 

So that said the main health issues for young chicks relate to hygiene. The bedding must be changed if it is too soiled. We find adding a layer when they are very young (1-2 weeks) but once they are around the 3-week mark it becomes necessary to clean the brooder about every 2-3 days. Once they hit the 6-week mark, and are outside during the day it's much easier to keep it clean. 

I also feed medicated chick starter as it will help prevent coccidiosis, which will kill young chicks. Some people are averse to feeding medicated feed but my theory is if humans are prepared to take Ivermectin then they should be fine with medicating animals. And as I said earlier if you choose not to medicate be prepared to dispatch sick birds.

Something to be aware of when raising chicks in a brooder is if one chick gets sick you need to be able to isolate. One sick chick in a brooder can easily turn in 5 sick chicks and the next thing you know you have lost the lot. 

Socialization and Handling

The best part of raising chicks in a brooder is that you will be able to handle them daily from day one. This means you will end up with tame, easily handled-chickens. As we have grown our flock in size we have lost some of this tameness. Which I find a real shame. 

Most important if you have small children always stay with them when they are handling chickens, in their excitement I have seen toddlers put a stranglehold on a chick and nearly crush it. It's vital to teach them to be gentle when handling chicks and this will help promote the chick's trust in humans and reduce stress.

Transitioning to the Coop

Around the 8-week mark, depending on the weather, chicks can be moved to a coop. I try to do it gradually by using a rabbit hutch to give them a week outside during the day before moving them to the coop permanently. 

If you have a sheltered coop they could go straight in, remembering my chickens are pasture raised and therefore are out in the open. 

It is a really good idea to have some small roosting bars when they first go into a coop particularly if they are moving into an already established flock. They will need to find their own place in the pecking order. Unless existing birds are very low in aggression I don’t recommend putting 8-week-olds straight into a coop with them, but rather gradually introducing them. 

Enjoying the Rewards

Congratulations! If you got your chicks to 10 weeks old you have done an eggcellant job! Mortality rates of 1-5% in the first 2 weeks are not uncommon or unheard of. 

You are now officially a chicken mama (or papa) and will become addicted to chicken raising very quickly. 

Whether you're a seasoned poultry pro or just dipping your toes into the feathered world of backyard flocks, one thing's for sure – chickens come in a dazzling array of breeds, each with their own unique personality and charm. 

In this egg-citing blog post, we'll take a look at some of the popular chicken breeds here in Australia and from around the world, and even delve into the intriguing world of eggs that come in a kaleidoscope of colours.

Classification of Chicken Breeds

Let's start by understanding the classification of chicken breeds. Heritage breeds, hybrid breeds, and bantam breeds each bring their own flair to the coop. 

Heritage

Hybrid

Mature slowly and live 6-12 years

Fast maturing and only live 3-4 years

Depending on breed lay 3-6 eggs a week

Lay an egg a day but only for about 2 years

Will go broody depending on breed and make great mothers

Rarely go broody

Self-sufficient, can thrive with foraging

Not great forages

Retains natural behaviors and instincts

Selectively bred for specific production traits

Long-established history and lineage, greater genetic diversity

Result of crossing different breeds so narrowing genetic pool

Wide range of appearances, sizes, and colors

More standardized appearance

Valued for historical significance and preservation

Bred for optimized production purposes

Well-suited for a variety of purposes

Specialized for specific production traits

May have longer lifespans and natural reproductive abilites

Primarily bred for commercial production, less likely to be used for natural breeding

Bantams

Some large chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, sometimes referred to as a miniature. Miniatures are usually one-fifth to one-quarter the size of the standard breed, but they are expected to exhibit all of the standard breed's characteristics. A true bantam has no large counterpart, and is naturally small. There are only a few true bantams, with the Seabright being one.

Popular Chicken Breeds

First up, let's talk about some true-blue Aussie favorites. The Australorp, renowned for its exceptional egg-laying abilities, hails from Australia. These hardworking ladies can lay up to 300 brown eggs per year, making them a staple in many Aussie backyards. Their shiny black feathers shimmer like the night sky, and their friendly nature makes them a delight to have around.

Other beloved and well-known chicken breeds include the Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock, Leghorn, Sussex, Orpington, and Wyandotte All these breeds are stars of the backyard chicken-keeping scene. In my Webinar I go into a lot more detail exploring their size, temperament, and egg production to help you make an informed choice for your flock.

Specialty Chicken Breeds

Prepare to be dazzled by the unique and lesser-known chicken breeds. Silkies, Polish, Frizzles, Seramas, and Cochins boast distinctive physical features that set them apart. From fluffy feathering to extravagant crests, these breeds are sure to add charm and character to any coop. 

Some of these speciality breeds are especially well suited to a backyard environment due to their small size.

Dual-Purpose Breeds

Many of our heritage favourties fall into the dual purpose category, which is great for those seeking versatility, egg-laying and meat production. While some homesteaders are not interested in dispatching their own animals for meat, I have found those who are trying to homestead full-time or for an income, are very keen to become completely self-sufficient. Meat birds are a simple way to do this even with only a small amount of land.

Our favourites in the dual purpose world are the Australorp, Jersey Giant, and New Hampshire breeds, which excel in both meat and egg production. The benefit of raising dual purpose is you will always have meat and eggs! 

I have raised both hybrid meat and heritage meat, each having pro’s and con’s. Hybrid grow out within 8 weeks making them super cheap and efficient, however they seem prone to dying if you keep them past the 8 week mark. Heritage meat birds take longer to grow out but I find they are hardy healthwise and bigger, and I think, better quality meat.

Chicken Breeds that Lay Different Colored Eggs

I have a soft spot for my Easter Eggers, I think its so cool that nature has given us these amazing coloured eggs.

Breeds that lay unusual eggs are Aracuana, Ameraucana, Cream Legbar, Maran, Barnevelder, Welsummer, Olive Eggers and Easter Eggers. Olive and Easter eggers arent actual breeds but the result of crossing brown egg layers with the blue egg layers, given a genetic difference to the offspring. 

The colours you can get vary from very dark browns to blue, green and even a pink tone.

Hybrid Layers

Hybrid or sex-link chicken breeds are next on our list, bringing with them impressive egg production and efficiency. The ISA Brown, Golden Comet, and Red Star are renowned for their ability to deliver a consistent supply of delicious eggs. They are essentially laying machines, hence why they are the bird of choice for commercial egg producers. 

While I love all our girls I find these don’t have the same personality traits as our heritage breeds. There egg production will drop off after about 18 months and most commercial produces will remove them at that age as they are no longer feed to egg ratio efficient.

Rare and Exotic Breeds

Some breeds are much harder to obtain in either Australia or the USA and these include Ayam Cemani, Crèvecœur, Dragon Chickens, Phoenix, and Appenzeller Spitzhauben. Some of these birds are keep and bred for showing purposes due to their unique appearances. 

Groups like the Rare Breeds Trust are making conservation efforts to ensure the breed continues but you would likely find it hard to obtain these breeds.

Breed Selection Considerations

Before choosing a chicken breed, it's crucial to consider various factors and I go into detail in my Webinar on Chicken Breeds. The main considerations are forage abilities, climate suitability, egg-production, space requirements, noise levels, and breed availability. Choosing carefully can mean you have a flock that fits into your family and circumstances beautifully, ensuring a harmonious and thriving flock in your backyard.

Personal Preference

I have no problem in saying that personal preference plays a part in your choice, and so it should. When you choose to add a dog or cat into your home you would pick a breed that you prefer. Even if choosing a dog or cat from a shelter, personal preference will still be a factor. 

So don’t feel bad that you have a preference over chicken breeds! While I would like to have all the chickens, its not practical, so you need to narrow it down.

No matter which breed you choose, owning chickens is as varied as a dog or cat ownership. 

Each of our girls has their own special personalities and we love them all. Some are chatty, some will follow you around, some have beautiful or funny feathers and some lay coloured eggs.

Chicken Coops

Size and Space: The coop should be spacious enough to comfortably accommodate the number of chickens you plan to keep. As a general guideline, provide at least 0.3m2 (4 square feet) per chicken inside the coop and 0.7 - 0.9 m2 (8-10 square feet) per chicken in the outdoor run area.

Security: Even in an urban environment, chickens still have predators. It is vital that coops are predator-proof to keep your chickens safe from predators like neighbourhood dogs, cats, birds of prey and rats. Use sturdy materials, secure locks, and wire mesh with small openings to prevent entry.

Ventilation: Proper airflow is crucial to prevent moisture buildup and ammonia fumes. Include vents or windows that can be opened and closed to regulate temperature and airflow within the coop. The best way to tell if you need more ventilation is to put your head into your coop, if the smell of ammonia is strong to you then it's also strong for them.

Nesting Boxes: Provide comfortable and private nesting boxes for your hens to lay their eggs. Each nesting box should be around 30x30 cm and lined with clean bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings.

Roosting Bars: Chickens prefer to roost off the ground. Install sturdy and appropriately sized roosting bars or branches inside the coop, allowing 15-20 cm of space per chicken. This is way more important than new chicken owners think.

Easy Cleaning: Design the coop with easy access for cleaning. Include a removable tray or floor that can be easily cleaned and replaced with fresh bedding. New bedding options are crushed metal and coffee grounds. Poop can easily be collected with a kitty litter scoop.

Natural Light: Incorporate windows or skylights to allow natural light into the coop. Natural light helps regulate the chickens' internal clock and can positively impact their overall health and egg production. 

Weather Protection: Consider weather conditions in your area and ensure the coop provides adequate protection from rain, wind, and extreme temperatures. Proper insulation and weatherproofing can help keep your chickens comfortable.

Feeding and Watering: Include feeding and watering stations that are easily accessible and protected from contamination. Consider hanging or elevating feeders and waterers to prevent spillage and keep them clean.

Noise Reduction: Chickens can be noisy, especially if you keep roosters, which most councils will not allow. But even noisy hens can cause issues. If you have close neighbours, consider soundproofing measures or opt for quieter chicken breeds that don't produce loud crowing.

Remember to check your local council zoning regulations for any specific requirements or restrictions regarding coop construction and placement in urban areas. 

I have spoken before about fighting your council if they refuse. Gather information about victory gardens and regenerative agriculture, and prepare yourself for the arguments they may present. 

Prioritize the well-being, safety, and comfort of your chickens when designing and building the coop.

Link to some nice chicken coops (no affiliation ... yet)

https://mjbinspired.au/

Nutrition for Backyard Chickens

Balanced feed: I know a lot of people who are homesteading like the idea of making their own chicken feed, and indeed I think you could provide supplemental feed for chickens from homegrown produce. However, that being said, commercially formulated, balanced chicken feed will always meet the nutritional needs of your flock. And as we will discuss later it's the vitamin and minerals that need to be included to ensure abundant egg-laying.

Protein requirements: Chickens need a sufficient amount of protein in their diet, particularly when they are growing or laying eggs. Baby chicks have special dietary requirements but from 6-7 weeks onwards they need 17-18% protein, and laying hens need around 16%. During a moult or wintertime, they can be fed a diet of up to 20% protein.

Calcium for eggshell production: Calcium is crucial for strong eggshell formation, so make sure to provide a calcium source such as crushed oyster shells or calcium supplements.

Grit for digestion: Chickens don't have teeth, so they need grit (small rocks or commercial grit products) to help them grind and digest their food properly. There are two types of poultry grit: oyster shell grit and flint grit. Oystershell grit is a type of calcium that helps make eggshells stronger. Insoluble grit, also known as flint grit, helps chickens with digestion. You can purchase this with both types of grit premixed.

Freshwater: Ensure a constant supply of clean, fresh water for your chickens. Water is essential for digestion, nutrient absorption, and overall health. Drip feeders with stay cleaner but you need to ensure they are always working. Appropriate treats: While treats can be given in moderation, avoid excessive feeding of sugary, fatty, or processed foods. Stick to healthy treats like fruits, vegetables, and mealworms. If you want to feed scratch mix try to limit it to once a week as we have noticed performance drop when they are having too much scratch.

Access to forage: Allow your chickens to forage in a secure outdoor area if possible. This allows them to supplement their diet with bugs, worms, grass, and other natural food sources. Seasonal considerations: Adjust your chickens' diet based on seasonal variations in activity levels, temperature, and egg production. Certainly, you could purchase pellets with a higher protein content during the winter months.

Limiting toxins: Avoid feeding your chickens harmful substances like caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, onions, garlic, and mouldy or spoiled food. There is always debate about what can or can’t be fed to chickens.

Nutritional deficiencies: Be aware of common nutritional deficiencies in chickens, such as vitamin deficiencies (e.g., vitamin D, E, or B12) or mineral deficiencies (e.g., selenium, zinc, or iodine). Consult with a veterinarian if you suspect any deficiencies or imbalances in your flock's diet.

Calcium Deficiency: Calcium is essential for the formation of strong eggshells. A lack of calcium in the diet can result in thin or weak eggshells, shell-less eggs, or an increased likelihood of egg breakage.

Protein Deficiency: Protein is crucial for egg production. Inadequate protein intake can lead to decreased egg production, smaller eggs, or eggs with poor shell quality.

Vitamin D Deficiency: Vitamin D is necessary for proper calcium absorption. A deficiency in vitamin D can hinder calcium utilization, resulting in soft or thin-shelled eggs and reduced egg production.

Vitamin E Deficiency: Vitamin E plays a role in reproductive health. A lack of vitamin E may cause reduced fertility, decreased hatchability, or abnormal embryo development.

Vitamin B12 Deficiency: Vitamin B12 is important for energy metabolism and nerve function. Deficiency can lead to reduced egg production and poor eggshell quality.

Selenium Deficiency: Selenium is an essential trace mineral involved in various metabolic processes. Its deficiency can result in reduced egg production, poor hatchability, and weak immune function.

Iodine Deficiency: Iodine is necessary for proper thyroid function, which affects overall metabolism and egg production. A deficiency in iodine may lead to reduced egg production or delayed sexual maturity in pullets.

Omega-3 Fatty Acid Deficiency: Omega-3 fatty acids contribute to the nutritional quality of eggs. Chickens fed a diet deficient in omega-3 fatty acids may produce eggs with lower levels of these beneficial fats.

Remember, nutritional needs may vary depending on factors such as breed, age, egg production, and health conditions. If you are unsure find a produce or stockfeed shop near you and speak to someone there. They usually have a wealth of information about the different feeds.

Both of our local stockfeed stores have also ordered new feed in for us, and we have then given them feedback about the results from the feed to help improve their knowledge also. It's important to note that nutrition deficiencies are typically the result of imbalanced or inadequate diets.

I can’t stress enough that commercial well-balanced chicken feed will give your flock the best coverage for the least effort on your part. If you then supplement with appropriate treats, access to forage, and necessary mineral sources can help prevent these deficiencies and support optimal egg production.