Walking your dog is a crucial part of raising and training them; thus, knowing the two types of dog walks can make a HUGE difference to your training experience.

"Doggy Dan, is there more than just one way to do dog walks?"

Yes… and my goal is to help dog owners tap into the power of switching walking styles to make the most out of dog walks.

In this blog, I will talk about the two types of dog walks, why you need to know both, and how to know which type to use best.

Read on to learn more.

All walk and no play makes your dog a very irritable and restless pet.

A common misconception among dog owners regarding walking dogs is that there's only one walking style to follow from start to finish.

As a dog trainer who has helped dogs and their owners make walks effective while having fun, I know that sticking to one walking style can make your time outdoors an absolute struggle!

Because let's be honest: our dogs are playful, and the outdoors is the perfect setting for unleashing their love for fun!

Expecting them to follow one style of walking (and nothing else!) sets you and your dog up for frustration!

So, what do you do to make outdoor walks more effective? Here are the two types of dog walks you should follow.

The first dog-walking style is the “structured walk”.

Even though it is not THE ONLY walk you can do, it is undoubtedly the most important walk you should master.

Most dog owners feel this type of walk is the gold standard, the only way to do things. (More on this later.)

During the structured walk, your dog walks with a leash, and you absolutely are in control of the entire walk.

You give commands, you decide what your dog can and can't do, and your dog is expected to follow your charge.

This is the walking style that tells your dog, "I am in charge of the walk. I make the decisions. You listen to my commands."

When you engage in a structured walk, you drive the entire walk, and your dog has to follow YOUR charge.

Now, this walking style is what your dog loves!

The walk becomes social when your dog can roam free and do what they want for a time.

The walk doesn't have a structure, and dogs are more accessible to sniff posts, or check out areas they want to see.

Compared to The Structured Walk, this more relaxed option allows your dog to really have fun and socialize!

Walking your dog the structured way sends them this important message: you're in charge of the walk, not them.

The Structured Walk is crucial because it can solve typical dog walking problems such as leash pulling, aggression, overexcitement, and outdoor anxiety.

Sure, you will be giving your dog the freedom to roam around and freely explore, but before you do that, your dog must understand you make the calls.

And it is during the structured walks that your dog firmly gets the message that makes them say, "Ahh, I should listen to my owner's commands before I do anything during the walk."

I actually talk more about The Structured Walk in my blog on the best way to walk dogs, the fifth in my Five Golden Rules series.

In a nutshell, The Structured walk is critical because it teaches your dog they're not in charge. And when your dog knows they don't make the calls, they relax, they become less aggressive, and they come to your call (which is an absolute need if you're going to switch to The Social Walk).

The Social Walk is about having fun!

Here's the truth: we can't expect our dogs to spend the entire 30 minutes of their time outdoors just following a structured walk.

They're already outdoors; they need to explore, run, sniff, and play.

The social walk allows your dog to enjoy a little fun and downtime during your walk.

So, how do you know which walk to choose between the types of dog walks?

If you live in a city with limited free space for your dog to roam around, most of your dog walks will be structured (aka, dog on a leash with you commanding your dog what to do).

However, if your place has ample space, I recommend using the first five to ten minutes of your time outdoors doing a structured walk BEFORE letting your dog walk more freely.

I also recommend using a Structured Walk at the start and the end of EVERY walk to establish and re-establish your role as the one in charge of your time outside.

Before you stop the Structured walk to make the switch to Social, I encourage you to ask the following questions:

• Is my dog coming to me when I call them?

If safety is an issue for your dog and others, I recommend staying on structured walks before it's absolutely safe to give them freedom.

Your dog WILL become restless after a few minutes of Structured Walks. The outdoors is so exciting for them to stay still.

There is a problem if you wait for your dog to pull the leash before you allow them to have their free time.

Because a simple tug on the leash is like your dog saying, "Hey, it's fun time!" when you give in to the pull, you're sending the message that your dog makes the call.

So here's what I recommend you do:

• Assess when your dog starts becoming restless. Observe how long into the walk they start pulling the leash.

Think of structured walks like school time, where your dog learns the rules, and social walks like playtime, where they just get to be a dog. Mixing it up means your dog gets a healthy dose of discipline and fun!

Ever get bored of the same old routine? Your dog does, too! Switching between structured and social walks keeps things interesting for both of you. It's like sometimes you're the teacher, and other times you're both just pals exploring the world together.

On structured walks, you're the boss, and your dog learns to follow the leader — that's you! But you show them you're not the uptight, no-fun leader during social walks. You still let them have fun. This balance shows your dog that you're not just in charge, but you're also their buddy who loves to see them happy.

With a clear plan for each walk, you're not juggling too much at once. Structured walks focus on training, while social walks are all about exploration and play. This means your dog learns better and faster, and you both enjoy your time more.

Mixing walks can really cut down on those pesky walking issues. Structured walks nip destructive behaviors in the bud by reinforcing your leadership. Social walks let your dog burn off that extra energy and curiosity in a positive way. Together, they make for a smoother, more enjoyable walk.

Dog walks are my favorite thing in the world.

It gives me and my dogs a mighty great time when done right!

However, I understand so many things can go wrong when walking a dog. This is why The Walk is a big part of The Doggy Dan Five Golden Rules. When dog walks are done right, YOU CAN BE THE ABSOLUTE LEADER IN THE EYES OF YOUR DOGS.

If you want to do both types of dog walks, I recommend you check out The Dog Calming Code where I talk more about Rule #5: Dog Walks.

Because when your time outdoors with your dog is done well, the benefits are amazing!

When dog owners come to me for help on how to stop leash pulling, I feel for them, especially when I hear the frustration in their voices.

It's understandable why having a dog pulling the leash can be such a pain! If all you want is to enjoy a quiet, peaceful walk with your dog, the constant struggle for control can be exhausting.

And most of the time, the leash pulling happens at the start of the walk, making you wonder, "Is going out for a walk even worth it?"

Why do dogs do this? Why is there even a power struggle? And should you persist?

In this blog, I will talk about my biggest theory of why dogs pull the leash at the start of every walk… and what you can do to change it.

Read on to learn more.

• Understand the Instincts: Dogs pull on the leash due to instincts derived from their wolf ancestors, seeing walks as a time for hunting and leading. They will naturally take the Alpha role if they don't sense a leader, hence the pulling.

You walk to the door; your is already pulling on the leash.

You step outside down the stairs, and your dog pulls and pulls as if telling you to "Hurry up!"

Your time outdoors is all about having to regain control of the leash.

If you've experienced the things I mentioned above, you get how challenging it is to have a dog who wants to take charge of the walk from start to finish.

But why do dogs pull the leash at the start of every walk?

Let me answer that using dog psychology.

You see, our dogs have the DNA of a wolf — 99.98%, to be exact. Why is this significant? Because how your dog acts can be connected to how wolves act in the wild.

For the wolves, everything is about survival. When they head outdoors, a walk is not just a walk; it's all about hunting for food.

The most interesting thing about wolves is they don't push through with their walk until the Alpha — the pack leader — steps in to lead the way, signals "Let's go!" and goes on to make all the big decisions.

Even though our dogs have become more domesticated than their ancestors, they still think like wolves.

Someone has to lead, someone has to decide, someone has to be followed, someone has to call the BIG shots.

FACT: If your dog doesn't feel like an Alpha is in charge, they will take over.

Why?

Because dogs, by nature, will always look for the leader. If that isn't filled, they immediately have to assume the role.

It’s hardwired into the DNA.

And leaders lead…thus, your dog is out front and there is endless leash pulling, especially at the start of every walk.

Have you ever observed your dog becoming more in tune whenever the walk happens? They're gearing up to make the big decisions!

So… what can you do?

Control is a powerful concept in dog psychology!

Why? Because your dog knows control is essential for survival. The Alpha is their protector! The Alpha tells them how to survive the wild and find food.

Your dog pulling the leash shows they have taken the role of the Alpha. Their pulling sends the message, "I'm making the big decisions now. I will tell you what to do!"

So when your dog pulls the lead, they aren't deliberately disobeying you or getting on your nerves.

They pull the lead because they feel they're the pack leader, and they need to make every crucial decision to make the walk successful because that's what pack leaders do.

The biggest solution to stop leash pulling is to actually show your dog they can pass on the hat of leadership to you.

Here are some ways you can do it.

Just as the Alpha wolf leads the pack, you need to establish yourself as the leader of your pack.

I want to be very clear: to stop leash pulling, you need to be the leader of EVERYTHING, and not just of walking outdoors.

Some dog owners assume they only need to show their authority and leadership during the walk, and what happens before or after the walk doesn't matter.

I 100% encourage you to take charge of everything, from the walk to the feeding to giving affection and attention.

Becoming the leader in your dog's eyes requires an all-round approach, and that's why I made my online dog training program, The Dog Calming Code™️.

This dog training program is dedicated to helping you become an all-round leader in your dog's eyes by guiding you on how to feed dogs, give attention, respond to calls for danger, and how walks should be done.

So when you need to go outdoors, your dog already knows who to listen to!

When it comes to walking, I recommend these simple options if you're looking for a way to incorporate discipline during your time outdoors.

Do the pause if your dog starts pulling the leash. This consequence is your way of saying "Hey, we won't continue walking if you keep on pulling."

Wait 2-5 minutes and see if your dog stops the pulling the lead.

If pulling, aggression, or rowdiness doesn't stop after a couple of pauses, turn the other way around and abandon the walk. I know this could be heartbreaking, especially when your dog has been looking forward to time outdoors. However, doing the 180 can help your dog understand that ultimately, YOU are the decision maker, the one in charge, and they should be listening to you.

Your dog will eventually get it, and will follow habits you expect them to do.

This one is crucial because how you walk out of the house predicts how your walk will go.

Even if you've already showed you're the leader, one power move from your dog can change the dynamics.

What do I mean by this?

I mentioned earlier that dogs are all about control. Your dog is smart and will subtly challenge your leadership before the walk.

Some dogs will attempt to jump through the door before you do as if to say "Ha! I lead now!"

Sometimes, dogs will attempt to take control by tugging at you, or handing you the leash to tell you "Hey, it's time for my walk!"

In both circumstances, if you give in to your dog, you WILL lose control.

So before stepping out of the house, here are three things I want you to remember:

You need to be the CEO of the walk every. single. time.

This concept means if your dog attempts to go in front of you, you calmly lead them back to your side to walk WITH you.

Don't let your dog have any semblance of control.

I talk more about this in my blog about the Doggy Dan Rule #5: How to Walk Your Dogs.

The main principle: the go signal comes from you and not from your dog.

Sure, your dog will attempt to convince you to bring them outside whenever they want. This could be tempting, especially when they can't hide their eagerness. But stay strong, furmom and furdad.

Ignore the request for a few minutes then call your dog. Doing this establishes that you — not them — decide when the walk should happen.

Keep an eye on your dog's behavior to see if you should push through with the walk.

Some factors that indicate you should not push through include:

• a high energy that doesn't go down

If you see these factors in your dogs, don't hesitate to call a rain check on your walk.

Your dog can sense your emotions, so if you're tense or frustrated, they'll pick up on that and may become more difficult to manage. Keep your cool, even when they're testing your patience. A calm demeanor reinforces your role as the leader.

Yelling or getting frustrated only escalates the situation.

For your dog, the one who doesn't easily flinch or fold wins and takes the leadership hat.

But what do you do when the constant leash pulling becomes too much for you?

I want you to remember this: give calm, consistent consequences.

A consequence given with calmness can teach your dog what they need to do more than shouting or using force can.

When you're angry, your dog will more likely become stressed, making it hard for them to really understand you.

Before you continue reading, I want you to know I completely understand your frustrations.

I've had conversations with dog owners where I asked them "What happens during the walk?"

A lot of them said "Well, the leash pulling becomes too much, we just let them lead the way. We figured it was better than abandoning the walk altogether."

Definitely a big misconception!

If you are a dog owner who thinks giving in to your dog will make training easier along the way, I'm here to tell you it won't.

When you let the dog control the walk, you're also giving them control over everything.

Dog barks and snaps at everyone and everything? It's because they're in control.

Dog doesn't respond when you call? Why should they listen to you if they're in control?

Dog runs far from you even if you command them to stop? Again, you're not in charge.

If you give dogs control, everything will be on THEIR terms, not yours.

If there's no consequence for bad behavior, there's no reason for your dog to stop.

Even though our dogs can be prone to showing headstrong tendencies, they are quick learners and learn through consequences.

Giving them consequences helps them understand what they should and should not do. It's the best way to build your dog's best walking habits.

You're the leader, not your dog.

Allowing them to decide the pace, direction, or when the walk ends undermines your role and encourages leash pulling.

Show them you're the Alpha by letting them know "Hey, you can chill. I make the big decisions here." And stick with it.

The entire concept of dog leadership includes a lot of concepts, and it's easy to fall into the cracks when you're working to become a true leader in your dog's eyes.

I created The Dog Calming Code for dog owners who really want to set the leadership right. The Dog Calming Code discusses the Five Golden Rules of dog leadership; five essential concepts that — when done right — will cement your place as the Alpha your dogs WILL trust.

Because when you're the Alpha, you won't only be able to stop leash pulling; you can always enjoy a peaceful, calm, successful walk.

~ Doggy Dan 😄

Seeing dog owners letting their dogs run wild when the car door opens is quite a familiar scene. It’s adorable at face value… but it’s a tricky if you want to have calm walks with dogs.

“Doggy Dan, do you mean I also have to keep an eye on how my dogs exit the car so I can have peace while I walk outdoors with them?”

Yes, you’re right.

All your problems with leash pulling, aggression, overexcitement, and yes, even protectiveness will be reduced by simply ensuring you take control WAY BEFORE your dog steps out of the car.

1. Control Starts with the Car Exit: The way dogs exit the car sets the tone for the walk. Controlling this aspect ensures a more manageable and enjoyable outdoor experience.

1. A Quick Recap of Doggy Dan Rule #5: How You Can Control the Walk

In my previous blog about the Doggy Dan Golden Rule #5, I discussed how you can truly gain control of the walk.

In the same blog, I mentioned three pillars for a successful walking experience:

#1: You control the walk and the energy.

#2: You set the rules on what is acceptable and what is not.

#3: Your dog has to know that it’s you who calls the shots.

Using this Golden Rule as a guide, letting your overexcited dog run out of the car like a sprinter immediately strikes out your chances of becoming in control of the walk.

Read on to learn more about why the way dogs exit cars can make or break your outdoor walks.

If your dog sprints out the moment you open your door, they will be hard to control throughout your time outdoors.

You see, the one who controls the walk matters to dogs.

If you control the walk, your dog will listen. If you let them run the show, they'll do things on their terms.

Now, most dog owners don't make anything big out of the way your dog eject themselves out of cars.

But I'm here to tell you that how they leave the car matters in the grand scheme of your dog's time outside.

Let me give you an analogy…

When I was younger, my parents brought us to exciting trips. My siblings and I would run out of the car, so excited to just be out there. That often gave my parents a hard time because calling us back was impossible once we were out.

They needed our help, but we shut them off.

My parents learned some hard lessons from those experiences.

The next time we went on a trip, they made sure to talk to us before we headed out.

"You help out first before you play," mom and dad would say.

It was easier for us to follow their orders since they set the instructions. And if they did ask us to do something, we immediately listened.

We knew what we had to do. We knew what was expected of us.

It's pretty much the same with our dogs! If you've ever gone outdoors with your dog, you’ve probably experienced dealing with a hyperactive dog that just doesn't listen no matter how many times you call!

They pull the leash no matter how hard you pull back.

They also get snappy with almost every dog they meet, making socialization really hard.

So, how do you execute this simple hack for a calmer, more relaxed time with your dog outdoors?

Really, really, really be the CEO of the walk, and the boss of every step!

Here are some ways you can follow below:

The operative word here is calm. It's like dog training's prime rule: when you're calm, your dogs are calm, too.

You can encourage your dogs to also be in a calm mood by not being agitated, anxious, or restless yourself. Try not to be jittery or preoccupied before opening the car door.

Don't raise your voice or get angry when you command them to be still.

I recommend doing some breathing exercises and calming yourself before you open the car door; this helps dogs start off with a calm energy, too!

Be firm with your commands. Say "stay" if you want them to stay and "sit" if you want them to be still. Make sure your dogs understand these commands way before you use them on your walk.

You can use a leash if your dogs need extra help calming down. I even use a leash to my dogs if they're too excited to calm down.

Just attach a leash onto your dog to help them ready for their walk… the calm way.

This is the most important part.

The outdoors has many distractions: leaves, flying birds, kids playing in the park, and other dogs.

Your dog — especially when they're already too distracted — will jump so fast you won't have time to react… or even chase them!

They sprinted even without your signal. You've already lost control. They've already shut you out.

This is why the go signal for your dogs to run free SHOULD COME FROM YOU. Your dogs must understand that everything — walks included — happens on your own terms.

(Why does doing things on your own terms matter in dog training? I talk about it here.)

You know that moment when your dog seems to tune into your every word? That's what happens when they learn to exit calmly.

When you don't allow them to run away from you without your command, they understand the language of patience and respect.

When you're in control, your dog doesn't just hear you; they listen. They become more attentive and more tuned into your cues.

Recall training will work. Leash training will work. Even helping your dog relax will work!

All because you don't let your dog overstep you as their leader.

We've all seen it—the zoomies, the endless circles around the lawn.

However, when dogs learn the art of calm exiting, their energy levels balance out.

They aren't bubbling pots of hyperactivity waiting to spill over.

Instead, they maintain a steady, manageable energy level. Their energy stays in the level 2 or 3.

Now, They're still the playful, spirited companions we adore, just without the chaotic overdrive.

When dogs understand how to exit calmly, they also understand the invisible lines we draw in our lives.

These boundaries could be anything from not rushing out the door to waiting patiently for their food.

They learn that not everything is a free-for-all.

This recognition is crucial. It's not about limiting their freedom; it's about teaching them respect and safety, ensuring they know where they can and cannot go, what is theirs to explore, and what is off-limits.

A dog that understands calm exiting also understands they're not the one calling the shots. This understanding significantly reduces tendencies like aggression, overprotectiveness, or leash pulling.

They realize that you're the leader, and with this realization, comes a sense of security and peace for them.

They don't feel the need to be overly protective or assertive because they trust in your guidance. It's a beautiful shift from chaos to harmony, from uncertainty to trust.

The great thing about dogs is they're fast learners.

Once habits are formed, our dogs will stick to them.

Sure, you're going to experience frustrating, really challenging walks at first. But stick with the essentials — including teaching dogs to exit cars calmly — and your dog will catch on quickly!

A dog who knows how to be calm during a walk is a dog who understands these:

a. They're not in charge.

b. Their owner is in charge.

c. They are expected to behave a certain way during their outdoor walks.

And teaching these things to your dog goes beyond simple commands.

In my online dog training program, The Dog Calming Code™️, I talk about how you can train dogs to be calm, chill, and happy while enjoying the walk outdoors.

Because when you're bonding and spending time with your dog outdoors, there's nothing better than a walk that’s free from the stress that commonly comes with dog walks!

Check out the Dog Calming Code here.

You got this!

~ Doggy Dan 😄

If I asked you to write down at least three dog-walking problems, I am sure I’d find leash pulling and misbehaving somewhere on that list.

Why? Because almost 80% of those who come to me for help on walking their dog have those issues.

And here’s the truth: the solution is fairly simple.

The problem starts when dog owners dismiss their dog's little quirks and defiance during walks as nothing serious… until they are.

Fortunately, you can flip the switch by doing one simple thing: really making your dog see you’re in charge.

How? Read on to learn more.

• Leash pulling, barking, and overexcitement during dog walks often stem from a common root: your dog believes it's in charge.

1. Stop Dog-walking Problems By Taking Control of the Walk

The most common cause of dog-walking issues like leash pulling, barking, and getting excited by just about anything is this: your dog thinks they're in control.

It's like the case of "whoever gets in the driver's seat first decides where the trip goes."

When the dog sees they have taken over the "driver duties" during the walk, expect them to drive… even if it requires pulling the leash, running without your permission, and chasing everything!

Yes, they would do all these things despite your non-stop commands of "No, no, no, no!"

So it's absolutely critical that control is in your court… and your dog has to know it!

Here are some ways you can do that.

If you start exhibiting control after leaving the house, you already lost it.

Control is solidified when you're the one to decide when to take the walk.

"Doggy Dan, what do you mean by this?"

I want you to think of this: who decides to go for a walk?

If your dog approached you with a leash in their mouth, prodding you to take them outside, AND YOU AGREED, you have lost control.

Let's say your dog goes to you to signal they want to go out; here's what you can do…

Ignore them for five minutes, then give the cue that it's time for a walk.

You're doing this not to make your dog feel ignored but to establish your role as the ultimate decision-maker in walk-related matters.

Dogs understand control. In fact, dogs are so keen in having it because it's programmed in them that control is necessary for survival.

So you will see a lot of attempts to take charge of the walk or get in front of you so they can control the walk.

(Bonus note: dogs also try to take control of the walk because they are sometimes very protective and feel responsible for protecting you.)

The great thing about dogs is they're quick to get the message. Once you do something that tells them "Hey, I got it. I'm in charge," they will adapt.

If your dog makes a run for the door to ensure they go first, do this gentle move: calmly block their way with your legs, open the door, and go first.

If your dog persists, insisting on being the one in charge, stop the steps. Refrain from continuing the walk until they get the message that you decide what happens with your time outdoors.

Doing this simple step is like giving your dog an outdoor timeout. Once your dog gets that you stopped because of their rowdy behavior, they will listen to you.

Stop for a few minutes until your dog calms down and understands the message.

If rowdiness persists, you should be quick on stopping and heading back home.

I know this can feel heartbreaking for you and your dog, but it's one of the most powerful ways of telling your dog, "Hey, what you did is not going to make this walk continue. Please remember that."

Deciding to end the walk right there and then will establish to your dog that, indeed, you have the final word.

You know how some dogs get all barky and uppity around other dogs? That's them being overprotective. But guess what?

When you take charge of the walk, your dog starts to chill out. They look to you for cues, and pretty soon, they're not so quick to bark or get feisty with other dogs. It's like they're thinking, "My human's got this, no need for me to go all superhero."

Ever feel like you're in a tug-of-war match with your dog on walks? You're not alone. A lot of us deal with dogs pulling on the leash.

But here's a cool thing – when you're clearly in charge, your dog starts to get it. They follow your lead instead of dragging you around. It turns the walk into something you both can actually enjoy.

Ever notice your dog being super tense and on guard when you're out walking? They're in what I like to call 'protector mode'.

But when you step up as the leader, it's a game changer. Your dog gets the memo that you're handling the big stuff, so they can kick back and enjoy the walk. They get to sniff around, see the sights, and just be a happy dog.

Leading the walk also means smoother run-ins with other dogs and their humans. When your dog is behaving and not causing drama, it's way easier to have friendly encounters. No awkward apologies or tense moments.

Just good, sociable walks.

Consistency is key. When you lead the walk the same way every time, your dog learns to trust your decisions.

They feel safer and more secure with you in charge, and that just makes your bond stronger. Walks turn into quality time you both look forward to.

Here's a bonus: dogs that get the hang of your leadership on walks often behave better in other areas too.

We're talking calmer at home, nicer to your guests, and listening better in general. It's like they understand you're the leader all the time, not just on walks.

Being in charge during the walks is just one of the many facets of being a true blue pack leader dogs respect and listen to.

You see, being in control is business #1 for the dogs. And if you don't get this (or how to do this!) you will find yourself dealing with the same issues not just on walking but with almost all the challenges that come with dog ownership.

The Dog Calming Code™️ can help you understand what it means to really be a pack leader, and how to take control from your dog who thinks they are in charge. Because when you're a pack leader who knows, your dog will just follow.

You can learn about the Dog Calming Code here.

~ Doggy Dan 😄

Dogs don’t always say what they’re feeling, so it’s understandable why we want to know the reason why dogs yelp.

Each sound our dog makes is crucial; it can signify hunger, distress, and pain.

So it’s no surprise our dogs’ sudden yelping sounds can make us spring into protective, worrying mode.

Yes, a yelping dog can be a dog in pain. But a dog letting out a high-pitched, petrifying sound isn’t always a pained dog… and it’s an essential truth owners should understand.

• Dogs yelp for various reasons, not always due to pain. It's important to discern the context of their yelping, which can indicate hunger, distress, or leadership struggles.

1. The Other Reason Why Dogs Yelp: For Dogs, It’s All About Leadership

Here’s a truth I truly embrace: dogs are all about the hierarchy. Knowing who leads and who follows is business #1.

When dogs meet, they first sort out leadership because dogs are BIG on leadership.

(Thus, the reason for the creation of my popular course, The Dog Calming Code™️ , which you can learn more about below.)

If you can observe two dogs that just met at the park, there’s a high chance you’ll catch them growling and seemingly testing the other.

Eventually, they will engage in a brawl, a classic way of challenging one another.

After a few minutes of commotion, everything gets back to normal. The two dogs fighting earlier will start to interact without any aggression.

When two dogs stop fighting or challenging each other, they have already settled who the leader is and who the follower is.

Where does yelping come in?

Somewhere during the brawl, one of the dogs might let out a sharp cry. (Think: loud, human shriek). It’s a sound that can make any dog owner spring to their feet.

But here’s what I want dog owners to know: a yelp isn’t always an indication of pain.

Of course, keep an eye on the dog fight and intervene when physical harm is involved.

However, I encourage you to also assess the situation BEFORE immediately getting between two dogs.

Why?

Because yelping can also mean two things:

a.) It’s a sound of conceding.

b.) it’s a shock factor to tell other dogs, “Stop chasing me. You win.”

Dogs understand the value of leadership more than they show.

Because of this reason, a dog will not back down until they’ve established themselves as the leader.

However, the screaming will start when a dog sees they’re at a disadvantage.

The scream that they let out isn’t always a scream of pain.

When another dog pins them down, their scream can mean, “Okay, enough. You win. You’re the leader!”

It’s like tapping out in a wrestling match, a sure way to communicate surrender.

To explain this part, I’m sharing the story of my two kids, Stanley and Sage.

Like what children normally do, Stan and Sage would have really intense playtime that could end up in shrieks and cries.

There was this one time where Sage, out of nowhere, let out a blood-curdling shriek.

Of course, I was very worried. I dropped what I was doing and charged inside the house.

“Sage, what did he do to you?” I asked my daughter.

She simply said “Oh, nothing. I just didn’t want him to catch me.”

And it made sense to me!

Screaming so loud can make another person think “Yep, that’s it. They’re over this. They’re done. They won’t be fighting anymore.”

It’s the same with dogs!

A dog uses loud sounds to ward the other dogs off or to stop fights.

An intense sound from your dog is not always an indication of pain, but a way to communicate defense against their strong opponent.

Your dog let out a scream of pain… checking in on them and stopping the fight is the most sensible thing to do.

I totally recommend intervening in a dog fight when signs of harm are evident (for example: blood and scratches).

HOWEVER, YOU DON’T ALWAYS NEED TO GET IN THE WAY OF A DOG FIGHT.

“But why, Doggy Dan?”

It’s because dogs ALWAYS want to sort out who leads the pack and who follows.

When we intervene, we could also get in the way of dogs sorting the leadership issue out.

In a more dominant dog’s mind, the other dog is still not conceding. The power struggle will still continue. There will be more chasing, fighting, screaming.

If you’re dealing with more frequent dog rumbles, I recommend being quick in observing the severity of the dog fight.

We don’t always need to get involved in the middle of the fight, BUT we still have to keep an eye on when the rumble becomes serious.

When there are increased levels of aggression (forceful biting, blood, deep scratches), quickly stop the fight and place dogs on timeout if necessary to help them regulate their emotions.

Knowing the other reason for a dog’s yelp can help you not panic whenever you hear them make that sound.

But here’s the thing: if we can do away with that sound, it’s so much better, right?

If dogs stop fighting for dominance, you can rest your mind from dealing with constant fights!

That’s where The Dog Calming Code comes in.

In your household, one leader should be in your dogs’ eyes: YOU.

When they see you wearing the hat of leadership, any aggression towards other dogs to establish dominance will be minimized.

Power struggles between dogs will be lesser because every dog in the house know it’s YOU who is in charge of the pack.

I know that because I have seen tens of thousands of dog owners get over the problems involving dog fights and dogs hurting each other.

All because the owners truly showed they are capable, strong, confident leaders their dogs can trust.

Your dogs will no longer have to vie for leadership; with The Dog Calming Code, you already got it covered.

If you want to learn more about The Dog Calming Code, click here.

~ Doggy Dan 😄

What do you do when your dog's energy levels spike from a 3 to an 8? My answer as a top dog trainer: the Calm Freeze.

I know it's daunting seeing your dog transform from well-behaved and calm to rowdy and agitated in the blink of an eye.

But here's an important fact I've learned from years of working with dogs and their owners: you, as a dog owner, possess the remarkable ability to transform your dog's behavior from hyperactive and agitated to calm and relaxed.

And the Calm Freeze has been proven to bring back your dog's calm and relaxed demeanor WITHOUT having to use any product or tool.

I trust it so much I even use it on my dogs.

In today's blog, I will talk about the Calm Freeze and how this technique can calm your dogs without tools, words, products, or even force.

• The technique is effective in various situations, including overexcitement, aggression, dog fights, disobedience, and anxiety.

1. What is a Calm Freeze?

The Calm Freeze is a strategic approach to soothe a hyperactive, stressed, anxious, or restless dog.

It's more than just a technique; it's an understanding of your dog's emotional state and a way to communicate peace and stability.

This method isn't about physical restraint but about emotional resonance.

By using the Calm Freeze, you're not just controlling your dog's actions but also influencing their emotional state, bringing them from a place of hyper to stillness.

This initial step sets the tone for the entire process — it's crucial that your approach is cool and composed.

Don't start the Calm Freeze by shouting or forcing your dog to come to you; this can potentially create more resistance.

The emphasis here is on gentleness. Your dog will pick up on your calm energy, which, in turn, helps them to relax.

Use a finger or two to hold the collar securely.

Like I mentioned above, your dog will understand your energy more than your words. When you are calm, your dog will replicate that.

Your steady presence can be a powerful calming force even if your dog shows signs of agitation, fear, or restlessness.

Your calming presence also helps your dog regulate their energy and emotions.

If your dog reacts negatively, such as attempting to bite, guide them calmly into a timeout. This pause allows both you and your dog to settle any heightened emotions.

Once you start to sense their energy levels going down to a 2 or a 3, slowly release your hold.

This step is important as it signifies the end of the calming process and a return to normalcy.

Dogs are acutely sensitive to energy. When you, their owner, embody calmness, you're speaking their language. You're giving them cues they understand better than any verbal signal.

The ultimate goal of the Calm Freeze is to help dogs bring down their spiked energy levels.

Imagine this: asking your dog to calm down through shouting, or threatening them, or getting angry.

It doesn't make sense. In your dog's eyes, your words and actions don't click. Following your instructions becomes so much harder.

The Calm Freeze believes in this: a gentle approach fosters a peaceful response.

Dogs often mirror the energy and behavior of their owners, so the Calm Freeze is the remedy that makes sense.

This technique is effective because it doesn't rely on physical force, which can escalate anxiety and aggression.

Also, remember that a pack leader always chooses a gentle and calm approach. Once your dog sees even their antics, anxiety, and aggression don't affect you, their respect for you will increase.

With increased respect comes an increased ability to follow your directions. When you gently hold their collar, they get what you mean: "You can calm down now."

The calm freeze is excellent for quickly diffusing tense situations immediately.

It's like reassuring your dog, restoring peace more rapidly than verbal commands or physical interventions.

It's particularly effective when dogs become excessively excited and lose focus.

Does playtime make your dog hyperactive even after playtime has ended? Spend at least 5 minutes to do the Calm Freeze with your hyperactive dog.

If you're starting to sense your dog's aggression rising to the surface (and it's crucial you know how to see the signs ASAP), use The Calm Freeze.

The gentleness of the calm freeze can pacify your dog's overwhelming emotions.

Watch out for potential aggression towards you. If aggression persists, you can put your dog in timeout.

It can help break up dog fights by calming one of the dogs involved.

The Calm Freeze is handy when dogs are rowdy and do not respond to verbal commands. This technique is also effective in making dogs turn their focus on you.

It's a gentle way to comfort anxious dogs, especially in unfamiliar or stressful environments like when they’re dealing with strangers and perceived threats.

Holding your dog still is like telling them, "It's okay, I'm here. I'm the one in charge, so I can confidently handle what you're worried about."

Your dog's restlessness, aggression, protectiveness, overexcitement, anxiety… basically, any strong, heavy emotion can be traced back to them feeling they're in charge.

But here's the truth you want your dogs to know: you are the leader.

You are in charge.

You handle anything that worries them.

You can handle the danger that causes their protectiveness.

And how can The Calm Freeze help dogs see this?

The Calm Freeze shows this by manifesting to your dogs that you:

a. Are calm and confident. What worries them doesn't worry you.

b. Handle everything. Your calm energy will show them this.

When your dog shows a change in energy, what can happen next is unpredictable.

Will they bite? Will they exhibit aggression? Will they hurt other dogs? Will they run away?

It's crucial to have a solution the moment you see the first signs of spiked energy.

This is why The Calm Freeze is a GREAT dog training tool to master. It's free, it's easy to do, and you can use it whenever you need it.

Try using it and see the difference!

~ Doggy Dan 😄

The reason why dogs need timeout is because they don't naturally understand human language.

If you want to give consequences or correction for a specific dog behavior, you must speak a language your dog totally understands.

And that’s where timeouts come in.

The thing about timeout for dogs is that it's so simple. And because it's so simple, it's also so easy to overcomplicate and done wrong.

Some dog owners don't tap into the power of using timeouts to correct behavior. Some also fail to apply it effectively, leaving dogs to miss the significance of their actions' consequences.

As a top dog trainer who swears by timeouts, I'm here to tell you that if you're training your dog, timeout is something you should NEVER overlook or toss aside.

Read on to know more.

• Unlike shouting or using force, timeouts provide a clear, non-violent message to dogs that their behavior is unacceptable. It offers a direct and consistent response, teaching dogs that their actions have consequences.

1. Dogs Need Timeout: The Number One Mistake Dog Owners Do When Correcting Negative Behavior

Let me share a common scenario I'm sure you're familiar with.

Your dog shows negative behaviors — perhaps barking non-stop or chewing on cables, or jumping on guests — which finally gets to your nerves.

If you don't do timeouts, you’d more than likely reprimand your dog in a booming voice, "STOP IT!" and then never follow through with a correction or a form of discipline that teaches the dog not to repeat the behavior.

The dog knows you are angry, but do they know why?

Addressing dog behavior requires a thoughtful approach, and it goes beyond mere reactionary measures.

Shouting might momentarily startle the dog, but it fails to instill a lasting lesson that prompts your dog to change negative behavior.

The dog, bewildered and possibly frightened, may temporarily stop the behavior, yet the underlying issue remains unaddressed.

In such circumstances, your dog is likely to repeat the undesirable action, as the shouting has not effectively communicated correction or what is expected of them.

This is where the concept of timeout plays a pivotal role in behavioral correction.

In dog communication, a timeout is an essential tool. It's not just the act of separation; it's a clear, non-violent message that the dog's behavior was unacceptable.

Unlike shouting, which can be both unclear and stressful, a timeout is a direct and consistent response. It teaches the dog that their actions have direct consequences.

And this is when change happens.

(Check out this blog I wrote about how to make sure you do your timeouts effectively.)

Dogs love their freedom! Dogs love you! And when you're nearby, they're all about being near you.

This is why during a timeout — when dogs are temporarily separated from you and denied their chance of running around — correcting negative dog behavior becomes impactful.

This removal is not about isolation but about providing a moment of pause, a break in the pattern that leads to undesirable behavior.

In this quiet space, your dog has an opportunity to calm down and reset.

They will also begin to figure out why they were put in timeout. Dogs are so fast in associating actions to consequences, they'll get the reason why they are in timeout quickly.

Timeout does not use force — this is why it's effective. When you use force, fear, or intimidation, the dog will only feel the energy but never see the lesson.

Without timeout, you just inflict fear to your dog but never leave a lasting lesson.

Dogs, much like humans, learn from consequences. When a dog misbehaves, it's crucial to establish a consequence that is firm yet fair. This teaches them that their actions have repercussions.

A timeout allows you to tell your dog "That behavior is not acceptable." Timeout POWERFULLY sends that message.

Yelling at a misbehaving dog often proves ineffective. Dogs ignore shouting as it doesn't translate into a tangible outcome for their negative behavior.

Additionally, when dogs see you always angry, rattled and frustrated, they won't be able to associate you with calm, confident, capable leadership.

Which — proven time and time again — does not have much effect.

The two-fold approach of giving attention when deserved and using timeouts to correct bad behavior can help your dog understand what is expected of them… without you having to use extreme remedies.

The key to an effective timeout depends on these two things:

Firstly, gentle consistency. Secondly, taking control of the timeout.

I call it "calm" correction because there's no need for force or intimidation. Consistent because your dog has to understand that timeout will immediately happen once they exhibit negative behavior. There's no buts or compromise.

Consistency and firmness are vital, but they must be tempered with kindness.

Avoid giving in to your dog's whims during a timeout.

As much as possible, do not entertain them if they are still whining on the other side of the door. Only take them outside the room when they've completely relaxed and behaved.

Once you're done with the timeout, dogs usually come to you for attention. I know it's tempting, but wait to give in.

It's your dog's way of letting you know they have a special request: "Hey, I'm out. Notice me!"

The duration can vary – from a minute to ten minutes, depending on the situation and the dog's response.

I absolutely recommend the short line! It makes controlling dogs 10 times easier! If you have a dog that is constantly running around when you're training them, the short line can really help.

I talk more about the Shore Line in this blog.

Don't let them out if they're still barking. Wait until they have calmed down before ending the timeout.

No. Avoid any interaction, including pats and cuddles, during this period.

Once you let them out, don't immediately give cuddles and treats. It will confuse your dog as to who really is in charge (which can be equal to them choosing not to listen to you).

Consistency is key. If they repeat the misbehavior, apply another timeout. This can be repeated as necessary and is effective for many minor misdemeanors.

It's not about the location, but how you conduct the timeout. The key is to create a clear separation. Just make sure the timeout area is NOT in the room you’r

You could use a toilet or bathroom, a separate room, garage, or somewhere where they are isolated and can't see you. There needs to be a door separating you, not a window or gate where they can still interact with you.

Ensure the timeout area has enough water (especially if you’re putting your dog on a longer timeout), is not too cold or hot, and is free from any dangerous items like pesticides.

Immediate timeouts are effective for aggressive behaviors. It helps the dog associate negative behavior like nipping with the consequence of isolation.

I don't think I'll stop talking about timeouts for dogs anytime soon.

You see, it's because nothing beats taking a loving and consistent approach in resolving issues. You can communicate to your dog what is and isn't acceptable in a way that they understand.

And the best thing: no shouting, hurting, and intimidating in the mix!

Remember: when you give clear, calm, consistent consequences with love, your dog will understand that a timeout for a dog IS necessary.

Don't be afraid to give timeouts a try — they may just become your new powerful tool in dog training!

~ Doggy Dan 😄

The reason for using a short line for dogs boils down to this: control.

It sounds extreme, but in dog psychology, the one in control is the one in charge.

And when your dog runs under tables and around the garden uncontrollably, and you're having a hard time catching them, you're not in control!

The short line for dogs helps you regain control without raising your voice, resorting to harsh strategies, and losing your composure (news flash: in your dog's eyes, a rattled dog owner is NOT a worthy pack leader).

Let's talk more about why you should ABSOLUTELY include the short line in your arsenal of helpful dog training tools.

• The short line helps establish control, signaling to the dog that the owner is in charge and can guide behavior effectively.

1. Using the Short Line for Dogs: What Is It?

The short line is a fairly simple tool: a basic lead attached to a dog's harness. This lead's length ranges between 1-2 meters. No fancy instructions are involved; all you need to do is to attach it to your dog's harness safely.

As simple as it is, the short line can transform training.

Dogs are brilliant, and they understand the concept of control.

Do you notice how they run away whenever you chase them? The reason is this: dogs know that as long as you miss them, they win. They're in charge. You have lost control and, therefore, also lose your authority.

When the dogs perceive that they can do whatever they want without you being able to correct it, they assume leadership. They see themselves as the pack leader.

And the pack leader is firm in their ways. When dogs think they're the leader, they are much harder to train.

This is the reason why I love the short line.

When you use a short line, you tell your dog, "No, you're not in charge. I am. I can control you when I need to."

Slowly, as your dog sees that you can simply use the line to catch them, they will realize that they are not the leader.

It's like playing a game of tag!

When it's apparent that someone can't catch us no matter what they do, we feel like we rule the game.

It's a different story when the opponent is capable in every way! We become more aware that we're not the top players, and we have to be mindful of what other people will do.

There's so much that goes into training a dog THE RIGHT WAY. Using a tool like the short line can improve training and address issues such as:

• protectiveness

One single short line = tons of perks.

Here are three reasons why using the short line can change your dog… and your overall training experience!

It's hard to train a dog that is always running away from you.

With the short line, training sessions become less of a power struggle and more of a cooperative effort between you and your dog.

Using a short leash helps you handle your dog better in different situations without needing to shout. It creates a peaceful atmosphere for both you and your dog.

When you use the short line properly, you are not leading with aggression but guiding with gentle firmness.

When your dog knows you have the end of the short line, they pay closer attention, learning commands more quickly. In their eyes, you have taken the leadership from them.

The short line reduces distractions for your dog, making it easier for them to focus on your instructions and smooths out the training process for both of you.

Using a short line pulls the reins of control back into your hands—quite literally.

In the wild dance of chasing your dog around the yard, the short line is your dance partner that never steps on your toes.

It's a clear and gentle reminder to your dog that while freedom is good, it comes with limits.

With a short line, you can quickly and efficiently correct behaviors without breaking stride, ensuring that your dog understands who is leading the training.

Boundaries are essential in any relationship, and it's no different with your dog.

A short line is a physical representation of these limits.

It helps your dog learn where their space ends and where yours begins.

When they are like a running fireball around the house, correcting them won't come with a chase and a shout anymore. You can simply pick up the short line and put them to timeout.

Dogs are fast learners! They WILL GET why you guided them into timeout.

Dogs are pack animals and naturally look for a leader—someone who is confident and capable.

By effectively using a short line, you are demonstrating these qualities. Your calm assertiveness tells your dog that you are in charge, not out of intimidation but out of competence.

This approach builds trust and respect, the cornerstones of any strong pack leader that dogs FIERCELY trust.

One of the fundamental aspects of training with a short line is setting clear expectations.

When your dog understands what behaviors are rewarded and which are corrected, they make better choices.

The short line is a constant, gentle guide that helps communicate these lessons.

It's not just about preventing unwanted behaviors; it's about encouraging your dog to make the right decisions on their own, promoting a sense of achievement and confidence in their daily life.

The short line not only saves you from the stress and exhaustion of running after your dogs all the time; it also prevents you from catching the dog via the collar (which is a feat on its own!).

With the short line, you can just grab the leash OR stand on the end of the leash as soon as you sense your dog gearing to bolt out.

Look for a leash that's between 1 and 2 meters long, ensuring it's tough enough to withstand your dog's movements and strength.

Securely connect the lead to your dog's harness, ensuring it's properly fastened to prevent any unexpected escapes.

Give your dog some freedom to wander while the short line follows along, allowing them to explore without feeling too restricted.

Make sure to stay vigilant and keep a close watch on your dog, especially when they're connected to the short line, ensuring they stay out of harm's way.

NEVER LEAVE THE SHORT LINE ATTACHED WITHOUT ANY SUPERVISION.

Use the short line for short intervals, giving your dog a chance to learn proper behavior. Gradually increase the time as they begin to exhibit improved conduct.

The short line is effective. It has worked for tens of thousands of dogs.

But the short line is just a tool. You have to get the strategies that will make dogs know that short line = your control, first and foremost. Or else… the short line will be less effective, especially if your dog struggles to see you as the leader.

Don’t worry, I have the solution for that!

My online dog training program, The Dog Calming Code™️, helps dog owners like you learn how to be the calm, confident AND capable leader that dogs listen to!

So when you do have to use the short line, your dog already knows YOU MEAN BUSINESS and you want them to listen.

You can click this link here to learn more about the Dog Calming Code.

~ Doggy Dan 😄

A whistle for dog recall training is a very important tool that some dog owners overlook.

Of course, I recommend you go for solutions that work best for you and your dog.

If you've put in all possible effort to train your dog to come when called, and still haven't had any success, the dog recall training whistle is a tool that you absolutely must not underestimate.

In this blog, we're going to talk about using a whistle, and why it's a need especially if you want to have dog training success.

Let's dive in.

• Incorporating a whistle into dog training can enhance recall training, allowing for clear communication and prompt responses without straining your voice.

1. Why I Recommend the Whistle for Dog Recall Training

I live in the countryside where roads come with rushing cars. I love letting my dogs explore freely, but I also make sure they're still safe.

My dogs are trained, and they come when I call. But, I still carry a whistle with me every time we go out because my dogs are also adventurous; I need to make sure they don't stray off to dangerous places.

You can say that I'm a top dog trainer that doesn't rely on my voice alone for dog recall training.

Here are several reasons why…

In my decade of training dogs, I've come to realize the sheer power of simplicity.

The whistle is a prime example of that.

Unlike the complex modulations of the human voice, a whistle emits a clear, piercing tone that a dog's ear can pick up and distinguish from the distraction of everyday sounds.

This crisp sound is unique, making it easier for dogs to associate it with a specific command: recall.

Your shout should be reserved for the most important communications: when you need to connect with your dog, or when you give the most crucial instructions.

Using your voice all the time, especially over distances or in distracting environments, won't be as effective over time.

If you're constantly shouting your dog's name during recall training, your dog will find it hard to understand that your voice = urgent.

The whistle? It's calm, it's controlled, and it's constant. Because they know the sound of the whistle means "Come back here!" your dogs will come running back to you, no shouting involved.

Dog recall training whistles are not just for the training field— they are vital tools for ensuring your dog's safety in the great outdoors.

A dog's hearing is finely tuned to pick up high-pitched sounds, which is why a whistle's sound can travel further than the human voice, standing out amongst nature's buzz or the clamor of the city.

Consistency is key in any form of training.

Unlike our voices, which can sound different when we are tired, frustrated, or excited, a whistle's tone doesn't change.

This consistency means your dog can get familiar with it quickly, recognizing it as a signal for a specific action: to return to you.

If you're going for a whistle for dog recall, what should you choose? I recommend checking out these factors, so you'll get the whistle that's best for you.

When you're in the market for a whistle, think of it as an investment in your dog's safety.

You'll want one that withstands the elements, accidental drops, and even the occasional chew if it falls into curious jaws.

Durability ensures the sound remains consistent, which is what matters most for effective recall training.

Your whistle should be as ready for adventure as your dog is.

Look for something lightweight with an option to attach to your keychain, belt loop, or around your neck.

It shouldn't be a hassle to carry; instead, it should be an extension of your outdoor gear as you go outdoors for exercise.

Sound quality isn't about music to your ears; it's about a clear, distinct signal to your dog.

A whistle with poor sound quality can fluctuate in tone, which can confuse your dog and undermine your training efforts.

The perfect whistle for dog training doesn't have to be edgy or really expensive; it just needs to work really well for you and your dog.

I just want to put this here: I truly support whatever choice you make when it comes to the whistle you choose for dog recall training.

However, if you are looking for a whistle I personally trust, I recommend the Doggy Dan whistle for effective recall training with your dog.

It's a straightforward, trainer-endorsed tool that can help improve your training sessions. In my years of testing various whistles, this one stands out in terms of sound quality and durability.

You can check out the whistle here (and even score a free whistle with the Whistle Training Masterclass course).

Before the whistle means anything to your dog, it must become synonymous with something they desire.

Start by associating the whistle with positive experiences.

Blow it gently before meal times or right before a play session. The goal is to get your dog to connect the sound with moments that mean, "Hey, something good is waiting for me!"

Now that your dog perks up at the sound of the whistle, it's time to work on the recall. Start in a controlled environment without distractions.

Give the whistle a blow, and if your dog comes, reward them immediately with a high-value treat, play, or affection.

Repeat this, gradually increasing the distance.

The real test of recall comes when there are competing interest.

Once your dog is responding reliably in a quiet environment, introduce more challenging scenarios.

The next step would be taking them to a park where other dogs and people are, and continue your training there. Always reward them for coming back to you.

I cannot stress enough how crucial consistency is. Use the same whistle-blow every time.

Your dog should know that that one sound—and one sound only—means it's time to return to you.

Leadership in dog training isn't about being loud or aggressive. It's about being the source of guidance and safety for your dog.

In my previous blogs, I highly emphasize the power of leadership and control. When you're a leader in your dog's eyes, it solves the most pressing dog training issues, including the recall.

I talk more about becoming the leader in your dog's eyes in my online training program, The Dog Calming Code™️.

You can check my other blogs related to the topic of how to become a pack leader here.

Training isn't linear, and there will be setbacks. Your dog may ignore the whistle one day, or they may be too distracted by a squirrel. Stay calm.

If you get frustrated, your dog will pick up on that energy and may become anxious or resistant. Reset, and try again.

Always remember that the whistle is a tool for safety.

It's not just for when you want to leave the park; it's for those moments when immediate recall can prevent an accident or danger.

When you blow that whistle, you're not just calling your dog; you're potentially saving their life.

I always tell dog owners that if their recall training does not work, they can try again using a whistle.

But if issues still persist after using one of the most effective tools in dog training, I recommend getting down to the bottom of the issue: leadership.

If your dog does not see you as the pack leader who is in control of everything (including them!), they will be thinking, "Why should I respond to their calls? I'm the one in charge here!"

I've seen the recall finally work for dog owners after months of training. The secret? Really becoming the leader their dogs look up to, listen to, and respond to.

With the right leadership and a great whistle on your side, you can transform your dog training journey.

You can check out the Dog Calming Code here.

~ Doggy Dan 😄