Edacious

Welcome to Giving Back November! All month long I'm profiling food nonprofits in our area. Meet John Hernandez, president of UVA's Hoos for Heifers, whose mission is twofold: get students out to the farm to see how our food is grown, and collect funds so folks in need can enjoy local grass-fed beef.

John, a history major, comes from a 4th-generation family of cattle farmers in Bristol, Virginia which makes him uniquely qualified for this endeavor. As he states, "I'm a Carhartt kid in a North Face world." I met John's parents, Johnna and Saul Hernandez of Mi Terra Farm at the Appalachian Food Summit in September. When I heard John's unique perspective, I knew I had to have him on the show.

Through a partnership with Bill and Cynthia McCaskill of Quarters Farm and Loaves and Fishes, a Charlottesville-based food pantry, John and all the members of Hoos for Heifers are ensuring students have a hands-on experience and needy folks get to enjoy organic pasture-raised beef which is better for you but can be prohibitively expensive.

Why beef? Because most people eat it. Beef's price points are higher than chicken and turkey. So how can we provide the best quality to folks who can't afford it? Hoos for Heifers is attempting to do just that.

We discuss the organization in depth and talk a lot about his family background and childhood experiences. It's not all scenes of Pinterest pastoral. This is real life folks. This is income. There are hard realities that must be faced. Many farmers have a day job just to make ends meet. Add onto that the everyday realities of making dinner and getting kids to soccer practice and it's any wonder why the industry is aging out.

Grass fed beef wasn't always higher in price than grain fed. Why? What does John think when he hears "Appalachian Cuisine?" How does the notion of "privilege" fit into it all? And what does it mean to be a Carhartt kid in a North Face world? You'll have to listen to find out. I was inspired by Johnna and Saul's words at the summit and even more inspired by the son they raised.

Hoos for Heifers is collecting donations until the end of the Fall semester. So there's still time to donate! Go here. Now. And Happy Thanksgiving.

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• Hoos for Heifers on Facebook
• Better World Collective - a Charlottesville-based fundraising and donation intermediary for nonprofits.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

Meet Laura Brown, Communications & Marketing Associate for Local Food Hub (LFH). Kate Collier of Feast! started LFH, a non-profit organization, because she saw a need. A more streamlined method for local farmers to get their goods delivered to area consumers. A better way so these folks can focus on growing and making rather than logistics. LFH partners with small area farmers to distribute their product to area grocery stores, restaurants, and food banks. But that's not all they do.

LFH walks farmers through new food safety regulations, helping them interpret and understand good agricultural practices. Regulations can be costly, so LFH has a cost share program, subsidizing fees for farmers to make it less of a burden. They also offer workshops like Multi-Species Grazing, Organic Orcharding, and Beekeeping, which are free to partner farms, and open to the public for a nominal fee.

LFH purchases products outright, taking on full liability, alleviating the burden so farmers can prevent high insurance premiums. It also makes each piece of produce fully traceable to its source. And they pay $.80 on the dollar, much higher than grocery stores.

There's a reason there's a waiting list of farms eager to join! When I toured the warehouse, I didn't see just produce. Honey, eggs, grits, cornmeal, pancake mix, vinegar, chestnuts, NoBull Burgers and even local water line the shelves. Local water? Yeah, I "poo-pooed" too, until I tasted it. Yum!

Partnerships extend to the community in the form of donations to local area food banks and The Haven, but hunger relief organizations also purchase from LFH, extending the perimeter of folks able to enjoy local food. There are also programs like the Farmacy Prescription and Farm to Workplace, a pilot program with Crutchfield where the company shares in the cost of a CSA delivered to the workplace. Such programs can turn consumers into food citizens by showing them local produce isn't more expensive, and can be convenient. Good ingredients keep the workplace healthy.

But probably my favorite aspect of LFH are the Community Food Awards, where LFH recognizes the efforts of farmers, customers, and partners. What a wonderful idea, particularly for the farmers who often toil endlessly without recognition. Bravo Local Food Hub.

I really enjoyed talking with Laura Brown whose background is impressive. She's even spent time on Capitol Hill, but returned to her hometown of Charlottesville so she can impact her local community. And we're so glad she did.

Donate today! Volunteer tomorrow! And enjoy Episode 23. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• Polyfaces - The Virginia Film Festival will be showing this movie, a profile of Joel Salatin's farm, on November 7, 2015, in partnership with Local Food Hub. Tickets can be purchased here. Watch the trailer, it will get you motivated about local food!

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

All month long I've brought you stories and interviews with some of the founders of the Appalachian Food Summit. I wanted to end October's exploration with the woman whose question started it all.

Not long ago Kendra Bailey Morris, food writer and PR Manager for the Virginia Distillery Company, asked a question about Appalachian cuisine on Facebook. What followed was a discussion with commentary exceeding 200 posts. Someone suggested a group, and after a while, another person suggested a gathering. Thus, The Appalachian Food Summit was born.

This is the last in a four-part series on the summit, a gathering of folks committed to preserving Appalachia's unique cuisine and heritage, while at the same time bringing the region forward into one of economic vibrancy and cultural celebration. It's a mission of love and revival for an important part of our country needing some attention. While at the same time making sure Appalachia doesn't descend into stereotype and the food remains pure and unadulterated, not becoming a fancypants parody of itself. It's a gathering of inclusion, not exclusion, and prices for attendance are kept low so it's accessible and affordable for everyone. The Southern Foodways Alliance must agree with me because over the weekend Lora Smith was presented the 2015 John Egerton Prize on behalf of the Appalachian Food Summit. Insert thunderous applause here.

This was a unique interview done in two parts because sometimes life throws you a curveball. In the first part recorded shortly before the summit in Abingdon, Kendra had just come from her grandmother's funeral. Granny lived to be 100, and it was her love of food that started Kendra on her career path. We talk about her dressing in muffin tins with black walnuts from her tree. How the muffin tins make it crispy so guys working in coal mines and farm fields could take it with them. What is the right way to make West Virginia pepperoni rolls and what is grit bread? We discuss Kendra's traditional path to food writing and talk about how that is all but gone with the advent of social media.

We're also joined by Tricia Zawhorodny of the Virginia Distillery Company, for a lively discussion (and sampling) of their Highland-style single malt whisky. Made from 100% barley at the facility by a Scottish master distiller, the caramel-colored nectar is soft and delicious, redolent of honey and heather. Virginia Distillery Company opens mid-November on 100 acres in Lovingston, and will not only include a tasting room, but a huge indoor-outdoor fireplace, a museum, and an interactive tour. Tricia hails from Waynesboro, Virginia with an extensive background in food, including front of house, back of house, bartending, and a stint working for Sysco which brought her to the present position at VDC.

In the second portion of the interview recorded at Wintergreen, Kendra and I talk about the upcoming VDC grand opening. We also reflect on the mission and future of the Appalachian Food Summit now that it's winning awards. How can we make sure Appalachian cuisine stays true to itself and not become, ugh, TRENDY? What does the threat of a pipeline mean for Nelson county and how in the hell can we stop it? What classic Asian dish can be made in a crock pot? Finally, what volatile question on Facebook began the Appalachian Food Summit? You'll just have to listen to find out.

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• The Southern Slow Cooker - Kendra Bailey Morris creates Southern classics in a crock pot to scrumptious results.
• White Trash Gatherings - need a little something to take to your next family reunion "down home"? Kendra can help.
• Friends of Nelson County - stop the Dominion pipeline! Sign up to keep informed.
• Crock Pot Pho - from Jaden of Steamy Kitchen. Create this classic dish in hours rather than days. With minimal time at the stove.
• The Southern Living Community Cookbook: Celebrating Food and Fellowship in the American South - another instant Southern cookbook classic from Chef extraordinaire Sheri Castle.
• A Chef's Life, Season 3, Episode 7, "A Casserole Says Plenty" - Chef Sheri Castle gives her two cents on creating the perfect casserole every single time.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

Chef Travis Milton is a passionate spokesman for Appalachia and its cuisine. Growing up in Wise County he spent many hated hours picking beans before realizing early on in his cooking career he wanted to bring that food's sensibility to the world. Mostly vegetables. Meats as a flavoring agent and garnish. Comforting tastes and textures. Honest food. Everything grown from heritage seeds which translates into all the food on your plate tasting just a bit better than it would otherwise.

It's a story I've heard often. A chef works many jobs before realizing the kitchen is home. Travis traveled this path including a stint as a DJ where his handle was Miltie The Albino Love Machine. But while repairing race cars and teaching kids, he realized his true calling. And we reap the benefits. His Appalachian restaurant Shovel and Pick opens in Richmond's Scott's Addition in Spring 2016.

Why are greasy beans and sour corn the foundation for all the rest of his cuisine? What are they and why are they important? As he says, for a long time the Appalachian region hasn't had a voice. And now it has one through its food. Beans have dignity. Food can act as a symbol of Appalachia's endurance and sacrifice, which is why the jar of his family's heritage beans is one of his most prized possessions.

Why was it important to Travis to serve the Appalachian Food Summit Dinner as a "Fancy Ass Piccadilly"? Why did the Introduction to Cornbread Nation 3 make him break down? Why do Sheepshead fish have people teeth? How do you prepare bear for eating? Why does he carry a Macho Man Randy Savage card in his wallet? All this and more in Episode 21.

Travis is the real deal folks. He plans to source 80% of the produce for his restaurant from his heritage seeds grown on the family farm in Wise County. And yes, you can hear the anticipation for that night's dinner in my voice. If you're not hungry after this one, you might be dead. And if you don't laugh, I know you're a corpse. Funny funny dude. And a great storyteller. Enjoy!

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• Style Weekly - excellent profile of Chef Milton by Brandon Fox.
• The Shack - Chef Ian Boden creates Southern food that defies definition. Glamorous yet completely accessible. And of course, tasty as hell. One of the best in VA if not the nation.
• The Third Plate - by Dan Barber. Field notes on the future of food.
• Smoke & Pickles - Chef Ed Lee creates Southern food which includes his Korean roots.
• Heritage - Chef Sean Brock's award-winning, gorgeous tome of Southern favorites. Coffee table worthy!
• Shuck Beans, Stack Cakes, and Honest Fried Chicken - Ronni Lundy's classic collection of Southern food. And my personal favorite.
• Corn Bread Nation 3 - Food of the Mountain South - Excellent collection of food writing presented by the fine folks of the Southern Foodways Alliance.
• The Foxfire Book of Appalachian Cookery - just one of a huge series of cookbooks preserving Southern foodways. A classic!

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

In last week's podcast we talked about how one ingredient, salt, can reveal the history of an entire region. But what if you took it further? Meet artist Amy Cameron Evans, a painter who creates narratives based on found objects and food. They're modern still lifes. But they're much more. As Artist-in-Residence for the 2015 Appalachian Food Summit, Amy used recipes and profiles from the Saltville Community Cookbook to create portraits of the wonderful women who contributed their best recipes, and sometimes Glamour Shots (remember those?) to the book.

By painting just a few objects and assigning a title, the viewer gets a mental image, a real sense of who this person was. For example, in my favorite piece "Velma Had a Secret" the only thing she paints is a cardboard box of ice cream, some bacon, and a pickle alongside a swatch of fabric. An entire story in just a few words and images. Velma was created from Amy's imagination, but in my mind I have an entire picture of what she looked like. What makes her Saltville work so exciting is for the first time, Amy is creating portraits of actual women. Her exhibit from the Saltville Community Cookbook will be at The Harvest Table Restaurant in Abingdon until October 24th. Go see it!

In this episode, we discuss her process and how she came to love the stories behind the objects and recipes she discovers during her travels through local antique shops, used bookstores, and flea markets. Why does she use found wood instead of stretched canvas for her paintings? Does every found object have its own story to tell? What has been her most rewarding work so far? Is there room in the art world for food? Why are still lifes an important historical time capsule not only of what we ate, but how we lived? Has her work as an oral historian with the Southern Foodways Alliance helped her artwork? All this and more in Episode 20. I hope you'll enjoy this as much as I did creating it. Cheers.

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• Art & Pie - purchase Amy's work!
• Saltville Community Cookbook - purchase your own copy. Just for the Chocolate Rice recipe!
• Sam's Bar-B-Q - read about how Amy helped this small business rebuild and repaint their outdoor mural, all the while recording the experience for the Southern Foodways Alliance as an oral historian.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving

Part of the Appalachian Food Summit Series. Part 1 of 4.

Can you really get a sense of a region's history through one ingredient? Food writer and Appalachia advocate Ronni Lundy knows you can. Her book, Sorghum's Savor does just that. While it contains recipes, a good portion of the book talks about sorghum's history, what it is and isn't, and the fascinating stories behind the folks who bring it to your table.

As one of the founders of the Appalachian Food Summit, Ronni knows such stories are integral to understanding the evolution of a culture. Which is why we begin this episode's discussion around the history behind another ingredient, salt. At this year's gathering we were fortunate enough to have Nancy Bruns of JQ Dickinson Salt Works, a 7th generation salt farmer. Nancy considers salt an agricultural ingredient because in her words it is harvested from the ground and ripened by the sun. The history and evolution of this ingredient relates well to Appalachia's history as a land of extraction, as well as providing a base camp for all sorts of stories and anecdotes related to its history, harvest, and use.

Appalachia is a storytelling culture, and Ronni deftly uses this to incorporate important lessons into her tales. Because the purpose of the summit is to not only preserve, but to move Appalachia into the growing, abundant, thriving, economically and environmentally productive region we all know it can be. It's an heirloom that just needs a little spitshine. It's time for revival.

The fellowship from food gatherings is one of the hallmarks of Appalachia. Food as communion. Food as revival. Not food as performance where chefs come out after sweating their butts off in a kitchen just to receive a smattering of applause. There's a reason people crave the homemade meals from their upbringing. Food grown from heritage seeds taste better, keep longer, are better for the environment, and preserve history.

We discuss The Appalachian Food Summit, its goals, and how Facebook helped get it started, Why was it important to serve this meal cafeteria style? What exactly does Chef Travis Milton mean when he called this dinner a "fancy-ass Picadilly"?*

You're in for a treat guys. Ronni Lundy is a kick-ass broad. You're going to learn a lot. But these lessons are mixed in through great stories. Or as Ronni's says, "A little sugar before your medicine." Enjoy!

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

*Look for his interview in Episode 21, up October 16th.

Did you know one third of all the foods we eat are fermented? Even chocolate. The art of preserving foods using water and salt is thousands of years old. And luckily is having a resurgence. Dawn Story of Farmstead Ferments is here to teach us the health benefits of super foods like kraut, kimchi, and water kefir.

Digesting food requires a ton of energy by the body. It's hard work. But eating fermented foods not only aids the digestive process, but can provide good bacteria and enzymes the body needs to function. It's why pickle and kraut juice are often called "Nature's Gatorade". Enjoying fermented treats is a way to allow your food to be your medicine. Kraut and water kefir are not only delicious, but easy to incorporate into your daily diet.

My favorite Farmstead Ferments product, Garlicky Greens, is a fantastic, tangy, crunchy combination of preserved cabbage, kale, and collard greens. I add it to pizza, put it in a quesadilla with black beans, or just eat it straight from the jar. Yum. And a pickle juice shot after a big fatty meal is my new favorite thing. Better than Zantac!

What is the difference between heat canning and her products? What is the difference between bad bacteria like botulism that can occur with canning and the good bacteria which evolves during fermentation? What is the difference between decomposition and fermentation? And why are fermented foods safer to eat than raw foods?

What is a healing crisis? Why did her mention of apple kraut cause me to almost break out in tears? Why does the quality of the salt used to ferment matter? All of these questions will be answered in this episode. Also listen for probably the dumbest comment I've ever made in the history of Man. I'm so embarrassed. Whatever. I blame lack of caffeine.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

Whether you call them small plates, tapas, or mezze, these treats for sharing have been a part of the American restaurant scene for at least 20 years. So why are some folks still reluctant to embrace this European concept? That's our topic for Episode 17.

Meet Chef Justin Ross of Parallel 38, one of the most unique restaurants in Charlottesville. Its concept revolves around cuisines from countries lying along the 38th parallel. Countries like Greece, Turkey, Spain, Lebanon, the Napa Valley, and of course, Charlottesville. Parallel specializes in mezze or Eastern Mediterranean small plates which include ingredients like eggplant, goat, octopus, Zatar spice, and delicious labneh, a cheese made with Greek yogurt.

Justin is somewhat of a prodigy - pastry chef by 17 and running a wine program by 25. He eventually worked under José Andrés and Mike Isabella at Zaytinya during the time when José was just beginning his world domination of the culinary food world. His stories of Mom's bartending days at The Kennedy Center and all the experiences he had under the tutelage of Andrés were riveting. And the story he told about a customer he encountered during his first restaurant job, the one he still remembers to this day, made me tear up.

Why does Justin's business card say, "Busboy"? Why does he WANT you to tell him, in person of course, if something is not right with your meal? How does having a good palate translate from creating great food and pairing great wine to designing the perfect craft cocktail? What is he doing to demystify the secrets of the wine list and help remove the snobbery which can sometimes surround it? And why does he start off each day in the kitchen by listening to sad country songs? All this and more in this episode of Edacious. We also get into the "Strip Mall" argument for a bit. I blame the negronis. Do it up!

Starting this past Wednesday, September 9, 2015, Parallel 38 is offering More Mezze Wednesdays. Buy one mezze, get one free. Now that's a BOGO I can get behind.

This coming Tuesday, September 15, 2015, Parallel 38 is hosting a charity event to benefit the Frost Montessori School. For a $50 ticket, you can enjoy all the mezze you can put in your face hole, one white wine, one red, and one craft cocktail all to benefit a great cause. Tickets are still available. Contact the restaurant for more details!

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• José Andrés - get to know the man who made tapas famous in America. Does he ever sleep?
• Mike Isabella - you know him from Top Chef, but he also runs a DC-based restaurant empire.
• Parallel 38 cooks at the James Beard House - and just FOUR MONTHS after opening. Wow. Read this fine article to learn about a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Correction: Parallel 38 did not win "Best Vegetarian" in the C-Ville Weekly 2015 poll. They came in 3rd place. I'm sorry for the error.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

C&O Restaurant has been a landmark for almost 40 years. Such a landmark if you mention Charlottesville to anyone from someplace else, they will probably talk about it in the same breath as Monticello or the UVA Lawn. So what happens when a longtime owner passes the keys to a new steward? I talked to Chef Dean Maupin to find out.

I've been in love with C&O's bar since first venturing down the stairs late one night many years ago. The vibe, the wood, you feel like you're someplace else. Someplace older. In Europe. The food is amazing, the service exemplary, and the atmosphere down to earth. Sometimes rare in fine dining. And something owner Dave Simpson wanted to preserve when he gave ownership to Chef Maupin years ago. What did that feel like? Why does Chef Maupin consider it a stewardship rather than ownership?

How does the nurturing environment within C&O's walls help to foster new talent in the culinary industry? How did Chef Maupin get his start with an apprenticeship, something many young cooks bypass today in favor of culinary school? What was that like?

We talk about it all including how the C&O helped foster development along The Downtown Mall and where The Mall is headed. Is Charlottesville a world-class tourist destination that could sustain a restaurant on par with Magnus Nilsson's Fäviken? Is there still room for tasting menus or is fast casual becoming the norm?

I'm so glad I had the chance to talk with Dean and I know you'll love it. And folks, you have permission to stop into C&O in your jeans just for a few apps and a glass of wine so you don't break the bank. Chef Maupin has given you permission and I would guess a lot of other fine dining restaurants in the area would agree with him. So get out there! Don't save it for an anniversary or birthday. Make Tuesday night special.

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• Chef's Table - Magnus Nilsson's Fäviken - watch the trailer online!
• The Inn at Little Washington
• Chef Kevin Sousa - Pittsburgh's finest.
• Chef Grant Achatz of Alinea in Chicago
• Chef Ian Boden of The Shack in Staunton
• Chef Joe Beef - The Art of Living
• Chef Martin Picard - Au Pied du Cochon, The Album
• Chef Colin Perry of Montreal's Dinette Triple Crown

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

What's it like to be a female chef in an industry that doesn't always recognize women with awards and accolades? What are some of the assumptions made about women chefs with regard to how they run a kitchen, prepare their food, present themselves?

Melissa Close-Hart is a celebrated chef with decades of experience under her belt. The only woman on Charlottesville's "Mount Rushmore" of chefs, Melissa has been nominated four times as a James Beard semi-finalist during her tenure as Executive Chef of Palladio at Barboursville Vineyards. More times than any male chef in this area combined. What does she think of the Time magazine "Gods of Food" debacle that occurred a few years back? Do women just not pursue accolades? Or is that a generalization? In 2015, why do folks still assume men are line cooks and women are pastry chefs?

We discuss this at length during the episode as well as what it feels like to leave a kitchen after 14 years to pursue the dream of building something you can call your own. Her new venture, Junction, will open early next year in Belmont and feature cuisine with a Tex-Mex flavor, a tequila bar, and a much bigger dining room.

What one-word piece of advice does she give to young chefs just starting out to gain invaluable experience? How did working at McDonald's prepare her for fine dining? What's it like to not only change kitchens, but your whole cuisine? Why are Duran Duran and Kraft Mac and Cheese some of her favorite things? All this and more in Episode 15. I had a fantastic time talking with "Mama Mel" and I know you'll enjoy it.

This episode is sponsored by In A Flash Laser Engraving.

SHOW NOTES - Links to items discussed within the episode:

• The Gods of Food - TIME picks the people who most influence what we eat-and how we think about it.
• Chef's Table Season 1 on Netflix - Niki Nakayama of N/Naka in Los Angeles - Video trailer
• A Chef's Life - Vivian Howard of Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, NC - Watch online!
• The Mind of a Chef - Watch online!
• Attempting Normal by Marc Maron
• Take This Waltz by Sarah Polley