Edacious

Bay Work. With Oysters. Welcome to my conversation with Travis Croxton of Rappahannock Oyster Company, who, along with brother Ryan, has helped bring the long and storied tradition of Virginia Chesapeake Bay oysters back into the spotlight. From one small grill at Merroir in Topping, Virginia these brothers have built a restaurant empire, one that's growing all the time. From RockSalt in Charlottesville to their newest addition Rapp Session in Richmond, Rappahannock Oyster now has eight restaurants, including one in Los Angeles that opens in November. World domination is officially underway.

The Croxtons are 4th-generation oyster farmers, going back to the 1800's. The story of his family's agricultural origins was fascinating and made me grateful these two brothers are carrying on such an important legacy. Their logo was created using the signature of one of their ancestors and the paperwork for the land grant for the oyster farm hangs in one of their restaurants. A terrific idea, including story into your business. What advice does he have for new business owners? Listen to learn more!

For decades the Virginia oyster was nothing but a myth. Overfishing and bad farming practices had driven them almost to extinction. In New York they are extinct. Those fancy New York Blue Points? They come from Virginia and have since the 1800's. Luckily, good farming practices have brought these beauties back and it's a good thing. Oysters are excellent filters. Farming them keeps sediment in place and creates a biodiverse ecosystem. They act as an environmental cornerstone much like coral reefs. When oysters were overfished the bay became incredibly polluted with dead zones where the sun couldn't penetrate which meant many fish died. Today, if you visit the Croxton's farm, the water is so clear you can see straight to the bottom.

"I tell people, we have the cleanest waters in the country, especially the Rappahannock. There's no town, no city on it, it's all forested."

A working oyster farm like Rappahannock includes long lines, lead lines, and underwater cages, each one holding about 2,000 adult oysters, which mature in about 18 months to two years. A tumbling process hardens the shell and makes the cup deeper for a meatier oyster. Once mature, oysters are brought in for husbandry, separation into size and class. Other farms use floating cages but the Croxtons are cognizant of homeowners who'd rather not have their bucolic view of "The Rivah" spoiled. This farm not only produces a delicious product but provides jobs to folks in an area that desperately needs them.

On farming: "We're doing it in rural, economically challenged areas...just recently it dawned on us that we're actually creating a lot of jobs and good work tracks for people...if they show up on time for a year or so we put them on salary and give them benefits, and give them a career path. It's not just food benefits, and health benefits to the Chesapeake but the local economy...A lot of kids go to college and never come back...we're trying to reverse that trend."

Oysters have their own Merrior and Rapphannock's are no exception. The minerality of river flows down from the Blue Ridge add taste, as does the salinity of the ocean. The type of algae they eat affects taste. All of this impacts flavor and the water conditions impact the hardness of the shell and the way it's shaped. Like wine, there isn't just one oyster variety. Chincoteague oysters are going to taste dramatically different from river oysters because of merroir. Dramatically different flavor profiles they can showcase to chefs interested in their product.

On their beginnings, "We need to not only resurrect our Rappahannock farm, but we need to showcase a couple of other (oyster) locations and show the world that we are the Napa Valley of oysters."

The story of how they got chefs interested is downright mythic. They looked up the best restaurant in New York according to Zagat, and arrived at Le Benardin with a cooler between them. Chef Eric Ripert became an instant fan and began serving Rappahannock oysters in his restaurant.

"We had our first sales in the #1 restaurant in the country at the time. And we had no idea what we were doing...to this day chefs like Jen Carroll tell us, 'I remember when you guys walked into our kitchen. You guys were dumbasses!' We didn't even know how to shuck oysters back then."

Chefs have been key to getting the word out. Each chef at every Rappahannock Oyster Company restaurant is so talented, many nationally renowned, and all of them put their own special twist on how they prepare these beauties. If you've had the Lambs and Clams at RockSalt or the Oyster Bourride at Rapphannock, you certainly know what I'm talking about.

How can you shuck an oyster without cutting off a finger? What's the best way to store them? What is a spat? How do oysters spawn? Has consumption changed over the centuries? Are oyster farms affected by weather? Hurricanes? What are the origins of their famous Lambs and Clams? Did you know each restaurant makes this dish but does it a little differently? All the more reason to visit every restaurant in the Croxton kingdom.

The next time you travel down to "The Rivah" and take in its crystal clear beauty, thank an oyster. Then get yourself to one of the Croxton restaurants. You can enjoy oysters there and even pick some up to take home! They also sell them on their website. Whether they're raw, roasted, grilled, steamed, fried, or in a stew, it's good stuff. This episode made me SO hungry! Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Bashir Khelafa - The owner of Bashir's Taverna is in dire need. Please give early and often.
• Fire, Flour Fork - I will be moderating a panel on Women in Food at this event next week, hopefully interviewing Gabrielle Hamilton as well, fingers crossed. Get your tickets now!
• Caromont Farm Dinner - This event was stupendous. I will be airing a special episode profiling it Thanksgiving Day. How do you know it's Thanksgiving in Charlottesville? Record a voice memo with your name, where you're from, and why you know it's Thanksgiving. Mail it to me and you just might hear yourself on the podcast!
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday!
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!
• Leave a review about Edacious! - Click the link, then "View in iTunes" then "Ratings and Reviews". Whether you think it's great, or not so great, I want to hear from you. I might just read your review on the air! Whoa! #famousforahotminute

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

"You have to learn from your mistakes. But don't dwell on your mistakes."

Reimagining Work. With Labneh. And Wine. Welcome to Episode 83 of Edacious and a conversation with a restaurateur who has a chance many folks don't get. A second chance to open his restaurant in a new space. What does this mean for his staff? His customers? His bottom line? Meet Justin Ross of Parallel 38, a gentleman and scholar who had the courage to get vulnerable and real about the effects a closing, then a reopening has on the hearts, minds, and spirits of everyone involved. Recorded on August 1st when only a few regulatory papers lay between him and a grand opening. Anyone who's ever opened a restaurant can certainly commiserate with this sense of anticipation.

I spoke with Justin early on in Edacious history so it was intriguing to converse at this stage of the restaurant's development. Parallel didn't close due to lack of business, in fact, the last two weeks of service there wasn't an empty seat in the place. Because now, as then, Justin's primary focus is on the customer, making sure each one is treated not as a commodity but as a guest. Giving them the best dining experience possible.

On guests: "We're there for them. Whether you're front of house or back of house. If they don't come to the building, there's no reason to be there. We need to make sure we take care of them even before they walk through the door. Anticipating their needs."

"There are going to be people you cannot please. And maybe noone pleases those people. But I think part of what we are here to do is to find out how...Every single one of those customers should be a learning experience."

The old spot in Stonefield presented challenges. The new spot, in the old L'Etoile space on West Main, presents new ones. We talk about the delicate navigation involved in overcoming obstacles with regard to the customer base, parking, kitchen size, square footage. As in real estate, location is key. The new space is much smaller. How do you go from airy to cozy? What do you have to change? We talk about it.

"We never want to force our concept into a space. We want to find a space that fits whatever concept we have in mind. We saw that space and we fell in love with it. We thought it was the perfect spot for Parallel...The building has a lot of charm to it...It's an old building. It's really amazing to go into a space that has been a restaurant for 35, 40 years...and put our mark on it. I think people are going to be wowed by all the differences inside."

I've seen the new space and it's terrific. The outside patio has been doubled and somehow, the interior seems bigger! There's a gorgeous wall-sized wine rack at the top of the stairs, clever lighting, judicious use of barrels, and the bar downstairs promotes lingering. I haven't even mentioned the gorgeous walls, stripped to bare brick, covered in graffiti-style murals. Pair that with all of your favorites some old, some new, those amazing cocktails and that great wine selection, and the new Parallel 38 looks to be a great addition to the West Main Street restaurant corridor.

One thing that hasn't changed? The concept. Food and drink served mezze style, tapas, small plates, originating from countries that lie along the 38th parallel. Sourcing? Most of it locally, like pork from Autumn Olive Farms, a past podcast guest. What about the menu? Johnny Garver heads up the kitchen once again and yes, all of your old favorites are here, including some new ones. During Friends and Family Night, we inhaled ALL of the spreads (I love you, labneh!) and enjoyed grilled octopus, fried sardines (YUM!), and lamb skewers sous-vided to perfection. The flatbread is now made to order and while some menu items have disappeared I spied the same blistered shishitos, charcuterie, salads, and that awesome pork belly Parallel. The sauce on it is new and I like it even better!

On the menu: "You'll probably see less pizzas. You'll probably see some pastas but not to the extent we had to there...We're going to balance our menu based on who's coming to the restaurant but we just think we have the opportunity to be a little more adventurous in our menu now...Our menu will probably we a bit more rustic, a bit more approachable, but with some really fun things."

What role did the Stonefield folks play in his grand reopening? What lessons did Justin learn? What perfect storm had to happen for him to reopen so quickly? Why does it say, "No finished products!" in his hiring ads? Why does it say "Busboy" on his business card? Will Parallel have the same great barrel-aged cocktails and wine? How will all of the Main Street development affect Parallel? What is Justin's favorite unsung hero wine region? Can we please bring back the Main Street Festival? And what piece of advice does he give new business owners? What must you be willing to do and not do?

"Change is inevitable. Growth is optional. Surround yourself with people smarter than you."

If it's one thing I took away from this conversation it's how important it is to thank your host, your server, your bartender if you've had a tremendous eating experience. Because you never know. The next time you go to make a reservation your favorite spot might be closed. You'll be left reminiscing about all the good times you had. This is a tough business and restaurants "fail" (note the quotes) because of a myriad of reasons.

I absolutely loved Parallel 38 in its old incarnation. When I learned of its closing I wrote a heartfelt thank you post and paid my respects, thinking his place had met the fate of so many other beloved establishments in Charlottesville. Whether its the location, the challenges, or the persnickety nature of the customer base, many restaurants just don't make it. When I discovered it would reopen? After finishing my Happy Dance I contacted Justin. Welcome to a very special episode and one I know I will remember and return to time and again. Get your tissues. You'll need them.

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Thank You Parallel 38 - Remember to appreciate your favorite restaurants while they're still open.
• Justin was on the podcast in its infancy!
• This is Charlottesville - Sarah Cramer Shields has created something wonderful here!
• Lovefest! Between Parallel 38 and L'Etoile on Facebook
• Just Showing Up - Episode 25.
• Dirtwoman was on NPR - Dirt's dirt and dirt don't hurt. RIP Donnie Corker.
• Virginia Distillery Company - On October 21st, VDC will release it's Cider Cask Finished Highland Malt Whisky!
• Caromont Farm Dinner - This October! Ian Boden from The Shack is the chef this go round. I'll be recording. It will sell out. Get your tickets now.
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!
• Leave a review about Edacious! - Click the link, then "View in iTunes" then "Ratings and Reviews". Whether you think it's great, or not so great, I want to hear from you. I might just read your review on the air! Whoa! #famousforahotminute

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

"Cheese wins. Always." ---Sara Adduci, Feast!

Cheese Work. With Extra Cheese Please. Welcome to Episode 82 and my conversation with cheesemonger Sara Adduci of Feast! Sara worked front of house at various restaurants for 26 years. At a certain point she was moonlighting as a photographer. It was during a shoot for the wedding of a wine and cheese shop owner that her new career was born. She began working at Julia Battaglini's Secco Wine Bar in Richmond, spending all her earnings on cheese. It was an edacious romance with an extra aged gouda that set her on the path to learning everything there is to know about fermented milk.

How did she educate herself? Tasting! Taking notes afterward. Reading books. Sara just returned from a 6-week whirlwind cheese tour through Europe. An educational summer abroad began with a 2-week internship at L'Amuse Fromagerie in Amsterdam. She even spent time on an island of sheep! An island where Dutch folks bring livestock to graze and people and cars are forbidden. From there she traveled to Sicily, Spain, and France, including a visit to a comté producer. Sara got to see the caves where hundreds of wheels sit quietly aging, gathering the nutty, buttery flavors that good comté is known for. Sara got to hand-select a wheel to bring back to Feast!, the shop in Main Street Market where she plies her wares. They even carved her name into it. It's at the shop now. Go get you some before it sells out!

Her education shows. Sara has competed in The Cheesemonger Invitational multiple times, winning a bronze medal in 2016. What are some of the paces the judges put her through? We talk about it. At Feast! Sara is given carte blanche to order whatever cheese she thinks will sell, a balancing act of educating folks on new and strange cheeses but also catering to their tastes by including old favorites. There are some cheeses Sara loves that folks just don't like. Price is also a factor with some cheeses just being too expensive to offer on a regular basis.

"There are some things that are a little obscure, a little different, but that's part of the joy of being a cheesemonger is really being able to introduce people to things they aren't familiar with. Explaining where it came from, how it was made, who made it, why it's so good, what you can do with it. That really is for me the best part of doing what I do."

Cheesemaking is a 24-7 job just like farming. Folks who do it are not in it for the money but for the love of the craft.

"If you ever spend 24 hours on a working cheesemaking farm, you will understand completely why cheeses cost what they do. It's a job that never ends. They do it because they love it not because they're making a huge amount of money."

"I'd rather spend $5 on a small piece of cheese made by people that you know about and you know how they raised their animals and you know how they make their cheese and you know how much they care about it as opposed to a $5 huge piece of cheese from a supermarket that's made in a commercial factory with milk that's pooled from who knows where?"

Exactly. One of the goals of Sara's summer abroad was to learn how smaller producers can stay successful, creating artisanal products without the danger of going out of business. Is it community support? Agritourism? What is the magic formula for success in cheese? How do all the components come together so you can create cheese the right way? Every single time? The culture of cheese is different in Europe as well. People eat more of it for one thing. It's rare to sit down at a meal where you don't find a little bit of cheese to nibble. How do we translate that culture to American tastes?

Caring for good cheese is vital as well because it can easily pick up flavors in your fridge. Make sure you slice off a tiny piece of the outside before serving so you have a "clean face". Wrap it in parchment, not plastic. Cheese needs to breathe. It's also important to serve it at the right temperature. Luckily, a good cheesemonger like Sara can walk you through everything and it never has to be an intimidating experience. Just talk to her! Tell her about your event even if the event is Tuesday Night. Tell her what you like to eat and she can direct you to a new favorite or a better version of an old one.

Are there cheesemongers who are lactose intolerant? What cheeses are best for those suffering from this condition? What cheese can you throw into the rice cooker to infuse it with flavor? How do you ship a giant wheel of cheese from Europe anyway? How do American cheesemakers dance through the many regulations placed on cheese production? What are the Cheesemonger Feats of Strength? Listen to find out!

I've followed Sara's photography on Instagram for years. First met her during a Farm Dinner at Caromont, Gail Hobbs-Page's querencia of goat cuddling and excellent cheese. How appropriate! Give this episode a listen. Then get yourself to Feast! and load up on some good stuff. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Five Finds on Friday - Sara Adduci's choices were so creative! And delicious.
• Concert for Charlottesville - Did you see it? Wow.
• Taste This! - A wonderful fundraiser for Meals on Wheels.
• Help Puerto Rico - Please. Please. Please.
• Caromont Farm Dinner - This October! Ian Boden from The Shack is the chef this go round. I'll be recording. It will sell out. Get your tickets now.
• WTJU Jazz Marathon - Donate early and often.
• Gabrielle Hamilton - My podcast dream guest. My favorite chef, restaurant, and food writer all in one. Keep your fingers crossed I get to talk with her sometime very soon! She will be appearing as part of Richmond's Fire, Flour, Fork. Get your tickets here.
• Foggy Ridge Cider, Dugspur, Virginia - Not just great cider, Diane's Garden Cottage is heaven on earth.
• Chordify - Learn to play an instrument within minutes! I did.
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

Wine Work. In The Car. Dirt and Stuff With Jake.

Welcome to Episode 81, a conversation with a former goth slash punk rock frontman, a gentleman who has spent years making wines of place. Now he's producing his own artisanal wines using the very best selection of grapes from vineyards he helped design. The results? Extraordinary. Meet Jake Busching of Jake Busching Wines.

Jake grew up in Minnesota on a farm. Singing in a band as a teenager, he made his way to Richmond, Virginia where he ended up working in food at a Holiday Inn. A huge shock to a boy from the midwest. A place where he learned the value of food and its culture. Musicians and food. A match made in heaven. So many folks on this podcast got their start this way.

How did wine appear? As with so many great stories, he met a girl, eventually landing in Charlottesville. A chance meeting with the owner of Jefferson Vineyards set him on his path. Initially, he initially took over farm management duties. Then Chris Hill, the Vineyard Manager, needed someone to fix stuff. He also needed help laying out a new vineyard. Michael Shaps happened to be the winemaker. The planets aligned back in 1997 at the birth of a new Virginia industry and a winemaker was born.

"The farm boy in me was like the seasonality of this totally makes sense to me. Grow a crop, harvest the crop, turn it into wine. Wow! From an agricultural perspective that sounded like sign me up! This is a freak show of really interesting people!"

He also found his tribe in wine, a cast of characters passionate and creative about wine without the snobby attitude. A little more rock and roll than classical symphony. Different from the early days of Napa, grape-wise, but with the same edacious feeling. Growing grapes in Virginia is never a sure thing where rain and humidity always threaten harvest. This gamble adds to that attitude of we'll give it a shot and hope for the best. When you do get a great harvest? It's that much sweeter. Farming Virginia grapes is also very different than in Europe where folks spend decades learning their dirt and the best grapes that grow in it, transitioning that knowledge into making wine with a team of experts including a chemist, farmer, and vineyard manager.

"In Virginia a lot of our wineries…there's a lot of money being spent in Virginia. There's not a lot of money being made in Virginia. The wine industry is agriculture. It's a hard thing to do. There's a lot of wineries for sale."

Jake spent years learning how to grow grapes for various vineyards, including Jefferson and Horton. There's a reason they call him The Dirt Guy. When he got the call from Pollak to design one from the ground up? Yes please! He applied his viticulture there, his wine growing skills. There's a difference. Growing grapes means you're trying to grow as many as possible. An agricultural crop. Growing wine means you're growing the best bottles you can. There's a reason he calls his business Jake Busching ARTISANAL Wines.

A journey that began as a grape grower, eventually moved to wine grower, then on to vineyard manager, and now to winemaker. Area vineyards trust Jake, allowing him to choose which rows of grapes he wants to use to make his wines. For example, at Honah Lee Vineyard, Jake selected a certain row of grapes because they lay on a gentle south-facing slope of land. A beautiful place with a great view. A perfect site for perfect fruit.

And what about those wines of his anyway? Jake currently has four in rotation, including his F8 and his Orphan which he just released with a big tasting at Tavola. He makes wines of place. Transitioning away from that, Jake wants to remain a relevant winemaker under his own artisanal label. In limited quantities, 50 cases at a time. His 2015 Viognier sold out. With good reason. It's gorgeous. After tasting it, I went to his site and bought ALL the wine. Pair that with expert design from Watermark? You've got all the hallmarks of a truly great emerging wine collection.

"Legacy is weird. That's a hard thing because I've been building legacy for other people for 20 years. It's hard for me to swallow that pill and say okay it's time to put yourself on a pedestal because that's not something I'm comfortable with at all. And so how do I do that without losing the sense of who I really am? I really want to make wine. I love it. I absolutely love it."

Jake sells his wine as an independent winemaker. Without a vineyard or a tasting room or a winery. He's a winemaker with a need for a creative outlet. So he does it for other people. His career as a consultant began when Michael Shaps stepped in to help Pollak. Now they make wine for 16 area wineries. They also consult with wineries from everything from dirt to vineyard design. In this way small startups don't waste grape harvests learning how to make wine.

"Growing grapes is capturing sunlight, interpreting dirt through a grapevine, and having an expression of a place come out in a glass of wine. That's what we do."

"It's pretty easy to grow grapes and make wine. You're not necessarily going to make any money at it, but you can do it…Selling wine is a whole different ballgame. Finding the right people to do that is critical."

Agritourism is crucial in Virginia because at the end of the day a winery is a grape farm. They have to sell their crop and they have to do it on-site. Folks don't want to come out and buy wine when it's raining, but that's when it's not busy! Every winery has a great view and there are so many producing quality vintages. So get out there.

These days, Jake spends most of his time in the car, visiting up to 10 vineyards a day. His broad knowledge means he can look at your dirt, your vineyard design, your grapes, and tell you what you could do better to build a sustainable business.

All that time spent in the car is good for me because he has plenty of time to listen to Edacious! When I started two years ago it was the food folks who showed up first and Jake is no exception. I hear from him regularly with suggestions for guests and improvements to content and audio. That kind of community support keeps me going, so it was a thrill to finally sit and talk with him.

What happens when wineries win awards for vintages that Jake and Michael made? What's the first thing Jake looks at when someone asks him to design a vineyard? What essentials does he teach in his wine course at PVCC? What is Man Church? What is Tannat? Listen to find out! The episode was recorded right before grape harvest, the busiest time of wine season which is happening RIGHT NOW! So send all our local winemakers your blessings for good sunny weather.

The introduction was recorded on the front porch of the Garden House at Foggy Ridge Cider. Thank you, Diane Flynt, for the wonderful accommodations and lovely garden vegetables, cider, and eating apples. Interested in escaping to a rural country retreat without television or Internet? CHECK OUT MY PICTURES AT THIS LINK and rental information on her website. Heaven on earth! Go stay there and take some of Jake's wine with you. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Vintage: The Winemaker's Year - watch a clip!
• The Coatroom - Make a reservation. Now. Will Curley will treat you right.
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

September is Virginia Spirits Month! Celebrate with all of your favorites. Preferably while listening to this episode.

Spirit Work. With Community Changes. Welcome to Episode 80 and the very first recorded after the events of August 12th. Meet Ian Glomski of Vitae Spirits, a former UVA professor of microbiology who decided to take his knowledge and apply it to the science of distilling. With fabulous results.

Edacious is about community, so we begin with how August 12th affected Charlottesville, including disturbing events that happened right next door the day after. The fact this happened in summer, the slowest season for business, didn't help. At all. What then? We talk about it, as well as the challenges faced by our community as all sorts of changes, good and bad, happen when the town you live in has its moment in the national spotlight. We're used to being named the Prettiest Little Town That Ever Existed. How do we handle this new label? How do we move forward consciously, with awareness and compassion? And how do we embrace revitalization when the very concept looks different depending on your perspective?

Ian's love of microbes began early, college in fact, when he discovered while he couldn't legally drink beer, he did have the ingredients to make it. A microbiology class improved his technique. A Ph.D. followed soon after. Eventually Ian became a professor at the UVA School of Medicine, but his passion for fermentation never waivered. Pair that with a family background in wine and a job which no longer fed him emotionally and you've got the perfect equation for a new life path. A boutique distillery focusing on making the best possible spirits money can buy.

"There's a certain level of scientist in me where I try to control variables as much as possible, but you can only control so many things and there's a certain amount of intuition that I've developed...in the three-plus decades that I've been doing fermentation."

Vitae Spirits was founded in 2015 and in only two years has made a name for itself, winning medals for its Modern Gin and Platinum Rum. Their tasting room is sleek, modern, yet insanely comfortable. A place right in town to tuck in and enjoy some tastings, maybe even a cocktail. Right next door to an awesome barbecue spot. But it's off the beaten path in the burgeoning neighborhood of Rose Hill. What are Ian and his team doing to get folks there? How are his mission and vision different from those of corporate distillers?

"This was in my business plan...we want to maintain authenticity as best as possible...my ideal way of growth is essentially word of mouth. That has to be promoted in a lot of different ways...I'll never be buying an NFL football spot even if I could afford it because...I want it to feel like a garage band situation where people recognize us as their own private, personal thing. That means we have to keep in touch with our customers."

One method is using story. When Ian pours you a tasting of Golden Rum, you are being served by the man who made it. When he travels to festivals and restaurants selling his wares you are looking in the eyes of the man who spent hours developing the nectar in your mojito. He oversees every step of the process from fermentation to bottling. That's huge. That use of story is elemental to good business growth. Incorporating a good logo by Convoy and beautiful bottle artwork by Lara Call Gastinger continues the story, sealing the deal.

"There's a really long history of alcohol being associated as a medicine or with a medicine…the distillation process was discovered by Muslim alchemists…the alchemists were looking for an elixir of life…they put wine in an alembic still, a colorless liquid came out…they put a pear in it and the pear never rotted…they interpreted that as that liquid was infusing life force."

The process of distilling rum, gin, and liqueurs is very different from creating bourbon or whisky. We discuss the ingredients as well as the process. Like those spirits, you have to jump through the same state and federal bureaucratic hoops. It's an incredibly long and challenging series of events. We talk about it, as well as some of the ways our Commonwealth is making it a bit easier which should result in a spirits boom similar to the ones we've seen with wine and beer.

"For our rums we use the highest grade molasses..it's more like an evaporated sugar cane juice...sometimes referred to as sugarcane honey...it's super sweet and flavorful in the positive sense...we have almost completely uncooked evaporated juice so we don't get a lot of those bitter sulphery aromas..."

Did you know there was a distilling "incident" in Woolen Mills in 1983? What is carrot vodka? What's the difference between grape vodka and grappa? Can you make rum from sorghum? What liqueur collaboration is in development with a local coffee roaster? What local citrus does he use in his orange liqueur, one you may not know about? Could absinthe happen in Virginia? What research did he do before starting? We cover it all!

Are you a home bartender with no outlet for your passion? Create a cocktail using Vitae Spirits! Entries are due September 4th. Details below and on the Vitae Spirits website.

You can find Vitae Spirits in many Virgina ABC stores and its cocktails in many local restaurants. Maps for both can be found on the website. Of course, you can also visit the tasting room, take a tour, enjoy a specialty cocktail, and purchase a bottle to take home.

Ian founded Vitae the same year as Edacious. In my early days, I recorded at In a Flash Laser which just happened to be upstairs. It's been so rewarding to see Vitae's development. To finally see the finished tasting room just yesterday when I recorded? Wonderful. Get yourself there ASAP and enjoy all of your favorite local craft spirits as part of Virginia Craft Spirits Month. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Jake Busching Wines - The most recent "Food I'm Forking". Get you some! It's that good.
• Help Our Charlottesville Community Recover - Please consider donating to this cause, supporting victims of last weekend's violence. Thank you.
• Resist. Persist. - Brian Ashworth of Ace Biscuit and Barbecue clashes with Nazis in his restaurant on Sunday. Eater has the story. Bravo Brian!
• When Scientists Give Up - Why did Ian become a distiller? Read on! Great article.
• Montedomaine Petit Verdot Grappa - a Virginia-made grappa, pulled from ABC shelves due to low sales. Come on Virginia! Grappa is great!
• Spirits Lab - Forage sounds amazing. I will be searching for this one immediately!
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

"In every community, there is work to be done. In every nation, there are wounds to heal. In every heart, there is the power to do it." ---Marianne Williamson

Resistance Work. With Persistence, Resolve, Resilience, and Magic. Welcome Friends, to a special episode of Edacious. Because it is not business as usual in our town of Charlottesville, Virginia this week. Now is not the time to speak of the latest greatest cocktail invention, nor to promote the latest brewery opening or wine dinner. Now is the time to celebrate all that is good about Charlottesville, to remind ourselves despite the hatred that visited us over the weekend, when all is said and done, we are magic. We are greater than the sum of our parts. When our community decides to come together for a common cause with Big Love behind it, there is nothing that can stop us. Our resolve, our resilience, our persistence, and our magic will be the ingredients that point the way and keep us grounded. It's why I started this podcast. I looked around the community where I live and said, "Wow, folks need to know about this. Immediately. There is magic here."

In this episode, I talk about Community Magic and the good folks who make it happen for us each and every day in our stores, on our farms, in our offices, in our fields, at our restaurants and kitchens. Folks whose passion is food but who know that food is just a starting point for so many other greater discussions and events and moments of connection. I'm convinced food is the great equalizer, the thing we all do, the thing each and every one of us can connect on. If you can just get someone from the other side of the fence to break bread with you, amazing things can happen. It's why I'm here. It's why I will continue to use this podcast to broadcast magic. Go in peace friends. Break bread. Practice self care. Get strong. Because this is only the beginning. Big Love. #Charlottesville #CvilleStrong #LoveisLove #YallMeansAll

Charlottesville Makers of Magic Mentioned During This Episode. There are SO many others near and far I didn't get to. From the bottom of my heart, I thank you for keeping our Charlottesville community strong as well as your own, wherever you may be.

Kristin Adolfson of Still Point Press Design Angie Akey of Moxie Salon Brian Ashworth of Ace Biscuit and Barbecue Heather Balmat, trademark lawyer Jason Becton and Patrick Evans of MarieBette Café and Bakery Bellair Market MC Blair, radio host Laurie Blakey of Pearl's Bake Shoppe Jake Busching, winemaker Sheri Castle, food writer Polina Chesnakova, food writer Sara Cramer Shields and Andrea Hubbell of Our Local Commons Travis Croxton of Rappahannock Oyster Company Nancy Carter Crump, food historian Will Curley of The Coat Room Cville Coffee Simon Davidson of The Charlottesville 29 Victoria Dunham, chef Tim Edmond and Daniel Potter of Potter's Craft Cider Feast! Liz Finklestein, Piefest volunteer Jeanne Frey of Treat Yourself Right Massage Tim Gearhart of Gearhart's Fine Chocolates Grit Coffee Craig Hartman of The BBQ Exchange Martin Herbert of Small Potatoes Sales and Marketing and an Edacious Patreon supporter Gail Hobbs-Page of Caromont Farm Cheese Betty Hoge, Small Business Development Center David Hopper of Chutney Ferret Industries Phyllis Hunter and Will Harville of The Spice Diva Integral Yoga Java Java JM Stock Provisions Michele Jones of Pasture, Flora, Comfort Tami Keaveney of Tavola and The Cicchetti Bar Harrison and Jennifer Keevil of Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen Market Street Market Milli Joe's Susan McCulley, Nia Instructor Christopher Morris, photographer Mudhouse Coffee Gerry Newman of Albemarle Baking Company Rachel Pennington of The Pie Chest Jenny Bandy Peterson of Paradox Pastry Rebecca's Natural Foods Allie Redshaw Wilson Richey of Ten Course Hospitality Matt Rohdie of Carpe Donut Shenandoah Joe's PK Ross of Splendora's Gelato Bill Smith of Crook's Corner Hunter Smith of Champion Brewery Dawn Story of Farmstead Ferments Ian Thomas and Marlene Steiner of Virginia Distillery Company Timbercreek Market Angelo Vangelopoulos of The Ivy Inn Justin Vesser, PieFest and Soup There It Is! contest winner Amanda Welch of Grubby Girl Brian Wimer of IX Park and Lovefest Cynthia Woodring, yoga instructor

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Help Our Charlottesville Community Recover - Please consider donating to this cause, supporting victims of last weekend's violence. Thank you.
• An Open Letter - Local food writer Simon Davidson responds to a GQ piece about August 12th.
• An Eyewitness - Local graphic artist Kristin Adolfson, who designed this very website, was a witness to the violence last Saturday. Here is her account in The New Yorker.
• Resist. Persist. - Brian Ashworth of Ace Biscuit and Barbecue clashes with Nazis in his restaurant on Sunday. Eater has the story. Bravo Brian!
• A Mother Grieves - Huffington Post speaks with Susan Bro, mother of Heather Heyer who tragically lost her life in last weekend's violence.
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

Meat Work. Whole Damn Animal. In this conversation meet James Lum III and Matthew Greene of JM Stock Provisions. Our very own whole animal butchery right here in Charlottesville, Virginia. Third partner Hunter Hopcroft of the Richmond outpost couldn't join us, but no worries. We had enough butcher talk to go around!

I always ask the question, "Who should I talk to next?" at the end of each Edacious conversation. When you get to four or five saying, "Talk to JM Stock!" you take the hint. These guys are the real deal. They're doing the work, not just presenting an image to promote an image or make money. Every "Beef Day" they're in the back breaking down entire animals. Autumn Olive Farms, a past podcast guest, delivers whole pigs, Free Union Grass Farm delivers ducks, and River Oak Farm brings chickens just to name a few.

Synchronicity and happenstance played a big part in the decision of these two Winchester natives and former restaurant professionals to open a butcher shop. How were they trained and what did it involve? We talk about it as well as how their Kickstarter campaign played a big part in their future success. Watch the video. The end is the best thing ever LOL!

"It was really cool. It was a great experience. It was very moving to see that many people step up and show their support for what we wanted to do and Matt and I as individuals and the future of sustainable food. We had donors from Houston, Texas and San Francisco. It was cool to see that." ---James Lum III

JM Stock takes on interns every six weeks, one day a week, a renewable contract based on performance. They start out doing grunt work. If they can handle it, then comes the education. A great way to not only spread the gospel but discover untapped talent here in our area, creating jobs as they go. Half of their staff has graduated from the intern pool but that also means half just can't cut it. Literally.

"There is very little that is glamorous about it. Being a butcher is as blue collar as it comes. It's as blue collar as welding without the permanence of it. You could say that we're artisans but it's a term that is widely overused. We have a skill set that most people don't have. We believe what we do is super important. But it's not glamorous. It's a lot of hard work." ---Matthew Greene

"Part of our job is making it seem lovely. Which could be part of the problem." ---James Lum III

"The goal is to make what we do seem cool because in order for us to be successful we need people to care about what it is that we're doing. I think that that's true for most businesses...what we're doing is for the good of the community." ---Matthew Greene

It's a conundrum. How do you get folks to care without making them too queasy about where their meat comes from? How do you survive the pushback from vegetarians and others who think it's gratuitous and disrespectful to show a whole hog being broken down online. It's a delicate dance between education and not respecting the animal for the sake of Instagram and a dance these two gentlemen navigate very well. One look at their social media can tell you that.

We discuss this dance. Educating folks about why talking to your butcher and finding out where your meat comes from is an important aspect of being an educated consumer. It's not a luxury, but a new way of thinking that's actually an old way. Not just picking up the vacuum-packed pound of ground beef but TALKING to the butcher, finding out where that beef came from. Maybe letting him talk you into a new-t0-you off cut of meat like beef neck, which is delicious, easy to prepare, and tastes better than your momma's pot roast.

In sourcing locally and supporting sustainable agriculture is often seen as "hippy-dippy" or elitist, particularly in Charlottesville. But as Matt says so eloquently, part of JM Stock's goal is to support local, sustainable agriculture even in an area where real estate costs are high which means the cost to produce said animal is higher. That doesn't mean it has to be fancy, or only for the rich, or for those folks who consider themselves homesteaders. It should and can be for everybody.

"Our constant goal is to make it (sustainable agriculture) more and more approachable to everybody...especially for those in their late 20's and early 30's who are just starting to figure out what it is they care about as far as feeding themselves and feeding their families." ---Matthew Greene

How do you make a visit to the butcher less intimidating? We talk about that at length. Ideally, it should be no more fear-inducing than talking to your pharmacist, your hairdresser, or your barista. JM Stock knows interaction is key and keeps that goal in mind with every guest. Greeting every customer, engaging with them, getting to know them, asking questions, offering advice. When you have 80+ varieties of sausage alone, it helps when you feel comfortable enough to converse!

"The initial contact and initial engagement is the most important part of finding out with each particular customer what their personal preference is and making it an experience that is tailored to them." ---Matthew Greene

What is the first rule of Meat Club? To talk about it! A true CSA for meats. When you sign up you get a box of old favorites as well as new cuts with instructions and recipes on how to prepare it all. A great way to discover cuts you didn't even know you loved. As someone who gravitates to the same ol' same ol' this CSA peaked my interest immediately. In fact, I started shopping for a basement meat freezer like my Grandaddy had!

JM Stock sources beef from Grayson Natural Farms, Wolf Creek Farm, and Deep Rock Farm. Pork comes from Autumn Olive Farms. Ducks come from Free Union Grass Farm, and chickens and turkeys come from River Oak Farm. Lamb arrives from Meadows Pride Farm. What happens when the animal arrives? We discuss the process, as well as why Beef Day is their favorite thing ever.

Can they tell if a cow was spring-processed or winter-processed just by looking at the meat? Do they ever "shop" for beef by looking at the cows grazing in the farm fields they visit? What are their favorite cuts and ways to prepare it? What is the Curse of Richmond? Is the Richmond customer different from one in Charlottesville? Who has the nickname Beef Neck? You'll just have to listen to find out.

Did you know JM Stock has breakfast biscuits with their award-winning Tasso ham each and every morning? Specialty sandwiches on the weekend? One of the most extensive collections of beer, wine, and cheese in the area? Produce? This isn't just a butcher shop folks, but a 7-days-a-week farmer's market, a place to visit daily, to talk, converse about meat, and pick up whatever delicacies you need to feed your family. This episode only solidified my commitment to eating meat that is humanely raised and sustainable, which makes it the most delicious you'll ever taste. Give a listen then get you some. I recommend the Cerdito sausage. Instant Best of 2017 contender. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

Whisky Work. Without the E. It's a twofer on Edacious! In this episode, we hear from Marlene Steiner and Ian Thomas, both of Virginia Distillery Company in Lovingston, Virginia. Today's podcast is another chance to educate everyone on the American Single Malt spirit category and on Virginia Distillery Company who are making waves, collecting awards as they do. In March VDC was named the Best American Single Malt Whisky at the World Whiskies Awards, presented by Whisky Magazine. When their own single malt, distilled right here in Virginia, is ready in 2019? I've no doubt the medals will continue to roll in.

Founder Dr. George Moore was a native Irishman and successful entrepreneur whose passions were Virginia and whisky. He raised his family here because it reminded him of Ireland and spent his life marrying his passions, working to establish a true whisky distillery in Virginia. Son Gareth and his wife Maggie carry on that tradition with VDC. First up? A complete tour of the process and a conversation with Distillery Director Ian Thomas.

My favorite part? The Cask Room full of aging whisky. The minute you walk in you're hit with a wall of lovely smells, wood, oak and aging alcohol with hints of vanilla and caramel. Air so thick and redolent if you breathe through your mouth you can taste it. I never wanted to leave!

"There's something about this industry where it's not quite instant gratification. You have to have a good bit of patience when making good whisky. There's something about walking into a space like that and seeing a sea of 7-800 casks resting and waiting...It fills me with joy." ---Ian Thomas

How do you know when whisky is ready for bottling? Who makes the final decision? Sensory analysis and training your palate is a huge part. The distillers train themselves, but also take a wide-open approach involving a tasting panel made up of folks in the brand department, production, and on the corporate side. Even folks working as Guest Experience Managers get a say. The distillers take that data, reference it, and make some decisions. Ian hails from Memphis, Tennessee where he studied Biology. Beyond distilling, Ian and his team are working hard to promote American Single Malt Whisky as a viable, respected, clearly-defined product.

"We're working hard with the American Single Malt Commission...to drive home this defining category of American Single Malt...We're really striving to help push this category...and get it defined...As a consumer, you always want to know what it is that you're purchasing...it's very much about knowing truly, if this is a single malt, there should be nothing blended into it." ---Ian Thomas

Does single malt reign supreme? Are blends better? We discuss both schools of thought. There is true skill to blending consistently and a couple of different approaches. But a truly great single malt can be a beautiful thing as well. Both require their own unique talents. Whisky, like wine, has terroir. VDC's whiskies use raw materials and water from Nelson County. They're barrel-aged in Virginia, making it a true Virginia whisky, distilled in Virginia with Virginia resources. This is whisky without the "e" folks.

"To us bourbon is kind of a swear word, and really defining the difference between those categories and those types of whiskies...To us it's who we are. We're rooted in that tradition...owning it and making it ours. Our process is here stateside as an American whisky. It's a blend of old world meets new world, and kind of our spin on it." ---Ian Thomas

Climate also plays a huge part in terroir. Whisky distilled here will taste different from one created on Islay or in the Scottish Highlands. Barrels are made of wood which is porous. They expand, contract, and breathe with every change in temperature and humidity, affecting the maturation process and taste. Climate data sensors live in every warehouse and minute information is constantly collected. The more data you collect, the more you learn the effects of climate, honing those a bit better to the maturation process. What does it mean to have a background in yeast? What is Ian's favorite part of the fermentation process? Give a listen!

Next up we speak with Brand Director Marlene Steiner about more "Front of House" subjects like cocktails, distillery events, community initiatives, and of course The Virginia Whisky Experience Tour, a hands-on interactive educational foray into the origins of whisky right here in Nelson County. My favorite part? The antique alcohol still a generous neighbor donated to be a part of the tour. One very similar in appearance to ones mentioned by my Nelson County born-and-bred granddaddy. Another part? A presentation on the effects of Hurricane Camille which devastated this county back in 1969 and actually changed agricultural regulations, causing Nelson to become wet in more ways than one.

Another natural disaster, forest fire, threatened the distillery just last Fall, but thankfully first responders were able to save the business. Nothing was damaged and neighbors stepped up, allowing firefighters onto their property to backburn, minimizing damage. VDC responded by creating their Nelson County First Responders Single Barrel, partnering with local coffee roaster Trager Brothers on this project, and all proceeds were donated to Nelson County First Responders.

"We were just really happy to give back a little bit of love to our first responder teams...we had so many local teams that were on site very quickly...you just think about the amount of energy these people put in because they're all volunteers and so they're spending time away from family and friends. They're so community driven...we're really just so grateful for that...just their support and everything they did to help us...what better way to give back...we make whisky and we make good whisky." ---Marlene Steiner

The response was so great VDC now plans to do a charity cask every year. Taking potential disaster as an opportunity for community growth. What's better than that? Another part of caring? Sustainability. Spent grain from the distillery is given to Early Dawn dairy farm for use as feed. Extra CO2, a natural part of the brewing process, is funneled out naturally. An extra step not many other distilleries take. Another aspect is the Partner Program, working with local wineries and cideries like Grace Estate and Potter's Craft Cider (a past podcast guest) to trade barrels, which add flavors to whiskey, cider, and wine depending on the barrel used.

As Brand Director, Marlene creates awareness, enthusiasm, and loyalty for the product. She helped construct the Visitor Center, the tour, works in product development, and keeps the team well-staffed and well-educated on hospitality. It shows. Unlike some places, this isn't a pour and go operation. You always feel welcomed and very knowledgable about what you're drinking. VDC is working to make sure their story gets out even if you're enjoying VDC in Boston or Chicago. Why is story important to a brand? What ABC restrictions have caused VDC to create amazingly creative cocktails, furthering the reach of their brand? Listen to learn more.

When the VDC single malt is finally ready in 2019? I'll be there. Virginia Distillery Company is always an enjoyable, unique experience. From CEO Gareth Moore all the way down to every Guest Experience Associate you can see the enthusiasm and passion for their product. Everyone is friendly and eager to show you why the VDC Virginia Highland Malt Whisky is stellar. You can find Virginia Highland Malt Whiskey at your local ABC store or at the distillery. Get a gorgeous gift basket with a rose gold shaker. Grab some friends and join The Cask Society. Try the whisky-infused chocolates at Gearhart's (a past podcast guest). Stay tuned for their Whisky Tiki event later this summer. But not before listening to this fantastic episode. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

Wine Work. With Oysters. Welcome to Episode 76 and a laugh-filled conversation over wine with siblings Tim Gorman and Sarah Gorman of Cardinal Point Winery. Cardinal Point was the first winery The Hubby and I visited upon moving to Charlottesville a decade ago. Their November Oyster Roast remains my favorite food-related event. One which constantly inspires my food writing, including this humorous anecdote which continues to get reactions and comments even years later.

The seeds for what would become Cardinal Point began way back in 1986 when their dad, Paul Gorman, put in his first grapes, selling them statewide. Tim and Sarah tended vines as teenagers with Tim taking over as Vineyard Manager shortly thereafter. In 2002 Paul's dream of an established winery was realized at a time when there were no others nearby. Veritas and Afton followed soon after and the seeds of a true agritourism destination on Route 151 in Nelson County were planted. Cardinal Point is a true family-owned business, a family which includes the fine folks hired to keep the vines shipshape. Folks who work tirelessly to grow the best product. Many of whom have been with Cardinal Point for years.

"The idea of opening our own winery was attractive because you're stabilizing a commodity that otherwise is totally perishable. Grapes will break down the second you pick them up." ---Tim Gorman

These days Tim is not only Vineyard Manager but also Chief Winemaker, one of the few in the area who does both. As a lawyer, Sarah handles legal issues, tasting room duties, as well as managing the many events and weddings which occur onsite, including summer concerts and the incredibly popular Oyster Roast. Projects like their Wine Cooperative, plus new varieties like their Hopped Chardonnay make sure the winery stays successful.

Summer is an extremely busy time, both for events and its growing season. We walk through the seasons of a winery. What needs to happen and when. Did you know birds, deer, and squirrels threaten grapes? Such is life at a winery, essentially a grape farm. A lot is determined by weather. Praying for rain and hoping the rain stops. If you recall, 2016 was abysmal with over 40 straight days of showers. How does 2017 look? Pretty promising. Keep your fingers crossed. Knock some wood.

As recently as a few years ago, Route 151 in Nelson County was a rural route of farms, churches, and pastoral views. Now it's a tourist destination of wineries, cideries, breweries, orchards, and farms. A true agritourism mecca. Tim is one of the founders of Nelson 151, a group of business owners in the area who hope to use their strengths to not only market more efficiently but make sure development stays within reason. How important is tourism to business in Nelson County? Extremely. Small wineries don't make enough in volume to make their mark on a national level, so getting folks to come try Cardinal Point is paramount. Without agritourism, many of the farms and wineries in the area wouldn't be able to continue using their land for agriculture. Tourism dollars help the community. It's a double-edged sword certainly, but Nelson 151 realizes that, keeping it in mind as they make decisions affecting its citizens. How does the threat of a pipeline affect things? We discuss the possible ramifications.

Tasting at the winery is way better than standing in a wine shop, looking at a row of bottles, and choosing blind based on arbitrary scores which don't matter anyway. At the first sip, you immediately realize Tim's approach to winemaking is a little different. When he heard a lot of folks couldn't handle a bold tannic red, he worked to develop a softer one that's easier to drink and tastes wonderful. His Rockfish Red is a lovely blend of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and goes great with burgers and pizza. It's a European approach with wine as a dinner beverage rather than a sacred only-to-be-corked at special events rare precious jewel. How did he develop his newest creation, a hopped chardonnay? Something that's never been done before? Sure it sounds gimmicky. But it's also extraordinary. A wine expert recently declared it, "A great expression of chardonnay." The highest compliment.

"I buy by the numbers just like anybody else...but now the numbers are silly...they're just everywhere...and it usually means you're getting this boring supermarket 92." ---Tim Gorman

Tim's process is fascinating a great combination of science, inspiration, inventiveness, and using what you already have readily available. Working with the land rather than against it. This is a Virginia-based winery with Virginia-grown grapes with Virginia-based winemakers who can explain why the 2016 tastes different than the 2015. No big corporations or importing done here. No big investors wondering why there isn't more consistency year to year. None of the typical white-to-red lineups of varietals like you see at corporate wineries. Again, working with terroir rather than catering to big corporate demands.

"That's definitely the difference between an Ernest and Julio Gallo and a Cardinal Point. If we can develop a wine simply because it gives us more tank space? We'll do that." ---Sarah Gorman

What does it take to run a family-owned business? Does every family dinner turn into a board meeting? How do they relate to the slew of awards Cardinal Point has garnered, most recently the 2017 Monticello Cup? How big a factor is terroir? How does Virginia terroir differ from other regions? Is it recognizable as a region? Why do so many ex-punk rockers now work in food? What is the story behind the statement, "These are my credentials," which appears on every bottle? We cover it all.

"One thing we we're not going to do is re-enter the 2014 Clay Hill Cab Franc which did very well...we'll enter it for one season...we're trying to win a medal to help us sell that wine...but we're not trying to just keep getting awards." ---Tim Gorman

"You're here to taste. You tell me which one you'd give a medal to...When you come into our winery, the last thing I want you hear you ask about is the medal...I want you to taste...if the Green is your gold medal, then buy it. It's your palate, everybody tastes (wine) differently." ---Sarah Gorman

"They do change each year...this is farming...we're dry farmers, we don't even have irrigation...vintages matter, especially in Virginia...it matters in the good regions...what I like is I don't have to be beholden...I don't have to be that person making Budweiser that has to be the same every time." ---Tim Gorman

We recorded this conversation in the Cardinal Point farmhouse which is available to rent. Did I mention the saltwater pool? We talk beer, hops, and even delve into the subtleties of Charlottesville roller derby. Not only is Cardinal Point the first winery I visited, it's also the first one I've talked to on the podcast! This conversation was dear to me not just because Green is my favorite summer wine but because my Critzer family originated and flourished right there on Route 151 where Cardinal Point is located. So traveling there felt like going home in more ways than one. Enjoy this episode then crack open a bottle or two of Green or your other favorite wine from Cardinal Point. We sure did! Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Rent a Farmhouse - It's at a winery. It has a saltwater pool. What more reason do you need?
• Green - It's my favorite varietal at Cardinal Point. So much so I wrote about it.
• The Wild Vine - We discuss Todd Kliman's book and how it relates to Virginia terroir.
• Burnley Vineyard - All of us blanked on the name of this fantastic vineyard near Gordonsville! I blame the wine.
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.

Pig Work. Welcome to Episode 75 and a conversation with folks who aren't just giving lip service to food raised in a pure, unprocessed manner, but walking the walk by carrying on a respected tradition of raising heritage Ossabaw and Berkshire pigs humanely in a natural, sustainable way. In a setting that wouldn't have looked unusual hundreds of years ago. Meet Clay and Linda Trainum of Autumn Olive Farms! The Autumn Olive tree and the farm's namesake is native to Virginia, very edible, and high in lycopene. Pigs and goats happen to love it. When Linda and Clay re-established his father's land back in 2008 it was covered in it. The solution? Put Boerbok goats to work. Boerbok is a great and healthy meat source in addition to being a terrific lawnmower and the Trainums used this natural brush clearer to not only free up land but also as the very first source of revenue for the farm by selling their clearing services as well as the meat. Resourcefulness at work and a great example of farming ingenuity.

"If you can raise some cows and you can pay your taxes every year, you're a successful farmer. I don't accept that."

The farm's origins are rooted in a need for a healthier way of living. The Trainum's house in North Carolina was completely overrun with mold, making every family member sick. Linda started to read up on healthy eating. Her veterinary technician background led her to study more sustainable meat sources. She discovered pigs raised outdoors have the second-highest levels of Vitamin D in the world behind cod liver oil. Then a chance presentation of Ossabaw pigs at the Frontier Culture Museum led the Trainum's to purchase their first breeding sows.

The farm is a glorious example of natural breeding methods, with entire ecosystems dedicated to the craft. My tour, on the back of an ATV no less, saw me rumbling through pastures of ryegrass as well as pine and oak forest. These are for foraging, and so the pigs can keep cool during humid summers. In the winter months, shelters are moved to sunny areas to capture south-facing light. The pigs move about as they please, even banding together to move 500-pound shelters if it's not to their liking. Good quality hay grown on-site is harvested for food and bedding. Everything is done naturally. No heat lamps here. Farrowing is all natural as well, which means newborn piglets are more susceptible to nature's cycles including weather and hungry, sometimes rabid foxes which are becoming more prevalent thanks to global warming.

"I think history is going to judge us harshly...our grandchildren are going to look back and say what was wrong with you all that you so willingly partook of that product raised that way. And it won't be defensible. It's not a defensible position. You don't have to spend much time with pigs to realize there's a serious responsibility."

What struck me? There are close neighbors surrounding this farm. If you've done any traveling in our region, you've smelled an industrial hog farm, probably from miles away. Not so at Autumn Olive where the smell is minimal and the neighbors not only stay on the lookout for wanderers but complain about closing the windows in winter because they can't hear the pigs. And yes, some of the pigs are pets. Sparkles is official Tour Director. But this is a working farm and understanding that is an important part.

Raising heritage pigs is certainly an honorable method, but also very time consuming, involving more steps as well as a lot more money. Which makes it more expensive. Currently Autumn Olive only sells whole animals to restaurants. And while that can seem a detriment, it's actually a plus because chefs understand quality and are willing to seek them out and pay for it.

"We told a chef one time, he's like, do you have pork? Well, do you serve bird? On the menu? The difference between a crow and a quail is a profound difference. Within the breeds of pigs there are profound differences…and flavor profiles and texture and mouth feel and fat composition…muscle fiber length. All of that is there."

Like any farm, Autumn Olive has seasons and labor you have to do depending on the weather so the pigs can stay happy and healthy. This is a family business, and sons Logan, Luke, and Tyler are committed to continuing the legacy. The day I visited they were headed out for an overnight Maryland delivery. On a heritage pig farm, the work never ends.

"The seasons certainly have a bearing on what we do and how we do it...in the summer months pigs usually eat less...the meat is a little bit different in the warmer weather...it's kind of a slower pace...and we're managing issues of clean water and temperature-related things."

You can find Autumn Olive products all over our region, including places like Threepenny Café and JM Stock Provisions. It's good stuff people. Forget "The Other White Meat" this pork is colorful with beautiful marbling and an extraordinary flavor. This is pork with TERROIR. You can taste what these pigs have been eating: autumn olive branches, acorns, walnuts, as well as many other naturally-occurring plants on the farm. A true Virginia pork, bred here, on food sources from here.

"Healthy food sells. But delicious really sells."

How can you be sure the product you're buying is natural and sustainable? How does Autumn Olive do what they do while making sure the restaurant can offer their product at a fair price point? We talk about it. How did the Trainums meet? It's the ultimate meet-cute and a story you'll really enjoy.

This talk is near and dear to my heart, not only because I love pork, but Autumn Olive Farm lies a stone's throw away from my own family farm in Dooms, Virginia. As a teenager, my grandaddy would drive us out to "The Land" to show us the ground he worked for decades before moving to town to work at Dupont. To be able to revisit this area as a middle-aged woman with her own entrepreneurial spirit? Priceless. Enjoy the ambient sounds of talkative Berkshire pigs at the end of the episode! Then go get you some at several area restaurants in Charlottesville, Richmond, Maryland, and DC. Details on their website. Cheers!

SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:

• Nadjeeb Chouaf - Our very own "NaCheese" just placed THIRD IN THE WORLD at the Mondial du Fromage in Paris, becoming the first American to do so. Congratulations Nadjeeb!
• Caleb Warr - Chef Warr has left Tavola for greener pastures on Cape Cod. Are there pastures on Cape Cod? Hmmm. We wish him well, and thank him for being on the podcast!
• Lovefest Tickets! - Brian Wimer has put together an EPIC 2-day festival celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love, with many events leading up to this weekend's festival. Get your tickets, then come meet me! I'll be roaming the crowd, gathering audio, pressing the flesh, asking questions, generally being edacious.
• John Hernandez of Mi Terra Farm - This young man is doing his part to teach folks about sustainable, grass-fed beef. Walking the walk when it comes to eating healthy and helping those who can't afford it.
• Pig Tales - Did you know pigs have personalities? Learn all about eating sustainable pork, and hear the story of a beloved neighborhood pig who could recognize faces and voices. A great read!
• Foodwaze - Do you know where your food comes from? Use this website to learn!
• Help Scotty Recover - My best friend has Stage 3B colon cancer. Bills are piling up. He can't work. Can you help? Share! Donate! No amount is too small. Thank you and BIG LOVE to everyone who donated and shared the Big Love Bake Sale and Big Love Birthday! Next up? Tee shirts! Look for them soon.
• Subscribe to This Podcast. Stay Edacious! - Come on, after this episode? You know you want to. Subscribers get new episodes instantly, while non-subscribers have to wait a few hours or days depending on the iTunes gods. Never miss a chance to be edacious!
• Subscribe to Edacious News - Never miss a food event in our area! Learn about regional and national food stories so you can stay edacious!

This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.