Gus Clemens on Wine explores and explains the world of wine in simple, humorous, fun posts

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What do Americans think about wine? 5-22-2024

What wines do Americans prefer, how much are they willing to pay for it, and what are their general views about wine?

YouGov, a British market research and data analytics firm, recently surveyed 1,117 U.S. adults to gain insights. Their results are very detailed; we will give a simpler-to-digest overview. There is a plus/minus four precent margin of error. YouGov’s research gives you a ballpark idea.

Some 73% said they loved or liked white wine; 72% said the same about red wine. Rosé scored 66% in the love-like category; 63% said the same about sparkling.

Gender preferences is a slightly different question. When asked what type of wine they prefer, 56% of males and 44% of females said they preferred red, while 42% of females preferred white in contrast to only 30% of males. Roughly 14% of both sexes either did not have a preference or were not sure.

Health warnings about wine have been in the news recently. Americans apparently are not all that concerned. Some 40% asserted wine is beneficial to your health, 23% said it has no effect, and 27% were not sure. Only 11% believed wine is detrimental to health.

When asked how much you typically pay for a bottle of wine, a whopping 45% said between $11 and $20. The number goes to 65% for the $11-$40 range. Price matters. A landslide 89% said price was very important or somewhat important.

When asked if they thought they could tell the difference between a $10 bottle and a $100 bottle in a blind tasting of the same varietal, 35% said they definitely could or probably could, while 65% thought they probably could not, definitely could not, or were unsure.

When asked how often they drank wine—a question where people often low-ball their answer—only 2% said they drank wine daily. Some 11% said a few times a week or once a week; 24% said only on special occasions, and the largest cohort—38%—said they never drink wine, although they may drink other alcoholic beverages.

Tasting notes

• Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, Uruguay 2022: Intriguing tension between hints of sweetness and salinity. Very refreshing. Versatile. $9-14 Link to my review

• Famiglia Pasqua 11 Minutes Odi Et Amo Rosé Trevenezie 2022: Crisp light delight. Strawberries, citrus in an engaging bottle. $16-18 Link to my review

• Hahn Family Wines Appellation Series GSM, Arroyo Seco 2021: Classic GSM built to be an amiable palate pleaser. $18-23 Link to my review

Last round

Why do I waste energy saying “it is what it is” to someone who has no idea what it is? Wine time.

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The world has a glut of wine. In some ways, a good thing for wine buyers. With supply up and demand down, wine makers have to make sacrifices to move their product. The old seller’s adage applies: “I would rather have 50% of something than 100% of nothing.”

Maybe that higher-end, higher-quality wine of your fantasies will move into your pocketbook possibility zone. But danger also lurks. The brand that now looks like a bargain may not be exactly what initially enchanted your imagination.

Fortunately, the label must give you clues. But you have to know what to look for.

There is so much excess wine today makers are conjuring ways to use some of the glut to tempt you with a bogus bargain. A key ploy is to produce bottles with labels that look almost identical to their existing, higher-priced offerings. All seems the same, but there is one tell—the place where the fruit came from may be different from the one you think you are buying.

Example: a wine labeled “Sonoma County” typically is a reassurance of quality, and indicates all—or at least 75% of the grapes—come from that premier grape growing region. When the wine label reads “California,” that is something else. The wine could have come from anywhere in California.

If the label says “American,” 25% of it could be imported from overseas. Federal records indicate 68 million gallons of imported wine—most of it bulk wine—came into the U.S. in 2022, compared to 51 million gallons in 2020.

You will most-often encounter vague designations in supermarket wines and discount wine stores. Many supermarkets sell wines under their “exclusive” labels. What that really means is the supermarket buys “shiners”—wine bottles without labels—and puts their “exclusive” label on the bottle. Two supermarkets can sell exclusive wines that came from exactly the same maker off the same bottling line. The only difference is the label.

This is not a scam. If you like the wine, great. Enjoy away. Makers of shiners can make very acceptable wine. The wine may be a commodity wine made in huge amounts to a certain flavor profile concocted from bulk wine, but millions of people enjoy those wines. You can, too, with no shame.

But if you always wanted to try the genuine article of your vino dreams, carefully examine the label. If a deal is too good to be true, it usually is not.

Last round

The CEO of IKEA has just been elected prime minister of Sweden. Currently, he is assembling his cabinet. Wine time.

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This is the final episode of our adventure into the world of wine descriptors.

• Spicy: Various grapes contribute spice—syrah, zinfandel, petite sirah, malbec, grenache, gewürztraminer, riesling, and viognier typically are cited as being spicy. Oak barrels also impart spice. Common spice flavors are cinnamon, pepper, anise, clove, nutmeg, ginger, and mint. For most sippers, a slice of spice is a nice thing to encounter in the wine.

• Dry, Semi-dry, Sweet: Refers to the amount of residual sugar. In broad terms, in dry wine, all the sugar was converted to alcohol. In sweet wine there is residual sugar. Semi-dry falls in between. These are the general terms. Still wines and sparkling wines have different nomenclatures and more nuanced divisions. In still wines, going from driest to sweetest, the wine can be bone-dry, dry, off-dry, medium sweet, and sweet. In sparkling wines, going from driest to sweetest, the wine can be brut nature, extra brut, brut, extra-dry, dry, demi-sec, and doux. Sweetness often is the first characteristic you notice when tasting wine.

• Final thoughts: Wine descriptors—and their fellow partners in crime, wine scores—are inherently, patently imperfect, sometimes ridiculous. But we live in a chaotic world assaulted by a hurricane of choices. We rely on others to help separate the wheat from the chaff all the time. Recommendations from family and friends for all manner of things. Book reviews. Movie reviews. Restaurant reviews. Customer reviews.

And so it goes with wine. Can written words perfectly describe the experience you will have with a specific wine? Of course not, and every reputable wine writer knows that and will be quick to tell you. In the best case, the words entertain you and give you some assistance as you face a wall of wine choices at your wine store, supermarket, or online seller. Imperfectly passing on knowledge and experience is the skill set that makes us humans.

Tasting notes

• Gillmore Collezione del Maule, Valle del Loncomilla, Chile 2020: Blend of four Italian grape varieties grown in Chile. Exceptionally smooth, sophisticated, delicious. $18-20 Link to my review

• Van Duzer Dijon Blocks Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Van Duzer Corridor, Oregon 2021: A bit more assertive darker fruits than other efforts, it also has impressive complexity and layers. $57-65 Link to my review

• Stags’ Leap Winery The Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown Stags Leap District 2018: Consistent winner from one of Napa’s most hallowed districts by one of Napa’s premier makers. $90-115 Link to my review

Last round

A little known rule is that all employees of IKEA have to stand in a line in the meeting room before every shift. Some assembly is always required. Wine time.

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Continuing our adventure in the world of wine descriptors.

• Tannin: Tannins come from grape skins, seeds, and oak barrels. Tannin creates puckery, black tea-like sensations in your mouth that some people hate and others love. Tannic wines do well with fat-rich red meat because tannins cut through the fat coating your tongue, enhancing the beef experience. Tannins also are key components of wine built for aging, as they preserve the wine. Many tannic wines—Italian nebbiolo, for instance—are held in bottle for years before release to allow the tannins to mellow.

J. Nathan Matias

All tannins are not the same. Tannins are mostly characteristic of red wines rather than whites because most tannins come from the skins, stems, and seeds. White wines spend very little time on the skins, stems, and seeds, while red wines can spend many weeks in contact. When tannins are harsh or aggressively drying, they are bad. When they are chewy or rustic, they can be good depending on your palate. When they are silky, integrated, smooth, round, lush, velvety, or supple, they are good, even if the wine writer cannot really tell you difference between round and lush or smooth and silky.

Dusty tannins are a special, Janus-faced category. Generally, dusty refers to tannic density. Dusty tannins may provide a pleasing, refined background to fruit. Or they can be a drying, powdery note that steals flavor at the finish. Like many wine descriptors, “dusty” can just be a wine writer throwing adjectives against the wall.

• Structure: The balance of tannin, acidity, and alcohol, plus fruit and sugar level constitute a wine’s structure. The combination of those elements determine the overall feel in the mouth and perception of the wine. Wines that lack structure are thin, flabby, disjointed, too tannic or too acidic. It is possible for a wine to have too much structure, usually because it is too tannic and out of balance with acidity and alcohol. Good structure, on the other hand, is a characteristic of high quality wines. Balanced structure allows wine to evolve over time in the bottle and develop more depth and complexity.

Tasting notes

• Corvo Irmàna Frappato Red Wine 2019: Bright, light, fresh, fruity, delicate. Fun, easy drinker will please those put off by heavier, more tannic/serious red wines. $15-17 Link to my review

• Hope Family Wines Treana Sauvignon Blanc, California 2022: Smooth, very approachable; retains food-friendly acidity. $18-20 Link to my review

• Project M Anicca Oregon Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills AVA 2022: Nicely structured, elegant with savory core from prime region for quality chardonnay. $40 Link to my review

Last round

Why are frogs so happy? They eat whatever bugs them. Wine time.

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In our continuing investigation into the world of wine descriptors, we move to common terms.

• Acidity: Key component of wines that “clean the palate” and affect how wine looks, tastes, and ages. The two main acids are tartaric and malic. Hot years/climates reduce acidity. Cold years/climates increase acidity. Acidity preserves freshness and keeps wines lively—very good thing. Too much acidity stomps on fruit flavors and texture—not a good thing. In tasting notes, “good acidity” often means it pairs well with food. Acidity especially is important in white wines and sweet wines.

• Ripe: Grapes achieve ideal level of maturity. Less-mature grapes produce lighter wines with less flavor, more acidity; over-mature grapes produce high-alcohol wines with less acidity. Ripe is the desired spot in the middle. Picking at perfect ripeness can be the most significant decision a winemaker makes in the vineyard.

• Rustic: Describes hearty, earthy wines. Petite sirah and carignane celebrate being called rustic. Rustic tannins can be coarse and chewy, which your palate may or may not love. On the other hand, if an expensive Burgundy is rustic, that is not a good thing. Wine cannot have silky, sophisticated tannins and be rustic at same time. If you like pleasure with a dollop of danger, rustic is good. If you prefer Maurice Chevalier over Arnold Schwarzenegger, rustic may not be the way to go.

• Round: Generally, means wines that have lost youthful, astringent tannins through bottle aging and/or oak aging. Also describes young wines with soft tannins and low acidity. Associated with terms like velvety, creamy, plush, buttery. Generally, a good thing. Unless you lust for rustic.

• Soft: Round, fruity, low in acidity, no aggressive tannins, easy to drink, maybe with a hint of sweetness. Often fruit-forward. Round often is associated with merlot and mass market, supermarket wines.

• Earthy: Little girl with a curl—when good, very good indeed; when bad, horrid. Good: fresh soil, minerals, vegetation, intense expression of the land. Bad: barnyard after cows finish eating. The chemical compound geosmin—a Greek name that translates as “earth smell”—is thought responsible, but the term is not about dirt, rather complexity and depth. Often is referenced in pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, and syrah.

Tasting notes

• Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Sr. Family Estate Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley 2021: Popular, versatile mainstay from Krug, a fabled Napa maker. 20-25 Link to my review

• Van Duzer Bieze Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley 2021: Refined delight; congenial pleasure on the palate. $65 Link to my review

Last round

Why do Native Americans disdain rain dances in April? Because April showers bring Mayflowers. Wine time.

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In our investigation of wine descriptors, we continue our plunge into wine’s weird words.

• Petrol/diesel: Associated with riesling. Aroma is not the smell you get filling your farm truck, but does suggest diesel or gasoline. It is caused by good-thing antioxidant TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene if you are a chemist geek), which forms from beta carotene and lutein as riesling ages. It is a distinctive, distinguishing marker for those identifying riesling in blind tastings. It also blows away after exposure to air.

• Burnt rubber: Associated with syrah, also with South African wines. South Africans took umbrage when an English critic used the descriptor. “We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber,” averred a spokesperson for Wines of South Africa. Current descriptor preferred by wineries for this nose note: “sun-dried tomatoes.”

• Tar: Associated with nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) and syrah—means aromas and flavors reminiscent of tar. Who eats or smells tar to find out? Some claim it describes a mix of meat and black pepper. Remember, smell is at least 75% of taste, so the “taste” of tar really is a slight—and slight is key—aroma of tar.

• Pencil shavings: Associated with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot: hints of cedar or eucalyptus wood. Cigar box also associated with this nose nuance. Think of sharpening the #2 in the third grade. It is a mineral smokiness similar to graphite. Engendered either from tannins in the wine or the wine’s exposure to oak during the winemaking process, to put a fine point on it.

Tasting notes

• Benziger Family Winery Chardonnay 2022: Sonoma chard—lively acidity frames citrus, apple, and stone fruit. $14-16 Link to my review

• Monteabellón Tempranillo 5 Meses en Barrica, Ribera del Duero 2020: Easy-going tempranillo effort with refreshing acidity. $14-16 Link to my review

• Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2021: Excellent dry riesling from fabled Austrian wine producing area. Very focused with excellent acidity and complexity. $20-25 Link to my review

• La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27 Link to my review

• Masciarelli Marina Cvetić Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S. Martino Rosso Riserva DOC 2019: Good complexity. Nicely evolves in the glass presenting an engaging experience. $29-38 Link to my review

• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Assertive Napa cab that combines some earthiness with elegance. $50-70 Link to my review

Last round

My son told my husband he got a part in his school play and he would be playing a man who has been happily married for 25 years. My husband replied: “Maybe next time you’ll get a speaking part.” Wine time.Links to my reviews

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Continuing our investigation of wine descriptors. Last week we noted wine shares the same molecules as familiar, pleasant tastes and smells. But what about all those weird descriptors?

Linnaea Mallette

• Barnyard/sheep butt: Associated with pinot noir, particularly from Burgundy but also sometimes from elsewhere. Believe it or not, it is an earthy scent often associated with quality—and it goes away with decanting or swirling in your glass. It should not be confused with “barnyard” associated with brettanomyces (brett), a yeast that invades wineries and can spoil wine (more about that later). So, there is good barnyard/sheep butt and bad barnyard/sheep butt. You want wine to be simple and easy?

• Farmyard: Associated with aged chianti. Kinder, gentler than “barnyard.” It describes earthy and vegetal undertones some wines develop. Like many such terms, used in admiration or deploration, depending upon the critic and the wine.

• Band-Aid: Smell associated with tempranillo and pinotage, usually means there is bit of brett (brettanomyces)—a yeast usually considered a flaw, but also considered a plus by some when it only slightly influences the wine. Different folks, different strokes. It mostly is associated with red wines. In low concentrations, it adds a spicy, leathery note. In higher concentrations, it ruins the wine.

• Wet wool/damp straw: Associated with chenin blanc. The aroma resembles lanolin, a fatty substance secreted by a sheep’s skin. The descriptor often occurs alongside mentions of honey, pears, lemon. Chenin blanc may be world’s most versatile grape—capable of almost any style. It is superb in the Loire Valley of France. Want upscale? Ask for “Vouvray,” chenin blanc’s greatest appellation. Swirl, inhale, wistfully comment on its whisper of wet wool wafting amid notes of wild honey and lemons.

• Cat pee: Associated with sauvignon blanc, particularly from cooler climate makers in New Zealand and France-Sancere. It arises from natural compounds called pyrazines that give sauv blanc its grassy, herbaceous notes. When weak, sometimes called “lantana bush.” When stronger, “cat pee.” Again, a symbol of quality that will blow away with some air. So don’t meow. Say: “oui, oui, Sancere cat pee is for me.”

Tasting notes

• Wine By Joe Pinot Noir, Oregon 2021 is wonderfully delicious, affordable Oregon pinot noir. Congenial example of the impressive quality of Oregon pinot noir. $19 Link to my review

• Auntsfield Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Southern Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022: Checks all the boxes you want to check on a New Zealand sauv blanc. $17-22 Link to my review

Last round

What do you get if you divide the circumference of a bowl of ice cream by its diameter? Pi a la mode. Wine time.

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Using words to describe wine is fraught with peril and leaves wine writers exposed to ridicule. Adapting a line from Martin Mull: writing about wine is like dancing about architecture. And we do it anyway.

Many terms about wine tastes and smells are easy to understand, delicious to imagine.

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, plum, peach, pear, apricot, cranberry, lemon, lime, blackberry, watermelon. We know those tastes and more from fruit we eat, and we can perceive them in the wine we drink.

Then, there are problematic descriptors. Minerals: like sucking on a rock. Who does that? Leather: do winemakers drop cowhides into their fermentation tanks? Green bell pepper: wait, I thought wine was made from grapes. What are those wine snobs talking about? Are they just making stuff up to appear superior to those of us who just want to sip something to complement a meal, maybe get a little buzz, maybe titillate the libido of a hot date? We visit wines terms in the next six columns.

Bradley Cooper

Let’s start with the easy flavor and aroma notes related to fruits. Grapes are fruits and share the same complex chemistry with fellow fruits. During grape fermentation chemical compounds—esters—are created that are identical or nearly identical to those found in other fruits. When a wine is said to have cherry flavor or aroma, it is just as valid to say that cherry juice has a wine flavor or aroma.

Secondary flavors spring from the winemaking process. Oak barrels impart notes from the wood. American oak tends to evoke vanilla and coconut notes, French oak hazelnut and smokiness. All oak can bring oak spice, clove, toast, chocolate depending on how the barrel is made. Oak aging, which allows a slow intake of oxygen, makes wine smoother and less astringent while it adds its flavor and aroma notes.

Tertiary flavors develop with aging, in barrel, in stainless steel, in concrete eggs, and in the bottle. Those flavors and aromas include earth, coffee, and leather. In all these cases, the flavors and aromas are caused by the same—or nearly identical—chemical compounds found in the descriptors. As with fruit descriptors, it is just as valid to say this wine has aroma notes of leather as it is to say leather has aroma notes of a wine. The molecules presenting the sensation are the same or almost the same.

We will plunge into weird wine terms the next two weeks.

Last round

Why did the cowboy get a wiener dog? Because he wanted to get a long little doggie. Wine time.

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Grapes remain the highest value fruit crop in the U.S.—estimated at $7 billion. There are a million acres of grape-bearing land in the U.S.—wine grapes, table grapes, and raisin grapes.

The U.S. produces some 900 million gallons of wine, 12 percent of worldwide production. There are some 11,000 wineries in the U.S. located in all 50 states. A note: numbers are imprecise because of vagaries of agricultural reporting and time frames, but are representative. The National Association of American Wineries is the general source for this column.

Stan Shebs

California dominates U.S. wine, making 85 percent of domestic wine—685 million gallons. Washington State is second with 36 million gallons. New York is third, 29 million gallons. Those three have long been dominant. The next two states are interesting.

Oregon is number four with 11 million gallons, followed by Texas with more than four million gallons. Michigan, North Carolina, Virginia, Illinois, and Pennsylvania round out the top 10, each with two-to-less than three million gallons.

Oregon has the second-most wineries in the U.S.—nudging past Washington State (depending on counting date)—but Oregon makes only one-third as much wine as its northern neighbor. Oregon production is centered in the Willamette Valley where world-class pinot noir is made. We often think of the Pacific Northwest as a temperate rain forest. True west of the Cascades, but east of the mountains is high desert—and that is where grapes are grown in both Oregon and Washington State.

Texas also grows wine surprises. Its wine industry surges, at least doubling in the past decade. It has the fourth-most wineries in the nation, approaching 400, which closes in on New York State. The economic impact in the state approaches $4 billion, a virtual tie with New York State for second place. California dominates with an economic impact of more than $70 billion.

Like Oregon and Washington, the Texas vineyard region defies stereotype. Texas grape growing centers on the High Plains of western Texas. Like Oregon-Washington, this is high, near-desert with elevations of 3,000-4,000 feet. Sandy loam soil and brisk winds discourage pests, mildew and rot. Large diurnal shifts engender ripeness in the day and acidity at night. These are classic characteristics of superior wine vineyards.

Bottom line: wine is wonderful accelerant to bonhomie and beloved accoutrement to a meal. It also is a major economic force filled with surprises.

Last round

I came home and saw my wife had been on Ebay the whole day. If she’s still there tomorrow, I will have to lower the price. Wine time.

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For Christians, the coming days are a transition from the promise of Christmas to the time of fulfillment of Easter.

Jesus’s first reported miracle—the wedding feast at Cana—and his last miracle, at the Last Supper, involved wine. Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox, and Greek Orthodox churches include wine in every celebration. Viewed differently theologically, Episcopalians and Lutherans also include wine in their services. Jews use wine in such celebrations as Passover.

© Jorge Royan / http://www.royan.com.ar / CC BY-SA3.0

So, what is the story? Can you use “just any old wine” on the altar or seder meal? Heavens, no. There are strict canonical rules governing “fruit of the vine and work of human hands.” Let’s explore.

According to Roman Catholic canon law, sacramental “wine must be natural, made from grapes of the vine, and not corrupt.” Eastern Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Jewish rules are similar.

What does “not corrupt” mean? Does adding sulfites to preserve wine constitute corruption? Generally, no—sulfites occur naturally in all wine. What about adding more? Without sulfites, white wines in particular have a shorter shelf life. That is real problem for altar wines often stored for months or longer. Thus, blessed be sulfites.

How about adding spirit alcohol to prevent souring or spoilage? Add away as long as the spirit is distilled from grapes (grape brandy), is added during fermentation, and the alcohol level of the final product does not exceed 18 percent. Follow the rules, peace be with you. If congregants drink from a common cup, the risk of transmitting sickness is significantly reduced with fortified wine.

General notes:

• Sacramental wine is different from consumer wine. Different labeling. Different licensing. Different federal and state taxes. That is why wine shops and liquor stores do not carry the product, and why altar wine is not sold to the general public except in California.

The general public can buy wine made to altar wine standards, but those will be labeled and taxed as a general consumer product. Typically, the label on such wine might read something like: “Approved for altar use.”

• High alcohol is not required of altar wine. This misconception flows from popularity of Angelica-style wine. Angelica is 18 percent alcohol, the highest permitted by Catholic canon law. Angelica also is popular because it tastes fruity and sweet in small sips.

• Sacramental wine production was permitted during Prohibition. Sacramental wine sales increased from two million gallons to three million gallons in first two years of Prohibition. Probably not caused by increased number of communicants at Mass services.

Last round

At home, I am  treated like God. I am ignored until someone wants something. Wine time.

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