Did you know that at Carlisle Circus in North Belfast sits a former church building which is on a World Monuments watch list that once featured other iconic sites such as the Great Wall of China and the Taj Mahal? 

Well, it’s true. Carlisle Memorial Methodist Church serves as a sober reminder of the Belfast’s architectural legacy and its troubled past. Designed in the Gothic Revival style by noted architect WH Lynn and completed in 1875, the church was home to one of the largest Methodist congregations in Belfast. The sandstone and limestone exterior of the building was renovated in 1966, but the church ceased to be used as a place of worship by 1980, a consequence of the declining congregation and its location at a major interface between Catholic and Protestant populations.

At the heart of one of the most troubled parts of Belfast, the congregation shrank rapidly during the late 1960s and 1970s. The church trustees sold the adjacent Church Halls in the late 1970s and finally closed the church in the 1980s.
Since then, Carlisle Memorial has been subject to both renovation and rejuvenation from Belfast Buildings Trust and I was delighted when they reached out to me with the idea of creating an episode together for the Historical Belfast Podcast. The Trust introduced me to Emily Brando from Germany who has been carrying out extensive research on the history of the church, and I began by asking her to explain how exactly she came to be involved in researching a church building in Belfast…

So, having heard from Emily about the remarkable backstory of Carlisle Memorial Church I decided to pay the building a visit for myself to find out what’s going on there at present, but also what the future holds for the site. I was met there by Cara Jones who is the Project and Engagement Officer for the Belfast Buildings Trust and I began by asking her to give me sense of the baron years at Carlisle Memorial since the 1980s… 

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On the outskirts of East Belfast is a house that might be considered as one of the most important houses in modern Irish history; Craigavon House. 
Built for James Craig senior in 1870 to the designs of the Waterford-born architect Thomas Jackson it was once a glorious mansion but now sits in a state of semi-dereliction off the Holywood Road.

For me, Craigavon House evokes the imagery of the Home Rule crisis in Ulster, whether that be the unveiling of Edward Carson as the leader of Unionism in September 1911 on the lawns outside, or whether that be the footage of Carson reading the text of the Ulster Solemn League & Covenant from the steps outside to assembled journalists in September 1912, or indeed the audacious gunrunning operation by the Ulster Volunteers in April 1914 which was planned and executed from the Billiard Room of this house. This place acted as a nerve-centre for Unionist’s resistance to home rule in Ireland.

However, its history goes back much further than 1911 and I’m very grateful to have been shown around this wonderful house by Carol Walker – Director of the Somme Association – and I began by asking her about the origins of the house…

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On the evening of 23 March 1922, in the context of a bloody sectarian conflict that had been raging for almost two years, Owen McMahon locked up his pub on Ann Street with the assistance of his bar manager Edward McKinney. The Capstan was one of several pubs owned by Owen McMahan in Belfast, the others included the International at the corner of Donegall Street, the Century on Garfield Street, and the Great Eastern on the Newtownards Road in the east of the city.

McMahon and McKinney made their way towards the Antrim Road and to Kinnaird Terrace where McKinney was living with the McMahon family who had tea together before retiring to bed for the night. As they slept, loyalist gunmen posing as police officers sledgehammered their way into the house before gathering together the eight male occupants in the parlour room where they were chillingly advised “you boys say your prayers”. The gunmen opened fire murdering Owen McMahon, his three sons Thomas, Frank and Patrick, as well as Edward McKinney the bar manager. His other son, Bernard, survived the initial shooting but later died of his injuries on 2 April. Such was the horrific scene at Kinnaird Terrace that an ambulance man collapsed with shock on his arrival at the house. ‘The McMahon Murders’, as the incident became known, had ‘shocked almost the entire world’ according to Joe Devlin MP in the House of Commons who went on to quote from the pages of the Belfast Telegraph which reported the incident as ‘the most terrible assassination that has yet stained the name of Belfast’.

In retaliation for these and other Belfast murders, the IRA assassinated the former head of the British Army, Field Marshal Sir Henry Wilson, and a subsequent British ultimatum to the Irish government sparked the first salvos of the Irish Civil War days later. The reluctance of the unionist Belfast government to pursue loyalist killers drove the rift between Northern Ireland’s two main communities even deeper, laying the foundations for the Troubles at the end of the twentieth century.

For this edition of the Historical Belfast I’ve been speaking to Ed Burke, Assistant Professor at University College Dublin about his latest book Ghosts of a Family where he has expertly uncovered the likely murderer of the McMahons in a case that has remained unsolved for over 100 years.

I began by asking him what it was that attracted him to this topic as a subject for his new book…

Buy Ghosts of a Family here.

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More Stories from Belfast City Cemetery is the latest addition to Tom Hartley’s ‘Written in Stone’ series of books that use the story of each of Belfast’s cemeteries to explore the dynamic history of our city and its people. From Catholic to Protestant to Muslim and Jew, from the great and the good to the poor and the destitute, each grave has multiple stories to tell. Since the publication of the previous edition of his Belfast City Cemetery book in 2014, Tom Hartley has continued to research the graves and the stories connected to them. 

The new edition looks at further stories that tell the history of Belfast from the political strife of internment and conflict related deaths to those who lost their lives in industrial accidents in its shipyards and linen mills. It is the story of a dynamic city shaped by many fascinating and remarkable people.

Tom Hartley is, arguably, one of those fascinating and remarkable people himself.

He is perhaps best known for his political activism spanning over 50 years which saw him serve as General Secretary and the National Chairperson of Sinn Fein before being elected for the party as a City Councillor in 1993 and going on to be the city’s Lord Mayor from 2008-2009. 

In his spare time, however, Tom pursues his love of history and is one of Belfast’s foremost public historians delivering tours and authoring books which highlight the importance of our burial sites as a repository of the political, social and economic history of Belfast.

Tom is supremely wise and endlessly witty – an absolute pleasure to sit down and talk history with. We met at the James Connolly Visitor Centre on the Falls Road, and I began by asking him about his first memories of the Belfast City Cemetery…

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If any street, area, or location were to symbolise the rampant neglect of our historical landscape then it surely has to be this one. North Street epitomises Belfast’s disregard for its own backstory. At the lower end is the derelict Exchange and Assembly Rooms, once Belfast’s most important building; at the other end is a huge sign on a gable end reminding passers-by that this is ‘The heart of old Belfast. Home to the City’s Oldest Buildings’. 

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For this episode I’ve decided to re-trace some of my steps from last year.

Early in 2023, while chatting with Eoin Brannigan – Editor In Chief at the Belfast Telegraph – we came up with a plan for a series of articles to feature in the newspaper. The series was directly inspired by Donal Fallon’s brilliant Three Castles Burning book A History of Dublin in Twelve Streets. “Do you think this could be done for Belfast?” Eoin asked me. “Absolutely!” I replied, and so I got to work on it straight away by selecting an initial list of 10 streets to go away and research. The idea was not to provide a dull chronological historical description of each street, rather it was to unearth interesting and lesser-known stories of people & events associated with each street and then attempt to weave them together. The end product, it was hoped, would offer a history of Belfast from the streets – an alternative history, if you like. For me it became a voyage of discovery with every passing street, and I’m pleased to say that the voyage isn’t over because the Belfast Telegraph has committed me to another 10 articles starting later this month. Each of these articles will be repurposed as bonus podcast episodes for subscribers on Patreon – so if you haven’t checked out the Historical Belfast Patreon yet now is the time to do so!

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After a busy couple of months I’m back in the hot seat for Episode 36 and the first of 2024. Joining me for this one is Stuart Bailie. Stuart is a Belfast-based journalist and writer who has been working in the music industry since 1985, writing for the likes of NME, Mojo, Uncut, Q, Hot Press and Classic Rock. He is the author of several books including Trouble Songs: Music and Conflict in Northern Ireland which is essential reading for anyone from with part of the world with an interest in music.

Stuart’s most recent publication, however, is the subject of this episode. Terri Hooley: Seventy Five Revolutions was an opportunity for him to mark Hooley’s milestone birthday by delving into his archive of interviews and adventures to find reason in a turbulent Belfast life. 

Get a copy of Seventy Five Revolutions from No Alibis

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Just when you thought that we knew everything that there is to know about the 1916 Easter Rising, yet more perspectives continue to seep from the archives and from locations more obscure.

A 49-page document, now in the archives of the Linen Hall Library, offers a sensational eye-witness account of the Rising written in long-hand and on Gresham Hotel headed notepaper. It describes the thrilling experiences of 38 year old James Mitchell, a teacher from The Mount in east Belfast. This is his story.

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'A masterful love letter' is how one reviewer has described the latest book by the prolific Professor Feargal Cochrane. Just when you thought that no more could be written on the history of this place, you'd be wrong, because 'Belfast: The Story of a City and Its People' is a timely and welcome contribution to the past, present and future of the place that many of us call home.

I have been itching to have this chat with Feargal ever since the publisher Yale University Press got in touch about the possibility of a podcast episode with the author. And then, of course, I read the book and had so many questions that I wanted to ask.

Finally then, after a long wait, I managed to get on a call with Feargal Cochrane and here's the result...

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On 13th November last year I was on holiday in Rome, on my way to St Peter’s Square in the Vatican City, when news reached me that Dr Eamon Phoenix had passed away. I was aware that he’d been unwell, nevertheless the news left me in shock and disbelief. Eamon was in my thoughts all of that day as I explored the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. Later, I queued for admission to St. Peter’s Basilica and, once inside, I decided that I was going to say a prayer for Eamon and his family. I wouldn’t describe myself as a religious person, and those who know me will know that I’m not even from a Catholic background, but it seemed like an appropriate thing to do at the time. Because, for me, Eamon was a hero, he was everything that I wanted (and still want) to be, and for that reason this episode is very much a personal and anecdotal reflection on someone who I regard as our ‘Historian Laureate’.

*Excerpts Included from an event at Feile An Phobail on Thursday 3rd August 2023 and the Year '21 Podcast Journey from November 2022.

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