If you live with the myths in your mind, you will find yourself always in mythological situations. They cover everything that can happen to you. And that enables you to interpret the myth in relation to life, as well as life in relation to myth. - Joseph Campbell

Our guest is former pro surfer, writer, rescue and relief activist, Matt George. He is someone who helped to create and build the myths that make up surf history. For our guest, surfing became more than a sport. It became a world unto itself. A religion. A quest. An odyssey full of fables, tall tales and more..

His profile pieces elevated the standard surf magazine profile. He was not afraid to be critical. He would dive deep to get to know his subjects, spending days attached to their hips. He may not have always wrote what the surfers wanted but, he was fair and gave us, the readers an honest view into who these surfers were as people.

His commitment to surfing is something to be admired. In a world where there is so much cynicism, his earnestness and blind faith in surfing as something more than just a sport or hobby, is refreshing and inspiring.

Matt has just released a compilation of his writings in the book titled “In Deep” published by Di Angelo Publications. Matt has touted this book as an antidote to the synthetic image of surfing that is being promoted today. It’s a fun read that really captures the times they were written in but, I would also dare say, they could be something of an inspiration for younger surfers to explore the world around them.


For more information on Matt George follow him on Instagram at @mattgeorge_in_deep

To purchase his book In Deep, go to https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/in-deep



Music:
Artis: Jimmy Buffet
Song: A Pirate Looks at Forty
Album: Jimmy Buffet: Son'gs You Know by Heart

Become a supporter of this podcast: https://www.spreaker.com/podcast/swell-season-surf-radio--3483504/support.