Matt Warshaw grew up surfing in Los Angeles at a time when surf and skate culture were beginning to meet in Venice Beach and Santa Monica. After a stint as a pro surfer in the 1980s, Warshaw became the editor of Surfer magazine. In 1990, he left his editor’s post at Surfer to attend UC Berkeley, where he got his BA in History in 1993. He remained in the Bay Area, parking himself in an apartment in the Sunset District and in countless Ocean Beach barrels. As if personally expanded by all those tubes, Warshaw’s writing expanded into lengthy essays, profiles, and books—many books—among them Maverick’s: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing, Above The Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews, Photo/Stoner, Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave, Surf Movie Tonite! Surf Movie Poster Art, 1957-2005, and more. His Encyclopedia of Surfing, first released in 2003, is the most comprehensive tome of surf culture in existence, and he followed it up with 2010’s The History of Surfing, a beast of a book that makes music of Warshaw’s encyclopedic knowledge. His most recent venture is the EOS dot surf, which is an invaluable online resource for surf obsessives, and features the “Sunday Joint,” a reflective op-ed style email that Matt shoots out to subscribers every Sunday. In this episode of Soundings, Warshaw talks with Jamie Brisick about the golden days of Los Angeles, establishing a career as a historian, the value of exploring someone else’s world, the importance of preserving history, the challenge of creating a database, his first Jeff Ho board, the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and the art of writing economically.

Born in 1990 in Bangalow, Australia, not far from Byron Bay, Torren Martyn is hailed as one of the great stylists of our time, riding all manner of surfcraft, and with a special penchant for twin-fins. He’s also one of surfing’s great explorers. In 2016, he and his filmmaker pal Ishka Folkwell spent three months circumnavigating Australia in a Land Rover, riding A-grade waves and documenting their trip in the first installment of the film series Lost Track. In 2018, the duo did a similar trip around New Zealand, this time on motorcycles. In 2019, they bought a Ford Transit and drove it from Europe down to the west coast of Africa on a surf hunt. In 2022, Martyn and his partner, Aiyana Powell, bought a sailboat in Thailand and spent an entire year exploring surf breaks in and around Indonesia, culminating in the film Calypte. In this episode of Soundings, Martyn and Jamie Brisick talk about surfing in the middle of nowhere, forging a free-surfer’s path, finding clarity and direction, cultivating a cartographic mindset, gaining confidence as a sailor, his quiver, and the logistics, preparation, and knowledge that went into planning for a year at sea.

Carolyn Murphy is a supermodel, actress, and environmental advocate. Her Vogue shoot with Steven Meisel in the late 1990s launched her into a fruitful, three-decade long career. In 1998 she was named VH1/Vogue’s Model of the Year. She played Dubbie in the 1999 feature film Liberty Heights, directed by Barry Levinson. She was also one of the “Modern Muses” on the November 1999 millennium cover of American Vogue. She’s also a surfer, and moved from NYC in the late 1990s to be closer to the waves in LA. Today, Murphy is an ambassador for Surfrider, The Wellness Foundation, Animal Haven, Edible Schoolyard NY, Ocean Unite, and No More Plastic. Along with being a mom, activism is a key component in her life. In this episode, Murphy talks with Jamie Brisick about the shock of New York as a young model, the shoots that changed her career, splitting time between Costa Rica and New York, the fashion industry, performativity, the challenges of introversion, surfing, and going against the grain. 

Darrick Doerner is a big-wave surfer, tow-surfing pioneer, Hollywood stuntman, and former North Shore lifeguard. He grew up surfing in the LA area in the 1960s and ’70s, moved to Hawaii his senior year of high school, and discovered himself joyous and at peace in heavy water. Hungry for waves too big to catch manually, Doerner and his pals Laird Hamilton and Buzzy Kerbox started experimenting with personal watercraft assists in the early 1990s. Not long after, they began towing into Peahi, aka Jaws. In Hollywood, Doerner stunt-doubled for Bodhi, Patrick Swayze’s character, in 1991’s Point Break, and appeared as a stunt surfer in the 2002 James Bond film Die Another Day. In this episode of Soundings, Doerner and Jamie Brisick talk about the allure of Sunset Beach, his memorable ride at Waimea on Super Bowl Sunday in 1988, friendship, the importance of being attuned to your environment, drawing lines on giant waves, and working with Eddie Aikau.

A writer and editor from San Diego, California, Scott’s known throughout the surf sphere for his work with The Surfer’s Journal, which he edited from 1999 to 2019, and where he remains as its creative director. Hulet was drawn to words from a young age. At six, Hulet was experimenting with making his own hardbound, nail-stapled books. As a college student, Hulet became well-acquainted with the world of print publications, serving as editor for student-led literary journals and writing for magazines like Revolt In Style and Kema. In the early 1990s, before working at TSJ, he was the editor for Longboard Quarterly. He’s recently released a new book, Flow Violento, a collection of more than 30 years of his published works, focused on his lifetime spent traveling, surfing, and fishing throughout Latin America. In this episode of Soundings, Hulet talks with Jamie Brisick about lessons learned from Craig Stecyk, the virtues of reading and writing, getting to know his heroes, facing adversity, health scares, his Baja roots, and his new book.

Hailing from Encinitas, California, Ryan Burch is a goofyfoot, a shaper, a husband, a new father, a free surfer, and a free thinker. His approach to wave-riding might be described as experimental, both in the lines he draws and the surfcraft that he rides—everything from asyms to gliders to old-school twin-keeled fishes to sawed-off chunks of raw foam. Burch shaped his first board at age 20, loved it, shaped more, and soon became a leading figure in the backyard, DIY board building scene. He’s appeared in a number of surf films, among them 2010’s Stoked and Broke and 2019’s Self Discovery for Social Survival. His part in 2015’s Psychic Migrations earned him a “Best Performance” nomination in the Surfer Poll Awards. In this episode of Soundings, Burch sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the virtues of working with your hands, receiving feedback from the ocean, getting comfortable in hollow surf, G-Land, fatherhood, living with intention, entrepreneurship, and his influences.

Robert Trujillo grew up on the westside of Los Angeles, where he found music, skateboarding, and surfing at a young age. He first rose to prominence as the bassist for Suicidal Tendencies, which he played in from 1989 to 1995. He was a member of Ozzy Osbourne’s band for a number of years starting in the late ’90s. Since 2003, he’s been the bassist for Metallica. He played—and still plays—with the funk metal supergroup Infectious Grooves. A goofyfoot, he gets in the water regularly, weaving wave riding into his heavy touring schedule. In this episode of Soundings, Trujillo talks with Jamie Brisick about the moment his life as a musician changed forever, the ebbs and flows of a passion-driven career, the importance of establishing a work ethic, Metallica world tours, Ozzy Osbourne, surfing, finding inspiration, playing in front of massive crowds, and staying grounded. 

Five-time world champion Carissa Moore started surfing at age 5 with her dad in the hallowed waters of Waikiki. As an amateur, she won 11 national titles. In 2008, at the age of 16, Moore became the youngest winner of the Triple Crown of Surfing. She qualified for the WCT in 2010, and won world titles in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019, and 2021, with dozens of event wins along the way. She was the first-ever winner of the Olympic Gold Medal in women’s shortboard surfing. More recently, Moore has announced that she will be walking away from competition to devote time to family, making films, and investing energy into her charitable foundation, Moore Aloha. In this episode of Soundings, Moore talks with Jamie Brisick about her decision to step away from the tour, representing Hawaii, friendship, finding community, her proudest moments, the values (and dangers) of mimicry, and overcoming self-doubt. 

Mark Cunningham, aka The Human Fish, is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-’70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline’s barrel. Through the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Cunningham won nearly every bodysurfing event he entered. But, as Cunningham would be the first to tell you, bodysurfing is not about winning or losing. Cunningham retired from lifeguarding in 2005, at age 49. In recent years, he’s become an obsessive reefcomber, finding fins, sunglasses, watches, and other valuables on the ocean floor. He’s also become a visual artist, using his findings in sculptures and assemblages. In this episode of Soundings, Cunningham talks with Jamie Brisick about the multifarious duties of a lifeguard, scanning the impact zone, brushes with fate at Backdoor, playing in the shorebreak, the joys of retirement, Puerto Escondido, and the virtue of leading a simple life.

Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay “Playing Doc’s Games” in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and “Doc” Renneker’s pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 2015 memoir, Barbarian Days, which documented his surfing life, won the Pulitzer Prize. Beyond the surf, Finnegan has devoted much of his career to conflict reporting in regions ranging from Mexico to parts of Asia. In this episode, Finnegan talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the modern marriage of surfing and intellectualism, the importance of asking questions, writing, curiosity, outing himself as a surfer in the context of his career, Bali’s dystopian reality, the dissemination of surf culture, and how his experience as a teacher in South Africa during apartheid shaped him as a writer.