In the Drink

Sandi Skerk produces about 24,000 bottles annually, about 420 cases of each wine. All of his vineyards are farmed organically. Many of them are located directly in front of his house though he has a few that are a bit further away. His main plantings are of Vitovska, Malvasia and Terrano with smaller quantities of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and others. The Terrano grape gets its name from Terra Rossa after the iron-rich, red soil that is found in the area. Terrano, compared to its only slightly better known sibling, Refosco, has a firmer structure and crisper profile along with a stony, ferrous and mineral quality. This program has been sponsored by Fairway Market. Today’s music provided by Space Ghost.

“Oggi non sono piu ingegnere, sono vignaiolo. Pero ti rimane forse il modo di pensare e il modo di apprezzare quelle cose.”

“Today I am no longer an engineer, I am a winemaker. But the way of thinking and the appreciation have stayed with me.” [24:40]

Sandi Skerk on In The Drink

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Talia Baiocchi is the Editor in Chief of PUNCH and the author of the forthcoming book Sherry (Ten Speed Press, October 2014). She was the first-ever wine editor at Eater, a former columnist at Wine Spectator, and has written for the San Francisco Chronicle, Decanter and Wine & Spirits Magazine, among others. She has a degree in journalism and political science from New York University and has been featured in numerous publications, including Forbes as a member of the magazine’s 2013 “30 under 30” list. She lives in Brooklyn, New York. Leslie Pariseau is the Deputy Editor of PUNCH. She has written about food, drinks and people for GQ, Esquire and Saveur, among others. In her former life, Leslie worked for Momofuku Ssäm Bar, reported at the United Nations, and dropped out of grad school to become a professional drinker. She has a degree in art history from the University of Michigan and lives (immoderately) in Brooklyn, New York. This program has been sponsored by SPONSOR. Today’s music provided by Obey City.

“I think that looking through the lens of art is a really great way to see history.” [4:30]

Leslie Pariseau on In The Drink

“I hear that Drew Barrymore, even though she makes a not-so-great Pinot Grigio, has a great appreciation for wine.” [28:15]

Talia Baiocchi on In The Drink

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Katie Parla, a New Jersey native, grew up in an Italian-American restaurant family. She moved to Rome in January 2003, shortly after earning a BA from Yale University in the History of Art. She holds a sommelier certificate from Federazione Italiana Sommelier Albergatori Ristoratori (FISAR) and a master’s degree in Italian gastronomic culture from the Università degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”. In addition to culinary research and lecturing, Katie has written about food and beverage culture for The New York Times, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, The Atlantic, The National Geographic Traveller, and many more. She is also know for her travel apps, Katie Parla’s Rome and Katie Parla’s Istanbul. Tune into this episode to learn how Katie has been tracking the ever-changing food and drink culture in Rome. How did the switch to the Euro affect dining culture in Italy? Learn more about the Italian “aperitivo hour”, and what it means for drinkers. How is the Roman cocktail scene evolving? Tune in to this episode of In the Drink to find out! Thanks to our sponsor, Heritage Foods USA. Music by Obey City.

“In a sense, it was the art and architecture that attracted me to Rome, but the changing food and drink culture is what kept me there. I want to document everything that is happening now.” [4:00]

— Katie Parla on In the Drink

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Growing up on the coast of Maine, Ryan Mills-Knapp worked in restaurants during summers in high school and college during the busy tourist season. Through these summer jobs, he became passionate about food and wine, which eventually led him to his current position as beverage director of Colicchio & Sons. In 2004, after spending the summer in Maine working in restaurants, he moved to New York City to pursue his interest in the wine and spirits industry. His first job in Manhattan was as a server at Amuse, an American restaurant in Chelsea, where he helped the wine director assemble the wine list. The restaurant also hosted American Sommelier Association classes in the space, so he was able to further his knowledge of wine. He moved on to become the beverage director at chef Waldy Malouf’s Beacon Restaurant where he curated the wine selection, and was put in charge of the liquor and beer programs. At Beacon, he began his real wine education, learning about producers, vintages and styles. In 2006, he was hired as beverage manager at Jean-George Vongerichten’s Spice Market and oversaw the cocktail, beer and wine lists, before joining Drew Nieporent’s Myriad Restaurant Group as head sommelier at Corton and Tribecca Grill. Throughout his years in the restaurant industry, he met members of the Craft restaurant family. These relationships led him to join the team at Colicchio & Sons as beverage director in 2012. At the restaurant, he aspires to create a diverse and approachable wine list with selections at every price point that will appeal to both aficionados and novice wine drinkers alike. His interest in aged wines is reflected on the list as well. Mills-Knapp has traveled to more than 20 wine regions exploring the diversity of wine growing around the world. Recent trips have included Tokaji in Hungary, Greek Macedonia and Southern Styria in Austria. This program has been sponsored by Heritage Foods USA.

“When you’re young and you’re really excited about something, you feel like you need to educate everybody about it.” [11:00]

—Ryan Mills-Knapp on In The Drink

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Toro is located in the old Nabisco Factory (85 10th Avenue at 15th Street) and helmed by Co-Chef/Owners Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnett along with partners Doug Jacob and Will Malnati. South Chelsea’s incarnation of Boston’s Barcelona-style tapas bar features an eclectic menu focusing on both traditional and modern tapas, combining regional Spanish flavors and techniques with local and market-fresh ingredients. The Spanish-focused beverage program from Caitlin Doonan features a cocktail menu with a dedicated section of Gin Tonic variations like Nuestra Casa with Oxley gin, allspice and pear and Atencion Gratuita with Bols Genever gin, thyme and lavender, sherry-centric cocktails like Sherry Julep with Amontillado sherry, curaçao and mint, and others such as Verdad y Amor with tequila, hibiscus and ginger and the Rosarita’s Fire with mezcal, pomegranate and cava. The wine list emphasizes Spain and the old world, with a focus on small producers and growers, and features an extensive sherry section. Additionally, seasonal sangrias are available on tap, along with a selection of beer. Caitlin began her career as an actress, but quickly found that her energy and passion were better suited for food and wine than for the stage. Caitlin trained under some of the biggest names in wine, including Theresa Paopao, former wine director at Momofuku. As the beverage manager for Má Pêche, she designed the drinks component of Kappo, the restaurant’s renowned omakase menu, working alongside Paul Carmichael, to help earn the team at Má Pêche a spot among Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wine Restaurants of 2013. After a stint at Boston’s Market by Jean Georges, Caitlin was thrilled to join the team at Toro, where she focuses on varieties from Spain and the old world, with an emphasis on small producers and growers. This program has been sponsored by Many Kitchens. Today’s music

“I think for so long people wrote off Spanish wine, so now people are saying ‘no, we’re going to focus on quality not quantity’.” [19:15]

Caitlin Doonan on In The Drink

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Born and raised in the Detroit area of Michigan, Alexander took his first restaurant job nearby at Morels a Michigan Bistro in Bingham Farms. While his initial motivation was to pay for college, he found he was truly inspired by working alongside Morels’ Master Sommelier, Madeline Triffon. Yet another one of those opportunities came along as Dining Room Captain at Michael Mina’s Saltwater and Bourbon Steak in Detroit, MI. There Alexander met Michael Mina’s Wine Director, Rajat Parr, whose influence prompted him to take the next step in his career, and along with it, a move to the San Francisco Bay Area. When it comes to wine and food enjoyed together, Alexander believes the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. He favors an approach to wine that minimizes complexity, emphasizes pleasure and makes people comfortable with their own taste, knowledge and budget. That said, he happens to be a Master Sommelier candidate and is also reaching for the Wine & Spirits Education Trust diploma. Alexander is hesitant to commit to a favorite wine. From crisp whites to earthy reds and even dessert wines, he claims to have no bias but is a fan of grower-producers. If truly pressed he’ll confess a weakness for Champagne, low in alcohol, high in acidity, refreshing and delicious with just about anything! This program has been sponsored by The International Culinary Center. Today’s music provided by Four Lincolns.

“One of the most important things to us was to be non-pretentious in everything that we were doing, because you don’t have to spend a lot of money to get good service or to get a great product.” [24:00]

“I try to stay away from any dogma if I can. I believe in well made wine that’s well executed and delicious.” [28:30]

Alex LaPratt on In The Drink

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The author and chef-owner of two popular New York City restaurants—The Red Cat and The Harrison—Jimmy Bradley presides over neighborhood joints that have become destinations for guests from around the city, and the country. A purveyor of straightforward, occasionally irreverent, food and contagious conviviality, all of it wrapped up in an attitude-free package, Bradley has helped contemporary diners rediscover the intrinsic value of classic Mediterranean cuisine, reinterpreted for a modern American clientele. He and his recipes are regularly featured in The New York Times, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, Esquire and other food publications, as well as on local and national television programs including TODAY Show and Top Chef Masters. His first cookbook, The Red Cat Cookbook, was published by Clarkson Potter in fall 2006. Don’t miss Jimmy Bradley on this week’s edition of In the Drink! Thanks to our sponsor, Rolling Press. Music by Obey City.

“We would dine every Sunday at one o’clock and listen to the opera from the Met. It sounds stereotypical to say my grandmother taught me how to cook, but in this case, that’s how it was… When I first started with a chefs and they would make ravioli, I thought to myself, ‘I know someone who makes better raviolis than you…'” [9:50]

“In my mind, wine factors into everything that has to do with food.” [19:00]

— Jimmy Bradley on In the Drink

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Skye LaTorre serves up fine wine knowledge in a causal setting as the Beverage Director at The Meatball Shop! This week on In the Drink, Joe Campanale sits down with Skye to talk about her storied history in the restaurant business. How did a stint at Emeril’s Delmonico in New Orleans inspire Skye to get serious about wine? Hear about Skye’s time at A16 in San Francisco, and how she got connected with Daniel Holzman and designed the wine list for The Meatball Shop. What are the advantages of curating beverages at a casual dining joint like The Meatball Shop? Hear more about Skye’s dedication to tasting, and why her interest in local spirits is fueled by Old World wine traditions. This program has been brought to you by The International Culinary Center. Music by Dead Stars.

“It’s hard to articulate what you want in terms of a wine list, so it’s great to work with people who you know and know what they want.” [10:10]

“Don’t put champagne on a Meatball Shop wine list in Brooklyn- it won’t work!” [12:00]

“I wish we could speak about wine in the way that friends speak about football.” [20:10]

— Skye LaTorre on In the Drink

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Explore The New California Wine with famed wine writer Jon Bonne on this week’s episode of In the Drink. As the wine editor for the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon has won a regional following in the Bay Area as well as national recognition as one of the most important voices in the wine community. Host Joe Campanale and Jon Bonne discuss the untold story of the California wine industry: the young, innovative producers who are rewriting the rules of contemporary winemaking; their quest to express the uniqueness of California terroir; and the continuing battle to move the state away from the overly-technocratic practices of its recent past. This program has been sponsored by Heritage Foods USA.

“The new buzz word [in wine] is diversity. My argument would be that there should be a diversity of styles that can be made in a traditional way and don’t require dark magic in the cellar.” [14:00]

—Jon Bonne on In The Drink

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French-born Florent Morellet began to draw maps in grade school in his hometown of cholet, outside of Nantes. Since a young age, his parents encouraged him to pursue his interest in maps of real and imagined places, which led to formal studies in city planning at Central London Polytechnic. Florent continued to explore cities all over the world, leading him to New York, where he opened restaurant Florent in 1985. Florent is also a highly visible social activist. He made his renowned restaurant a springboard for grassroots activism for over twenty years. He has been a leader in issues ranging from gay rights and AIDS to end-of-life choices and architectural preservation. He has received many awards and honors for this work, including The American Foundation for AIDS Research and Heritage of Pride, which named him Grand Marshal of New York’s LGBT Gay Pride Day 2006. Since retiring from his restaurant business in 2008, Florent has concentrated his energy working on his art while remaining involved in social causes. In April 2010, the Manhattan Borough president appointed him to the city’s Community Board 2. This program has been sponsored by Heritage Foods USA.

“The young and bohemian life always moves to areas that need to be discovered.” [14:50]

—Florent Morellet on In The Drink

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