Zeny 3in1 Soldering Station ~$85 Digital Soldering Iron Hot Air Rework Gun DC Power Supply Voltmeter Zeny 2in1 Soldering Station ~$65 Digital Soldering Iron (100-500 degrees C - Up to 700W) Hot Air Rework Gun Hakko Wire Cutter ~$5 Any numbers of arms, clips & Magnifying glasses Paste, Wick and Soldapult Desoldering Wick & Solder Sucker ~$7 Soldering Paste ~$4 URBEST 530 piece Assortment ~$8 URBEST Adhesive-lined HST ~$12 Assume you will damage the surface on which you are working! (Seriously... you've been warned) Silicone-Insulated Wire is better than Plastic-Insulated Wire Heat the Wire/Pad/Part... NOT the solder. You want the solder to flow ONTO the Wire/Pad/Part Keep your tip Clean! Heat Matters! - You need enough heat in the tip to flow the solder BEFORE the heat destroys the Wire/Pad/Part Tips Matter! - The shape and side of your tip determines how much heat it holds and how quickly it will transfer that heat to the wire/pad/part The Iron is either being USED, or it's in its cradle. Don't forget the heat shrink! (Otherwise you'll be cutting the solder joint you just made!) Cut and strip Tin the iron (Lets you know when it's hot enough) Heat the wire Apply the solder to the wire and let it flow into the strands Cut and strip Apply paste Heat the wire Apply solder and let it flow into the strands We're going to show you a few different styles of splicing wires together (Wires are parallel - Exposed ends are twisted and soldered, then insulated) Typically used inside of junction boxes Pro: VERY easy to do Con: Cannot take much mechanical stress Wires are joined at the middle, then backwound Make sure to add the heat shrink BEFORE you solder Pro: Strong Con: Trickier to master Strands are pushed together and the wires are twisted and smoothed down Also needs HS BEFORE soldering Pro: VERY STRONG, looks good Con: PITA Through-Hole and Pad Soldering
Cut and Strip Tin Heat the pad, not the wire/solder The Car uses a 14V LiPo cell that's inserted into the back of the car It has a mechanical steering linkage It has a switch for reversing power It has a foot pedal for activating the motors (They're on or off... no speed control) It uses dual motors So... we can deduce a few things:
The Lipo PROBABLY flows through the power switch (forward or reverse) then the pedal to the motors. The motors run in opposite directions to drive the wheels in the same direction We're going to need a heavy-duty servo that can move the steering linkage. We're going to need some heavy-duty gear
DS3218 - Full Metal, Waterproof 20KG Servo ~$19 320A 7.2V-16V Brushed ESC ~$13
These show notes have been truncated due to length. For the full show notes, visit https://twit.tv/shows/know-how/episodes/371
Hosts: Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ and Jason Howell
Ring.com/KNOWHOW