A conversation with the only man to win four championships at Jaws
 
Welcome to Episode Ten of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes.
 
Professional big-wave surfers are humans of another ilk. And even among that elite group, there are those that set themselves apart from the rest: Laird. Dorian… Billy.

A former WSL Big Wave World Champion, Maui native Billy Kemper has won the Peahi Challenge four times. To win at Jaws just once takes a special kind of devotion and a unique competitive edge. His performance at what many consider to be the greatest giant wave in the world is so dominant, it’s almost mysterious. In this episode of Late Drop, Kemper unravels a bit of that mystery for us, among other revelations.

0:00 Recent session at glassy Jaws, Doing the WSL Challenger series in Europe

12:12 His unique approach to Jaws, Training under Laird Hamilton, Looking for the biggest barrel ever, His equipment preference and custom Futures big-wave fin

28:03 Surfing Maverick’s, Growing up on Maui, Competitive relationship with Albee

35:43 Working hard, Providing for his family, Taking competition seriously, His legacy at Jaws

46:18 Training with Kahea Hart, Committing himself to fitness and nutrition

59:30 Horrible accident in Morocco, Nearly losing his identity, Putting life into perspective

1:08:22 Plans for this winter, Looking for new barrels, Winning events

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The hard-charging big-wave world champion from Kauai that goes by the name of KK.
Presented by http://futuresfins.com 
 
“I was pretty much raised by savage wolves,” said 2018 Womens Big Wave World Champion, Keala Kennelly, “But it turned me into a warrior.” Those wolves? Kauai boys. The Irons. The Alexanders. Heavys like that. And warrior, indeed. Unapologetically herself—and a rad one, at that—Keala’s actions have always spoken louder than words. From a successful career on the CT, to breaking glass ceilings at Code Red Teahupoo, to plain being an inspiration to generations of girls following in her footsteps, this is a very special episode. Spill that tea, KK. 
 
0:00 Growing up in Hanalei, Kauai, Living near the Irons’ and other surf stars, Competing with the boys in contests, Using her anger to charge big waves, Growing up in a surfing family, Nearly becoming a cop after losing sponsors
 
8:50 Finding surfing with the Irons’ and dreaming of becoming a pro, Qualifying for the World Tour at 17, The sentiment toward women competitors back then, No women in the Triple Crown of Surfing for a decade, Giving women more opportunities to rise to the occasion in competition
 
20:28 Being on Tour, Winning at Teahupoo 4X, Runner-Up to world champion, Layne Beachley’s dominace, Never recovering from that 2nd place finish, Leaving the Tour for acting, Giving her Tour spot to Michelle 
 
29:35 Becoming a season regular on HBO show, Living in LA for a year for the show, Show gets cancelled and economy crashes
 
35:53 Coming out of the closet while being a pro surfer, Losing all her sponsors, Becoming a charging, heavy water freesurfer, Begging guys at Teahupoo from the channel to tow her in during big swells
 
44:09 Ripping off half her face during Code Red Swell, Winning first ever big wave womens tour event at Nelscott Reef, Oregon, Winning biggest barrel of the year at XXL Awards and nominated for an ESPY award, First woman ever to be invited to The Eddie 
 
56:47 Competing in the first few Peahi Challenge womens events, Winning a big wave world title in 2018, Advice to young women coming up and following in her footsteps 

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The San Diego big-wave icon and author articulating the realities of head trauma
 
Welcome to Episode Six of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes.
 
In big-wave surfing — much like normal-wave surfing — the audience usually sees two things: the makes and wipeouts. Both, very entertaining; both, which earn guys and girls awards each year. What we don’t see, however, is what those wipeouts can do to a person, over and over, over time. What a concussion — let alone, multiple concussions — can do to someone. Perhaps, this is the big-wave world’s taboo topic, but San Diego charger and big-wave awards winner, Derek Dunfee, has done a whole lot to articulate (and write a book about) the effects big-wave surfing can have on your brain, specifically, one that is concussed. In this very special episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell and Derek Dunfee get real about the “network of issues,” one might see from multiple head traumas in the sport they love.
 
0:00: Growing up in San Diego, Surfing La Jolla, Windansea, Surfing every single day, History of the Windansea surf club and hut, Learning to surf from Dad, Doing NSSA events, Surfing different types of boards/guns/fishes
 
9:52: Becoming a Tavarua boatman, Getting sponsored by Volcom, Getting into big waves, Being used to respecting the locals and etiquette (from La Jolla), Not getting waves at spots at first
 
21:12: Derek’s path to Maverick’s, Friendship with Zach Wormhoudt, Going to Todos Santos, Being selfless and watching people/doing safety from the Ski
 
33:20: Fostering the new, younger generation, Being patient, Getting his first concussion at Cloudbreak, The Turkey Day swell and his XXL award winning wave
 
42:45: Derek’s beginning of his “end” of surfing big waves, Symptoms Derek would feel from his concussions, The series of hitting his head on reef at spots, Nearly drowning at Cortez Bank, Encountering anxiety with big waves, Not being able to focus his right eye, Network of issues
 
52:32: The dark period while writing his book, Finding a specialist to work with about concussions, The incredible responses on social media, Getting his lived saved by Shawn Dollar
 
1:02:43: Being there to listen about concussions, Helmets, Derek’s day to day routine, Hyperbaric chamber
 
1:14:51: How does someone know when they’ve had a concussion, Researching CTE, Derek’s book: “Waking Up in the Sea”

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The Aussie big-wave surfer-shaper that’s packed bombs with the best of them.
 
The surfer-shaper is truly a special kind of surfer. They know what works, what doesn’t, and all the nuance in between because they’ve had their paws on every curve and concave of the craft, over and over and over again. But the big-wave surfer shaper? Like Dylan Longbottom? That’s another kind of responsibility. A guy like Dyl—who has packed bombs from Teahupoo to Shippies—he knows the level of quality a board in that type of surf deserves. A guy, who after 30 years of professionally freesurfing big waves, is now shaping boards for the crew (and Lucas Chumbo) out at Nazare: Dyl and his boards have seen places few surfers on the planet have. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Dylan Longbottom shares with Jamie Mitchell how he got his life to this point.
 
 
0:00 Growing up in Cronulla and then the South Coast, Having a dad that was a surfer/glasser, Being a kid working in the shaping bay, Got picked up by Billabong at 18 as a freesurfer, Making videos with Bali Strickland while still shaping

10:31 Got his bricklayer apprenticeship, Shaped his first board at 24, The Billabong Challenge at the South Coast

17:55 Began surfing with straps and tow surfing in the 2000s, Practicing rotations for air-game

23:50 Getting into big-wave surfing, Relationship with surfing huge Teahupoo, Shipsterns Bluff, The pivotal session at Shipsterns with Andy, Parko and Laurie Towner

32:46 The Code Red Swell success, Getting his equipment dialed at Teahupoo, Shaping for guys out at Teahupoo, Worst experience at Teahupoo

42:35 Filming stunt work for Point Break at Teahupoo, Focusing on the Australian big waves for Billabong’s Adventure Division

48.43 Shaping for guys like Lucas Chumbo, Surfing Nazare, The way he’s kept his surf career alive this whole time

54:19 Dealing with his most horrible experience at Nazare, Going from quads back to thrusters on boards,

1:05:10 Surfing big waves with his daughter, Where he sees big-wave surfing going, Where he sees big-wave equipment going

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

It ain’t easy on a kid moving over to the North Shore of Maui from the Mainland — let alone another country. Sardinia’s Francisco Porcella, however, is cut from a different cloth. And even though he learned to surf off of a large island in the Mediterranean Sea, the dashing Italian stepped up to the plate very quickly as a teenager on Maui — and joined the league of gentlemen and women at Jaws that led the paddle-in new era. Eventually, after about a decade of working at the big-wave game, Francisco was making his mark, surfing the Jaws events, winning the XXL “Biggest Wave Award,” and turning heads wherever he arrived. Never a one-trick Italian stallion, he also gets his kicks skydiving, and, well, being an Italian celebrity (See: Dancing With the Stars). In the newest episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell gets the goods from this international man of mystery.

HIGHLIGHTS

0:00 Growing up in Sardinia, Italy, Playing soccer seriously, Bombing hills in Sardinia, Quitting soccer to move to Hawaii and surf big waves, Windsurfing seriously then getting into big wave surfing, Having a life in Sardinia playing outside

7:46 Watersports and surf scene in Sardinia, Surfing Jaws at the time when it went from Tow to Paddle, His inspirational session with Sion and Nate

14:31 Moving to Maui at 14 years old, Proving himself on Maui, Getting a JetSki, Beginning to tow at 18 years old, Chasing the big-wave dream in his early years, Parents moved back to Sardinia and Francisco and brother stayed on Maui, Trying for 10 years before a break

23:16 Inspired by Shane Dorian, Enjoying the power of Nature, Skydiving with wind suits, Training yourself mentally in extreme sports to translate into big waves, The friendships you build in big-waves

34:17: The struggles in big-wave competitions, Maintaining the dream at Jaws, Winning biggest wave of year, Going back to Italy and being on some TV shows, Getting sponsors through the TV gigs while basing in Sardinia, Sharing that stoke with the younger watermen and women of Sardinia

48:04 Big wave goals for the future, The richness of experiences

50:15 Advice to the younger generation following in his footsteps

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

from Pico Alto to Puerto Escondido—the Peruvian King holds court…
 
Welcome to Episode XX of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, XXXX and others. Stay tuned here for more.
 
Being a professional surfer—let alone professional big-wave surfer—is no easy livelihood. Now, try being one from Peru. The flights are long no matter what, the support can be hard to find, and you’re often overlooked by superstars coming from waves like Jaws. Not Peruvian Gabriel Villaran. A man who’s made it his life’s goal to carve out a seat at the table for his country in the big-wave convo (and beyond), Gabriel’s been impressing the world for decades now. From his homebreak of Pico Alto, to Jaws, to Puerto Escondido, to Todos Santos...from what you’ve seen of the man, you may have even forgotten that he’s a multiple national champion, South American and ISA world champ. You know…in normal-sized surf. On the cusp of Peruvian surfers’ arrival to this year’s Olympic Games in Japan, Gabriel Villaran and Jamie Mitchell chop it up on the newest episode of the Late Drop.
 
0:00 Peruvians qualifying for Olympic Games, Growing up in Lima, Peru, The connection between Peru and Hawaii

12:46 Getting into big waves in Peru, Surfing Pico Alto for first time, Pico Alto (Explained)

21:50 Gabriel’s professional career, Father passing away, Surfing career his only option, Meeting Strider in Hawaii, 2008 big results, Transitioning into a big-wave surfer, Todos Santos event

32:39 Making the finals of the first Jaws event, Relationship with Puerto Escondido, The next generation of young Peruvian big-wave surfers, The struggle of being a South American pro surfer

45:04 Winning the ISA Games in Peru, Beating Australia, Coach Davo, Tow days with Strider and Quik crew in Teahupoo

52:04 Big-wave searches and projects with Red Bull, Realizing the fragility of life, Worst wipeouts in his career (at Pipeline and at Jaws)

1:06:30 The international big-wave

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Class is in session with the Maverick’s Mathematician
 
Welcome to Episode XX of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, XXXX and others. Stay tuned here for more.
 
It's funny how things are a thing—until they’re simply not. “There’s no such thing as a proper 20-foot [Hawaiian] wave in California.” That used to be a thing…until Maverick’s came along, and California’s 20-foot taboo was lifted. A mighty man that’s sure seen a whole lot go down out there in the last 30 years straight is Grant Washburn. From just he and a couple takers in the lineup, to what the break is now—and nearly every moment between—the level of devotion, passion, and knowledge the man has for the break, is unmatched. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell settles into his desk and takes some notes from the professor himself.
 
 0:00 Growing up as a kid on the East Coast, being fixated on big-wave surfing as a kid; Never thinking he’d surf big waves coming from Connecticut; The moment as a child during a hurricane swell when he realized he loved bigger surf; Putting in the time
 
12:09 Being known as the guy who understood ocean conditions well; Moving to San Francisco and surfing big Ocean Beach; Hearing about Maverick’s and then surfing Mav’s for first time
 
22:33 Mav’s breaking the taboo about a 20-ft wave in California; Going out and being committed from that moment on; Mav’s in the 90s;  the battle between Pete Mel and Flea, with Jay Moriarty; Jay’s commitment/influence at Maverick’s and beyond
 
42:20 This past winter’s monumental waves; Pete’s wave and how he got it; The special swell in December 2020; Figuring out the new lineups at Mav’s this past winter
 
1:01:10 New frontiers at Mav’s (or, swells between last December’s and January’s); Optimal equipment for specific Mav’s swells; the correct period/seconds for the best Mav’s swells; January being the biggest clean day he’s ever seen
 
1:09:13 Playing the “Notches Game”; Surfing with Twiggy and the South African guys; Giving Twiggy a chance in the contest
 
1:15:29 Grant’s project with PBS and climate change
 
1:20:15 The best surfers Grant has seen at Mav’s through the decades; Grant’s best ofs at Mav’s; Best equipment for Mav’s

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Late Drop Big Wave Podcast with Carlos Burle
Brazil’s godfather of big-wave surfing
Presented by http://futuresfins.com 

Throughout the course of history, what were once deemed “absolute truths,” are often no so absolute anymore. Stuff like: The world is flat. How certain peoples don’t have the capacity to vote. An electric car will never have the power of a gas-fueled one. Brazilians aren’t a threat in big waves. Then someone comes along and shatters that entire way of thinking. For that last one, it was Carlos Burle. A guy that came on the scene and won the Big Wave World Championships at Todos Santos in 1998, then bagged a world record for biggest wave at Maverick’s in 2001, Carlos paved the way for other Brazilian world champions and record holders like Gabriel Medina, Maya Gabeira, and as of late, Lucas Chumbo. Jamie Mitchell speaks with this very influential and positive human in the newest episode of The Late Drop. 
 
 
0:00 Making the decision to become a surfer and live that lifestyle as a teenager, Being told he can’t be a pro surfer, Having to leave his home/Brazil to make a living as pro surfer
 
12:43 Getting the bug for big-wave surfing, Realizing his advantage in Brazil when contests were bigger, Winning a trip to Peru, Traveling to Hawaii in 1986-87 for first season, His dedication to big waves in Hawaii, Losing his sponsors because of his love for big-wave surfing
 
23:13 Winning the 1998 Todos Santos event and becoming a big wave world champion, Changing people’s minds about Brazilian big-wave surfers 
 
31:14 Breaking the World Record, Being forced to travel around the world since no big waves in Brazil, Pre-Brazilian Storm movement with big-waves
 
40:10 Mentoring Maya Gabeira, Building up Maya’s image/persona to her winning a World Record
 
52:25 Mentoring Lucas Chumbo, Connecting the dots between his talents and results, Lucas hooking up with Kai Lenny
 
59:48 Winning the Big Wave World Title(s), Being first Brazilian to surf the Eddie, His wave at Nazaré, Creating new Futures fins, Dialing in the right equipment
   
1:08:51 Carlos’ 5-to-Finish

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

If it’s heaving, you just know Laurie’s gonna go.
PRESENTED BY https://futuresfins.com

When Billabong sent 19-year-old Laurie Towner to one of the scariest waves on the planet during a massive swell with top-shelf pros Andy Irons and Joel Parkinson in 2006, few expected the Angourie hell boy to actually step up to the plate — much less rule the whole field. 

While most of the crew spent the day getting towed into terrifying kegs at Shipstern’s Bluff, Laurie casually paddled into the bomb of the day — and cemented his reputation as a heavy-water star. Towner almost immediately switched from competing in pro contests to chasing big waves and backless slabs all over the world as a professional freesurfer for Billabong, resulting in XXL Awards, video parts and magazine covers galore.

But the career of a daredevil can be a fickle one. Towner was only 25 when he lost his main sponsor despite nonstop accolades and countless brushes with death. It turned out to be blessing in disguise as he was able to focus on his young family while remaining a standout in historic swell events, from the Code Red Swell at Teahupo’o to the Thundercloud Reef sessions in Fiji. Now, with a fresh sponsor and a newfound focus on Jaws, Laurie Towner’s best may be yet to come.

Episode Highlights: 

0:00 Growing up in Angourie, Surfing the more raw, powerful reefs/slabs around Angourie, Competing in the amateurs, Becoming a pro surfer

14:30 Laurie’s iconic wave at Shipstern’s at 19 years old, Switching from contests to chasing heavy waves, Becoming a professional freesurfer for Billabong, The trip to Tasmania with Andy Irons and Parko

23:32 Deciding that his path was to chase big waves, Training in big slabs in Oz before “big waves” elsewhere, Losing his sponsor at 25, His relationship with big Teahupoo, The Code Red Swell, Being selective at a place like Teahupoo

36:44 Getting on the “Point Break” movie stuntman crew, Nearly killing himself while filming

50:23 Losing sponsor becoming a blessing, Watching his children grow up, Getting sponsored by needessentials, Getting the wave of his life at Cloudbreak

56:44 Getting sponsored again and surfing big Jaws, What it takes to make a big-wave surfer, Advice to young big-wave surfers

1:31:02 Laurie’s 5-to-Finish

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

When the big-wave GOAT speaks — we listen.

Jamie Mitchell's Late Drop Big Wave Podcast with Shane Dorian. Season 3 Episode 1 Presented by Futures Fins.

Every so often, in certain eras across certain disciplines, an athlete doesn’t just change the way we look at a team — he or she changes the way we look at the sport itself. A little over a decade ago, Shane Dorian did that with big-wave surfing out at Jaws. He raised the bar out there in XXL paddle-surfing, setting a precedent for all others to follow, while innovating and progressing that bar himself. Now a self-proclaimed surf-dad (geez, imagine if your pops was Shane Dorian?!) the big-wave GOAT talks with Jamie Mitchell at length in episode one of Season 3 of the Late Drop. And, yeah, this one’s a BANGER. Buckle up and enjoy.

 

Show Highlights 

0:00: Currently chasing his son Jackson’s dreams, meeting up with family in Nicaragua, surfing with his two kids, on being a different dad than his own father, proving something to his dad, on being a parent. 

14:09: Moving to the North Shore of Oahu at 15, becoming a pro surfer with Ross Williams and Jason Mags, Shane’s first day on the North Shore (and it’s 20-feet Hawaiian), hanging with Todd Chesser and Brock Little. 

25:51: Realizing that he loved being scared, surfing with a guy like Brock Little in a more dangerous time pre-safety, crazy outer reef near-drowning session and getting back on the horse, jumping a level.

37:22: Losing Todd Chesser, realizing how dangerous it is, qualifying for the CT, being on Tour for a decade, getting totally jaded with the tour, longing for big-wave surfing. 

46:23: Began towing into XXL waves, 2009 wanted to paddle Jaws on proper days, paddled big Jaws with big board and PSI vest, paradigm shift, Mav’s session where he almost died, epiphany on plane with the safety vests. 

59:58: The real goal of big-wave surfing, the result of the floatation vest movement, big-wave board design/innovation.

1:07:08: Some of Shane’s best waves of his life, being at his peak at Jaws in 2015, shane’s method in sessions vs contests.

1:15:48: Missing the last XXL swell at Cloudbreak, Fiji, the Cortes Bank disaster, Shane’s current mindset in big-wave surfing, the future of Jaws and Mav’s.

1:31:02: Shane’s 5-to-Finish,

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com