Late Drop: The Big Wave Podcast

There’s a lot of surfers out there trying to live their best version of the movie “North Shore.” Spoiler alert: It ain’t that easy. Getting good waves at places like Pipeline, let alone Jaws, require years of beatdowns, humblings, moments of glory, and respect to pay off. Nobody knows this more than Hawaii Island’s Mikey “Redd” O’Shaughnessy, who, for over a decade, started from the bottom of the pack to become a yearly standout on the North Shore. (He’s won the coveted WOTW, mind you.) Of course, even WOTW champions aren’t invincible, and on the recent Valentine’s Pipeline swell, Mikey nearly lost his life in the pursuit. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell talks with Mikey about working your way up the ladder — and his harrowing experience two weeks ago.

https://northshorelifeguards.org/ to learn more about the North Shore Lifeguard Association and here to donate https://www.paypal.com/us/fundraiser/charity/2292692 .

3:00 Healing from his recent accident, Growing up in Puna on Big Island (Hawaii Island), Paddling canoe and surfing slabs, Dabbling in the other island sports like fishing/hunting, Being inspired by big brother Dallas and other Big Island guys like Ikaika Kalama, Kelii Mamala, Being a steersman during paddling

12:41 Dreaming of surfing North Shore/Eddie Aikau Invitational, The values of local community, Dropped out of high school to move to North Shore and become a pro surfer, Working his way up the pecking order from since 14 years old, Life and death struggle at Pipeline, Fixating on both Pipe and Waimea Bay

23:41 Going to Tahiti and fixating on Teahupoo, Winning the 2016 WOTW at OTW, Getting picked up by Volcom, Making his way to Jaws, Getting knocked out and coming to underwater at Jaws

41:22 The Valentine’s Day Pipeline swell, Watching the waves all day and looking for his window, Knocked out on impact, Next moment on the beach on a stretcher, Getting rescued/the scenario, North Shore lifeguards taking over saving him

59:40 Taking lifesaving skills classes as a requirement for big wave surfing, Learning the skills to be in those conditions, Being grateful to be alive

62:12 Mikey’s 5-to-Finish

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If they made a Mt. Rushmore of influential Californian big-wave surfers, a couple names would probably come to mind off the bat. Peter Mel. Greg Long. Of course, four spots just isn’t fair, but the footprints of a lean, former pro surfer turned big-wave specialist from Laguna Beach nicknamed Snips loom large, indeed. From pivotal sessions at Todos Santos and Mav’s, to exploring and bagging world records at Cortes Bank, to barrels at Jaws…Snips has seen some things. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell raps out with the man who deserves a face etched in stone.

 

0:00​ Wavepool talk, Growing up in Laguna Beach, CA, Surfing steep shorebreak, Amateur comp career, Trouble reading in school, Parents supporting his surfing career

14:00​ Getting 2nd in US Championships, Traveling with NSSA national team, Getting into big wave surfing in Hawaii, Competing against the elements, Starting/selling VonZipper, Getting on the Billabong Oddysey team, 1998 Todos Santos session K2 Challenge

29:11​ Teaming up with Brad Gerlach, Getting into surf forecasting with Sean Collins, Getting his pilot’s license

37:02​ The Cortez Bank mission in 2001, Catches 66-foot wave that day, Going back to Cortez in 2008 with Twiggy and Greg Long, Catches 77-foot wave for world record

46:56​ Relationship with Maverick’s, Mark Foo’s death at Mav’s, Watching out for friends while surfing big waves

57:45​ Breaking his back, The Big Wave World Tour, Memorable big waves of his life, Watching Laird tow surfing at Jaws for the first time

1:11:21​ Snip’s 5-to-Finish

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Back in the ’70s, when a pro surfer would sign a contract for wax, two t-shirts and a surfboard (that was Buzzy’s first sponsorship with Local Motion), pros would do other bizarre feats. One of the original godfathers of big wave tow-surfing, Buzzy Kerbox, for example, took a zodiac out with Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner to outer reefs on Oahu…really, just to get away from the crowds. After a more lucrative contract modeling for Ralph Lauren, Buzzy got his kicks while in Europe paddling across the English Channel, as well as from Corsica to Italy, before returning to Hawaii where he and The Strapped Crew would change the face of big wave surfing at a little ‘ole spot called Pe‘ahi. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell talks with Buzzy about simpler times, and what it might be like surfing Jaws before, well…anyone.

Highlights:

0:00: Born in Indiana, raised in Kailua, Oahu at age 10, Competing against Michael Ho in the amateurs/pros, Inspired by Larry Bertleman, Got into the ‘74 Smirnoff Pro at Waimea Bay, Became a pro surfer by ’77, Sponsored by Local Motion, Got on the World Tour, Became a professional fashion model

15:43: Started modeling for Ralph Lauren/Polo, Bought his first zodiac boat to tow off modeling money, Started towing outer reefs to get away from the crowds, Began towing with Darrick Doerner and Laird Hamilton, Developed big-wave tow surfing with the zodiac, Pivotal session at Outside Laniakea

23:38: Transferring to Jet Skis to tow, Discovering Jaws, Going shorter and shorter with boards, Mishaps with the zodiac, Paddle surfers vs tow surfers, Analogy with snowmobiles, Word is out and Jaws gets chaotic

34:02: The safety aspect of Jet Skis, Trials and errors of early tow sessions, Using Brian Keaulana’s Rescue sled, Impact vests, Close-calls/Near death moments

46:56: The Strapped Crew era and keeping Jaws a “secret,” The film “Wake Up Call,” Good tow partners

52:52: Paddling the English Channel with Laird, Nearly getting hypothermia, Traveling Europe with Laird, Paddling from Corsica to Italy, Getting miles and nautical miles mixed up, paddling the Molokai Channel before it was a race

1:01:44: Buzzy’s photography, His new book, Buzzy’s take on modern big wave surfing today, The stars of Jaws in 2021

1:12:03: Buzzy’s 5-to-Finish

 

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Jamie Mitchell, Pete Mel, Kai Lenny and Twiggy Baker: Mav’s, slabs, outer boils and bean burritos.

Call it a debriefing. They’re normally required by military soldiers or spies after a completed mission — and any big-wave surfer surely knows that some sessions can feel like a war zone. That swell of the decade a couple weeks ago at Maverick’s? Yeah, that deserved a debrief. So in this very special episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell patched in Peter Mel, Kai Lenny and Grant Twiggy Baker to get an in depth and very entertaining talk about what exactly went into that day. From forecast to flights, prep to warmup sesh, first wave jitters to “we could’ve been deepers.” Grab a beverage and join these four fascinating men. Pardon Twiggy’s formal attire, and around minute 16:35, notice Peter Mel’s face as Kai Lenny describes an unnamed guy that passed out all 20 of his coveted Taco Bell bean burritos. 

Show Highlights

0:00:00 Pete on forecasting this legendary swell, Twig and Kai on their decisions to fly to Mav’s for the swell, Kai on not red-eyeing the flight there, Pete/Twig/Kai’s preparation processes for Maverick’s

18:25 Kai’s warmup process at a wave like Maverick’s, Everyone’s first thoughts when arriving, Luca Padua’s wave, Twiggy’s epic biggest wave he’d ever caught, The outside bowl

39:21 Pete on that critical “first wave,” Pete and surfing with his two sons out there, Pete’s session the following day

47:07 Kai’s best ride that day, Jamie thinking they could’ve sat deeper

55:20 Twiggy’s equipment choices that day, 10’0”s vs 9’4”s, Pete’s equipment choices, Kai’s equipment choices/windsurfing synergy

1:08:40 Young kids they saw that impressed them, Jamie’s take on the generational performance at Mav’s

1:17:19 Who got the best wave that day…

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

the vet that just can’t keep out of the danger zone…
 
 Welcome to Episode Six of Season Two of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, Bob Pearson, Buzzy Kerbox and others. Stay tuned here for more.
 
Speakin’ of Mav’s….Why not drop an episode of Jamie Mitchell (who recently charged the run of XXL swells to hit Maverick’s) with one of the OG water patrol and photographers to document Cali’s finest big wave arena? Enter: Frank Quirarte, a man whose byline you’ve probably seen on the best photos of Mav’s for the past 30-odd years. What many may not know of the man is his influence and loyalty to keeping the boys and girls safe out there -- year in and year out -- and much of that drive probably owed to his own military experience in his youth. Days before flying over to surf the subject of interest, Jamie Mitchell sat down with Frank in the newest episode of the Late Drop.
 
0:00: Growing up in Northern California not far from Maverick’s, Airforce experience, Becoming an EMT, Getting into photography, Managing the rescue team for Quiksilver,The merits of operating a Jet Ski from tow movement

15:35: Getting on retainer with SURFING mag, Training with the Coast Guard with first big wave safety, Building the Billabong XXL project, Traveling with Greg Long, Staring the Maverick’s Water Patrol/Rescue
 
28:31: The Growth of BWRAG, Era of Billabong Odyssy Trips, Big Wave rescue first/photography second
 
37:35: Frank’s favorite places to shoot, Shooting “Chasing Mavericks,” Shooting Nazaré
 
52:20: Frank’s expectations for this winter, More core surfers at Mav’s, The progression Frank has seen over the years, 
  
1:31:56: Frank’s 5 to finish questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The thing about Kai Lenny, one of the greatest watermen the world has ever known, is that Kai is unapologetically…Kai. He’ll tell you that he wants catch the biggest wave ever surfed on the planet, and in the same breath, tell you that he’d like to surf Shipstern’s Bluff specifically so he could try a chop-hop down that infamous Shipstern’s step. No shame in Kai’s game. With a first name that literally means “ocean” in Hawaiian, and Waterman as his middle (it’s actually an old German family name), it’s like Kai was born to be great. Recently dropping his new series with Red Bull “Life of Kai,” which shows all the struggles and trips it takes to get to greatness, Jamie Mitchell sat down with the man in the newest episode of the Late Drop.

Show Highlights

0:00: The recent giant Nazare swell, Seeing the biggest waves he’d ever seen there, Towing with Lucas, Ian and Maya during that swell, The difference between Nazare’s power and other big waves

21:33: Risk vs reward in certain big waves, Smaller period bigger swell sessions, The Jaws swell in 2012 that Shane Dorian starred in, Surfing banned at Nazare at moment

30:58: Kai’s backstory, growing up on Maui, Maui as an epicenter of ocean sports, Watching Jaws, Laird as a kid and becoming obessed with the wave

42:33: The next generation of Kai Lennys on Maui, The guys Kai considered superheroes as a kid in big waves, The moment Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama invited him out to Jaws as a kid, The genius of Dave Kalama, Rush Randall inspiration, Robbie Naish

59:17: Becoming your own person, Achieving your personal goals, Not letting ego get in your way

1:02:22: Sharing the spotlight when towing a partner, the joy of sharing the big wave experience, Homeschooling vs normal school, Sacrificing school to travel for career, Being sponsored as an “alternative surfing” athlete

1:13:15: Teaming up with Red Bull young and filming his life, Kai’s new “Life of Kai” series, Where big-wave surfing is headed in next 5 years, Wanting to be the best big-wave surfer in the world, Advice for the next generation

1:31:56: Kai’s 5 to finish questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

It would be easy to assume that most big-wave surfers have Nazaré-sized egos. And maybe, some very well do. One of the most revered, influential, and unassuming modern big-wave greats named, Nathan Fletcher, however, surely does not.

“Out there…you can’t really have your ego up,” says Nathan. “You have to lose your culture, all your history, everything that you bring to the table has to be left on the beach because you’re dealing with you, and the ocean…”

Preach.

From pretty much giving up surfing to snowboard and ride dirt bikes during his teens, to changing the game at Teahupoo, Tahiti, to influencing generations of big-wave board design and safety protocols, the uncompromising Nate Fletcher blesses us with his wisdom in the newest episode of the Late Drop.

0:00:00 Global influence of Dad Herbie Fletcher, Herbie starting the JetSki movement, Different alternative parenting, Growing up a Fletcher, Quitting surfing as a teen and going to snow/skate, Finding his own path in the world

10:16 Motocross influence, Breaking something and getting to know fear in order to come back to surfing, Getting good at multiple disciplines

15:45 Gotcha Pro event in Tahiti, Quitting motocross to surf the event, Getting the wave of his life in event, Doing the Surfing Magazine Air Shows, Getting sponsored by Vans,

22:31 Becoming a heavy waterman, Using a helmet for safety, Tom Carroll’s helmet advice, Starting to tow then going back to paddling in in 1998, Using a life vest for big waves back then, Adrenaline as therapy

37:34 Big waves/Nature connecting humans to each other, Being in “the zone,” Vulnerability making you a better person, Quads on boards and Nate’s influence, Quads vs thruster vs twin fins in big waves

53:36 Giant Cloudbreak with Bruce Irons, Kohl, and Hippo, Tahiti Code Red Swell, The Wave of the swell and the wipeout,

1:06:16 Close call in Chile, Nearly drowning in Chile, His epiphany after that, Why he still surfs big waves, His realization

1:15:57 Nathan’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Late Drop - The Big Wave Podcast: Jamie Mitchell Interviews Ireland’s Keen Tow Team

 Conor Maguire surfs, Barry Mottershead drives, Finn Mullen keeps everyone safe.

 In this latest episode of Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell shines a light on exactly how much hard work, intense preparation, adamantine teamwork, local communication and mental toughness goes into tackling an XXL swell at Mullaghmore — and that’s before you even hit the water — by interviewing the tow team heard around the world: Conor Maguire (surfer), Barry Mottershead (driver) and Finn Mullen (water safety). 

 As detailed in this week’s Breaking News story, with a massive North Atlantic swell in the water this week, Ireland’s premier big-wave slab detonated in historic fashion. In fact, young Irish surfer Conor Maguire charged what was obviously the bomb of the swell — if not the biggest bomb ever ridden out there.

 “Finn Mullen, who’s an absolute local legend here, came onboard as chief of safety for this session and did an incredible job,” Conor told Surfline. “He got in touch with the coastguard, the RNLI. He’s clued in and doesn’t want to take any risks. We were in safe hands, and then we contacted Sligo County Council and got permission to surf. We had four skis, a paramedic on hand, and two spotters on the cliff. We couldn’t have been safer.”

 

“The original idea was just to have respect for the locals and not to offend anyone,” Conor adds. “The headland was like an amphitheater – everyone was in their cars, adhering to COVID protocols, as were we. In the harbor with the safety briefing, we had masks on and all that stuff. It was pretty professional. And Barry Mottershead, he killed it driving. Poor guy, he was under so much stress. He had to take a breather afterwards in the channel. Everyone was chatting and he was, like, laid down on the ski about a mile out to sea, just staring into the sky [laughs].”

 

 

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Papa Moniz drops that local BW knowledge
 
Welcome to episode 2 of season 2 of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast Presented by Futures Fins. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline each week — upcoming guests include Nathan Fletcher, Bob Pearson and others.  Stay tuned here for more.
 
Sure, with enough discipline and mental fortitude, you can learn how to catch a big wave, despite your geographic background or upbringing. But when it comes to that sheer desire, that profound hunger for the ocean’s truly terrifying faces…as Tony Moniz puts it: “You either have it, or you don’t.” Hawaiian father (and grandfather) of the wildly talented Moniz brothers and Sister, Tony’s always had that “it” for big waves. Also, that “it” for boxing and dirt biking and other thrills that can never be replicated by watching a six-inch screen. A continual Eddie Aikau Invitational invitee, childhood witness to The Duke, and true ambassador of aloha, Tony Moniz and Jamie Mitchell talk story in the newest episode of the Late Drop.
 
 
0:00: Tony’s childhood, Ocean/mountain heritage, Waikiki, Uncle Duke, Eddie as modern day Duke, Dream of the Eddie Invitational
 
13:22: A childhood of team sports, Racing motorbikes, Boxing, Not joining marines, Becoming a pro surfer
 
23:05: High adrenaline addictions, Following his heart, Going to Australia to compete, Going back to Aus with his son Seth,  
 
35:24: Getting into big waves, First Waimea Bay board from Ben Aipa, Phantoms, Sunset/Pipe, Sparring partner Dane Kealoha, Tony’s big wave influences
 
47:04: Quest for 100-ft wave, Going to Kauai, Giant Makaha, Giant Rabbit Island
 
54:30: 1990 Eddie Invitational, Getting barreled in the comp, Brock Little’s approach/similarities with his own life
 
1:03:16: Similarities between old and new big wave generation, PSI vests, You either have it or you don’t, Significance of the Eddie Aikau event, Tony’s health update

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Catching up with the Notorious RCJ
 
Welcome to episode 1 of season 2 of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include Nathan Fletcher, Tony Moniz and others. Stay tuned here for more.
 
Big-wave visionary? Middle-aged grom? Good Time Charlie? Screw loose? For one of the big-wave world’s most unforgettable characters, Ross Clarke-Jones is most likely all of the above. One of the first men to make an actual career out of big-wave surfing, RCJ’s love affair with Waimea Bay finally earned him an Eddie win in 2001 — maybe the most coveted of big-wave accomplishments. Simultaneously a tow-surf god, RCJ pioneered the unruly waters of Nazare, trading North Shore winters for European staycations. Stuck in Australia until further notice, Jamie Mitchell chats with the very vibrant and frothy Ross Clarke-Jones in the newest episode of the Late Drop.
 
 0:00: Growing up on Central Coast, Childhood, Discovering drive for pro surfing, Getting on Quiksilver, State then Queensland Champion, Starring in “Mad Wax,” the cult film
 
15:52: Breaking through tour comps to get to big waves, Following in Kong’s footsteps, Getting to Hawaii, Billabong Pro at Waimea Bay on a 7’10”, Feeling at home in Hawaii, Embraced by Da Hui
 
27:14: Winters on the North Shore, The tow-in movement, Legendary swell of 1998, The accident with the Jet Ski
 
46:30: Relationship with The Eddie event, Finally winning The Eddie, The 2016 Eddie event
 
1:01:53: Relationship with Nazare, Posting up in Europe, Racing cars, Burgers and Not-Burgers, Getting sucked into Nazare cliff, Australian Survival Series
   
1:19:18: Ross’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com