Late Drop: The Big Wave Podcast

The Girl Wonder from West Oz

 

Welcome to the 13th installment of the Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline each week — upcoming guests include Ross Clarke-Jones and others.  Stay tuned here for more.

 

Five years ago, a young woman from Perth, who was becoming disillusioned with the waves on the women’s world tour rode the biggest wave ever caught by a female Australian surfer at Cowaramup Bombora, aka Cow Bombie. That young woman was Felicity Palmateer, aka “Flick.” It was a wave that broke 7X world champion Layne Beachley’s previous record (a woman whose signed poster Flick would admire her whole life, pinned to her bedroom wall). From that wave through the present, she’s been chasing giant swells all over the world — even finishing runner up to Paige Alms last year in the Peahi Challenge (by a slim 1.48-point margin). Freshly home from a giant swell-run up the coast of her native Western Australia, Jamie checks in with this fearless woman-wonder.

 

 

0:00: Growing up in Western Australia, Going up to Gnarloo, Learning to surf from father, Beginning to compete, Doing WQS, Pro Juniors and WCT in one year

 

17:58: Getting into big waves, Margaret River Main Break, Yallingup, Near-shark attack

 

26:32: Actually making a career out of big wave surfing, Pivotal Cow Bombie session, Breaking Layne Beachley’s record

 

35:05. First session at Jaws, First Jaws challenge event, Mentorship from Andrea Moller

 

46:46: Sponsorless big wave surfing, Current (future) travel plans

 

50:10. Training routine, Art exhibitions, Putting things into perspective

  

57:33: Felicity’s 5-to-Finish Questions

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If you’re a big-wave surfer — and, a big-wave surfer from Cape Town, South Africa — it’s not about quantity; it’s about quality. Because, when it takes something, like, 50 hours to get to a place where the swell’s going to flex, be it Jaws, Nias, or Mullaghmore…yeah, you’ve got to be discerning. Precise. Surgical. Meet Cape Town’s Matt Bromley. He’s the guy that shows up on his own after a 3-day flight and bags the wave of the day, chipping in from some lineup spot 10 yards deeper than the pack. Not long after a quick bout with COVID, he sat down with Jamie Mitchell in the latest episode of The Late Drop.
 
0:00: Run of recent big swells in South Africa, Getting sick with COVID, Recent Dungeons session, Growing up in Cape Town, Being a swimmer/water polo
 
14:57: Growing up, surfing Cape Town during childhood, Going to Hawaii staying with Benji Brand, Attraction to slabs/big tubes, Making big waves/training a career, Challenges with travel of being a Saffa big wave free surfer
 
32:14: South African inspirations/mentors in big wave surfing, Experience at Dungeons, Great Whites, Twiggy’s expertise, Dangers of big waves with kelp, Red Bull Dungeons Event
 
49:22: Comparing Dungeons to other big wave breaks, Cape Town’s Sunset break, Towing vs paddling in South Africa
 
59:33: That Nias swell, Manifesting talent in big waves, Feelings about end of the WSL BWWT
 
1:22:01: Matt’s 5-to-Finish Questions

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Charge…swim…bike…run…repeat.
When one’s world gets thrown upside down, often folks play the blame-game, or just plain wallow. Yeah, that’s never been Clint Kimmins’ M.O., the hard-charging grom to follow Mick, Parko and Dingo’s generation on the Gold Coast in the mid-2000’s. A kid who was getting multiple magazine covers from his North Shore exploits, on his way to potentially qualifying…his path was accidentally waylaid. So whattya do when life gives you lemons? Clint made triathlons. Actually, he joined in on the paddle movement, doing seasons at Jaws and Mav’s WHILE becoming a professional triathlete. In this special episode of The Late Drop, Jamie and Clint articulate the similarities between triathlons and big wave surfing, and the mental fortitude it takes for the two.
 
 0:00: The recent 50-year swell in Sydney, Surfing Dead Mans, Cape Solander
 
11:58: Growing up on Gold Coast and surfing in school as a sport, Proving himself in big waves, First trip to Hawaii at 14, Getting mag covers on the North Shore, Ego in big waves
 
18:06: Life does a U-turn and Clint goes to prison, Begins his fitness routine, Gets through max security prison 
 
25:39: Got out of prison, Gets sponsored by Red Bull, Tries WQS, Began to train and do triathlons, Began swimming more
 
34:29: Going pro in triathlons, Iron Man triathlon, Going back to big wave surfing, How the training helps the surfing (physically/mentally), The similarities between the two disciplines 
 
46:03: Juggling big wave surfing and triathlons, Trying to qualify for BWWT, The business of big wave surfing
 
53:01: COVID messing up big wave travel, Surfing big waves at older ages, Running for mental health
  
1:02:44: Clint’s 5-to-Finish Questions

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Back in the late ‘80s, there was a classic TV commercial running a lot about the anti-balding Hair Club for Men product. The big reveal at the end? The owner goes: “I’m not just the president of Hair Club for Men…I’m a client!” And in an odd way, this reminds us of Santa Cruz, California’s finest: Peter Mel. For some years, Peter Mel was not only the Commissioner of the WSL Big Wave World Tour…he was also a former BWWT world champion, Maverick’s event champion, “The Kill” Generation super-star…the list goes on. But clearly, at his core, Peter Mel is a big-wave fanatic and modern icon. In one of Jamie Mitchell’s all-time favorite episodes of the Late Drop, he and the Condor (because his wingspan) chat for a solid 95 minutes. Enjoy!

 

0:00: Growing up in Santa Cruz, California, Working in the Freeline Shop, Shaper father, Raising your children in gnarly surf

11:44: Getting into competitive surfing as a teen, First trip to Hawaii, Surfing Sunset Beach and getting the big wave bug, Respecting the SC elders, Becoming a pro surfer, The Kill generation

23:44: Learning from Sunset Beach, Starting to surf Maverick’s, Peter and Flea pushing each other at Mav’s, Partying

38:15: Quik’s Men Who Ride Mountains event at Mav’s, Flea’s reign at Maverick’s events, Towing giant Mav’s

49:22: Competing on QS, Becoming a legit “big wave surfer,” Eddie contests, Step Into Liquid film

100:36: First time at Cortes Bank, Start of the Big Wave World Tour, Gary Linden’s first events, Winning BWWT world title in 2012

1:08:55: Winning Maverick’s in 2013, Getting boards and fit for the season, Pros/Cons of the inflation vests, Billy Kemper’s dedication

1:19:25: Becoming BWWT commissioner in 2014, Writing the WSL Rule Book, Current state/future of big wave surfing, Resurgence of tow surfing

1:31:22: Pete’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Much like druids, dervishes, and the secret castes of ancient alchemists…a man from Santa Cruz, California can be hard to pin down. The Fleas and Skindogs and keepers of the Lane often defy reason; are often unknowable. The Westside’s young Nic Lamb, a 2X Punta Galea winner and Mav’s event champion is bred in the same vein, but lucky for us, Jamie Mitchell pulled the stories and tales out of the man like a podcast sorcerer. “At the end of the day I’m just being me,” said Nic. “I’m doing me, I like to have fun, I like to go fast, I like to look good…and sometimes, I just like to wear a nice suit.” Amen, brother.

 

0:00: Intro, Growing up between Santa Cruz and South Africa, Santa Cruz’s surf culture/localism, Only the strong survive

 

9:17: Nic’s father, Junior lifeguarding, Getting into Mav’s, Surfing it at 14 years old, Competing in small waves simultaneously,

 

20:41: Starting the Big Wave World Tour, Winning Punta Galea twice back-to-back, Winning the Mav’s event, Jaws wave this past year

 

29:44: Finally getting invited to Mav’s event, Moving to L.A. to act, Doing it differently

 

38:48: Training routine, Dealing with injuries, Focus for upcoming big wave season, BWWT ideas and critiques

 

51:29: Nic’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Question: Can you still really be considered “underground” when you’ve won a Guinness Book of World Records record for your efforts? Mmm, maybe if it’s “Smallest Watercolor Painting,” but if it was for “Largest Wave Ever Paddled Into Pe’ahi (Jaws)”…yeah, in the surf world, you’re gonna blast through Ground Zero. Big Island-born, North Shore of Oahu-raised Aaron Gold, actually won that record in 2016 for a 63-foot-tall Jaws drainer. Of course, for anyone in Hawaii, that might not be a surprise. Aaron’s been Mr. Turn & Burn for the last few decades. His underground status just might’ve been more apt to the rest of the world. Jamie’s newest guest on The Late Drop, Aaron fills us in on his origin story—all the way to technically drowning at big Cloudbreak a few seasons back.

0:00: Moving to Oahu from Big Island, Relationship with father, Getting into football, paddling canoe, team sports

 13:17: Getting into big waves, Sandy Beach, Pinballs, First taste of Waimea Bay

 20:30: About his rep/attitude for going on anything, Getting into the Eddie, Being a blue collar guy, Moving back to Big Island, then back to Oahu, Letting go the dream, Dealing with injuries,

 34:21: Catching the biggest paddle-in wave at Jaws on “The Day,” The camaraderie of that day

 51:23: Aaron’s near-death accident at Tavarua, Being prepared [to be humbled] in big waves

 59:02: Aaron’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Ever done the big wave trifecta? Jojo Roper has.
 
Welcome to the sixth installment of the Late Drop Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline each week — upcoming guests include Brian Keaulana, Peter Mel, Nic Lamb and others.  Stay tuned here for more.
 
Groomed on the shallow reef breaks and fickle slabs of La Jolla, San Diego -- and raised by hellman surfer-shaper dad, Joe Roper -- Jojo Roper is one of California’s most exciting, young big-wave exports. But when you’ve qualified for the Big Wave World Tour, and the world won’t let you export…what’s a man to do? In Jojo’s case? Train, dream, work in Pop’s shop, and in the newest episode of the Late Drop, reminisce about the good ‘ole days, in a different world, four months back. 

Our personable host, Jamie Mitchell and Jojo dream and discuss...
 

0:00: Intro, Growing up in San Diego, Working w Dad Joe and his shop, Territorialism in La Jolla, San Diego grooming him for big waves, First trips to HI, Puerto Escondido for big waves
 
18:16: First proper big wave year (Mav’s, Outer Reefs, Todos), His trusty 9’8” gun, Derek Dunfee, Getting a college degree
 
30:12: Being a big wave surfer during COVID, Being a boatman at Tavarua, Getting on the BWWT, Fate of the alternates
 
47:28: Oahu Missile False alarm, 2018 Trifecta Swell (Jaws/Mavs/Todos)
 
56:58: Work with City of Hope cancer patients, Future big wave plans, Missing the big wave comps
 
1:10:28 : Jojo’s 5-to-Finish Questions
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This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The things this man has seen…
 
Welcome to the fifth installment of Late Drop - The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline each week — upcoming guests include Aaron Gold, Nic Lamb, Brian Keaulana and others.  Stay tuned here for more.
 
When you talk about those rare humans so innately skilled at survival that you could drop them off on a desert island, and they’d be perfectly fine…yeah, Mark Healey’s done that (voluntarily) more than a few times. The first time, for instance, was when he was a teenage grom on a Rusty trip to Tavarua, Fiji, and purposely missed his flight home so he could castaway. Since then, the list of his expertise — from big-wave surfer, freediver, spear-fisherman, conservationist, skydiver, bow hunter, to Hollywood stuntman — grows. Like his lung capacity. A man whose name will forever be etched into big wave history’s “Best Of” pages, Mark Healey and podcast host, Jamie Mitchell, engage — and every minute is a pleasure.
 
 
 0:00 Fatherhood, Childhood/Growing up on North Shore, Endless potential of Ocean, One-board-a-year days, Rusty Tavarua trip, Being a boatman at Tavarua
 
14:52 Rivalry with Jamie Sterling, First Pipeline session, Freediving by himself, Outer Reef tow vs paddle era, Big Wave traveling/dangers
 
28:55 The allure of potential/frontiers in big wave surfing, Lessons from bowhunting, Parallels between surfing and hunting, Questioning “real food”
 
39:22 Competitive spearfishing/freediving, Mark’s training routine, Coping mechanisms, Mind Control
 
48:47 Healey Water Ops, Stuntman work in Hawaii, Gnarly stunts
 
58:03 Craziest big wave moments, Near death at Jaws, Breath-holding reality, Compartmentalization in stressful moments
 
1:11:01 Current big wave goals, View of the new, younger big wave generation, Resurgence of tow-surfing, Rush Randall’s influence, Big wave surfing’s progressive influence   
 
1:22:19 Being a new father, Mark’s 5-to-Finish Questions

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When it comes to big-wave personalities, there’s certainly all types, but traditionally, these personalities have been, well…big. There’s the “Are you not impressed?” chest beaters. There’s the incorrigible closeout-slab-hunting hellmen (and women). There’s the egomaniacs.  The wanna-be Lairds. The actual Laird. And then there’s a rare gem like San Clemente’s Rusty Long. The quiet-type. The epitome of anti-ego. A guy who’s been rushing in extremely heavy water since his teens (often, with younger brother Greg Long), Rusty’s created a life devoted to big-wave riding, with various homes in strategic big wave zones across the globe. Lucky for us, longtime Rusty-fan and podcast host, Jamie Mitchell, coaxed more than a few words and great stories from the elusive dark horse, himself, in Episode 4. Tune in and enjoy.

 0:00: COVID quarantine in Baja, Rusty’s childhood in San Clemente, Teaching water safety to kids, Dad and other lifeguards’ influence in life

14:10: Being a junior lifeguard, Point when Rusty began to surf bigger waves, Pivotal Todos Santos session, Pushing it with brother Greg, Chris Bertish sightings

25:01: The Point when Rusty was fully committed to hunting big waves, Buying Jet Skis, Cortes Bank sessions

32:25: Innovations in big wave surfing, Big wave exploration, Puerto Escondido connection

41:47: Favorite places around the world, Crazy Ireland swell, Great people in raw places, Homes in Madeira and Puerto

52:14: Cycle of West swells, Maverick’s, Wipeout advice at Mav’s

59:46: Current big wave inspirations, Thoughts on the state of big wave surfing, Resurgence of tow surfing, Airs in big waves

1:04:06: The future of big wave surfing, Rusty’s 5-to-Finish Questions

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com