Material Wise

Jay Adams is co-founder of Brass Clothing, a curated collection of women's foundation pieces designed with impeccable style, fit and easy-to-care-for materials. Jay launched Brass with partner, Katie Demo, in 2014 after both being fed up with fast fashion, and closets full of crap. Jay says Brass looks at a woman's entire life, and how her wardrobe interacts with It, before designing pieces that simplify her wardrobe - so she can focus on things that really matter to her. According to Jay, Brass has built a strong community of smart, successful, strong, and passionate women who've been a big part of the brand's success. Jay and chat about her background, how she and her partner have built such a strong community – and Brass' new inclusive sizing. And of course, we dive into the materials she selects and sources for this unique apparel collection. www.brassclothing.com.

As we are deep in production with our new Material Wise 2019 episodes, we wanted to review a few of last year's episodes and recap some of the highlights. We had a great year speaking with Jill McGowan with Jill McGowan, Inc., Erin Bornstein with Timberland, Miles Spadone with Spadone Home, Nick Armentrout with Ramblers Way, Rob Naughter with Patagonia, Justin Seale with Architec and Myrand Caputo with Bespoke Branded Fit. We learned that transparency, social responsibility throughout the supply chain has become increasingly important as is designing products with longevity in mind. New body scanning techniques are trending as people are demanding a more custom fit. Among all my discussions, there is one common thread, and that is great products are inspired by great materials. I hope you enjoy the highlights!

With her 20 plus years of technical pattern making and product development experience with brands such as Hanes, Dick's Sporting Goods and L.L. Bean, Myranda Caputo knows a thing or two about how a garment should fit. Upon seeing the recent shift among brands focusing more on developing customized fit standards tailored to their target markets and customers, Myranda realized the growing need for her technical skills and founded Bespoke Branded Fit. In this episode, we talk about how brands go about developing their own fit standards and why there can be such a discrepancy. Myranda shares how function and aesthetic, not to mention materials, are key factors when it comes to fit. She also shares how brands are helping consumers purchase the right size online via interactive fit charts, 3D body scans and more. For more information on Bespoke Branded Fit, visit www.bespokebrandedfit.com.

After 20 plus years working in retail, product management and design for notable outdoor-related companies, Justin Seale decided that the time was right to create his own brand – but it had to be different. Combining his sage years of experience with his love of travel, design and textiles, Justin founded ArchiTec – a streamlined collection of men's adventure apparel based on sustainable materials and inspirational places around the world – designed and built in California. Justin talks about how each collection leads with a particular textile and location in mind to create an experience around a product. He also shares how his trip to New Zealand to meet the growers who produce ArchiTec's merino wool inspired his new fall'18 'Farm to Wear' New Zealand collection.

With the desire of working on material development with finished goods brands, Rob Naughter came knocking on Patagonia's door after spending six years as a development engineer with PrimaLoft, a premium insulation for outdoor and home furnishings products. While it took the reputable three interviews, Rob finally landed at Patagonia's Ventura headquarters as Materials R&D Manager 11 years ago and has moved up the ranks to Patagonia's Director of Material Innovation and Impact. Rob has pioneered several of the company's most notable sustainable/tracible material developments such as its 100% Traceable Down Standard and the recent launch of its down-like PlumaFill, which took ten years to come to market. Given that Patagonia fails nearly all materials tested in its labs, we talk about Patagonia's increased bandwidth on material development and what makes a good material partner. We also discuss the evolution of the Patagonia customer and the company's love-hate relationship with polyester.

Nick Armentrout is the supply chain manager of Ramblers Way, a high-quality, sustainable apparel brand founded by Tom and Kate Chappell, founders of the infamous Tom's of Maine toothpaste and other all-natural products. Nick shares how his background in animal science led him to find and establish relationships Rambouillet sheep, the knitters, dyers and manufactures that all go into the crafting of Ramblers Way apparel. Nick also dives into Ramblers Way's Global Organic Textile (GOTS) and Cradle to Cradle certifications and how they influence today's consumer.

Miles and Molly Spadone are the brother/sister duo of Spadone Home, an evocative handmade collection of Art Deco influenced terrazzo vessels and Brutalist style concrete planters and bookends. Offspring of artistic parents, Miles shares how he and his sister created Spadone Home, what it's like working with a sibling, and the never-ending quest to find unique materials and methods to create their distinctive designs.

Footwear designer, Erin Bornstein shares how she created the rare opportunity to have full control of the design vision without direct input of other product managers or merchandisers, for a new women's Timberland collection, which will be available at retail this fall. Erin says her new footwear collection has a kick-*** attitude, just like the woman she's designing it for. Erin also talks about Timberland's stand on sourcing sustainable materials and commitment to social initiatives.

While working as a pattern maker at the Hathaway shirt company – a famed menswear manufacturer, Jill McGowan discovered that there was a big gap between the way men's and women's apparel of equal value was made. In 1994, Jill set out to improve the standard of women's clothing and launched a signature line of shirts under the Jill McGowan brand. Today Jill McGowan products can be found in over 300 specialty shops across the country, its flagship store in Freeport, ME and on its ecommerce site. Jill shares her views on what makes a great shirt, finding the right materials that provide comfort and style, how she partners with suppliers. We also discuss the state of retail, fast fashion and the ever-evolving consumer.

Material Wise is a new podcast created for those involved with or interested in the textiles and materials market hosted by Nancy Fendler, principal of Fendler PR, a communications firm specializing in materials and ingredient marketing. Driven by her deep curiosity, Nancy sets out to speak with designers, product developers and guests in the outdoor, fashion, home furnishings and other industries about what inspires and influences them to create, why and how they select the materials they choose and the relationships they've built with their customers and industry.