Paperback Perfumes

Paperback Perfumes

By Clare PresserArtsBooksFashion & Beauty
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Paperback Perfumes episodes

  • The Barbershop
    “What you’re trying to say is that it’s easier for you to hide in your own darkness, than emerge cloaked in your own vulnerability. No better, but easier. However, the longer you hold it in, the more likely you are to suffocate.At some point, you must breathe.”― Caleb Azumah Nelson, Open Water


    In this episode of Paperback Perfumes, I’m joined by UK-based writer and podcaster Haydn, whose work explores fragrance, male grooming, and gifting. He writes for publications like Grazia, Rakes Sense, and The Perfume Society.


    Haydn shares his journey from a long career in music to discovering fragrance as a new form of self-expression. We talk about the connections between scent and storytelling, and how both can be powerful tools for exploring identity, memory, masculinity, and vulnerability.


    We also dive into the inspirations behind his podcast Man in the Mirror, and the unique conversations happening in place place like barbershops and what mean see when they pause and reflect about themselves with each other.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Sisters B4 Misters - Jusbox

    Versace Man Eau Fraîche - Versace

    Voyeur Verde - Maya Njie

    Teddy the Perfumer

    Nordic Cedar - Maya Njie

    French Waltz - Golf Le Fleur

    Melody - Miller Harris


    Book discussed:

    Open Water - Caleb Azumah Nelson


    Find Haydn here:

    Instagram:

    @yousmellgreatwhatisit

    @maninthemirrorpod


    TikTok:

    @yousmellgreatwhatisit

    YouTube from Barnes Fragrance Fair

    ’Men Smell’ panel discussion



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 7 min
  • All Systems
    “And in their corner all they had was Murderbot, who just wanted everyone to shut up and leave it alone so it could watch the entertainment feed all day.”― Martha Wells, All Systems Red


    This episode’s guest is Anjali Vandemark, an artisanal perfumer and writer based on Bainbridge Island, WA. Born and raised in India, Anjali’s early life was steeped in the rich aromas of tropical flowers, attars, incense, and spices—experiences that now shape her handcrafted, small-batch perfumes.


    Anjali shares her unique journey from India to the United States, exploring how her deep connection to scent evolved into a creative practice that blends cultural heritage with the art of perfumery. We talk about the significance of fragrance in Indian society, the challenges of translating scent across cultures, and the surprising role of olfaction in science fiction storytelling.


    Our conversation also touches on gender and identity in fragrance, including Anjali’s reflections on the character Murderbot. Throughout, she emphasizes the power of scent to evoke memory, emotion, and a deeper understanding of self and culture.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Shalimar - Guerlain

    Delina - Parfums de Marly

    Monsoon Madness - Anjali

    Tiger Bright - Anjali

    Sea Glass - Anjali

    Lunar Dust - Mabelle O’rama

    Synthetic Jungle (Nature) - Frederic Malle


    Books discussed:

    Sandalwood and Carrion: Smell in Indian Religion and Culture - James M. McHugh

    The Hunger Games - Suzanne Collins

    All Systems Red - Martha Wells


    Find Anjali here:

    Instagram:

    @anjali_perfumes


    TikTok:

    @Anjali_Perfumes

    Website:

    anjaliperfumes.com



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    59 min
  • Confessions
    "We don't just travel on roads and seas. We travel in stories and in dreams."― Joanne Harris, Vianne


    This episode’s guest is Sarah McCartney, owner and perfumer of the artisan fragrance house, 4160 Tuesdays.


    Sarah is a self-taught perfumer with a background in writing, and her work is known for blending playfulness with complexity—often drawing on personal memories, cultural touchstones, and storytelling. She’s passionate about sharing knowledge, teaching fragrance workshops, and helping others connect to scent in meaningful, personal ways.


    We talk about the process of creating Vianne’s Confession, a perfume inspired by the character Vianne Rocher from Chocolat and, more recently, Vianne by Joanne Harris, and . We explore how how literature can spark the imagination in scent-making, as well as evoke powerful nostalgia, the role of human chemistry in how we experience perfume, and how scent weaves into the rituals and rhythms of everyday life.


    Fragrance mentioned:

    Rhubarb & Custard - 4160 Tuesdays

    Hammersmith Tea & Biscuits - 4160 Tuesdays

    Vianne’s Confession - 4160 Tuesdays

    Aromatics Elixir - Clinque

    Verdant - Eau de Boujee

    Complicated Shadows - 4160 Tuesdays


    Book discussed:

    Vianne - Joanne Harris

    Chocolat - Joanne Harris

    Rivers of London (Series) - Ben Aaronovitch


    Find 4160 Tuesdays (and Sarah) here:

    Instagram:

    @4160tuesdays

    @sarahmccartneythinks

    Website:

    4160tuesdays.com



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 21 min
  • Optimism
    “There was no stopping us now. We had running water, a heater, a cooker and a road. We were fast becoming slaves again to all the things we had come to this benighted spot to flee.”― Chris Stewart, Driving Over Lemons: An Optimist in Andalucía

    In this episode I talk with Helida Dodd, founder of Marabella Perfumes. Helida shares her unexpected journey from a career in industrial engineering and supply chain management to becoming a perfumer dedicated to crafting sustainable, high-quality scents.


    We explore Helida’s unique understanding of team dynamics and how that flows perfumery, the role of collaboration in her work, and the inspiration behind her some of her scents. Helida also reflects on the importance of optimism — in creativity, in life, and in the connections we make through scent. And of course, we end with a book pairing that captures the spirit of joy and resilience.


    Fragrance mentioned:

    Ever Present - Marbella Perfumes


    Book discussed:

    Driving Over Lemons: An Optimist in Andalucía - Chris Stewart


    Find Marbella Perfumes here:

    Instagram:

    @marbellaperfumes

    Website:

    marbellaperfumes.com


    LinkedIn:

    linkedin.com/in/helidadodd/


    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records



    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    54 min
  • Aesthetics
    “Absence is the figure of privation; simultaneously, I desire and I need. Desire is squashed against need: that is the obsessive phenomenon of all amorous sentiment.”― Roland Barthes, A Lover's Discourse: Fragments


    In this episode, Liam Sardea, philosopher of aesthetics and Brand Experience Manager at NOAH, discusses the transformative power of creativity and imagination in everyday life. Drawing on his PhD research and Roland Barthes' ideas, he explores how meaning, emotion, and narrative arise through sensory encounters, especially scent.


    Liam shares his personal fragrance journey, the evolution of perfume blogging, and the intersection of philosophy, aesthetics, and olfaction. The conversation also covers the cultural and historical roles of perfume and its connection to literature.


    Advocating for “olfactory culture,” Liam emphasises sensory literacy and meaningful dialogue about smell, reflecting on how scent, memory, and imagination shape our understanding of ourselves and the world.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Obsession Man - Calvin Klein

    Bang - Marc Jacobs

    Poivre Samarcande - Hermes

    Brin de Reglisse - Hermes

    Tobacco Vanille - Tom Ford 

    Jicky - Guerlain

    Futur - Robert Piguet

    Feminite du Bois - Serge Lutens

    Une Amourette Roland Mouret - Etat Libre d'Orange

    Fille en Aiguilles - Serge Luten 

    Nuit de Noel - Caron

    Cuir d'Ange - Hermes

    Cuir Ottoman - Parfum d'Empire


    Book discussed:

    A Lover’s Discourse: Fragments - Roland Barthes


    Find Liam here:

    Instagram:

    @liamsardea


    Website:

    liamsardea.com



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 22 min
  • Kings and Heroes
    “He looked at the walls, awed at the heights his people had achieved and for a moment -- just a moment -- all that lay behind him passed from view.”― Herbert Mason Translation, The Epic of Gilgamesh


    Ashek Zubayer, the talented perfumer behind the innovative Byermia fragrances, shares his fascinating and unique journey into the captivating world of perfumery in this episode. Throughout our conversation, Ashek details how his deep passion for scents gradually evolved and blossomed into the creation of his artisanal brand.


    We discusses the rich cultural inspirations behind his first carefully curated line of fragrances, with each scent symbolizing different important life stages. There is also an in-depth look into the complexities of his second fragrance line, where Ashek highlights the storytelling elements and the mythological influences that shape his fragrance creation process.


    Additionally, Ashek thoughtfully connects his artistic work to the ancient epic poem Gilgamesh, drawing meaningful parallels between the profound themes of triumph and loss found both in his fragrances and within the timeless narrative of the poem.


    Fragrances mentioned (all Byermia):

    Epoch Series -

    Akura

    Pushpak

    Udbaha

    Agrani


    Tabac Sura


    Folklore Series -

    Tiger Rouge

    Ambrosia

    Ember Shaan


    More about Gilgamesh:

    Wikipedia article

    The king who refused to die: the Anunnaki and the search for immortality - Zecharia Sitchin

    Epic of Gilgamesh - In Our Time podcast episode


    Find Byermia here:

    Instagram:

    @byermia_fragrance

    Website:

    byermiafragrance.com



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    59 min
  • Smelling Trees
    Be it Pine, Juniper or Bay - Tanin, Resin, Leaf Litter, Wood Smoke or Quinine…


    This episode explores the rich, invisible world of smell — and I use that word very deliberately — with my guest Frauke Galia, host of An Aromatic Life, a podcast that elevates the sense of smell in a world dominated by sight and sound.

    Together, we dive into how fragrance can shape identity, stir memory, and deepen emotional connection. We also talk a lot about trees — including 13 ways to smell them — and how reconnecting with the natural world through scent can be both grounding and transformative.

    Smell is such an evocative sense, and in this conversation, we explore how it can be a powerful form of self-expression and a bridge to the world around us.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Go and smell your favourite tree: those mentioned are the Apple Tree and the Strawberry Gum


    Books mentioned:

    Thirteen Ways to Smell a Tree - David George Haskell


    Find An Aromatic Life here:

    Instagram:

    @an_aromatic_life

    Website/Substack:

    anaromaticlife.com



    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    55 min
  • Electric Sheep
    “An android,” he said, “doesn’t care what happens to another android. That’s one of the indications we look for."“Then,” Miss Luft said, “you must be an android.”
    ― Philip K. Dick

    In this episode I’m joined by content creator, photographer, and fellow sci-fi geek LC James to explore the fragrant and philosophical depths of Philip K. Dick’s literary work

    Together, we dive into the ethical implications of empathy in distinguishing humans from androids, and how scent plays a subtle but powerful role in the narrative.

    We talk about the concept of waste ( as well as kipple), and how speculative fiction can inspire new ways of thinking about fragrance.

    Through our conversation, we reflect on the personal connections we form with scent — and how those connections shape our identities, memories, and even our humanity.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Nasomatto - Blamage

    L’Eau Maliz - Bursting Life

    Eau de Bougie - Verdant

    Sarah Baker - Peach’s Revenge

    Liis Floating

    Books mentioned:

    Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? - Philip K.Dick


    Find LC James here:

    Instagram:

    @nearlynoseblind


    TikTok:

    @nearlynoseblind




    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records



    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 5 min
  • Fairy Tales
    “The first function of mythology is showing everything as a metaphor to transcendence”. - Joseph Campbell


    In this episode, I sit down with Michael Nordstrand, a renowned perfumer and the visionary founder of Mythologist Studio. Michael takes us on an aromatic journey into the world of perfumery, where he reveals the profound importance of mythology and storytelling in the creation of fragrances.

    Throughout our conversation, Michael shares his creative process, emphasizing the significance of raw materials and the delicate art of dilution. I was captivated by Michael's exploration of the connections between fairy tales, the hero's journey, and the emotional responses evoked by scent. We discuss the rich tapestry and themes of Scandinavian fairy tales, discussing how these timeless stories and the enchanting illustrations by Kay Nielsen inspire and influence a creative mind. Nielsen's intricate and magical illustrations bring to life the mythical elements that resonate deeply within any artist.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Bad Lily - Tale Parfum

    Mousse de Saxe - Fabriques de Laire

    Galop - d'Hermès

    The Moon and I - Floraïku


    Books mentioned:

    Lord of the Rings - JRR Tolkien

    In Powder and Crinoline: Old Fairy Tales - Anne Carter

    East of the Sun and West of the Moon: Old Tales from the North - Peter Christen Asbjørnsen

    Twelve Dancing Princesses (Fairy Tale)

    The Three Princesses of Whiteland (Fairy Tale)

    Rikki-Tikki-Tavi - Rudyard Kipling


    Find Michael and Mythologist Studio here:

    Instagram:

    @michaelnordstrandperfume

    @mythologiststudio

    Website:

    mythologiststudio.com


    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 29 min
  • Two Different Types
    “How cyclical and bittersweet for a child to retrace the image of their mother. For a subject to turn back to document their archivist.”
    ― Michelle Zauner, Crying in H Mart


    This episode’s guest is Thomas Dunckley — fragrance expert, six-time Jasmine Award winner, and the voice behind the much-loved blog The Candy Perfume Boy. Thomas has made it his mission to make perfume accessible, joyful, and free from snobbery through his podcast Making Scents Make Sense.


    Our conversation explores the deep connections between fragrance, memory, and identity. We talked about how scent can transport us through time, evoke powerful emotions, and reflect who we are — or who we want to be. Thomas shares his thoughts on the importance of inclusivity in the fragrance community and how personal experiences shape the way we interact with fragrance.


    We also discussed Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner, reflecting on the book’s themes of grief, cultural identity, and the mother-child bond. Thomas paired these themes with fragrance recommendations that speak to comfort, nostalgia, and the emotional resonance of scent.

    Whether you're a seasoned perfume lover or just beginning to explore the world of fragrance, this episode is a celebration of scent as story — and the joy it brings to our lives.


    Fragrances mentioned:

    Pho Breakfast - d’Naam

    Concombre d'Inde et Menthe de Syrie - Officine Universelle Buly

    Sunday - Arielle Shoshana

    Vetiveria -Ormonde Jayne

    Eau de Magnolia - Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

    Lupin Meadow - Nancy Meiland

    Allure - Chanel

    Angel - Mugler

    Book mentioned:

    Crying in the H Mart - Michelle Zauner


    Find Thomas here:

    Instagram: @makingscentsmakesense

    Website: thomasdunckley.com

    Find Japanese Breakfast here:

    japanesebreakfast.rocks


    Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1 hr 11 min

About Paperback Perfumes

From the publisher's feed

Welcome to Paperback Perfumes! The host Clare Presser is a Librarian with a fascination for fragrances and their capacity to evokes memories and experiences through the activation of the olfactory…