Paperback Perfumes

Delphine McPhilimey brings a quiet, intentional artistry to the world of natural perfumery, and this episode explores the depth behind her craft. A French‑born artisan perfumer, her path has taken her from traditional perfumery studies to hands‑on workshops in Bali, eventually leading her to establish Olfactora in West Leederville, Western Australia. Her work is shaped by a deep respect for natural materials, the discipline of classical technique, and the slow, thoughtful rituals that give fragrance its emotional resonance.

Olfactora reflects this philosophy: a studio devoted to the beauty of considered creation, where people can learn, explore, and experience scent in its most authentic form. Delphine blends traditional craft with a contemporary, sustainable approach, creating perfumes that feel personal, expressive, and grounded in nature. Every experience in her studio honours refined craftsmanship and the quiet depth of raw materials.

This episode also steps into the whimsical world of ‘Before the Coffee Gets Cold’ by Toshikazu Kawaguchi, a Japanese novel that explores time, acceptance, and connection - an unexpected but fitting companion to Delphine’s approach to scent. Through storytelling, philosophy, and the discipline of natural perfumery, she reveals how fragrance becomes a bridge between memory, emotion, and the moments that shape us.

Fragrances mentioned:

Coffee Break - Maison Margiela/Replica

Awake - Akro

Ember Shan - Byermia

Brown Flowers - D.S. & Durga

Opium - Yves Saint Laurent

Book discussed:

Before the Coffee Gets Cold - Toshikazu Kawaguchi

Find Delphine and Olfactora on

Instagram:

@olfactora

Website:

olfactora.com.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Grimoire Perfumes founder Troy (Trung) Vu joins us to explore the rich intersection of fragrance, aesthetics, mythology, and artistic expression. A self‑taught perfumer, Troy’s creative path winds through years as a classically trained dancer, a makeup artist, and a decade spent in luxury retail and cosmetics. These experiences shape his approach to scent as an invisible art form built on instinct, memory, structure, and imagination.

Troy shares how the golden era of perfumery—from the 1920s to the late ’90s—continues to influence his work, inspiring fragrances that are bold, character‑driven, and unburdened by trend. His world is steeped in folklore, ritual, the macabre, and global mythologies, all of which inform the tone and storytelling behind each Grimoire creation.

We also dive into the role of aesthetics through exploring classic literature the The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde.

Fragrances mentioned:

Caleche - Hermes 

Gold Woman - Amouage

Ambre Eccentrico - Armani Prive

Florabotanica - Balenciaga

Garden Roses - Burberry 

Book discussed:

The Picture of Dorian Gray - Oscar Wilde 

Find Troy and Grimoire Parfums on

Instagram:

@troyperfumes

@grimoireparfums

Website:

grimoireparfums.com.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Flowers, food, and fragrance have long been powerful forms of expression—anchoring memory, shaping culture, and awakening creativity through the senses. In this episode, we explore Mastering the Art of French Cooking through a multisensory lens, where aroma is just as essential as technique. This conversation invites us to consider cooking not only as craft, but as a richly layered sensory experience—one that engages smell, taste, touch, and imagination.

Our guest is Jeffrey Paul Ames, also known as The Aromatic Gourmet—a chef and botanical perfumer whose work sits at the intersection of gastronomy and fragrance. Drawing inspiration from his Italian family’s aromatic kitchen, as well as his teaching at the Institute for Art and Olfaction, Jeffrey has developed The Aromatic Gourmet, a thoughtful class series that explores cross‑modal sensorial practices through hands‑on, in‑person sessions. Each class guides participants through an olfacto‑gustatory journey using aromatic flowers, edible flowers, hydrosols, botanical extracts, and traditional techniques such as maceration, all grounded in cultural and historical context.

In this episode, Jeffrey shares how he creates what he calls “edible perfumes” through salts, syrups, spices, and thoughtful food preparation—revealing how fragrance can transform flavor and deepen our connection to what we eat. He offers creative insights into aroma, craft, and sensory awareness, along with simple, accessible ways to bring more intention, color, and joy into everyday meals. If you’ve ever wanted to cook like a perfumer, use scent to anchor memory, or rediscover mindfulness through food, this episode is truly a feast for the senses.

Fragrances mentioned:

Bois des Îles (Excluif) - Chanel

L’Heure Bleu - Guerlain

Mitsouko - Guerlain

Book discussed:

Mastering the Art of French Cooking - Julia Child

France is a Feast: The Photographic Journey of Paul and Julia Child - Alex Prud’Homme & Katie Pratt

Extra research:

The History Chicks podcast on Julia Child

Find the Aromatic Gourmet on

@thearomaticgourmet

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This conversation with George Chlouk moves through fragrance, philosophy, and the emotional terrain of being human in challenging times. We begin with the cultural depth of Lebanese perfumery—its reliance on local flora, the influences of tourism and tradition, and ancient techniques like enfleurage that still echo through contemporary scent‑making.

From there, the discussion expands into the transformational ideas found in The Book of Mirdad: The Strange Story of a Monastery Which Was Once Called The Ark. Its reflections on letting go, navigating change, and embracing uncertainty become touchpoints as George and our host consider how individuals evolve—much like raw materials becoming something entirely new through alchemy.

The conversation doesn’t shy away from the complexities of the world around us and the dissonance of trying to maintain “normalcy” in the presence of violence. Literature, spirituality, and fragrance all emerge as grounding forces—ways of processing reality and making meaning when the world feels unstable.

Through it all, scent remains a vital thread. George offers insight into how fragrance interacts with identity and place: how comfort, memory, culture, and aspiration shape what we wear and how we move through the world.

Fragrances mentioned:

Eau de Campagne - Sisley

Édition Imperiale - Courvoisier

Bois d’Encens - Armani Prive

Book discussed:

The Book of Mirdad: The Strange Story of a Monastery Which Was Once Called The Ark - Mikhail Naimy

Find George on

Instagram: @intuitive_alchemy_

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode we explore the space where books and fragrance meet, guided by writer and sensory storyteller Rowan Ambrose. Rowan’s life is shaped by vivid experiences—sailing tall ships, gardening, travelling widely, and savouring the simple pleasures of perfume, fine tea, chocolate, and good coffee. These influences infuse her writing with texture and atmosphere.

Rowan now helps businesses find their voice through clear, evocative copy—whether it’s web pages, newsletters, product descriptions, or her speciality: sensory and perfume writing. She brings brands to life with words so her clients don’t have to wrestle with them. She also helps people to find their way to their perfect garden, no matter the size, skill or time availble to tend to it.

In our conversation, we discuss low‑maintenance gardening, seasonal connection, and the themes of land and identity in Lucy Holland’s Sister Song. And of course, we pair the novel with a fragrance that captures its earthy, mythic spirit.

Fragrances mentioned:

Firewater - Jorum Studio

Cuir Pampas - Frassai

Fille en Anguille ("Girl in (Pine) Needles" - I got that wrong) - Serge Lutens

Silphium - Stora Skuggan

Feuille - Miskeo

Been Trying to Meet You - Nosu

Forbidden Bloom - Mabelle O’Rama

Phoenix Flame - Mabelle O’Rama

Undergrowth - Rook

Sain No More - Nosu

Personne - Iconofly

Eucris - Geo. F Trumper

Book discussed:

Sistersong - Lucy Holland

Find Rowan on

Instagram: @rowan_ambrose

Website: rowan-ambrose.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

It feels like Wuthering Heights has swept back into the cultural conversation—whether it’s through rereads of the novel, rewatches of film adaptations, or simply the collective fascination with its gothic storms and tangled emotions. And honestly… how could a librarian not wade into that literary storm?

In this episode, I’m joined by Suzy from Scent n’ Sensibility for a spirited exploration of Emily Brontë’s iconic novel. We try to touch on as many aspects as possible: its wild emotional extremes, its bleak and beautiful setting, the messy humanity of its characters, and the way this story somehow manages to linger darkly in the corner.

We also take a closer look at Emerald Fennell’s recent reimagining of the Wuthering Heights universe. How does it reshape Brontë’s themes? And where does it veer into territory that feels… let’s say, ambitiously debatable?

If you’re a gothic fiction fan, a fragrance nerd, or just someone who enjoys a bit of delicious literary chaos—this one’s for you.

Fragrances mentioned:

L'orpheline - Serge Lutens

Velvet Moss - Scent Trunk

Oud Infini - Dusita

Relique d’Amour - Oriza L. Legrand

Gorseland - Jorum Studios

Cabochard - Gres

Caleche - Hermes

Anglomania - Vivienne Westwood

Ectoplasm - Fantôme

Book discussed:

Wuthering Heights - Emily Brontë

Film discussed:

”Wuthering Heights” - Director Emerald Fennell 

Find Suzy on

Instagram: @scen.tnsensibility

TikTok: @scentnsensibility

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode, I’m joined (once again) by Fliss Walton, who helps me dive deep into my lifelong love for Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Together, we explore Lewis Carroll’s iconic story—its rich cultural history, its playful yet profound wordplay, and the many interpretations and adaptations that have kept Alice alive in our collective imagination. Fliss and I muse over how Alice has transcended literature to become a universal symbol of curiosity, identity, and childhood’s delightful absurdity.

As our conversation unfolds, we connect the sensory magic of Wonderland to the world of fragrance, exploring scents that capture the whimsy, oddity, and darker undertones woven through Carroll’s narrative. We reflect on how certain perfumes can evoke the surreal charm of the story, creating a multi‑sensory experience that brings Alice’s journey to life in an entirely new way. This episode blends literary exploration with olfactory adventure — a perfect listen for anyone who loves books, scent, or falling down rabbit holes.

Fragrances mentioned:

Undergrowth - Rook Perfumes 

Wander Through the Park - Miller Harris 

Queen - Eau de Boujee

Belle De Jour - ERIS Parfums

Comète - Chanel Exclusif 

Annabel's Birthday Cake - Marissa Zappas 

Tea for Two - L'Artisan Parfumeur

Milky Dragon - Isabelle Larignon

Delulu - .Oddity 

Dodo- Zoologist

Rabbit - Zoologist 

Dentelle au Coer- Henri Jacques

Haute Horopito - One Way Bridge

Cepes and Tuberose - Aftelier

Anonymity - Filigree & Shadow

Green Vetiver - Archer Farrar

Belle Âme - Les Abstraits

Book discussed:

The Annotated Alice - Lewis Carroll, edited by Martin Gardner 

Find Fliss on

Instagram: @fliss_sniffs_stuff

And Les Oderants

Instagram: @lesoderants

Youtube: Les Oderants Podcast

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode, I’m joined by Clayton Ilolahia, an Evaluation and Communication specialist at Fragrances of the World, to explore the rich intersection of art, commerce, and fragrance. Together, we discuss into how changes in the media landscape has transformed the perfume industry, reshaping not just marketing but the creative process itself. We also explore the evolving role of fragrance evaluators, the deeply subjective nature of smell, and the cultural ideas—past and present—that shape our sense of cleanliness, identity, and performance.

Clayton brings a wealth of knowledge from his global fragrance writing, formal training at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, and more than a decade of self-guided learning. His background in learning and development, working with brands like Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton (to name a few), adds an insightful dimension to our conversation. His passion for education and olfactory storytelling makes this a thoughtful exploration of the changing landscape of modern perfumery and how we socialise through our scent.

Fragrances mentioned:

L’eau d’Issey - Issey Miyake

Black Oregano - Atelier Materi

Blanche Bête - Liquides Imaginaires

Shalimar - Guerlain

Chypre (Le Chypre) - Coty

Fracas - Robert Piguet

Book discussed:

The Dirt on Clean: An Unsanitized History - Katherine Ashenburg

Find Clayton and Fragrances of the World online here

Instagram:

@clayton_ilolahia

@fragrancesoftheworld

Website:

fragrancesoftheworld.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Hosting this conversation with Alina Tadevosyan gave me the chance to learn about the powerful themes of Armenian cultural: resilience, identity and heritage preservation. Alina shared how everyday acts of cultural expression — from cooking traditional Armenian dishes to celebrating family milestones — function as meaningful forms of resistance and survival. We explored the role of storytelling in keeping collective memory alive and why these traditions remain essential to the Armenian community today.

Alina also spoke about founding ARAKYÁL, the luxury fragrance house she launched in 2025, inspired by her Armenian roots and the ancient spirit of her homeland. A lifelong creative, she has worked across classical singing, fashion design, graphic design and art direction, with scent becoming her newest medium of self‑expression. ARAKYÁL, meaning “apostle” in Armenian, reflects her belief that fragrance is a messenger — carrying memory, identity and quiet power. At its core, ARAKYÁL is about helping people wear their story.

Fragrances mentioned:

Elixir

Colour of Nur

Meron

Book discussed:

The Spice Box Letters - Eve Makis

Find Arakyal online here

Instagram:

@arakyal.official

Website:

www.arakyal.co

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

It feels surreal to start Season 3 of the podcast talking to Mandy Aftel—an extraordinary natural perfumer and author whose influence on the world of scent and creativity runs deep. As the founder of Aftelier Perfumes, Mandy hand‑crafts her perfumes in small batches in her Berkeley studio, bringing a sense of beauty and artistry to everyone who encounters her work.

Her contributions have earned wide recognition: Vogue has called her one of the industry’s “most prolific talents,” Vanity Fair has described her as an “angel of alchemy,” and Forbes has named her among the top bespoke perfumers in the world. She also serves as an advisor at The Institute for Art and Olfaction, which created the annual Aftel Award for Handmade Perfume in her honor, and she is the recipient of the Septimus Piesse Visionary Award for lifetime achievement. And then, of course, there is her micro museum, where you can see, touch and smell the history of perfumery.

In our conversation, Mandy dives into the creative journey behind her newest book, Symbolorium: The Secret Wisdom of Emblems. We explore the fascinating world of 1600s emblem books, the historical texts that inspire her, and the deep connections she sees between nature, art, and the craft of perfume. It’s a rich, inspiring discussion to kick off the season.

Fragrances mentioned:

Patchouli Noir - Mandy Aftel

Patchouli essential oil

Patchouli absolute

Oakmoss absolute

Book discussed:

Symbolorum: The Secret Wisdom of Emblems - Mandy Aftel

Find Mandy Aftel online here

Instagram:

@aftelierperfume

Website:

aftelier.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.