Paperback Perfumes

This is the last of the special spooky season series, as well as the final episode for season 1. It has been a true pleasure to talk to such a wide variety of guests, and this week's guest is no exception.

Nadia Vitlin is a perfumer who specializes in bespoke creations, scent visual art, and offers training for those interested in expanding their own knowledge. Nadia has spent ten years learning and developing her craft, and it was a delight to discuss a book that explores the grotesque aspects of material acquisition and the obsession that can come with possessing a scent.

Taking a concept and extending it beyond the realms of polite or sensible society can truly illustrate the edges of humanity and where the boundaries of good moral judgment lie. Can a scent or an aroma make us cross that boundary into madness? It's something to ponder as we approach Halloween, a time when boundaries notoriously blur.

Fragrances mentioned:

Fougère Royale - Houbigant Parfum

Jicky - Guerlain

Fleurs D'oranger - Serge Lutens

Sécrétions Magnifiques - Etat Libre d'Orange

Jasmin et Cigarette - Etat Libre d'Orange

Eau d'Hadrien - Annick Goutal

Books mentioned:

Perfume: The Story of A Murderer - Patrick Süskind

The Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination - Alain Corbin

Find Vistley on Instagram or on their website www.vitsley.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Let’s catch up with the second part of the red string, photo board and many drawing pins that is pulling together two more text and a few more fragrances with Nuri McBride

Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. In this episode we get a little medieval and discover the importance of humour, as well as bringing light to dark places and unknowable situations.

In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. Please do listen to Part 1 first, otherwise this conversation may not make as much sense as you would hope.

Fragrances mentioned:

Acqua Della Regina- Santa Maria Novella 

Dirty Velvet- Vilhelm Parfumerie

Books mentioned:

The Name of the Rose - Umberto Eco

A Natural History of Hell - Jeffery Ford

Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.

The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

How can one truly discuss the intricate topics of fragrance, death, and rituals without the invaluable insights of Nuri McBride? It seems only fitting that we take this opportunity to ‘resurrect’ a former guest who has made significant contributions to the conversation.

Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. I am genuinely pleased to welcome her back to the podcast for another of our winding book club and fragrant pairings.

In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. So, please sit back and immerse yourself in this deep dive into the fascinating realms of necromancy and world building in part one of our series.

Fragrances mentioned:

Lady Vengeance - Juliette Has A Gun

De Profundis - Serge Lutens

After Every Ounce of Joy (Leaves My Body) - Chris Rusak

Macbeth - Shakespeare Perfumes

Books mentioned:

Gideon the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir

Harrow the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir

Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures & Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs - Paul Koudounaris

The Foul and the Fragrant - Alain Corbin

Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.

The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Anxiety manifests in many forms, often creeping into our thoughts like a shadow in the dark. It amplifies our worries, transforming mundane situations into catastrophic scenarios. The potential for things to go horribly wrong becomes a breeding ground for horror, as our imagination runs wild with the possibilities: a simple drive turns into a nightmare, a casual conversation spirals into conflict, and unexpected events become the start of a downward spiral.

In this episode, I am speaking with Sarah, who is also known by her pen name S. Elizabeth. She is a talented writer and the author of three wild and wonderfully imaginative art books. In addition to her writing, she maintains a consistent blog and has a passion for savouring fragrances, particularly during the witching hour.

Fragrances mentioned:

Dark Season - Neil Morris

Tea Rose - Perfumers Workshop

Green Spell - Eris Parfum

Coven - Andrea Maack

Coriandre - Jean Couturier

Nuit de Bakerlite - Naomi Goodsir

Series 3: Incense - Kyoto - Comme des Garcons

Verveine d'Été - Le Jardin Retrouve

Books mentioned:

They Call Me Naughty Lola: Personal Ads from the London Review of Books - David Rose

Incidents Around the House - Josh Malerman

Thornhedge - T Kingfisher

Rebecca - Daphne de Maurier

Find S.Elizabeth on Instagram @ghoulnextdoor or follow the wide and varied links of books, blogs and all manner of other fun things on her linktr.ee

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode, we discuss Louise’s first book, Hungry Bones, which explores profound themes of loneliness and connection. We discuss how cultural perspectives on death shape our understanding and acceptance of it, and how open conversations can demystify and reduce the fear surrounding death.

Louise shares insights on how fragrance can evoke powerful memories and emotions tied to personal experiences, and the significant role scent plays in rituals and cultural practices surrounding death.

We explore how young adult literature, like This Poison Heart, addresses complex themes in accessible ways, with characters that are nuanced and relatable, reflecting real-life struggles - whilst emphasizes the importance of representation in literature, showcasing joy alongside struggle.

Fragrances mentioned:

Pikake Essential Oil

White Flower Oil

Aromatics Elixir - Clinique

Vive La Fleur - Flaner Fragrances

Books mentioned:

Hungry Bones - Louise Hung

This Poison Heart - Kalynn Bayron

Find Louise Hung on Instagram @louisehung1 or purchase a copy of ‘Hungry Bones’ from Scholastic (you can find it in larger book providers, but make good choices)

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode, we explore the intrinsic bond between humanity and companionship, emphasizing the profound impact that our beloved animal companions on our lives. Liz Moores, a self-taught perfumer and the creative force behind Papillion Perfumery, shares her insights on how these relationships with creatures and nature that inspire her craft. Liz captures the essence of cherished moments in her fragrances, each one a tribute to the memories - the scents serve as olfactory reminders of the joy and warmth that these relationships bring. Also discussed is the importance of connecting with nature and how best to express the change of seasons through scent.

Fragrances mentioned:

Anubis - Papillion

Epona - Papillion

Dryad - Papillion

Books mentioned:

Whispers Under Ground - Ben Aaronovitch

The Belgariad (series) - David Eddings

Orphia and Eurydicius - Elyse John

Find Papillion Perfumery on Instagram @papillonartisanperfumes or on their website papillonperfumery.co.uk

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Örök Fragrances is a freshly launched fragrance house that passionately focuses on the rich stories and unique experiences of the queer community, all intricately told through the captivating medium of scent. In this episode, I have the pleasure of speaking with John, the visionary founder of the new Melbourne-based brand, Örök Fragrances. These thoughtfully crafted fragrances range from the delightfully weird and otherworldly to the cleverly playful and cheeky. Each scent invites wearers to explore their identity and celebrate their individuality.

Fragrances mentioned:

5am - Örök Fragrances

Vapor Bloom -Örök Fragrances

Undergrowth - Örök Fragrances

Shoreline - Örök Fragrances

Rave - Örök Fragrances

Lavs - Filippo Sorcinelli

Yakisugi Wood - Flaner Fragrance

Books mentioned:

The Genesis of Misery - Neon Yang

Beasts and Beauty: Dangerous Tales - Soman Chainani

Out of the Blue - Jason June

Wicked and Divine: Fandemonium - Gillian McKelvie and Wilson Cowles

The Colour Of Magic - Terry Pratchett

Find Örök Fragrances on Instagram @orokfragrances or on their website orokfragrances.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

I had not been exploring the world of fragrance long before I heard about Olfiction and Boujee Bougies (I may or may not have paid closer attention because of the clever play on words). One half of this astounding word-smithery is creative director Nick Gilbert. Nick has done the hard yards behind a perfume counter and has worn many hats from fragrance trainer, evaluator, fragrance writer to marketer and consultant. He is also a real joy to talk to and we cover pride, shame, power dynamics and control, as well as that Cassis can be both wonderful note and smell like cat piss. The world is not so much either/or, but more and/and.

Fragrances mentioned:

Invisible Touch - La Perla

Quir - Boujee Bougies

Guilded - Boujee Bougies

Cardinal - Heeley

Armani Prive Bois d'Encens - Giorgio Armani

Books mentioned:

Tom of Finland: The Official Life and Work of a Gay Hero - F. Valentine Hooven III

A Master of Djinn - P. Djèlí Clark

Find Olfiction on Instagram @olfictionlimited or on their website olfiction.com

Find Boujee Bougies on Instagram @bougieboujees or on their website boujeebougies.com

Find Nick on Instagram @nickrgilbert

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

You have to be a little bit brave to start out as a fragrance reviewer in the world of social media these days. Charlotte has recently started reviewing scents and sewing as a side hustle to expand her collection. Charlotte like to deep dive into the history of fragrances as well as offer reviews of scents that she loves. She is a fan of a skin scent, so there are a few fragrances in her collection that are not the usual names that I would reach for. In the episode we discuss her love of the Tudors, big books and how sometimes audiobooks need a really good narrator.

Fragrances mentioned:

Citrus - Olfactive O

Bainin - Cloon Keen

Carnal Flower - Frederic Malle

Interlude Black Iris Man - Amouage

Radical Rose - Matiere Premiere

Hayat - Xerjoff

Scorpio Rising - Eris Parfums

Wonderwood - Comme Des Garcon

Copper - Comme Des Garcon

Books mentioned:

Wolf Hall - Hilary Mantel

City of Brass - S.A. Chakraborty

Find Charlotte on Instagram @scentsofdirection

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Jayanthan (Jay) Sriram is a PhD student at Concordia University in Montreal and a member of the German Academic Scholarship Foundation. He is in the Interdisciplinary Humanities PhD Program and coordinates the Exploration in Sensory Design research team. His research aims to highlight the importance of smell in aesthetics through functional scenting and perfumery. His PhD project, “The Life of the Ephemeral – Building Olfactory Aesthetics,” critiques the common disregard for physical and olfactory values, focusing on the perspectives of those who create and curate these experiences. Jay also has a music blog and an interest in reading Manga, which is reflected in the book choices for this episode.

Fragrances mentioned:

Dior Homme - Christian Dior

Fourreau Noir - Serge Lutens

Terroni - Orto Parisi

Moth - Zoologist

Books mentioned:

The Haçienda: How Not to Run a Club - Peter Hook

Berserk (Deluxe Volume 1) - Kentaro Miura

Music accompaniment:

Jay has recommended some follow on listening for the books mentioned

For The Hacienda - Querido by DJ Anderson do Paraiso

For Berserk, Umbilical by Thou

Read Jay’s research on Researchgate. You can also Find Jay on Instagram and explore his music blog.

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.