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I want to put a touch screen on my ender 2 pro without any knob on like I have on my ender cr-6se and was wondering if you know if I get a cr-6 one would it be plug and play?

I am looking at buying a new printer for myself as a Christmas present and right now there's two big questions in my mind. One is the Qidi plus 4. Seems like everything I want on paper with speed, accuracy, build quality and most important to me - Is its ability to print high temperature materials with the heated chamber.

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I recently purchased a Elegoo Neptune 4 Max to print large things.  It came with a 0.4mm nozzle for some reason.  My plan was to replace it with a 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle.  As a test I kept the 0.4mm on.  I scaled the object in Orca slicer and chose standard 0.2mm layer height.  Orca said it would take 7 days to print.  I added a second Elegoo Neptune 4 Max printer in Orca Slicer but this one with 0.6mm nozzle.  I chose standard layer height again (0.2mm).  I sliced the model and Orca said it would take 9 days.  Weird.  I selected extra draft layer height (0.28mm) and sliced it again.  Still, 9 days.  What am I missing here?  I expect a bigger nozzle and larger layers to print faster.  Is there a way to "download" updated profiles in Orca Slicer? Adam

Crazy idea: How feasible would adding pigment to the filament during printing be? The thought occurred to me while listening to you all discussing multi material systems. If you could just load spools of white or clear filament and then change pigment while printing, imagine the possibilities!

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Hey guys! Long time listener, first time caller!

Hi guys,I recently stumbled over your podcast and really like the bandwidth of topics you guys talk about! Currently I own 2x K1 Max but will soon replace 1 of them by a K2 Plus. You guys are talking a lot about creating your own configuration settings for materials and such.

Guy, JJ and Jerry just haviung a great discussion of what they've got going on and what new and coming in the 3D printer market.

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Last Spring I printed a simple 100mm cube with a centered 25mm circular hole out of black PLA using standard slicer settings (2 walls, 15% grid infill).  I intentionally left it outside on a black metal surface all summer, where it was exposed to plenty of heat (over 100 degrees some days), rain, hail, etc.  Today the part seems to be in essentially the same good condition as it was the day I printed it.  Yet I seem to hear that a lot PLA is not suitable for outdoor use, that other materials such as PETG and various others should be used for anything other than indoor decorations. 

Hey all. I've just gotten into 3d printing. I have the a1 mini and have been thoroughly enjoying it. I'm not really into exploring the tinkering aspect of 3d printing, but I'm curious: Just in terms of dollar cost, are there savings starting with a cheap tinkerers printer and then trying to upgrade to something like bambu level reliability? Loren

What is a common “mistake” you see in personally designed 3d models which make the prints less likely to succeed with good quality? How can a model be uniquely designed for 3d printing rather than traditional manufacturing methods?

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So I built my first V2.4 almost 2 and a half years ago and loved the machine and process so much that I had to have every printer in their Git repository (-legacy....should probably build it anyway)

Do you think that there is a mounting focus on speed?

All these upgrade to my machines and I still don't push them past 200mm/8000k velocity/acceleration

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Brians Questions:

What are some tool under $50 that you (or listeners) love. My examples:

Guys Questions:

Good day gentlemen

Huys Questions:

Hey guys. As always, appreciate the podcast and the information shared.

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Guy (& Guys):

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Hi guys, I listen to your podcast all the time and I have an ender two pro and recently the extruder got out of adjustment and I can’t seem to get it fine tuned back the way it was out of the box. It seems to print about an 8th inch of this woven basket, which is a lot of retraction and then it air prints after that, and I checked the nozzle it’s clear, but the filament gets stuck in the extruder and is smashed. Is there an easy way to adjust it? William

Really enjoyed the discussion around prempting filament issues. Thanks for chatting about it on the podcast. I've now racked up over 1000 hours of print time on the X1C with a range of filaments - and associated trouble shooting. I can vouch that not all filament is created equal! I've started designing custom parts for around the house, and i'm wondering...

Hi guys,

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Hello,

Hey guys love what you do, I’m listening to the “Worn Nozzle” Podcast. You mention the 3D Chameleon multi filament changer. You guys should try to get him on the show, https://www.3dchameleon.com/ . The inventor is Bill Steele (I may have misspelled the last name) and if you will look at the dates of releases, Bill’s invention predates all the multi filament changers even Prusa’s MMU, Bambu’s AMS, etc. He is up to version MK4 and this unit is amazing. Don’t dismiss it as a gimmick, it works better than all these others out there including the new “enraged rabbit carrot feeder”.  Chris