The Firn Line

By Pod PeakSports Wilderness

The Firn Line episodes

May 17, 2017 Short Ropes: The Risk Of Commitment
Nestled in the heart of the Alaska Range, lies what many believe to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world: Mount Huntington. Rising on all sides to form a 12,241 ft symmetrical pyramid of rock, snow and ice, Huntington has captured the imagination of bold and dedicated alpinists for decades.
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When the French Ridge was first climbed in 1964, the mountaineering world took notice. Then just a year later, when a young David Roberts and crew climbed the stunning west face, the mountaineering world was shocked. Both of these climbs raised the standard of what could be done in Alaska’s mountains, as well as setting a precedent for what future alpinists could expect on Huntington: remoteness, sustained, hard climbing, total commitment.
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By 2016, most of Huntington’s major features had been climbed. But one line, perhaps the most committing of them all, had yet to be ascended: The complete south ridge.
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Rising nearly 7,000 feet, the south ridge follows a serpentine spine of four jagged sub-peaks, each connected by delicate gendarmes and stacked cornices. Of the south ridge, David Roberts wrote, “It was not so much a ridge as five separate, serrated peaks, each increasingly higher.” Although a few teams had ascended the upper south ridge of Huntington over the years, few parties had considered a go at the complete south ridge. That is until this year.
•
Over a stretch of perfect weather in April 2017, American alpinists Jess Roskelly and Clint Helander made the first ascent of the complete south ridge in a single 5 day push. The climb was everything the duo had anticipated and more, pushing- the limits of their endurance, and forcing them to commit psychologically in a way neither of them had experienced in the past.
•
A few days later after they got down from the climb, I sat down with Jess and Clint in Anchorage, to recount this once in a lifetime adventure. The interview picks up on the second day of their trip, as they are crossing the east fork of the Tokositna Glacier, and starting the initial climbing up the first peak of the south ridge of Huntington.
53 min
May 17, 2017 Short Ropes: The Risk Of Commitment
Nestled in the heart of the Alaska Range, lies what many believe to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world: Mount Huntington. Rising on all sides to form a symmetrical pyramid of rock, snow and ice, Huntington has captured the imagination of bold and dedicated alpinists for decades.
When the French Ridge was first climbed in 1964, the mountaineering world took notice. Then just a year later, when a young David Roberts and crew climbed the stunning west face, the mountaineering world was shocked. Both of these climbs raised the standard of what could be done in Alaska’s mountains, as well as setting a precedent for what future alpinists could expect on Huntington: remoteness, sustained, hard climbing, total commitment.
By 2016, most of Huntington's major features had been climbed. But one line, perhaps the most committing of them all, had yet to be ascended: The complete south ridge. Rising nearly 7,000 feet, the south ridge follows a serpentine spine of four jagged sub-peaks, each connected by delicate gendarmes and stacked cornices. Of the south ridge, David Roberts wrote, “It was not so much a ridge as five separate, serrated peaks, each increasingly higher.” Although a few teams had ascended the upper south ridge of Huntington over the years, few parties had considered a go at the complete south ridge. That is until this year.
Over a stretch of perfect weather in April 2017, American alpinists Jess Roskelly and Clint Helander made the first ascent of the complete south ridge in a single 5 day push. The climb was everything the duo had anticipated and more, pushing- the limits of their endurance, and forcing them to commit psychologically in a way neither of them had experienced in the past.
A few days later after they got down from the climb, I sat down with Jess and Clint in Anchorage, to recount this once in a lifetime adventure. The interview picks up on the second day of their trip, as they are crossing the east fork of the Tokositna Glacier, and starting the initial climbing up the first peak of the south ridge of Huntington.
The Risk Of Commitment_Mix 01

0 min
May 04, 2017 Alaska Ranger: Mark Westman
Mark Westman is one of Alaska's most prolific alpinists. On Denali alone, Westman has climbed a myriad of monumental routes including the Cassin Ridge, Isis Face, Denali Diamond and Slovak Direct.
On episdode 05, Westman traces his roots in the outdoors, the important partnerships in his life and the challenges he's faced in and out of the mountains.
1 hr 2 min
May 04, 2017 Alaska Ranger: Mark Westman
Mark Westman is one of Alaska's most prolific alpinists. On Denali alone, Westman has climbed a myriad of monumental routes including the Cassin Ridge, Isis Face, Denali Diamond and Slovak Direct. He's also climbed a number of important routes on other Alaska Range peaks including Mount Hunter, Mount Silverthrone and Mount Huntington.
On episode 05, Westman traces his roots in the outdoors, the important partnerships in his life and the challenges he's faced in and out of the mountains. Check out some of the episode photos below:
Ep 05_Alaska Ranger_Mark Westman_Mix 03
0 min
April 20, 2017 Short Ropes: Chitistone Chuckles
Cover: Dustin Eroh leads Blackbird Falls in Chitina, Alaska (Photo: Andrew Burr)
In February, 2016 Dusty Eroh, Andrew Burr, Scott Adamson and Todd Tumolo rode, pushed and postholed their fatbikes up the Nizina River to the mythical frozen waterfalls of the Chitistone valley.
In Episode 04, Dusty tells the story first-hand, reflects on his time with Scott and discusses how he got his nickname, "Dirty D."
48 min
April 20, 2017 Short Ropes: Chitistone Chuckles
In February, 2016 Dusty Eroh, Andrew Burr, Scott Adamson and Todd Tumolo rode, pushed and postholed their fatbikes up the Nizina River to the mythical frozen waterfalls of the Chitistone valley. Equal parts climbing and comedy, the trip was an authentic and memorable Alaskan adventure.
In Episode 04, Dusty tells the story first-hand, reflects on his time with Scott and discusses how he got his nickname, "Dirty D."
Short Ropes_Chitistone Chuckles_Mix 01
0 min
April 06, 2017 Life Revelations: Clint Helander
Clint Helander left home at 18 years old, hoping to escape a tense relationship with his mother, and to start finding his own way through life. When he came to Alaska a year later to attend college, a chance encounter with a new group of friends would expose Clint to the outdoors, and eventually lead him to the mythical Revelation Mountains. Little did he know that along the way, he’d learn more about the importance of relationships with his friends, and ultimately his mother, than he ever could have imagined.
Recorded & Produced by Evan Phillips
Music by Evan Phillips with additional tunes by Ryan Giorgioff
www.thefirnline.com
www.evanphillips.net
1 hr 3 min
April 06, 2017 Life Revelations: Clint Helander
Finding truth in the Revelation Mountains
Clint Helander left home at 18 years old, hoping to escape a tense relationship with his mother, and to start finding his own way thru life. When he came to Alaska a year later to attend college, a chance encounter with a new group of friends would expose Clint to the outdoors, and eventually lead him to the mythical Revelation Mountains. Little did he know that along the way, he’d learn more about the importance of relationships with his friends, and ultimately his mother, than he ever could have imagined.
Life_Revelations_Clint_Helander

0 min
March 17, 2017 Short Ropes: Makalu Mantras
In this follow up to episode 01, Alaksan alpinist Charlie Sassara talks about attempting the west pillar of Makalu in 1984, as well as his transition to Alaska climbing back in the day.
Recorded, Edited & Produced by Evan Phillips
All Music by Evan Phillips
27 min
March 15, 2017 Short Ropes: Makalu Mantras
In the first installment of "Short Ropes", we re-visit my discussion with Alaskan alpinist Charlie Sassara (See episode 01). This is a candid 20 minute raw clip of our chat where Charlie reflects on a 1984 attempt on the west pillar of Makalu, as well as his transition to Alaskan alpine climbing.
Short Ropes_Makalu Mantras_Mix 01
0 min