The Firn Line

Many years ago, I saw Jack Tackle give a slideshow in Anchorage. I was in my early to mid-twenties at the time, and mountain climbing was the only thing that mattered. That evening, I listened intently as Jack described icefaces, corniced ridges, and run-out pitches that had long captured my imagination.

But it’s funny how life works. Shortly after the slideshow, I sustained an injury climbing, that effectively ended my career, and irrevocably changed my life forever. Although I went on to make a new path in art and music, I can say without a doubt, that my life was never the same without climbing.

There was also the accident on Mt. Augusta in the Wrangell-Saint Elias, where jack was struck by a falling rock. The impact broke his neck, leaving him paralyzed on the face, and stranded fifty miles from the nearest road. The ensuing high-stakes rescue would become the stuff of legends in the mountaineering world, but for Jack, it was an opportunity to move forward in life, with a new perspective.

Fifteen years later, and despite some limitations from his injuries, Jack is still climbing at a high level around the world. Over the years, I’ve watched his career from afar, and often wondered how his brush with Guillain-Barre and the accident on Augusta affected him.

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On episode 18, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with venerable North American alpinist, Jack Tackle. With his unmistakable baritone and classic unassuming style, Jack is the epitome of a true Alaskan “hardman”. His gutsy first ascents up climbs like the Isis Face on Denali, the Diamond Arete on Mount Hunter, and the Elevator Shaft on Mount Johnson, have cemented his place in the storied history of Alaskan alpinism.

It’s no accident that Brad Meiklejohn makes his home in a beautiful alpine valley outside of Anchorage, Alaska.  An avid pack rafter, climber and skier, Brad has spent much of his life exploring Alaska and other remote corners of the world.  But beyond his accomplishments in the outdoors, the mountains have always been a sacred place of reflection and self discovery, attributes that can certainly be traced to his deep family roots.

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In June 2017, Aaron Kurland and Sam Novey planned to attempt the formidable and rarely-climbed Father and Sons wall, but when they found the face to be out of condition, they quickly turned their attention elsewhere.

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When I was a kid growing up in Alaska, Vern Tejas was one of my heroes. Back in February of 1988, Tejas made the bold first solo winter ascent of Denali, and in doing so, captured the imagination of all Alaskans, including me.

A few weeks ago I got to sit down with outdoor educator and host of the excellent 'The Sharp End' podcast, Ashley Saupe. We talked about her upbringing in Alaska, her experiences teaching as an Outward Bound instructor as well as discussing what it takes to produce a monthly podcast about accidents in North American climbing.

On today’s episode, we’ll get to know Alaskan alpinist Sam Johnson. Growing up in the foothills of the Chugach Mountains, Sam was exposed to the outdoors and mountain environments at a young age. But it wasn’t until his teenage years that he discovered a newfound focus and direction thru climbing.

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On this episode of Short Ropes, we revisit my conversation with legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin (See episode 11).