The Firn Line

Training for the mountains has come a long way - even from when I started out in the early 90’s. Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was the best training for climbing. While this is still true in a lot of ways - thinking has progressed - and a lot of that has to do with the emergence of UphillAthlete.com

Founded by Scott Johnston and Steve House, Uphill Athlete has become a name synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running, mountaineering - to skimo racing.

In 2014 - the duo published Training For The New Alpinism - a manual to help alpinists translate training theory into practice to achieve any mountaineering goal. Building on the success of that book, the team expanded their horizons, and earlier this year, along with world-renowned mountain athlete Kilian Jornet, they published  Training For the Uphill Athlete: A manual for mountain runners and ski mountaineers.

I recently got a chance to speak with both Scott Johnston and Steve House, to talk about their respective careers in the mountains, how the two forged an enduring friendship and partnership through training, and what it means to share their knowledge with the mountain community.

My first conversation was with Scott, and like a lot of my interviews, we started out by discussing Scott’s inspirations as a kid, and how that led to a life immersed in the mountains, fitness and training.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Links:
Uphill Athlete
The Firn Line (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

Have you ever been on a path, where it seemed like everything was lining up the way it should be - things were going smooth, your life felt perfect - and then one day, seemingly out of the blue, something happened, and everything changed? What once felt comfortable, suddenly felt unstable. What once felt like solid ground, now felt like falling through space.

As climbers and outdoorsy folks in general, we pride ourselves on being strong - both physically and mentally. We’re high achievers that see in mountain faces and blank walls, problems that need to be solved.

But at the end of the day, we’re all human beings. Not every problem can be solved - and sometimes, what’s most important is being able to look in the mirror and say, today is the day to make some changes.

In some ways, this is what my recent conversation with climber, skier and musician Kjersti Gedde was about. We talked about her recent decision to walk away from a stable career in the outdoor industry, how music and songwriting helped her navigate through overwhelming grief, and what it means to give yourself permission to simply be who you are.  

Music by Evan Phillips & Kjersti Gedde

Support the show on Patreon and The Firn Line (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know Alaskan-based wilderness adventurer, woodworker, potter and teacher, Tony Perelli.

Tony grew up in the farm country of Wisconsin, playing sports as a kid, but also developing a passion for the outdoors, fishing and canoeing with his family and grandparents. After college, Tony found himself in Alaska, working as a teacher for the Anchorage School District, and also meeting a group of friends that would introduce him to mountaineering and packrafting. These formative experiences would shape his life, and instill a deeper sense of love and respect, for the wilderness.

Since that time, Tony has continued refining his life, stripping away the excesses, and focusing instead on living simply, working with his hands, and sharing unique life experiences and connections with others.

Last winter, I got to sit down with Tony, to talk about his life in the mountains and wilderness, as well as the creative endeavors he chooses to pursue, and share with others. Like many conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Tony’s inspirations as a kid - and later, how a random encounter after college, would lead him to Alaska.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Links:
Tony Perelli
The Firn Line (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know alpinist and author, Simon McCartney. Back in the late 70’s - the norms of mountaineering were transforming - moving away from the heavy siege style tactics of the past, to the light and fast “alpine style” path of the future. Although forward-thinking alpinists had been employing these tactics in the mountains for years, only a small group of climbers we’re climbing alpine style in Alaska - and two of these climbers were Jack Roberts and Simon McCartney.

Beginning in 1978, this confident and brash duo made the first (and only) ascent of the exceedingly dangerous north face of Mount Huntington. Then, in 1980 - the team upped the ante when they climbed the enormous 8,000 foot southwest face of Denali. Although the pair readily handled the technical difficulties on the face, it was the insidious onset of cerebral edema that nearly killed Simon high on the peak. Although Simon made it off the mountain after a harrowing descent of the Cassin Ridge - the experience affected him deeply, and he never climbed again.

But the friendship Simon formed with his partner Jack Roberts never left him - and after 35 years, in a full-circle chain of events - Simon would write a book about the two life-changing climbs he’d shared with Jack. The book, titled  The Bond, was published in 2017, and was an instant mountaineering classic, winning the esteemed Boardman-Tasker award.

A few months ago, I was fortunate to have a long conversation with Simon. We talked at length about the climbs up Huntington and Denali, the importance of his relationship with Jack, and what it meant for him to write The Bond.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Links:
The Bond
Huntington north face (AAJ 1979)
Denali SW Face (AAJ 1981)
The Firn LIne (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know author, biologist and wilderness adventurer, Caroline Van Hemert.

Caroline has an impressive life resume: She’s a mother of two boys, holds a Ph.D in wildlife biology (as well as an m.a. In creative writing), AND she just published her first book titled, The Sun Is A Compass. The book, which recently released to critical acclaim, chronicles her and her husband's 4,000 mile, human-powered expedition from the pacific northwest rainforest, all the way to the Arctic Coast of Alaska.

I recently got a chance to talk with Caroline about this journey; about the literal, ups and downs over mountain passes and glaciers, the life-lessons she learned along the way, as well as her process of writing about it.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show on Patreon

Links:
Caroline Van Hemert
The Sun Is A Compass (book)
The Firn Line (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

In April, 2019, alpinists Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell flew into the Ruth Gorge, intent on repeating "Blood From The Stone", arguably one of the most difficult routes in the Alaska Range. But when the duo found poor conditions on the face, they re-directed their efforts, eventually succeeding on a new route between "Blood From The Stone" and "The Wine Bottle".

The pair were harassed by a group of ravenous ravens, and endured a pummeling at their second bivy. But the suffering was balanced out by incredible climbing, which followed a series of vertical, razor cut, ice-tubes splitting the granite walls. On the third day, the team topped out on Mount Dickey, establishing ‘Ruth Gorge Grinder’, an instant Alaska Range classic.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show on Patreon

Links:
Alan Rousseau
Jackson Marvell
Ruth Gorge Grinder (AAJ 2019)
The Firn Line (website)

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

With love to the families, friends and community surrounding Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer

http://www.jessroskelley.com/

AK Mountain Women is an all-female group that loves human powered expeditions in Alaska. The goal of the group is to cultivate a strong community of local women dedicated to challenging and educating themselves and others about glacial mountaineering and big remote mountains.

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know professional rock climber, Kevin Jorgeson. Over a long and ever-evolving career, Jorgeson has immersed himself in the multi-dimensional craft of rock climbing. As a youth, he honed his mental and physical skills, while progressing to the top tiers of competition climbing. Later, he tested himself on classic and technical and highball bouldering problems, from Fontainebleau to The Buttermilks. And more recently, he teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to complete a visionary free climb of The Dawn Wall - which was documented in a powerful and award-winning film.

In the final episode of 2018, I go back to a September conversation with climber, educator and activist, Len Necefer. Len holds a Ph.D in Engineering and Public Policy, and is founder of Natives Outdoors, an outdoor products company whose products serve to support indigenous people.