Brownstone Journal

We're Losing the Human Touch in Food


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By Joel Salatin at Brownstone dot org.
Food, which generally originates with a farmer, gardener, or orchardist, is fast losing its hands-on persona and increasingly gaining a mechanical, chemical platform.
Over the last decade, the United States has lost about 28,000 farms annually. While some of the loss is due to urbanization, most of the land remains farmland, either managed by other farmers or simply abandoned. While there are 1.3 million farmers over age 65, only 300,000 are 35 or younger. In 2022, the average American farmer was 58—years older than the average age in other vibrant economic sectors.
The American business landscape is largely anti-people. The current rush to artificial intelligence reflects how eagerly most businesses seek to eliminate people. The farming sector illustrates this trend better than most.
Between 1960 and 2019, the percentage of disposable personal income spent on food dropped from 17 percent to 9.5 percent. Meanwhile, health care spending rose from about 9 percent in 1980, to 18 percent today. Could the two possibly be related? One more data point: In the last 80 years, the farmgate share of the retail food dollar fell from around 40 percent to just 15.9 percent in 2023.
Farming is out of sight and out of mind for most people. Food appears on grocery store shelves. It's treated as a pit stop between life's more important activities. Fortunately, the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) movement is beginning to shine a spotlight on food, including revised and more truthful dietary guidelines.
For decades, American agriculture policy and practice have replaced farm labor with machines, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals. This raises the question: Is food a living thing, or simply an inanimate pile of protoplasmic matter to be manipulated like wheel bearings or bottle caps?
As technological sophistication pulls our culture away from its biologically vibrant roots, it jeopardizes our functional microbiomes. Yes, that's a packed sentence. You might need to reread it—slowly. The point is, our internal systems are more aligned with the ancient world than with Star Trek. Do we really want machines, chemicals, and drugs to be the medium in which our food is grown?
Wes Jackson, co-founder of The Land Institute in Salina, Kansas, has long advocated for a healthy "eyes-to-acres" ratio. He suggests that when fewer people interact with the land and the growing of food, both land stewardship and food integrity suffer.
Per-person agricultural output—the number of people one farmer feeds—has increased dramatically over the past century. Cyrus McCormick's invention of the reaper in the 1830s launched the agricultural industrial revolution, enabling farmers to produce far more than ever before. Replacing the scythe with the reaper was revolutionary.
While technology brought many agricultural efficiencies, without ecological ethics, it may have gone too far. The introduction of subtherapeutic antibiotics in chicken waterers enabled the rise of concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs). With feed augers, water pumps, and massive barns, individual farmer output soared. And along came super bugs, C. diff, MRSA, avian influenza, polluted water, and fecal-stench air in surrounding neighborhoods.
At our farm, we've chosen to replace energy, capital, equipment, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals with people. Our equity lies in skill, knowledge, and community, all embodied in people. Instead of 100,000 laying hens packed into three-tier cages and rarely seen by humans, we pasture our chickens and gather eggs by hand. That means a lot of human–chicken interaction.
We don't use chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, vaccines, or medications. Instead, we move cows daily from paddock to paddock. We rotate pigs through silvopastures every few days. It's an intimate, hands-on method that avoids toxins and diseases by investing in people who, in turn, nurture production.
This intentional substitution of people for machine...
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