Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys

1) I had a question for you about staining frame and panel doors. A few months back I made a few cabinets that I wanted to match reasonably well with existing kitchen cabinets (made from birch). Everything was going well but when I came to staining the wood I ran into issues. I had tested a few stains on a piece of the birch I was using for the face-frames/rails-stiles and found Varithane premium fast dry interior wood stain (color: kona) had a close enough color to the existing cabinets that the difference should't be noticed as the cabinets were going in different rooms. After the wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, and wipe off process I discovered that the panels of the doors were significantly darker than the rails and stiles. I tried a second application of stain to just the frame to try to darken them to even out the coloring but that didn't do much. The wood for the rails and styles was solid birch that I ran through a thickness plainer, assembled, ran through a drum sander, and then sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. The panels were 6mm baltic birch that I sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. I should also mention that I got the wood from a local reputable hardwood dealer, not from a home center. I also used an air compressor to blow of any trapped dust from the doors before staining.

What did I do wrong? I would've been happy if the whole door was either the lighter color, or the darker color, but with the light frame and the dark panel, it just doesn't look right. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the surface structure of the top veneer on the birch plywood was more porous and thus able to absorb more stain. But what do pros do in order to get the same color on solid wood and also veneered wood?

 

Thanks again for the great podcast.

Cheers,

Gavin

2) I’ve been woodworking for about 2 years now and in that time I’ve been primarily using white oak (with occasional use of Ash, Hard Maple & Walnut), but I’m at a loss when it comes to adding finish; I’m simply unsure where to start, so I don’t use any. So could you help me, please? I do understand that after listening to your podcast from the beginning, that this subject is a bit of a mine field and you’ve covered it numerous times for other listeners, but for someone starting out who would like to use low VOC finishes (to protect my asthmatic Wife), what would you recommend starting with, please?

 

Thanks in advance and keep up the great work.

 

Sean

1) I’m building  a planer sled for my Dewalt 735 to do face jointing.  Do I attach the  ‘stop’/‘fence’ part to the leading or trailing edge? I’ve seen it done both ways on YouTube.  What in the world is the correct way? Thanks in advance and I’m a big fan of the podcast and all of your work!

Thanks again, Jason Ruffino SkinnyDogShop

2) Recently built a router table/cabinet because my wife doesn’t know enough about woodworking to stop me from adding to my shop, for now at least. The carcass came together nicely, all 3/4” birch ply with pocket screws (shop furniture so it’s not blasphemy). It was all square and seemed right until the drawers came into play. In total there are 5 drawers - 2 over/under on the bottom left, 1 bigger bottom right, and one on each side of where the router/lift goes. The drawers themselves seem to measure square, unless my public school math is failing me! However some of the drawers seem to be harder to pull in and out. I’m using the full extension drawer slides from Home Depot. Also, when the drawer fronts are attached, they seem to be a little wonky when spaced correctly and some won’t close flush. -Joey

 

Huy

1) Hi woodshop guys. I have a question about case construction. Ive started building my shop with mobile carts, one for my saw/mitre saw/ router etc. I recently started using pocket holes screws since they are bang around shop carts and i wanted to make them as quickly as possible. My questio

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1)When is the right time to pull the trigger?  I'm currently using an old Grizzly 6" jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock.  What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it's time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel   

 

2) Right now I've really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦‍♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren't the best, but I'm sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby!

 

Thanks

Brandon

Sean

1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ

 

2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman

 

Huy

1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4" 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark

 

2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Sean

1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick

2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right.  I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed.

 How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and  leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander.

Thanks

Jesse

 

Guy

1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and ... it didn’t go well. So my questions:

 

Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence?  The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart.

Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want)  next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut?

Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? :)

 

Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. - Adam

2) Guy, as I've improved as a woodworker, I'm getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don't want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I'm going to list a project here (not one I'm currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?:

-  Project: Round breakfast table

-  Wood: solid cherry

-  Size: 42" diameter, 1" thickness

-  Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg9tf4_jyRr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

-  Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino

-  I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft.

Josh

Huy

1) Hey guys...I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I'm having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555  13" planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness?

https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html

 

Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and 

wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) I've recently upgraded/downgraded from a Delta 3 phase 5hp unisaw right tilt (mucho power, not much safety) to a Sawstop 3hp left tilt (less power- more safety ). Is there any difference in approaching cuts for the left vs. right tilt? My crosscut sled has to be remade, I have to rework the mitre bar on my Delta (Buick sized) tenoning jig, etc. In the past, I've used the mitre bar on the left side for crosscutting -so the blade tilts away from the support fence. Do I start using it on the right side of the blade so it tilts away from the support fence? Eric

2) Since I'm planning to soon purchase some of these tools I would like your thoughts/recommendations for purchasing all Incra, all Woodpecker or a mix of both.  I would also like to know which five or six measuring devices you would recommend if it were for your own shop as I'm not exactly sure what I need.  I realize this may not be a fair ask given that Incra and/or Woodpecker are sponsors for some or all of you. Jack

 

Sean

1) I am gluing up 3 boards, each board being 1” thick x 8’long x 6” wide. I do not have a flat surface that big to do a glue up on. Do you have any recommendations on how to ensure a flat glue up? Nick

2) What’s the most useless thing you’ve bought for your shop? I’m not even going to try to explain this one. You know you bought something that you haven’t touched since you bought it. Guy.... you’re old... you know you have things you’ve bought for that one job and didn’t even use it then. What is it?  Brent Jarvis

 

Huy

1) For everyone: It seems that all three of you work in your garage. What are your best storage saving tips? Josh

2) Hi guys. I really appreciate everything you guys have put out. I’m a beginner to wood working. Been doing this about 4 years. I have a to. Of questions that I’d love to get your perspective on. I have a shop space that is 24 x 30. When I first started woods working I was out of a garage 1/4 of the size on was very intrigued by the Shopsmith. What are your thoughts on a 5 or 7 in one machine? I really enjoy the option for a lathe. And a quick flip to a drill press. - Kyle

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) Hey guys. Question on horsepower for table saws. I’m slowly moving toward upgrading my table saw (I won’t mention the brand so Guy won’t have a reason to make fun of me but let’s just say I’m looking forward to not dying). I currently have a 1.5 hp older delta contractor saw. My question to you is what hp are your saws and if there is a major difference between 1.5 and 3 hp? I don’t work with a ton of 8/4 or bigger stock so I wouldn’t be putting thick stuff through. Thanks for any insight! Ben

2) First off just wanted to say I love the show! You are all talented and experienced woodworkers but all offer different viewpoints on how you like to get things done.

My question is about table saw upgrades. I’ve had  a Ridgid R4512 table saw for about 2 years now. I enjoy it but I’m wondering about upgrades. I’m specifically thinking about dust collection and the fence. I know I want to get a zero clearance fence but also wondering about over arm dust collection? Would it be worth it for this saw? Any aftermarket over arm set ups you guys would recommend or have experience with? The other upgrade I’ve considered is a fence. I’ve found that at times I feel the fence on this saw might be a little inaccurate and it doesn’t have a lot of adjustments. Do you feel any of the aftermarket fence systems would be good for this saw? Any recommendations?  Or would you recommend possibly saving money to just get a better saw in the future if you felt like the upgrades weren’t worth making to this saw.

Thanks for the time. Again, love the show.

Brian Bingham

Sean

1) I've seen a few people online build jointer sleds to edge joint and flatten boards. Can I actually get decent results out of a jointer sled in most cases? I assume using a jointer sled for processing a large amount of lumber would be a hassle compared to using a floor standing jointer, but what are the other limitations to using a jointer sled that I am not considering?  Brock

2) 

Still loving the show. I wrote in once before and you sold me on shellac finish for small boxes, and you made me a believer.

I do have a new question,

I'm building a dresser for my daughter and I'm not sure how to finish the job. The main carcass and drawers are mostly plywood with oak edge banding. I made the base out of oak and the drawer fronts will also be oak which I plan to stain to let the grain show through.

Do you guys normally finish the inside of the drawers in a dresser? If so, what do you use?

Also, I was going to paint the carcass(it's plywood, don't freak out), so I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to get that perfect painted finish on the carcass? I don't have a sprayer, and the budget is tight, so I won't be buying a fuji anytime soon, but any other tips are much appreciated!

Thanks, Scott

 

Huy

1) Love the podcast.  Thanks for everything that you put into it.  I recently resawed some 5/4 walnut, about 32" long, for some drawer faces (shop furniture).  My plan was to resaw this and then glue up a panel to have continuous grain down the three drawers.  The walnut had been in my shop for a few months and I got it from a reliable source, so I was pretty comfortable with the moisture, although I don't have a moisture meter.  I had milled a face and an edge square, but as I was resawing it, the two pieces bowed significantly, to the point that they would require another round of milling, and getting 3/8" to 1/2" final thickness was not possible.  Did I do something wrong, or is that to be expected when resawing something to that thickness? Chad

2) I am using a 3/8" diameter upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" diameter shank from Whiteside to make 1 1/8" deep mortises in some cherry. Whiteside says the bit is good for 1 1/4" deep. I am using the bit in the Porter Cable 690LR fixed base router. My questions: How deep a cut is recommended per pass? Is there any criteria out there for depth of cut?

Dave

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) Hey guys,  I have been wanting to switch over to water based spray finishes for awhile, since for the foreseeable future my shop will remain connected to the house. I either use a conversion varnish or danish oil then wax. Doing oil and wax is a great look but too time consuming for any real deadline. That leads to conversion varnish but that requires a nice day outside or for the wife and kids to leave the house for a little while (museum, zoo, park, etc) Neither is practical and plus I want to go to the zoo too.

 

The argument against water based varnishes is the clear/milky look instead of a rich deep glow. But couldn't you just spray an amber shellac coat first, sealing and giving the beautiful color that solvents give? Then finish with a quality water based coat, thinking Target Coatings EMTECH line.

Side note, I have used rubio and while I don't mind it on occasion (I know guy is not a fan), I hate having to mix and the lack of options for sheen.

Thanks team! - Patrick

2) I have heard you all talk about how much you love and use for MFT tables and top and I love mine for those sweet, square, 27" crosscuts. What I haven't figured out yet is how to utilize it for much of anything else.  I think one of you mentioned it as an assembly table, but it would be awesome to hear more ideas on how you utilize it your shops.

Thanks! Jeremy

 

Sean

1) Help me settle a bet with my wife.

She thinks I'm quote unquote "injury prone" in the woodshop. I always have Band-Aids on my hands and arms. She jokes that I am 30% bandaid at all times.  I wouldn't consider myself injury prone, other than that one chisel incident last summer (chisel into index knuckle, 10 stitches, yada yada yada).

My question is, on a normal day, how many minor injuries do you receive? Cuts, scrapes, splinters, scratches, anything that requires a bandaid. What do you consider the normal course of a day on this kind of thing? I need to explain to her that this kind of thing is just the cost of doing business.

Thanks again! - Eric

2) Hey Guys, Isaac from Teton Woodshop.

I have a question about drum sanders. I recently bought a drum sander because I don't like sanding (shocker) and I thought it would cut down on sanding time for panels. However I found it left deep scratches in the wood that took quite awhile to sand out with the random orbital sander. I am finding much easier to just make sure my boards are flat, line up the glue joints with dominos and sand with a random orbital sander without using the drum sander. This process seems much faster for me.

Am I missing something in my use of the drum sander? I hear it is a luxury to have in the shop but I find it being more of a nuisance than a luxury at this point. I'd love to hear about how you guys use it to see why you consider it a luxury and I consider it a large space taker in the shop.

 

Huy

1) Hey Gents, wanted to say you have an awesome show going. Wanted to know if you've ever held off on making something because you don't have a specific tool or upgraded tool? For instance I currently have a Dewalt jobsite table saw so not the most reliable or accurate saw and am saving up for a cabinet saw and think I'll be more comfortable making things then. Thanks again. - Paul

2) I bought a cordless Dewalt track saw. I picked it because of the two way track and you don’t have to spin the tracks around as much when breaking down plywood. It was my first track saw. Now, I’m realizing that I can’t use the after market accessories available to Festool tracksaw owners like the parallel guides and the 90 degree guide.  Do you think these accessories are worth selling my Dewalt and getting the Festool?  I would like to move to final cuts with the track saw as mentioned by Guy in the last episode. - Brian

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy's questions

1) Easy question for you today! What’s the number one math you hate to do in the shop? For me it’s calculating measurements on the router. For instance let’s say I’m making a template to use a guide bushing on. For some reason getting that perfect measurement from center to the edge makes me cringe. Another in this aspect is measuring from the base of the router to the center of the bit, or even the blade of the bit for a groove or dado. Just always seems to make me want to call it quits and grab a beer.

Guy, you’re almost as cool as your Lamello. Huy, your work is almost as intense as your social media posts. Sean, your just about as fancy as your finished pieces! As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops!

Thanks,

Brent Jarvis

Clean Cut Woodworking

2) Sawstop has a sliding table option. As you can tell, I love sliding tables! However, is it worth the big $$$ for this option if I could just get the Incra sliding miter 5000? It takes less room, but what do I lose by going this way? -Tony 

Sean's questions

1) I’m starting to make more and more cabinet type projects. Do you have any cabinet building books you recommend? I want to make sure I am doing things correctly. -Hunter

2) Gents, thank you for the awesome format of this podcast. Love it. I started thinking to get a scroll saw and then realized a CNC can do what I'm looking for as well provided I'm willing to chop the rounded corners left by the cnc bit square. It seems the CNC is more versatile so if I'm going to invest in a new skill, it might be the way to go. In your opinions, if price is not a factor can a CNC fill the void a scroll saw fills or do I need to learn to use both? Thanks!-Matt

 

Huy's questions

1) My question is regarding miter stations: Do I really need one? The last couple of years I’ve been using a cordless jigsaw to break down rough stock and precision crosscuts I’ve used my incra 5000. When building tabletops, I square up with my tracksaw so no need there...Do you guys find them integral to your processes?  

I should add I intend to begin focusing on building rocking chairs. Not having built a rocker before, I’d like to know if the miter saw becomes more or less important in that specific application?

Thanks,

Ray

2) Howdy Guys - Love the podcast, best on the web!I've taken on a garage cabinetry project for a friend. They're wanting the melamine floor to ceiling type and would like your opinions on melamine table saw blades.I see there are two types, the "Triple Chip" and the "Steep Bevel" teeth. Is one better than the other? And is one more useful for other tasks also, like veneered panels/ply. Will probably go with either Infinity or Forest unless you have other suggestions.I'll be using two-sided melamine, don't have a tracksaw, so will be breaking then down with a circular saw and then to final dimensions on cabinet saw (Powermatic 66).Thanks for all the insights you all share and for keeping it entertaining!-Eric

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy:

1) Always enjoy listening to your podcast while working in my shop. I recently saw Huy using a router set to cut cope and stick joints for some cabinet doors.  I have a similar set by Freud that I have used to cut many similar joints over the past several years.  My set has not been cutting very well the last few times I used it so I took it to have it professionally sharpened. It's no better now than before, maybe worse. Should I try having them sharpened again, or is this just the nature of the beast?

Keep up the good work on the podcast. -John

2) Sharpening vs replacing.  I’m still running straight knives on my planer and jointer and always wondered what makes more sense between the two.  The local Rockler and Woodcraft stores offer send away sharpening for these and all other blades and bits.  It’s about $20-25 for a set of blades to get sharpened, but they’re about the same to just replace them.  I could be just getting the “cheaper” blades as they’re not carbide tipped or anything special.

 What are your thoughts?  I know table saw/miter saw blades are different and seem to last longer.  What were your methods before going to helical everything? Joey

 

 

Sean:

1) New to woodworking, love the podcast, learned a ton from you guys so far! My question is about determining moisture in wood when purchasing. I’ve heard you guys talk a lot about needing to sticker wood and let dry before beginning a project, but how does a person know when choosing pieces from their local dealer, what the moisture level is? Does everyone just take a moisture meter with them when selecting boards? Or is there some other way to know which pieces will allow me to start on a project sooner than later? If I want to build a table for example, I don’t want to have to wait two years for my lumber to dry before starting the project. Again, I’m new to woodworking, so apologies if this seems elementary. -Tony

2) Just watched an episode of Woodsmith Shop on my local PBS channel.  They were making a white oak gentleman's dresser, and used a "gel varnish" for the finish. I have never heard of this before, and I was wondering if any of you guys have used it before? They did not identify the make or model of the product, but Old Masters is one of their sponsors, so I suspect it may have come from them.

 

Huy:

1) Enjoy your program very much. How did three intelligent talented young men (yes Guy your are younger then I) living so far apart geographly ever become close friends? My question is I would like to add a good jointer to my modest woodworking shop (https://www.instagram.com/papajimshobbywoodworking/) but due to space constraints a floor model would not fit at this time and a 6 inch model may not always be wide enough. Have been looking online at the Model 40180HC-CT (with carbide tips) jointer from www.cutechtool.com Any thoughts on this or suggestions on a different jointer. I am retired from a carrier in massage therapy now living on Uncle Sams monthly donations and enjoying my hobby. Thank you and have the best day ever. James

2) First, I own a large 27”x43” Incra router table. It takes up a lot of space. Is it worth getting rid of the table and getting the built in router table option on a Sawstop? I realize I probably will lose the Incra fence, but I could get back significant room. 

Tony from Atlanta

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1) I have a couple of Bessey F-Style clamps and some wooden ones made by Klemsia here in Germany (https://www.klemmsia.de). What to get next? Are parallel clamps like Bessey's REVO really worth the extra price? Lots of people in the US seem to use pipe clamps - what's so good about them? Are there any specialty clamps that should go into my basic kit like wooden handscrews or one handed clamps? Jarmo

2) I have seen lots of articles on making and using shooting boards but I don’t understand very well the theory behind shooting miters. How does the process work? I mean, if I make a mitered frame, and the miters aren’t perfect, what is the order or operations or the process for shooting the perfectly while maintaining the perfect length of opposing sides? As I think about it, it seems like trueing a miter also shortens the piece with will introduce a new problem and I’ll end up chasing perfection forever. Can you help me understand this?

Thank you so much! I love your show and I seriously appreciate all the effort that goes into it. All of you make my hobby even more enjoyable! - Mart

 

Sean

1) Hello guys, I am in the process of building my first real workbench and was wondering how you like the benches you have. I've seen your benches on YouTube-my questions are, how did you decide on your design/type of bench and vise styles? Is there any things you would do next time? The stuff I'm interested in is usually furniture, using mostly power tools but want to use hand tools more often. Any other discussion on the topic would be appreciated. Thanks and keep up the good work on the podcast- don't ever change your format- it's what makes this podcast stick out from the crowd! - Travis

2) I have a couple of questions about my DeWalt DW735 planer. Lately I’ve been having trouble with the planer not pulling the wood through. I’ve tried waxing the wings and bed and cleaning the rollers with mineral spirits. These help for a bit, but eventually it stops pulling the wood through again. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Brian

 

Huy

1) Question: I’m a diy’re and have accumulated my tools over the years. I have a Ridgid Planer and a Ridgid 6” jointer and a Delta Bandsaw 14”. They all run fine. My question is - would it be worth the money To upgrade the Ridgid machines with the helix cutters and the Bandsaw with a Carter bandsaw guides. If I did them all it would be around $1000.00. - Dave

2) How do you know when a piece of sandpaper is worn out or no longer the grit it says it is? I use high quality klingspor sanding discs that last a long time but not sure how to tell when they are no longer effective. Is there a board footage or rule of thumb you guys can talk about? - Stockbilt

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guys Questions:

1) Really enjoying your podcasts. I am new to podcasts, and it’s a new avenue of learning for me. I have shied away from instructions, not on purpose, just too busy doing it, I guess.

I have had the same sears 12” RAS since 1970, 4th motor. I make boxes and toys in my small under the garage shop, where the RAS is my main tool. On one side of my shop I have the RAS on the rear of a 3.5’ x 7.5’ table. In the middle of my shop , I have a rolling table of the same height. I can process 4x8 sheets with this set up. Pictures at https://www.treetobox.com/TreeToBox-Shop-pictures All of my projects are small to large. Business card boxes to rifle cases.

 

I am interested in your views of RAS vs table saws.

 

Thanks,

Glenn Nief

2)  I just built a table for myself, 8x4 red oak.  I used titebond 3 and once again, I have glue creep.  In one spot, it actually pushed the polyurethane finish up and caused the finish to chip.  So incredibly annoying! Background on the milling, I have a helical head grizzly jointer that I joined the all boards with.  The seams were essentially perfect with zero gap whatsoever. I'm starting to think that it's the titebond 3, but I'm looking for your advice.  Thank you. Logan.

 

Sean's Questions:

1) Hey guys! This is Josh Uy from the Philippines. Love the show and podcast, I appreciate the way you three tackle questions from different perspectives. 

My question is on wood movement: if you finish wood with a film finish, say polyurethane, does that mean that there is less of a chance that moisture from the environment could enter the piece and cause the wood to expand? Here in the Philippines we don't have a big swing in temperature/humidity throughout the year so we don't need to worry as much but I'm just curious. Thanks again! Joshua

2) Hey guys, question about stickering. How important is stickering through the later stages of a build process? I know it’s important as you’re killing material but should I be doing it while cutting joinery? I see some folks sticker even the smallest pieces of a build which doesn’t seem to make much sense. I guess I’m asking if and when you can just stack boards without concern with uneven evaporation. Thanks! Ben

 

Huy's Questions:

1) In episode 24, you talked about not using the dominoes fence for alignment but instead using your flat work surface. This makes sense to me, except for when you’re joining two pieces that aren’t the same thickness. How would you address that? Chad

2) Hi Sean, Huy, and Guy. As always, I love the show. Answering a bunch of questions while keeping it light and fun makes for a perfect woodworking Podcast. Though I disagree with the other listener who described Guy as “beautiful”. He’s more ruggedly handsome like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson or Christian Becksvoort. Question: what sort of warranty do you offer a client when you build a custom piece? What do you think are reasonable customer issues and where would you draw the line? Should custom furniture always be final sale? This can be a delicate subject so I’d love to hear your different takes on it. Thanks! Kevin at Quill Woodworks.