The Pittsburgh Dish

060 Pizza Masters - Patrick Elston and Pete Tolman


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What makes a truly extraordinary pizza? It's a question that Pittsburgh pizza masters Patrick Elston of Gus Franco's and Pete Tolman of Ironborn Pizza have spent years perfecting—crafting distinct styles that have earned them regional championships and devoted followings.

(00:52) Patrick's journey began with a mobile wood-fired pizza trailer in 2018, eventually establishing Gus Franco's brick-and-mortar location in Lower Burrell. His "American baker style" pizza represents a careful evolution from Neapolitan traditions, with meticulous attention to dough fermentation and bread-making techniques. The result? A perfectly crispy yet light crust that recently earned him recognition as the Northeast Region champion for traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo.

(22:59) Meanwhile, Pete Tolman transformed a chance encounter with Detroit-style pizza during a Colorado ski trip into Ironborn Pizza, now thriving with locations in Millvale and the Strip District since 2017. His distinctive inch-plus-high crust with a lacy cheddar cheese edge has gathered its own accolades, including multiple Northeast regional championships. Beyond pizza, Ironborn's Strip District location showcases handmade pasta, fresh meatballs, and a full bar experience.

What truly sets these pizza makers apart is their dedication to craft. Patrick describes the intense relationship with his wood-fired oven—moving pizzas through five different "spots" during busy service, constantly managing heat, and treating each pie as an artistic creation. Pete reveals the science behind his dough, which rises higher than traditional Detroit-style, creating Ironborn's signature airy texture. Both prioritize quality ingredients, including non-bromated flours and proper fermentation, challenging the notion that pizza is merely "junk food."

(32:27) Their friendship exemplifies Pittsburgh's collaborative food scene—they attend pizza competitions together, celebrate each other's successes, and even share monthly dinners with their families. Their approach to business growth remains deliberately measured, with Patrick slowly introducing Sicilian pizzas and Pete focusing on strengthening operations at his existing locations.

Whether you're craving Patrick's "Hot Dad" pizza with sopressata and hot honey or Pete's white pie with garlic cream and roasted tomatoes, these pizza masters prove that Pittsburgh's pizza scene has evolved into something truly special. Visit them soon to taste what championship-level dedication to pizza craft really means.

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The Pittsburgh DishBy Doug Heilman

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