Advance Copy

ArtEZ University teachers, Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, discuss their recent open source paper: A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De-Hierarchised System For Fashion Education. The document looks to the collaborative world of fungi and mycelium networks to find inspiration for de-hierarchised models of fashion education. We’ll learn how lichen networks influenced their approach to the management of the Critical Fashion Practices Master’s course and discuss how fashion designers, entrepreneurs and practitioners can encourage more collaborative ways of working.

1. A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De Hierarchized System For Fashion Education by Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, Published by MA Critical Fashion Practices, ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem, 2022.
2. Calling out Dutch Art Institutions
3. Fantastic Fungi - documentary by Louie Schwartzberg and Mark Monroe available on Netflix
4. The Mushroom at the End of the World: On the Possibility of Life in Capitalist Ruins by Anna Tsing

Guests

Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Baserange founders Marie-Louise Mogensen and Blandine Legait set out to provide women with underwear which didn’t dictate or restrict their bodies. Since 2012, this intention has set Baserange on an unprecedented trajectory, constantly pushing the fashion industry’s preconceptions to build one of the most authentic and courageous ready-to-wear brands.

In this two-part conversation Marie explains how Baserange aims to work in a way that resembles a healthy organism. As such it felt natural to also include the thoughts of one of the brand’s long-term collaborators, Tugba Mert Taskan, the Garment Facility Executive of the pioneering Turkish factory Mert Ipek. By intertwining these two conversations in one we hope to represent a more realistic picture of the many talented and caring individuals contributing to the development of Baserange.

Guests
Marie-Louise Mogensen, Baserange
Tugba Mert Taskan, Mert Ipek
Giovanna Flores

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


St Rose founder, Belinda Smith, saw a space in the fragrance market for a conscious, luxurious and long-wearing fragrance brand rooted in the art of nature, and set out to steer the industry towards a transparent and gentler future. We speak to Belinda about the realities of crafting your own brand and why giving back and looking at things holistically is key to the sustainability conversation.

Guest: Belinda Smith, St Rose

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya, co-founders of Delhi-based NorBlack NorWhite, discuss how India's rich textile heritage instantly caught their attention, why the trade show format didn’t work for their brand, and how they grew NorBlack NorWhite to being a cultural platform and creative studio. 

This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.

Guest: Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar, NorBlack NorWhite

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Strategic brand management consultant Thalia Tserevegou established TT CoLLECTIVE to share her holistic vision with a multitude of value-aligned fashion brands. She takes us through her learnings on how to build modern, conscious fashion companies in an ever-more turbulent market and shares with us the moment she decided to step back and pursue more balance and purpose. 
 

This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.

Guest: Thalia Tserevegou, TT CoLLECTIVE

References: Advance Copy Episode 6, How to Withdraw from Discounting Fashion

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Babaà is a family-owned knitwear brand. From organic cotton farmers in the south of Spain, the shepherds and yarn spinners in the north, and the multi-generational factory in Barcelona to the brand’s hub in Madrid; babaà’s founder Marta Bahillo is a champion of the Spanish knitwear industry. We speak with Marta about her unique value system, decision to focus on direct-to-consumer and supporting ecological innovation. 

This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.

Guest: Marta Bahillo, babaà

References: Violet Sessions podcast episode 23 with Marta Bahillo and Claire Ptak

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Desert Vintage stands out with its graceful nomadic style and a contemporary point of view. Co-owners Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan discuss their introduction to the world of vintage and the twist of fate that led them to inherit a much-cherished local business. Speaking from the store’s hometown Tucson, Arizona and New York, they reflect on the multitude of skills it takes to reinvent a business and the significance of supportive retail communities.

Guest: Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan, Desert Vintage

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


With precisely engineered handbags made using state-of-the-art Italian craftsmanship, Advene has grown steadily since launch thanks to close relationships with its customers and mentors. We speak to the brand's founders, Yijia Wang and Zi Xuan. 

This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.

Guest: Advene, Yijia Wang and Zi Xuan

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


Artisanal soap brand ORRIS is rooted in holistic plant-based practices and artistic collaborations. Questioning their careers in fashion the founders, Lani Le Berre and Kenneth Koo, acted on an instinct and created a series of cold-pressed soaps that truly serve our skin. We look at how independent brands can pave the way for sustainable business models, tackle issues of waste and resist the pressure to perpetually bring out new products.

Guest: Lani Le Berre and Kenneth Koo, ORRIS
Book: Dissolving the Ego of Fashion

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre


South Africa native Lukhanyo Mdingi started his namesake fashion label in 2015, growing a creative universe dedicated to human relationships ever since. We discuss the importance of love and patience in establishing a purposeful fashion brand.

Guest: Lukhanyo Mdingi 
 

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Post-production & editing: Mark Smith

Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre