All Things Iceland

A quick but fascinating Icelandic folklore tale about Naustahvilft. According to the legend, a troll was hurrying home to avoid being turned into stone by the sun that was going to rise soon. She was traveling quickly enough that she was ahead of schedule and was able to stop to rest.

The area that she stopped is Ísafjörður, the fjord where the largest town in the Westfjords is located. The troll’s feet were aching so she sat down on the mountain to rest. The shear weight of her made an indent in the mountain with her rear as soon as she sat down.

Please note that trolls are gigantic figures in Icelandic folklore, so it is possible for them to have this impact on a mountain. When the troll got up to continue her journey, the imprint of her rear was left. That indent was then nicknamed “Troll’s Seat”.

There is a short but steep trail here that I loved hiking. I think it took me around 30 minutes to reach the top but I was huffing and puffing at the end because the steepness does get intense. However, the views on a nice day are incredible. For a little bit of effort, you are rewarded with views of the fjord. If you spend some time up there, you might even see some planes taking off or landing.

Like other hikes in Iceland, there is normally a guest book you can sign at the top that is being kept safe from the harsh weather in a metal box.  There is a space for cars to park for this trail but it can be hard to miss so drive a little slower when you getting close to the location, so you easily make the turn into the small lot.

Ísafjörður – ice fjord

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is the first response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.

There are several stories relating to Iceland that involve ravens. The first that pops into my mind has to do with Óðinn, the Norse God, that had two Ravens. They were named Huginn (thought) and Muninn (memory or mind). They flew around the world (Midgard) and brough back information to Óðinn. Because Norse people settled in Iceland, the belief and worship of Óðinn came with them.

Another story that comes to mind is of Hrafna-Flóki. He was a Norse Viking that is said to have given Iceland its name. He didn’t stay in Iceland because he encountered a very harsh winter where he almost didn’t survive. However, before he left he went on top of a mountain in the fjord and saw that the fjord was packed with ice. Due to that, he called this place the land of ice or “Iceland”.

The easiest way to get from Go Car Rental Iceland‘s Skógarhlíð location in Reykjavík to Skarfabakki is to take a taxi. It is about 9 minutes by car, so it will not be very expensive. The name of a taxi company to use is Hreyfill.

This is such a tough question. I know that only one place was requested but I will provide two. One is more remote and that is Eldgjá in the Icelandic highlands. The other is the Westman Islands, which is much easier to access. To learn about all of the places I enjoy around the country, including hidden gems, check out My Iceland Map.

You can definitely be a passenger princess and still see Iceland. I suggest taking tours that are for small groups. It is more intimate than the big buses and you see as much of the country as you want. On this website you can find many day tour and multi-day tour options.

The answer to this can be long because it involves so many layers. In short, the Icelanders I have spoken to have often been confused about what is happening politically in the US. Not that they don’t understand how the system operates but wondering why it is allowed to be the way it is. An example is that politics in the US is dominated by two parties. There is also a lot of extremism and it seems that politicians often want to pass laws or vote for laws that undermine the safety and rights of their constituents.

I totally understand that it can be hard to listen to the podcast and not understand how to spell the words I am saying in Icelandic. One of the reasons I write a lot of notes here on my website is so that you can reference it to see what the words look like that I talk about in the episode.

This list of where to find animals in Iceland is specifically for during the summer months (May – September in most cases).

It is getting tougher to have hidden gems on the south coast but here are three:

Thankfully, it is not difficult. All the food markets have food like this, such as Krónan, Bónus, Hagkaup, and Nettó. Most restaurants have at least one option, if not multiple options on their menus.

The National Day of Iceland which is on June 17th is very important celebration for the people of Akureyri and everyone around the country. The town is decorated with flags and a full celebratory program. Here is a link to the 2023 program to give you an idea of what to expect.

There will be a parade, concerts, games, performances, and lots of food. I hope you and your family have a lovely time.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

For this episode of Folklore Friday we’re diving into the chilling tales and explosive history of Iceland’s very own Mount Hekla, often dubbed as the “Gateway to Hell”!

Our story begins in the year 1104, when Hekla made its grand entrance into the annals of volcanic history with a bang!

Since the 1970s, this fiery beauty has been quite punctual, gracing us with a spectacle roughly every decade. However, she’s been holding back since her last performance in February 2000, leaving us all on the edge of our seats, waiting for her next big show.

But why the ominous nickname, you ask? Well, Hekla’s notoriety isn’t just smoke and mirrors. Picture this: the year 1300, a massive eruption tears through the mountain, the colossal roar echoing to the far reaches of the north. The skies darken with ash, casting a shadow so dense, the brave souls who once sailed for their daily catch dare not venture into the blackened seas.

The aftermath? A trail of destruction, earthquakes that shook the land, farms crumbling to dust, and a devastating famine claiming around 500 lives. This wasn’t a one-off event; Hekla’s wrath has been felt through the ages, leaving behind tales of despair and devastation.

During the dark and mystic times of the Middle Ages, the European clergy painted Hekla as the very doorstep to the netherworld. Perhaps their imagination wasn’t too far off, even if it was a tad dramatic! Rumors swirled of Satan’s abode lying within its fiery depths, witches convening in its shadow to pay homage to their infernal master, and the damned being whisked away by avian carriers to the volcano’s gaping maws.

Such were the tales that shrouded Hekla in an impenetrable veil of superstition and dread. For centuries, its slopes remained untouched by human footsteps, its peak a forbidden realm, believed to house the entrance to hell itself. The whispers of the clergy echoed across Europe, casting Icelandic volcanoes, Hekla in particular, as undeniable proof of the devil’s dwelling beneath our very feet.

It wasn’t until the bold year of 1750 that curiosity (or perhaps foolhardiness) led the first climbers to defy the myths and scale Hekla’s heights. Contrary to the fearsome legends, they found no gateway to the underworld but instead unveiled the rugged beauty of this majestic volcano.

Today, Hekla stands not as a feared specter but as a beacon for hikers, its slopes a testament to the courage that overcomes fear. Please note that it is still an active volcano and an eruption can still happen. If you plan to visit please check to see if there is any increased activity in the area, like earthquakes.

The tale of Hekla, a volcano shrouded in myth yet bursting with natural wonder. Whether you’re drawn by its dark folklore or the call of adventure, Hekla remains a captivating chapter in Iceland’s rich tapestry of legends and landscapes. Who knows, maybe your next trek will be along the legendary slopes of the so-called “Gateway to Hell” – just don’t expect to bump into any witches or find a stairway to the underworld!

Eggert Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson are the names of the two people that summited the mountain in 1750. After dispelling the taboo that climbing Hekla meant going to hell, meeting the devil or some witches, the mountain has become a popular place for hikers and climbers.

The name Hekla can mean a comb for linen or a cloak, such as a cloak of mist. It’s believed that Hekla mountain might have looked like a comb for linen back in the day but after many eruptions, its shape has changed. The latter meaning of a cloak of mist is fitting because there is often mist hovering around the volcano’s summit.

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As of January 15th, 2024, Keflavík International Airport (KEF) has stated that they are gearing up to host a whopping 8.5 million passengers this year, making it one of their busiest years ever. Yep, you heard it right, this little volcanic island is becoming more of a hotspot than ever before!

I know 8.5 million sounds like a lot, because it is, but I will put that into context during this episode because there much more to the story.

So, what’s the scoop? Well, compared to last year, we’re looking at a 9.6% jump in visitors. This is both during the bustling summer months and the magical, aurora-filled winters, which usually have less people.

This year, a record-breaking 2.38 million international visitors are expected to actually visit Iceland, edging past the previous record set back in 2018. The growth isn’t just in the summer; winter tourism is getting a big boost too, with a 13.4% increase in visitors braving the cold for some icy adventures.

But it’s not just about sightseeing. With more people passing through, about 30% are just here for a quick layover. Still, every visit counts, and it’s a great chance for folks to get a taste of Iceland, even if it’s just a glimpse from the airport.

When the airport reports numbers like 8.5 million passengers, they are counting departures, arrivals, and transfers. For 2024, the number of departures is estimated to be about 2.98 mil, arrivals are about 2.99 mil, and transfers are about 2.5 mil. After rounding up, you have 8.5 million passengers.

Guðmundur Daði Rúnarsson, the guy steering the ship at KEF, is all in on this uptick, especially the winter warriors coming to enjoy Iceland in its frosty glory. It’s great for business and even better for showing off our year-round appeal.

And to make sure everyone’s visit is smooth and enjoyable, KEF’s been on a bit of a building spree. Last year saw new spaces for check-ins and luggage, plus a shiny new taxiway to keep things moving smoothly. And there’s more on the horizon, with a new wing set to open later this year, packing in more gates and even more spots for shopping and dining.

Now, you might wonder how KEF figures all this out. It’s all about keeping a keen eye on travel trends, checking out airline schedules, and crunching numbers to predict how many folks will be coming through.

And with all these visitors, there’s going to be a buzz around the new ETIAS system kicking off in May 2025. The ETIAS is The European Travel Information and Authorisation System.

It’s a new travel requirement for a lot of international visitors, so with Iceland’s popularity soaring, the ETIAS applications are expected to go through the roof, especially with those extra winter visitors.

The increase in visitors, especially during the summer, means that booking your accommodations, and vehicle rental as soon as possible will ensure that you have the places you want to stay and car you want to drive handled. The demand for those are very high. I highly recommend booking at least 5 months before you arrive in summer but 6-8 is better.

I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I personally use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

This surge in tourism isn’t just great for postcard sales; it’s making Iceland an even more appealing spot for folks thinking about a longer stay. With its stunning scenery and top-notch quality of life, who wouldn’t want to stick around? Plus, with new policies making it easier for students and remote workers to set up shop here, Iceland’s not just a vacation spot – it’s becoming a place to call home.

As KEF gears up for this tourist boom, it’s clear that Iceland’s allure is only getting stronger. With the airport expanding and improving, it’s ready to welcome people from around the world – and maybe convince a few to stay a little longer. Here’s to a bustling, vibrant Iceland, ready to enchant even more visitors in 2024!

December 2024 is the month with the largest % increase that is forecasted for tourists at 21.4% and October has the least amount of % increase forecasted, which is -.9%.

Spá – forecast

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

At the famous, beautiful, and dangerous Reynisfjara black sand beach there are three sea stacks clearly visible out in the ocean. They look as though they have popped up out of nowhere but there is a story behind their existence.

Legend has it that two trolls were trying to pull a ship to shore during the middle of the night. However, they lost track of time and since this was during the warmer seasons when we have shorter nights, the sun came up sooner than they thought.

Any troll caught in the sunlight turns to stone and that is exactly what happened to them. It’s said that the three rock pillars are the two trolls and the ship they were dragging. Not sure why the ship would also turn to stone but that is the story.

The beach’s signature black sand is a result of lava flow reaching the sea and cooling quickly. The molten hot lava being rapidly cooled by the cold sea makes the solid lava crack into little pieces. Those pieces are then eroded over time and become a rough sand.

Reynisfjara – Beach of Reynir. One story I have read says that  Reynir was a Viking from Norway that was one of the first to settle in this area. Another says that it was named by Björn from Valdresi in Norway. Either way, the beach is named after a Reynir.

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Check out more Icelandic folklore stories here.

Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Visiting Iceland in October offers a unique and captivating experience, characterized by its transitional weather, diminished crowds, and the chance to witness the Northern Lights.

My Ultimate Packing Checklist is linked in the show notes and will provide you with everything you need to bring. I recommend following the winter list, especially toward the end of the month because it is noticeably colder and darker.

Due to decent day light hours, good road conditions, and relatively warm weather, October can be a nice shoulder season month for people to visit who want to avoid the crowds. Driving to different parts of the country is still quite easy, meaning hardly any snow or ice, especially during the beginning and middle of the month. So, I recommend renting a car or a camper van.

October is one of those months when how you plan your Iceland trip really matters. You still have a decent amount of daylight, especially earlier in the month, but the days get noticeably shorter as October goes on. Add Iceland’s unpredictable weather into the mix, and you don’t want to create an itinerary that has you rushing from place to place or spending most of your trip in the car.

That’s exactly why I created my Iceland Itinerary Blueprint.

In this step-by-step video workshop, I show you the process I use to strategically build an Iceland itinerary — including how to choose where to go, plan your overnight stays, avoid unnecessary backtracking, and figure out how much you can realistically fit into each day.

I even build a sample 5-day Iceland itinerary with you so you can see the process in action.

I made the Blueprint affordable and instantly accessible, so you can start planning your trip as soon as you’re ready.

👉🏾 Get the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint and start building your trip

I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I personally use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Planning an Iceland trip can feel overwhelming, especially when you’re trying to figure out how many places you can realistically visit, where to stay overnight, and how to avoid spending way too much of your vacation driving.

Here are a few resources I’ve created to make planning your Iceland adventure easier:

If you’re still figuring out how to put your Iceland itinerary together, this is where I recommend starting.

My Iceland Itinerary Blueprint is an instantly accessible video workshop that walks you through my step-by-step process for planning an Iceland trip. I cover how to choose your destinations, strategically plan your overnight stays, avoid unnecessary backtracking, and decide how much you can realistically fit into each day.

You’ll also watch me build a 5-day Iceland itinerary from scratch, and you’ll get downloadable worksheets to help you plan your own trip.

I intentionally made the Blueprint affordable and easy to access so you can start planning whenever you’re ready.

👉🏾 Get the Iceland Itinerary Blueprint

My Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland is my comprehensive online course for travelers who want to feel prepared and confident before visiting Iceland. It goes beyond itinerary planning and covers the practical things you need to know before and during your trip.

👉🏾 Explore the Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland

My Iceland Map includes more than 350 places around the country that I personally recommend, from popular attractions to restaurants, accommodations, hot springs, and lesser-known stops.

It’s a great companion once you’re deciding exactly what you want to add to your itinerary.

👉🏾 Get My Iceland Map

If you’ve already done your research but want my personal input on your trip, I also offer Iceland travel consultations and itinerary reviews.

These are best for travelers who want individualized advice based on their specific itinerary, interests, travel dates, and questions.

👉🏾 Explore My Iceland Trip Planning Services

October is when the season for the northern lights really kicks off.

Óktober – October

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

This particular episode is about Hallgerður Hallgrímsdóttir, who did an interesting interview with VICE back in 2016 about her intimate encounters.  An important warning though is that she goes into some graphic details about her and an elf being intimate, as well as an anonymous account that she shares from someone else. It’s definitely out there.

I am summarizing what she said in the most PG way that I can. Hallgerður claims that she was out walking in the Icelandic wilderness by herself when an elf approached her. For those not familiar with Icelandic elves, they are hidden people that look like humans but are said to be taller and way better looking. After meeting the elf, they go off and have an intimate time and yes, I am using intimate as a euphemism. She recalls it as being amazing and way better than anything she has ever done with a regular person.

To make this even more interesting, she illustrated a book using stick figure drawings to show some of the intimate positions that are uniquely elvish. Hearing people’s encounters with elves regardless of them being intimate or not, are fascinating to me.  I say that because there are people in Iceland who are self-proclaimed elf mediums and there is even a elf school here. Icelandic elves

Due to a poll taken in 1998, the thought for decades was that that the majority of Icelanders believed in elves. However, another poll was done in 2022 by Prósent that says only 31% of Icelanders believe in elves, 11% were not sure, 1% didn´t want to answer and 57% said no. To be fair, this was based on around 1,000 responders who are 18 years or older.

Huldufólk – hidden people

Check out other episodes of Folklore Friday here.

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In the early hours of February 8th, a volcanic eruption north of Grindavik, not far from the famed Blue Lagoon, marked the third eruption since December, igniting concerns among locals and authorities.

With the eruption’s intensity waning by the evening, experts from the Icelandic Met Office suggest this latest upheaval might be fizzling out. Yet, the pattern of increasing volcanic activity has them predicting possible monthly eruptions in the near future.

In the wake of the eruption, the Civil Defense has issued urgent safety guidelines for residents using gas heating due to the lose of hot water because lava has flowed over a major hot water pipe coming from the Svartstengi power plant.

They are emphasizing the importance of proper ventilation, the installation of gas detectors, and adherence to manufacturer instructions to prevent hazardous incidents. These precautions come amid a spike in gas cylinder sales in Reykjanesbær, driven by disruptions to the local hot water supply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLd7CzXBScA&list=RDCMUCacXXvaNHJQhMYU7f77OrBA&start_radio=1

The lava flow’s impact extended to critical infrastructure, with the Svartsengi power line’s electricity being swiftly restored thanks to effective defense measures, despite the damage to protective measures on pylons. However, the hot water crisis prompted the National Police Commissioner to declare an emergency, urging the community to conserve electricity and water as repairs to the damaged hot water pipeline are underway.

Despite the volcanic disturbance, international flights remain unaffected, though the Blue Lagoon has temporarily closed its doors to visitors. As the community grapples with the immediate aftermath and the potential for future eruptions, the emphasis on preparedness and safety has never been more paramount.

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One of Iceland’s most iconic and breathtaking landmarks is Hallgrímskirkja church. This isn’t just any church; it’s a symbol of Icelandic identity, a fusion of history, and a beautiful architectural design that speaks volumes about the island’s unique character. Later on, in my random fact of the episode, I share who this church is named after.

Before I jump in, I am excited to share that I have created a form where my listeners and followers can submit questions for the “Ask Jewells About Iceland” podcast episodes I plan to do. Here is he link to submit your question.

Perched on the scenic hilltop of Skólavörðuholt, Hallgrímskirkja stands tall at 74.5 meters (244 ft), making it not only the largest church in Iceland but also one of the tallest structures in the country. Its visibility throughout Reykjavík turns it into a landmark for those meandering through the city’s streets.

Althingi, or the Icelandic Parliament, put forth a design competition for a church in 1929. The only specifications were that it had to seat 1,200 people and have a high tower that can possibly be used for radio signal transmissions.

The church’s design, a masterpiece by State Architect Guðjón Samúelsson, was commissioned in 1937. Samúelsson drew inspiration from the stunning Icelandic landscape. The church’s exterior mimics the fascinating basalt columns found in places around the country, like on Reynisfjara black sand beach or Svartifoss waterfall. Overall, the design is meant to depict the mountains and glaciers of Iceland soaring up through imitations of hexagonal basalt columns.

The building of the church started in 1945 and the first stage of it was complete in 1948. However, only the ground floor of the back of the church was consecrated for service. The whole church was consecrated in on October 26th, 1986. This happen to be the day before death of Hallgrímur Petursson’s death and the same year Reykjavik was celebrating 200 years of being a town and city.

If you’re a fan of expressionist architecture, you’ll spot similarities in the interior of Hallgrímskirkja church with Grundtvig’s Church in Copenhagen and the Kirche am Hohenzollernplatz in Berlin.

Along with designing this iconic church, Samúelsson is also responsible for designing the National Theater, the Roman Catholic Church in Reykjavik, and the main building of the University of Iceland.

Step inside, and you’re greeted by a serene yet powerful atmosphere. The interior, spanning 1,676 square meters, is a blend of traditional and modern design elements, evoking a sense of grandeur and reverence.

Music enthusiasts, rejoice! Hallgrímskirkja houses not one, but two large pipe organs. The crown jewel is the Johannes Klais of Bonn organ, featuring electronic action, 102 ranks, 72 stops, and a staggering 5275 pipes.

Standing 15 meters tall and weighing 25 metric tons, it’s an instrument that not only plays music but also tells a story of artistic brilliance. The organ was financed through private gifts. I think there are some pipes that people can “purchase” and once it is bought, you receive a certificate that you are a patron of a particular pipe.

For the best views of Reykjavík and the surrounding mountains, take the lift to the church’s observation tower. It’s not just a church; it’s a viewpoint that offers breathtaking panoramas of the city and beyond. Entrance into the church is free of charge but if you want to access the tower, you have to pay 1400 ISK for adults and 200 ISK for children. There are discounts for seniors and groups of 10 or more.

Outside of the church, the statue of Leif Erikson, a gift from the United States, stands proudly. This sculpture not only honors the legendary Icelandic explorer but also commemorates a millennium of parliamentary history in Iceland.

Hallgrímskirkja is more than just a church; it’s a testament to Iceland’s rich history, unique geography, and artistic innovation. Whether you’re captivated by its architectural splendor, moved by its spiritual significance, or simply in awe of its commanding presence, this Reykjavík landmark is a must-visit.

It’s a piece of living history that connects the past with the present, a place where art, culture, and nature converge in a truly Icelandic fashion.

If you would like to experience a mass at the church, you are more than welcome to do that as well but you are asked to please be respectful because this is a religious ceremony. There are often concerts at the church and during certain hours or occasions the church or the tower are not available for use. I have those times in the description of this episode on my website allthingsiceland.com.

The acoustics in the church are amazing, and you can find tickets to concerts on tix.is.

The church is named after Hallgrímur Pétursson, one of the best-known poets in Iceland. He lived from 1614-1674. According to the website about the church, this is the following is known information about Hallhgrímur.

“When still a child, his father moved to the Bishop’s residence at Hólar in Hjaltadalur in the north of Iceland and Hallgrímur there received education. He was apprenticed as a blacksmith in Copenhagen, but abandoned the trade and studied in the Vor Frue Skole from 1632 to 1637. While there he met Guðríður Símonardóttir, who had been in slavery in Algeria.

Hallgrímur and Guðríður returned to Iceland where Hallgrímur became a priest at Hvalsnes in the Reykjanes peninsula and later at Saurbær in Hvalfjörður. He died in 1674. Hallgrimur is most famous for his Hymns of the Passion, a series of 50 meditations on the martyrdom of Christ, written in 1656-59.

The poems are generally considered to be classic in Icelandic literature. Verses of the poems have accompanied Icelanders for more than three centuries. They are read on national radio during Lent and in many churches on Good Friday. Hymns of the Passion have been translated into nine languages, including Danish, Norwegian, German, Dutch, Hungarian. A new translation into English by Gracia Grindal was published in 2019.” 

Hallgrímskirkja church is only one of the many amazing places in Reykjavík you can check out during your visit. If you want more places, like hidden gems and other fun activities to take part in, you can grab my Iceland map.

Whether you just grab the map or full access, which comes with pre-made itineraries, you will have loads of recommendations for things to do in Reykjavík and around the country. You can find the link to my map in the “Trip Planning Help” tab at the top of the page.

Skólavörðustígur, the street leading up to the church, is “school cairn street”. A cairn is a mound of stones built as a memorial or landmark. In this case it was a landmark for locals.

In 1793, one was placed where the church currently stands to serve as a marker for locals who want to see he sights and get a nice panoramic view of the surrounding area. Cairns were commonly used in Iceland out in the countryside to help people traveling to stay on course.

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The tale about Shaggy Trout is one I learned from reading the lovely book “Meeting with Monsters: An Illustrated Guide to the Beasts of Iceland” by Jón Baldur Hlíðberg and Sigurður Ægisson. I’m summarizing bits of the story in this episode but it is really interesting to read about this fish and other creatures in the book

In the shadowed streams and hidden depths of Iceland’s wild landscapes, there whispers a tale as mysterious as the land itself—the saga of the Shaggy Trout. This elusive creature, veiled in myth and mystery, navigates the icy currents with a coat more akin to fur than scales, a peculiarity that sets it apart from regular trout.

Tracing its origins to the mists of time, the earliest chronicled mention of this enigmatic fish dates back to the 17th century, when it was branded a “poisonous menace.” Legends tell of its lethal nature, claiming that to consume its flesh is to court death itself, even after its unique shaggy exterior has been stripped away.

The dark lore of the Shaggy Trout is stained with tragedy, as noted in 1692 when the inhabitants of Gröf farm met their untimely demise, a cooked piece of this fish lying ominously beside them.

Further intrigue surrounds the creature with descriptions from 1737 hinting at two distinct variations—one adorned with a shaggy fringe upon its head, the other bearing a hairy mane along its flanks, suggesting a diversity that could mirror the sexual dimorphism seen in other species, or perhaps indicate geographical variances akin to those observed in arctic char.

Sveinn Palsson, a revered 18th-century physician, recounted his encounters with this and other fantastical fish during his explorations of Arnarvatnsheiði moor, a place teeming with pristine wonders. His narrative intertwines with the grim fate of two brothers, found deceased with the remnants of this perilous fish before them, a cautionary tale highlighting the invisible danger its hair poses once removed from the water.

The lore of this fish is not confined to the annals of history but is woven into the very fabric of Icelandic culture, with tales of calamity and narrow escapes from its lethal allure. One such story is tethered to Kaldrani, where a prophetic dream foretold a tragedy linked to the consumption of this fish, a tale that resonates with the dark undercurrents of folklore where reality and myth blur.

The Shaggy Trout’s domain spans the breadth of Iceland’s waters, like the serene surfaces of Kleifarvatn lake to the remote Skorradalur lake in the north, its presence a whispered legend among the myriad lakes and rivers. This creature, with its peculiar aversion from birds of prey and its absence of a soft dorsal fin, embodies the resilience and mysteries of the natural world. The last written account of the shaggy trout was in the middle of the 20th century. Even though it has not been seen or written about in some time does not mean it has stopped existing.

In the heart of Iceland’s wilds, the Shaggy Trout swims in the shadowed depths, a legend waiting to resurface in the tales of those who tread the fine line between the known and the unfathomable. While it is totally safe to fish in Iceland’s lakes, please be mindful that if you come across a hairy fish that it could be this killer trout. It’s best to discard of it and fish in another area.

According to Jóm Ólafsson’s written account of the fish, the hair can only be seen when the fish is dead and always in the water. When it is above water, the hair sticks to the scales and is almost impossible to see. When in the water it looks like cotton or down, and it covers the body except for the tail. The fish is inedible to all animals.

Loðsilungur – shaggy trout

Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

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